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Recently lost my TJ, looking into getting a YJ

1K views 7 replies 7 participants last post by  Mowrangler 
#1 ·
Long story short, my beloved 2000 TJ that I saved for two years to buy was killed by some d-bag who decided to run a stop sign. The damage ranged from upper control arms, tie rods, hood, grill, radiator, fenders, basically an entire front end replacement. Insurance considered it a total loss because the cost to repair would be worth more than the vehicle itself.
So I recently stumbled upon a 1988 YJ with a manual trans, 4 lift, Ford 8.8 axel with locker, fairly new tires, brand new brakes and brake lines, I6-258 engine, new paint, new pan, and transmission recently serviced. Let me know what you YJ owners think not just about this vehicle itself but also about making a backwards jump from a TJ to a YJ. I know the obvious like how it has leafs instead of coils which means it will be generally less comfortable
 

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#2 ·
After the insurance totals it, you can usually buy it back for around $500 (at least that's what happened with my truck). I used the money they paid me for it to fix it and had money left over. The downside is that you'll have a jeep with a salvaged title. But if you love it that much you might just be able to fix it. As for the 88 YJ, you may have a hard time going from fuel injected to carb. You might want to look for something 91 and newer with the 4.0 engine. I have a 90 with the 4.2 and love it, but I'm old and have driven carbureted vehicles most of my life.
 
#4 ·
In Florida if an insurance company totals out a vehicle the state issues a Certificate Of Destruction title on that vehicle. That means it can only be scrapped or sold for parts , it can not be repaired and put back on the road.
 
#7 ·
Good leafs like OME can provide a comfortable ride in a YJ, similar to a 1996 Cadillac, when paired with good shocks and greasable shackles. Maybe not as smooth as a TJ, but pretty damn smooth for leaf springs.

Going carbed means less electronics to worry about, but you need to be good with troubleshooting carbs as there is no computer to throw codes at you to tell you what is wrong. Carbs - go aftermarket - sweet jeebus avoid trying to polish the turd known as the factory Carter BBD setup. The BA-10 transmission (notoriously weak) is stock on 87-89 YJ's, but sometimes people swap in an AX-15 (1990+), so be sure to check there if you are considering this YJ.

The 4.2L in the 1987-1990 YJ is a good engine for low end torque and with proper gearing it will pull like a tractor off-road. The max torque peaks at around 2200 rpms. It's all about the low end torque in the 4.2L.

Rust, rust, rust. It's an old Jeep in Florida's wet tropical environment. Thoroughly inspect the body and frame for rust. Floorboards too.

Also, be aware that a 1988 YJ is 26 years old. Age was a factor that I was blind to when I bought my 1990 YJ - I never considered that a nearly 20 year old Jeep was going to have problems start popping up after buying it.

A YJ can be a great Jeep, for the right person. It's also a piece of history - it's the first Wrangler and the last short wheelbase Jeep to have leaf springs. It has much more in common with the venerable CJ than any Wrangler since. Heck, you can even swap in CJ parts onto a YJ.
 
#8 ·
We don't have the rust issues like other parts of the country do (unless someone drove it into the ocean). I have been working on cars in Florida for over 35 years and the only rusty cars I have seen were from up north. That doesn't mean don't inspect it for rust by all means do but if the Carfax (or similar) says its from Florida its probably not rusty.
 
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