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Old 10-21-2012, 10:08 AM   #31
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I've noticed, since my last seafoam cleaning, that my lifter tick is all gone now. It was annoying when I first started the engine and it was cold. Now, I can start it and run it and no more lifter tick.

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Old 10-22-2012, 10:37 AM   #32
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did you add it through the oil/crankcase for this? If so, how long did you leave it in the oil before you changed it?

If you used a vacuum line, which one? Thanks!

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Old 10-22-2012, 10:43 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by groovetrain View Post
did you add it through the oil/crankcase for this? If so, how long did you leave it in the oil before you changed it?

If you used a vacuum line, which one? Thanks!
I did mine through the brake booster line.

When I added it to the crankcase, I let it sit for about 5 miles before my oil change. Let it sit idle for a bit to get up to temps before taking off. Then oil change.

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Old 10-22-2012, 01:43 PM   #34
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I agree with mellow

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Originally Posted by MellowYellow89YJ View Post
These are the facts... Seafoam works. Whether you pour it in your fuel tank, add it to the oil, or inject it thru the vac system... It works to clean out fuel varnish and baked or caked on oil in your engine. It doesn't cause new problems, but can reveal existing issues that were masked be all the gunk.
This stuff is amazing, I ran some through the gas tank, did not notice much, ran 1/2 a can through the oil, flushed some nasty sludge out, and then I ran it through the vacuum lines and boy did it wake up my little 2.5, it is much quicker and no longer has a backfire issue, it must have cleaned the valves, they were probably getting stuck open from gunk. I love seafoam. Hate it if you want but that just makes more for us!
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:18 PM   #35
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When I added it to the crankcase, I let it sit for about 5 miles before my oil change. Let it sit idle for a bit to get up to temps before taking off. Then oil change.
So 5 miles of driving around? And let it get up to temp before driving it that 5 miles? Seems reasonable. Thanks, I just wish this stuff wasn't so darned expensive. But I guess if it works, it works.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:40 PM   #36
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Run enough seafoam and it'll clear out everything. It'll clean out your gas tank, then your fuel filter, then your lines, then your injector, then your intake, then your exhaust.

People like to over-react over thingsl ike this because it's unfamiliar to it. It's been proven to work. It breaks down the gunk and basically disssolves it into microscopic particles that won't clog up anything.
kinda yes, no.

here is the problem with sea foam from a Mechanic's Perceptive.

1)...its very abrasive! BUT NO PROBLEM!! its got awesome cleaning powers, the problem is it can take the crap thats stuck in the tank and run it straight into your fuel filter. Sea foam DOES not clean your fuel filter, and it SHOULDN'T, if it somehow makes dirt/grime go threw the filter and into the injectors we have bigger problems... (My advice: run sea foam through the jeep then change your fuel filter soon!)
2) People get the "butt dyno" but is it really working? I have used seafoam, I have seen my own idle become smoother but people make it sound like superman pee'd in a can and GumOUT is selling it to the masses...again not the case
3) Seafoam doesnt fix everything, people treat it as its magical pixie dust for cars. again, dont try to bandaid something, if your trucks missing most likely this isnt going to fix your problem but who knows. Just dont come on here with every misfire thread saying "seafoam it" lol.
4) Seafoam is overpriced IMHO, get a lucas fuel treatment additive for 6 bucks and throw it in. You will most likely have the same results!

Personally, I like the induction cleaning products better, motorcraft makes one and there are various other companies that make liquid products you pour into throttlebody and let sit for 20 minutes... those are the only products i have seen that can truly take the carbon build up off pistons, intake valves intake ports and combustion chambers. I can tell because when your truck turns into a fog machine for 15 minutes you realize all the crap that was really inside of one of these engines.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:08 AM   #37
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Ive used seafoam in both my Saturns and I put 2 bottles in my jeep and surprisingly I had very little smoke so its pretty clean, It lowered my idle a bit so im sure thats a plus somewhere!
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:02 PM   #38
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I've used seafoam in my car, motorcycle, and most recently in the Jeep. I run a full can through the fuel system and half can into the intake (the new aerosol spray cans work great for this).

