Worked on jeep all summer to fix frame and body rust. Last weekend was paint day. I had talked to several people at the local auto paint store about the procedures. I picked out 2 colors and headed home. I wet sanded and Chen strip the body. Loaded up gun and shot paint. I ended up with several places that didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. Oh well I'll just sand and shoot another coat. Went back to store and discussed what happened. They them told me since I didn't use a hardener and it was over 16 hours all I could do is sand and buff. If I just shoot more paint it will lift. Only fix is to strip or sand back down to primer before reshooting. Blah...if I had known that in the beginning I would gone with the hardener. Guess I didn't ask the right questions. Plus the guy I work with was a counter person not a experienced painter. He knew his paint just didn't have experience shooting it.
Okay so you got this paint from them and they didn't give you everything you needed? That right there is a reason not to go back to them. I used a one step shopline PPG on mine. not as good as the fancy stuff, but for a jeep that will get used offroad, works fine and I can repaint it for cheap if needed. I think it turned out rather well.
CJ.XJ.CJ. TJ. TJ.ZJ. TJ.TJ. ZJ.ZJ.YJ. XJ
Ppg acrylic enamel with no hardener. Skipping hardener was my choice. Not because of cash but rather health. I had been told years ago that breathing even a little of that stuff could fatal. I just tught kit took longer for the paint to cure, nothing about not being able to reshoot. Manager who is also a painter talked to me and explained the whole thing. If they had shared that info before I would have done the hardener.
You have to use a hardener, it's not an optional component. You did primer over your rust repairs right? You can spray over top pre-existing paint if you scuff it up first, but I don't like doing it that way because scratches and stone chips will always show in the fresh paint job.
At this point I would sand all the paint off that you applied. Then based on how the surface looks would determine how I'd go. If you have lots of patches of the different layers of finish everywhere, I would give it a coat of epoxy primer to seal everything up and have a good base surface to start on. If you want a silky smooth finish, I would spray a coat of urethane filler primer, sand it smooth, then move onto the final finish. You could skip the urethane primer if you're not going for a show car finish. If you're just doing a regular solid color I'd use an acrylic urethane single stage top coat. If it's a metallic color, then I'd do base/clear for sure.
Alternatively, if you want to do it on a budget and have something that's cheap/easy to repair when scratched, pick up a gallon of rustoleum in the color of your choice. I've done this before as well, mix the can well, thin some down a bit with mineral spirits and spray it on. You can get a fairly nice finish on the cheap if you do it right.
Wow 444 you hit the nail on the head. Must of what you said I got from the store mgr who is experienced painter. Counter guy knows his materials but not experienced painter. What I wanted is 10-10. Jeep that looked like a 10 from 10 feet away not a show piece. It's a 95 YJ that was probably 1 step away from junkyard. I put about 300 hours into fixing frame and body and some mechanicals. All rust was ground off or cut out. All fixes were primed. Whole jeep was roughed up and wiped down with stripper. I paid $1800 and now have $2500 not counting labor into it. I've leaned a lot. So no cash for labor isn't a concern. The education and pride that i did myself out weights any cash. It was fun work. So what I plan is to fix any really bad areas and leave the rest alone. I showed it to a friend he thinks I can wet sand some areas and buff out the rest. Should look ok in the end. I did an experiment Friday and it worked. I had 2 run on the grill. I saw this trick on tv. Used razor to cut off the drip, then sanded with 1000 grit. Followed by loading my airbrush with paint mix. I shot only the area I sanded. Drip gone and it's smooth. No lifting yet. Once i have them fixed then it will be pin stripping time I will post some pics.
Yes the razor blade trick is a good one if you used a single stage paint and if the run is in an open spot you can get at. If you carefully cut the drip off, all you need to do is wetsand the area. Don't necessarily need to apply more paint. Of course the drip is almost never in a nice accessable area.
Well I took a chance today. I wet sanded the hood. Couple places went down to original paint, but the orange peel was gone. I loaded up my airbrush and reshot those areas. Paint went down good and I didn't see any reaction to second coat. I'll leave the new paint sit up for a couple days before buffing he hood.
Last weekend I was able to smooth out mistakes in the grill and reshot it. Turned out good. Last 3 days I worked on the hood some more. If the weather breaks this weekend I will reshot the whole hood. Of turns out ad good ad grill I'll be happy.right now it's about 45 degrees outside.