hey guys, i am new here and very new to jeeps. i just got my first 89 2 weeks ago. im pretty excited and want to make it look decent for a daily driver. here are my ideas and please help me out with some constructive criticism because i dont know anything about jeeps:
heres what i have first:
89 wrangler
6cyl 5spd 140k rebuilt @ 100k
hard top, soft and bikini
runs and drives
needed a new CB exhaust. bought a turboII cat back for now
i want to keep it simple. something to accommodate 33" tires. i purchased a set of f&r 1.5" shackles for it already, and now looking for the lift. i was wondering how the rough country is? i was told i need the 4" lift, which i found on ebay for around 400 or so shipped. wondering if its a good lift. i dont really plan on doing anything with it except drive it daily during the winter, so i dont need anything extreme, and im a medic student, so cash is something i have to consider also.
now i dont know anything about jeeps (once again) and i would like to know if i have to upgrade gears, axles etc anything for the lift and tires?? im not worried to much about the wrenching, ive been building some cars for a bunch of years now. just wondering about the details i need
any help guys would be awesome! and im sure ill come across more as i come!
i may have a 3 in add a leaf for sale well i will but i have to wait a week or so.
theres nothing wrong with it i just broke on of the original leaf springs.
a lot of people are going to tell you that you cant run 33's on your dana35 which may or may not be true i wont comment on that. A lot of people have been saying the rough country lift is bad because it sags after a little while. the superlift kit i havent heard to much about but on qtec they have 3.5 kit for sale in either heavy duty or light for either the 6 cyl or 4 cyl for 477 all you'd have to do is but the shocks. i have the 3.5 inch springs in the front and you could definitly fit 33' i currently run 32's
15x8 wheels are fine, actually, some guys prefer them for wheelin' during air-downs because there is less of a chance that the bead will unseat. I like the look you get from the 15x10's better though. Mine are 3.75" backspaced. I went this route 1. because I like the wider track, (like they say - as you go up...go wide)...and 2. I didn't want to have to deal with my tire rubbing on my springs in sharp turns.
I put the Rough Country 4" on my 93 YJ a couple of weeks ago. There is a write up on the midsouthjeeps.com forum under the product reviews about my install experience. If check the pics, I have 31x10.50's on stock rims and there is sooo much room for 33's even with the stock rims (although like spearhunter 1 said, go wide!)
I'm a satisfied Rough Country customer, especially for the price!
The hardest part of mine was the transfer case drop. The holes weren't drilled in the right spot. I puzzled over this for an hour before I got mad and drilled new ones. By the way...they don't mention it in the instructions, if you get the bar type spacer, they are supposed to go on a certain way. From the front bolt to the center is 9" IIRC, and from the center to the back bolt is like 8". So if it doesn't look like it will go on first attempt, flip it around and/or try it on the other side. I did realize this during my hour of puzzlement...ha ha
One thing I wanted to add, (it won't let me edit my last post for some reason), is that a good source for info on lift kits is 4 wheel drive shops. Or more specifically, installers. They can tell you what lifts are the easiest or most difficult to install. Percentage of each brand that has come back for warranty or replacement. Customer feedback on each brand. Etc, etc...
I'm not claiming that Rough Country is the best brand. I've heard negative remarks on their kits. But their kit fit my needs and budget and I have had zero problems with it. I have never owned or installed an Ol Man Emu lift. I have heard good things about it. But I can not give you facts. Sometimes opinions can be helpful...most times they are biased...but they are what they are...opinions. Good luck.
how long have you had each lifts for??? i paid cheap money and took me awhile to find a deal and dont want to spend more on wheels and a lift than i did on the jeep itself
Pro Comp Rock Crawler steel wheels, (http://www.4wheelparts.com/PLT100021T11T209.aspx), are about the most inexpensive, quality wheel you will find new. They run about 50 bucks a piece for 15x8's and about 70 or so for 15x10's...
Other options for wheels might be used on Craig's list, (http://craigslist.org/), or maybe Ebay, just make sure they are 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern.
And, yes, 4" backspaced wheels will work. I'm only assuming you are wanting to run 33x12.50's. A little more negatively offset wheel will prevent you from having to play with your steering stops to keep them from rubbing on your springs. There's no law that says you have to buy offset wheels.
yea the plan is to run a 33x12.5x15. i found some Crager Soft 8 for 36.99 for 15x8 5 x 4.5 with a 4" backspacing. so i wanted to know if that would work. i dont really understand what backspacing would be best and what not
thanks for everything, your helping out with much needed info!!!
A wheels offset is the location of the mounting surface in reference to the centerline of the wheel. If the mounting surface is outside of the centerline, it is called positive offset. If the mounting surface is inside of the centerline, it is called negative offset. And obviously, if the mounting surface is located at the centerline, it is neutrally offset. Backspacing is the distance in inches from the wheels mounting surface to the inside edge of the wheel.
Stock YJ wheels are positively offset at either 5" or 5.5" BS...I don't remember which...anyway, you just wanna get the inside sidewall of the tire a little further away from the front leaf springs. On an 8" wheel width, 4" BS would be neutrally offset. Therefore, an 8" wheel with a 3.75" BS is .25" negatively offset. With my 10" wide wheels, at full lock with 33's, the edge of the tread is a good 2" away from the spring. It stands to reason then, that with 4" BS, the edge of the tread would only be .25" closer and would still be fine.
Another way to keep your rubber off your springs is with spacers. Some people say these are dangerous...some say they wear out your wheel bearings faster...some swear by 'em. Personally, I don't like 'em, but that's just me. Besides it will cost you 200.00 for four spacers...about the same as a set of wheels!
To get a price on that lift from DC, email or call him and ask for a quote including shipping to your zip code. Something you should know about going thru a "middleman" to get your lift is yes, I saved 100.00. But it took three weeks to get it, whereas, if you go right thru RC, it is shipped same day if it is ordered before 2 p.m.
Another thing I feel compelled to tell you is that most people feel that with 4" of lift or more, you should install a slip yoke eliminator, ("SYE"), on your transfer case and use a CV style driveshaft. There is TONS of information on this if you search... I, however, do not have one, (for now - my future plans include lifting it even higher, axles, bigger tires, etc.), and don't have any problems. I have only a very slight vibration at certain speeds and probably will go thru u-joints a little faster. BUT, understand that my Jeep is not a rock crawler or a mud king. Some would call it a "mall crawler" if you will. My suspension will probably rarely, (if ever), see full extension as the most hardcore off roading I do is riding the trails at the management area during hunting season. If you are planning to build a hardcore machine, this issue must be addressed. The slip yoke on your stock DS is designed to slide forward and aft during suspension extension. If you max out your driveline angle, and then wheel it hard, it will apply serious downward forces to your transfer case output shaft and may result in damage to your transfer case and/or your rear differential. At the very least, use your transfer case drop kit that is included.
i bought set of Stoney 1.5" shackles and i need the bushings still....now here is a 2 part question
1. do i really need to go with the greasable hardware...im hoping to get a decent bushing set, and already have the grade 8 bolts with the grade 8 nylon locking nuts to go with them?
2. where/what bushings to you recommend for this?
heres a pic from them; (not my actual ones in my hand)
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