I have also ran it in the crankcase of the car, but if you do this you need to change the oil after about 100 miles or so.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:46 PM   #39
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mmm, seafoam....
Haha
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:18 AM   #40
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I ran Sea Foam once, got a flat tire right after, stubbed my toe, unplugged my battery and lost all of my pre-programmed stations. never again.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:29 AM   #41
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I worked at an auto parts store for about two and a half years and we had a lot of sales on Seafoam. I'd used it once in the tank of my Camaro and it did nothing for the performance or anything else.

I have heard NOT to put it in your oil due to the fact Seafoam is made to degrease and it will have an affect on the way the oil lubricates the engine. Not sure how much truth there is to this, but I'm not willing to try it. I am, however, very willing to encourage some of you to try it and act as guinea pigs.

I have heard about putting 1/3 of the can down a brake vacuum line, then sitting back and watching the entire neighborhood become engulfed in smoke.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:43 AM   #42
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I have heard NOT to put it in your oil due to the fact Seafoam is made to degrease and it will have an affect on the way the oil lubricates the engine. Not sure how much truth there is to this, but I'm not willing to try it. I am, however, very willing to encourage some of you to try it and act as guinea pigs.
I have done this multiple times. That is why I said a few posts back that you only run for about 100 miles after adding it to your crankcase and then change your oil.

OR you could just read the back of the can....
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:47 AM   #43
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I have done this multiple times. That is why I said a few posts back that you only run for about 100 miles after adding it to your crankcase and then change your oil.

OR you could just read the back of the can....
I've seen enough cans of this stuff to have read the back of the can.

I don't trust any of that stuff about how, "Oh, our product won't cause damage," only to hear about how products were pulled months later because they actually did cause damage. I just find it hard to believe anything companies claim anymore.

Anyway, wasting $25 on an oil change (plus $9 for the Seafoam) just to redo an oil change 100 miles later seems like a big waste.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:48 AM   #44
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Why would you change your oil prior to putting it in?

That makes no sense.

FYI, 70,000+ miles in my DD before the Jeep with no distinguishable damage from said Seafoam.
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:11 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Con Artist
I worked at an auto parts store for about two and a half years and we had a lot of sales on Seafoam. I'd used it once in the tank of my Camaro and it did nothing for the performance or anything else.

I have heard NOT to put it in your oil due to the fact Seafoam is made to degrease and it will have an affect on the way the oil lubricates the engine. Not sure how much truth there is to this, but I'm not willing to try it. I am, however, very willing to encourage some of you to try it and act as guinea pigs.

I have heard about putting 1/3 of the can down a brake vacuum line, then sitting back and watching the entire neighborhood become engulfed in smoke.
I must say, I have heard enough bad advice at parts counters to know NOT to trust the advice of those who work at Auto parts stores .
It does no damage when added to the CC oil for a short time.... Proven fact, no need for guinea pigs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Con Artist

I've seen enough cans of this stuff to have read the back of the can.

I don't trust any of that stuff about how, "Oh, our product won't cause damage," only to hear about how products were pulled months later because they actually did cause damage. I just find it hard to believe anything companies claim anymore.

Anyway, wasting $25 on an oil change (plus $9 for the Seafoam) just to redo an oil change 100 miles later seems like a big waste.

Seafoam has been around for a very long time and has never been pulled off the shelf. It has, infact, been proven to work... If you put it in a vehicle that did not need it and expected better performance (which Seafoam does not claim to give) you were the problem, not Seafoam. It is meant to cure minor problems related to engine gunk and RESTORE performance, nothing more.

And you don't change the oil before using it. You wait until you a getting close to oil change time, then add the Seafoam and drive it 100miles or so, and then change the oil as you normally would.
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:23 AM   #46
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I must say, I have heard enough bad advice at parts counters to know not to trust the advice of those who work at Auto parts stores .

It does no damage when added to the CC oil for a short time.... Proven fact, no need for guinea pigs.

Seafoam has been around for a very long time and has never been pulled off the shelf. It has, infact, been proven to work... If you put it in a vehicle that did not need it and expected better performance (which Seafoam does not claim to give) you were the problem, not Seafoam. It is meant to cure minor problems related to engine gunk and RESTORE performance, nothing more.

