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Old 12-22-2009, 07:02 PM   #1
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Question Rear axle question

Someone told me that a Dana 35 (stock for 87 Wrangler) is not strong enough to hold 35's. He told me to get a Dana 44. I'm planning to get 5" lift from 4WD.com. My question is: Can I get a Dana 44 from a CJ5 or 7?. They will fit without many modifications?. Please advise. Thanks

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Old 12-22-2009, 07:18 PM   #2
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its definately good advise that 35's are generally too much for the d35, and no cj axle is gonna bolt right in. and the bolt patterns are different. i'd say your best bet is to find a d44 out of an xj/mj, they are hard to come by but the bolt pattern is the same. no axle is a direct bolt in to a yj since the 35 was all that was made for it, but it is very minimal modification to an xj/mj d44.

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Old 12-22-2009, 07:26 PM   #3
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Make it easy on yourself, buy a ford 8.8 from an explorer. Thats what i'm running.... extremely easy to come by and minimul work to fit to a YJ......Factory disc and LSD is a huge bonus
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:30 PM   #4
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The dana 35 is junk. I am on my third in two years. I just picked up a 8.8 with disc brakes,and 4.10's out of a 99' exploder the day before yesterday.
plan on swapping it in before spring with a selectable locker. I will do a write when I do.
Do some research this is a fairly common swap.
You can pick these up pretty cheap I paid $250.

advantages:
1) same wheel bolt pattern
2)disc brakes
3)easy to find lots of aftermarket support
4)super strong,1.31" diameter axles,8.8" ring gear.

disavantages:
1)axle is 5/8 narrower on each side than the D35 but if you are using a decent offset wheel you will never notice
2)"c" clip axle's,but in order to have these bother you would need to break the 1.31" axles
3)the tubes are pressed into the center section,but it is cast steal so easy enough to weld.

If you have any type off fabrication experience and tool's it is not the big of a project to get one of these under your jeep.
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Old 12-22-2009, 08:31 PM   #5
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Red face Rear axle question

When you said "but it is very minimal modification to a xj/mj d44" you are talking about Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Cpmanche?

I found this in the NET:

XJ and MJ Dana 44
The XJ and MJ are/were available with a Dana 44 with the heavy duty towing option or metric ton option. I'm not sure if the XJ always came with a Dana 44 when the towing option was ordered. The axles will interchange between the models and use a 5 on 4.5" wheel bolt pattern. This axle could also be a good low buck swap for a Wrangler YJ, but the sping perches would need to be moved. The shafts are one piece and 30 spline.


Thank for your comments
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:13 AM   #6
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thats about right, it is hard to find a d44 in an xj, and they were only available from 87-89 or 90.

its about the same amount of work for either d44 or 8.8, the ebrake cable is probably not a direct bolt in for the 8.8, but i'm not sure.
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdocdave View Post

its about the same amount of work for either d44 or 8.8, the ebrake cable is probably not a direct bolt in for the 8.8, but i'm not sure.
solid advice right there..... Your correct as well, the stock jeep e-brake cables aren't a direct fit but i have seen some pretty crafty methods for making the cables work... I was lucky enough to score the whole explorer so i was able to take every single bracket, all the for cables, etc... making the ford e-brake cables fit the jeep was extremely simple.....
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:07 AM   #8
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Uplifted:
What did you use for an flange adapter on the rear driveshaft?
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:13 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by scrambler1 View Post
Uplifted:
What did you use for an flange adapter on the rear driveshaft?
Nope, no flange adapter here...a little research and i found a conversion u-joint in stock at my local supplier ... 1310 on one side and 1330 on the other. adapter the jeep driveshaft to the ford flange..12 dollar u joint beats a 50 dollar adapter flange anyday... and yes, i have been beating on it with the v8 and the u-joint has taken the abuse just fine..
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:22 PM   #10
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Good luck finding an XJ/MJ Dana 44. Around here, if you can find one, they go for about 800 bones. Not only that, but I've heard they are only a Dana 44 center, with small Dana 35 size tubes pressed in...
I just picked up a '96 Exploder 8.8 w/discs for $100, and the yard pulled and loaded it in my Jeep for me!
It is open, and 3.55, but I'm installing 4.88's and a locker anyway. Besides, the LSD is pretty worthless off road, more money, and relatively weak.
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler1 View Post
Uplifted:
What did you use for an flange adapter on the rear driveshaft?
I pulled this off of a 1991 Ford Aerostar van with an 8.8 in it. It takes a 1310.
I pulled the ujoints out at the yard so I didn't have to pay for a driveshaft.
It cost me $6. Similar adapters go for $30 new.