And you don't change the oil before using it. You wait until you a getting close to oil change time, then add the Seafoam and drive it 100miles or so, and then change the oil as you normally would.
Well, sorry to hear you think I'm an idiot when it comes to car repair, but I'm going to challenge you on this case of running it in your crankcase. How is a product that removes lubricating properties good to run in your engine, even if it IS for "only 100 miles?"

When you say, "RESTORE PERFORMANCE," that is the same as "INCREASING PERFORMANCE," but let's not split hairs.

There are tons of products out there that make the same claims that Seafoam does; STP and Lucas, are two of them. Lucas claims their products are just fantastic when adding them to oil, but what it does is COAT moving parts. Sooner or later those "protective properties" Lucas claims to have are going to gum something up in sludge.

Now, let's get back to the part about trusting the auto parts store guy...I wouldn't listen to a single one of the people I worked with. Most of them were were complete hacks when it came to repairing cars, and the ones who weren't were little teenie-boppers working their first jobs since leaving high school. It was pretty funny how these people who passed their "required tests" thought they were mechanics, yet nearly all of them drove around in 1987 Mazdas or 1990 Probe GTs (examples...) who couldn't keep them on the road.
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:48 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Con Artist

Well, sorry to hear you think I'm an idiot when it comes to car repair, but I'm going to challenge you on this case of running it in your crankcase. How is a product that removes lubricating properties good to run in your engine, even if it IS for "only 100 miles?"

When you say, "RESTORE PERFORMANCE," that is the same as "INCREASING PERFORMANCE," but let's not split hairs.

There are tons of products out there that make the same claims that Seafoam does; STP and Lucas, are two of them. Lucas claims their products are just fantastic when adding them to oil, but what it does is COAT moving parts. Sooner or later those "protective properties" Lucas claims to have are going to gum something up in sludge.

Now, let's get back to the part about trusting the auto parts store guy...I wouldn't listen to a single one of the people I worked with. Most of them were were complete hacks when it came to repairing cars, and the ones who weren't were little teenie-boppers working their first jobs since leaving high school. It was pretty funny how these people who passed their "required tests" thought they were mechanics, yet nearly all of them drove around in 1987 Mazdas or 1990 Probe GTs (examples...) who couldn't keep them on the road.
I've used seafoam forever no ill effects at all and we put it in my buddies 240 with a sr20 turbo with a valve tap and as soon as he put it in no more noise also its not meant to improve performance when added to the fuel tank and if you did read the can then you would see its meant for a fuel stabilizer and to clean injectors but I guess your just one of those teenie boppers who just read the backs of cans and not actually know the use of a great product
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:03 PM   #48
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I've used seafoam forever no ill effects at all and we put it in my buddies 240 with a sr20 turbo with a valve tap and as soon as he put it in no more noise also its not meant to improve performance when added to the fuel tank and if you did read the can then you would see its meant for a fuel stabilizer and to clean injectors but I guess your just one of those teenie boppers who just read the backs of cans and not actually know the use of a great product
Nice try. Thanks for contradicting yourself. Allow me to highlight WHERE.

Oh, what's that? Yeah, try again. Nice fail.

Again, I never said anything about Seafoam causing failures, so you've managed to fail twice within one post. I didn't think that was possible until I just read your post.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:22 PM   #49
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Nice try. Thanks for contradicting yourself. Allow me to highlight WHERE.

Oh, what's that? Yeah, try again. Nice fail.

Again, I never said anything about Seafoam causing failures, so you've managed to fail twice within one post. I didn't think that was possible until I just read your post.
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I've used seafoam forever no ill effects at all and we put it in my buddies 240 with a sr20 turbo with a valve tap and as soon as he put it in no more noise also its not meant to improve performance when added to the fuel tank and if you did read the can then you would see its meant for a fuel stabilizer and to clean injectors but I guess your just one of those teenie boppers who just read the backs of cans and not actually know the use of a great product

I'm confused on how he contradicted himself?

He stated after adding it helped alleviate lifter tap. An educated assumption here by anyone with minimal mechanical ability would tell you that it was added to the crankcase in this instance due to the lifters not being part of the fuel system.

THEN said "when added to the fuel system" and continued from there.