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Old 12-23-2009, 08:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czjeeper View Post
Good luck finding an XJ/MJ Dana 44. Around here, if you can find one, they go for about 800 bones. Not only that, but I've heard they are only a Dana 44 center, with small Dana 35 size tubes pressed in...
I just picked up a '96 Exploder 8.8 w/discs for $100, and the yard pulled and loaded it in my Jeep for me!
It is open, and 3.55, but I'm installing 4.88's and a locker anyway. Besides, the LSD is pretty worthless off road, more money, and relatively weak.
jeeze, where do you live, i'm gonna bring my d44's there. going rate around here for xj/mj d44 is around 300
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:07 PM   #13
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jeeze, where do you live, i'm gonna bring my d44's there. going rate around here for xj/mj d44 is around 300
Pac NW, Portland Oregon area.
People are straight up stupid when it comes to Jeep stuff here.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:15 PM   #14
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XJ/MJ dana 44's are extremely hard to find around here (VT),about $600 if you can find one.
Thanks for the tip on the aerostar adapter. Should be easy enough to find.
What do you plan on running for a locker?
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Old 12-24-2009, 09:52 AM   #15
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Question Rear axle question

I'm new with Jeeps and will like to know something, How do you identify a Dana 35 from a Dana 44 axle?. Could you use a Dana 44 in the front and rear at the same time or the back have to be stronger than the front (lest say Dana 44/front-Dana 60/back)?
Thanks for your comments
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Old 12-24-2009, 10:02 AM   #16
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You can use whatever axle combination you want it just depends on how much work you want to do.


One upside to the D35 you have. It is a non c-clip axle which means if you snap a shaft the axle won't walk out on you. And there are 10" drums on that unlike the 9" on 90+models
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Old 12-24-2009, 10:14 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilcano View Post
I'm new with Jeeps and will like to know something, How do you identify a Dana 35 from a Dana 44 axle?. Could you use a Dana 44 in the front and rear at the same time or the back have to be stronger than the front (lest say Dana 44/front-Dana 60/back)?
Thanks for your comments
check this link out:
Axle/Differential Identification at http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/

alot of handy info.
Dana 60 rear and a dana 44 front is a great combo.
Problem with running a Dana 60 rear you need to run big rubber to make up for the huge center section.
If you are not running larger than 36's and a v8 with hardcore wheeling you really do not need it.
But if you can do it you will never have to worry.
I run a ford 9" in my scrambler, out of an early bronco those are almost as tough as a D60.
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Old 12-24-2009, 07:02 PM   #18
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler1 View Post
check this link out:
Axle/Differential Identification at http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/

Dana 60 rear and a dana 44 front is a great combo.
Problem with running a Dana 60 rear you need to run big rubber to make up for the huge center section.
If you are not running larger than 36's and a v8 with hardcore wheeling you really do not need it.
But if you can do it you will never have to worry.
I run a ford 9" in my scrambler, out of an early bronco those are almost as tough as a D60.
I got you, but you also need at least 6" lift to run larger tires than 36's, right?. I'm reserching and asking friends about a Chevy-350/small block engine. A friend of mine have a Caprice Classic with that engine.
Thanks
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Old 12-24-2009, 08:16 PM   #19
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Merry Christmans..................Feliz Navidad
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:31 AM   #20
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check your emissions regulations in your state, it may become very expensive to make that satisfy emissions, some states the computer must jive with the vehicle. the computer can't be programmed to say caprice in a jeep. in illinois you just have to have the obd 2 system working in a 96 and newer vehicle, with no codes to pass.
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Old 12-25-2009, 01:22 PM   #21
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We have the same 96-up OBDII regulations here in NY Check engine light on, automatic failure....... Which is the main reason i made sure i bought a 95 and early for my project...within the city limits it's a 3 minute dyno run while measuring emissions...outside of the city it's nothing more than a safety inspection......... Of course it doesn't hurt that i'm a DMV licensed inspector and do my own inspections
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Old 12-25-2009, 01:43 PM   #22
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Smile

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......... Of course it doesn't hurt that i'm a DMV licensed inspector and do my own inspections
lol Yes......OF course not
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Old 12-25-2009, 04:24 PM   #23
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I'm reserching and asking friends about a Chevy-350/small block engine. A friend of mine have a Caprice Classic with that engine.
Thanks

Is the engine you ar looking at the LT1 or the L05? The LT1 would be awesome because its port injected but the l05 isn't bad either,its a TBI setup.

The LT1's are amazing my buddy has one in his 96 impala ss and that thing gets up and goes, the l05's arent bad either i have one in my 3500 longbed but man does that thing use a lot of gas.
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Old 12-25-2009, 05:57 PM   #24
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by 93yjsplash View Post
Is the engine you ar looking at the LT1 or the L05? The LT1 would be awesome because its port injected but the l05 isn't bad either,its a TBI setup.

The LT1's are amazing my buddy has one in his 96 impala ss and that thing gets up and goes, the l05's arent bad either i have one in my 3500 longbed but man does that thing use a lot of gas.
I'm not sure about the LT1 but someone told me that is a bit more complicated to install due to the fuel injection and the computer/harness, etc. than the 350 small block carbureted Chevy engine. Again, I'm not an expert on this but I want this to be the simplest it can be.
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Old 12-25-2009, 07:43 PM   #25
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carbs suck
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Old 12-26-2009, 06:33 AM   #26
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carbs suck
X 2, If you are going to wheel it Fuel injection is what you want.
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Old 12-26-2009, 11:46 AM   #27
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Smile Rear axle question

Hey there is a guy in NJ selling a Dana 44/front and Ford 9"/back. It's that a good combination for a YJ?
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Old 12-26-2009, 01:24 PM   #28
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depends on what d44 front.
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Old 12-26-2009, 01:40 PM   #29
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Rear axle question

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdocdave View Post
depends on what d44 front.
What do you mean?
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Old 12-26-2009, 01:46 PM   #30
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what the d44 front came out of, all d44's are not the same. some are gonna be longer than others, some are gonna have less caster the way they're built, and obviously the differential can be on different sides.

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