Maybe you read that post as well as you read the back of the can.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:32 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Con Artist

Well, sorry to hear you think I'm an idiot when it comes to car repair, but I'm going to challenge you on this case of running it in your crankcase. How is a product that removes lubricating properties good to run in your engine, even if it IS for "only 100 miles?"

When you say, "RESTORE PERFORMANCE," that is the same as "INCREASING PERFORMANCE," but let's not split hairs.

There are tons of products out there that make the same claims that Seafoam does; STP and Lucas, are two of them. Lucas claims their products are just fantastic when adding them to oil, but what it does is COAT moving parts. Sooner or later those "protective properties" Lucas claims to have are going to gum something up in sludge.

Now, let's get back to the part about trusting the auto parts store guy...I wouldn't listen to a single one of the people I worked with. Most of them were were complete hacks when it came to repairing cars, and the ones who weren't were little teenie-boppers working their first jobs since leaving high school. It was pretty funny how these people who passed their "required tests" thought they were mechanics, yet nearly all of them drove around in 1987 Mazdas or 1990 Probe GTs (examples...) who couldn't keep them on the road.
I was an ASE trained stealership employee before I went and got my engineering degree.... I am no idiot, and did not call you an idiot. I just don't think you are basing your impression on proven facts. Go ahead and challenge my knowledge, I welcome it.

Now lets get back on topic... Seafoam. The use in CC oil is nothing new and is simply proven to work. Read the bottle, follow directions, and be happy. If it fails to fix your gunk issues, it was worth a try. But it will not increase performance on an already clean, properly running engine. Without knowing their propritary formula, I really can't be more specific as to what and why more than pointing you to their website or a google seach. Seafoam has been around longer than many of us who frequent JF and has never been pulled off the shelves. If it were a brand new product, your skeptiscism would be valid, but in this case I think your being a bit paranoid as they have sold millions of bottles of the stuff over 60+ years. I have used it many times to fix sticking lifters, you could also pull the valve covers to see the head is noticibly cleaner. I have used it to remove varnish in old fuel systems as well. Thru the vac system will break down carbon build up, which can be seen just by pulling the plugs. Lots of evidence that it works as they claim, lots of proof over the last 60 years that it does not cause problems.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:33 PM   #51
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Nice try. Thanks for contradicting yourself. Allow me to highlight WHERE.

Oh, what's that? Yeah, try again. Nice fail.

Again, I never said anything about Seafoam causing failures, so you've managed to fail twice within one post. I didn't think that was possible until I just read your post.


I smell a TROLL...... I'm out.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:37 PM   #52
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I smell a TROLL...... I'm out.
Try using some deodorant. I hear it works wonders!
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:39 PM   #53
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I'm confused on how he contradicted himself?

He stated after adding it helped alleviate lifter tap. An educated assumption here by anyone with minimal mechanical ability would tell you that it was added to the crankcase in this instance due to the lifters not being part of the fuel system.

THEN said "when added to the fuel system" and continued from there.

Maybe you read that post as well as you read the back of the can.
Wow, you too? I didn't see anything in that quoted text about running oil through the crankcase. I guess you simply failed to read...
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:48 PM   #54
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Wow, you too? I didn't see anything in that quoted text about running oil through the crankcase. I guess you simply failed to read...
You sir, fail at reading.

Hence why I said assumption.

Now, since I see you are not actually reading the posts I will bid you and your small mindedness farewell.

Have a nice day, and don't be late to work. People need spark plugs, windshield wipers, and the advice of the uneducated from behind the parts counter.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:27 PM   #55
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You sir, fail at reading.

Hence why I said assumption.

Now, since I see you are not actually reading the posts I will bid you and your small mindedness farewell.

Have a nice day, and don't be late to work. People need spark plugs, windshield wipers, and the advice of the uneducated from behind the parts counter.
And case in point, "Special Ed." I said I USED TO work at an auto parts store. I've moved on since then and make more than $11.50 per hour.

Thanks for your lack of reading comprehension. On that note, I'm absolutely appalled by the lack of reading comprehension going on in this thread, so I too, am out. Farewell, "gifted" fellow.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:08 PM   #56
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May mommie says im speciale!!, geez guys what a waste of time reading your bickering. Can we get back to the seafoam.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:51 AM   #57
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