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Old 06-05-2009, 01:24 AM   #1
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Unhappy she's-a-leaking! and voodoo.



i don't know if i need a plumber for this, but every time i park my 89 YJ, i notice a puddle of water with a green color show up by my passenger front wheel. i investigated a little and it seems to be coming out of this spigot right underneath the battery. i have no idea why this is happening, the car isn't running hot at all!

on a different note: i just replaced my PCV valve yesterday and it seems like problems have just been popping up ever since. when i start it up, it turns over til the cows come home but doesn't actually start until i give it some gas. if i don't give it enough it idles around 500 and then stalls when reversing. (like from the driveway to the street).

can anyone give me some insight?

ahhh! please and thank you.

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Old 06-05-2009, 05:06 AM   #2
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Hmm, that spigot is actually the drain tube for the heater core.
Normally it's supposed to be dry. Good design feature, in that this leak drips out onto the ground instead of the passenger floor.

Bad news is you need to replace the core. Roughly $50.00 I think.

While you are in there, you really should do the blower fan upgrade.
There is a swap to a Chevy Blazer unit, that is so popular the big box parts stores now list it as the YJ replacement. (Autozone, Part number PM102) You have the open the hole up some with carefully placed tin snips. This is the hole through the firewall, the the blower motor sticks through.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showp...0&postcount=33


Your other problems sound like they are carburetor/on board computer related.

There are three things that can help that greatly. They work well separately, but they work extremely well together!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=476720
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/jeep/jeep07.html
http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=MC2100

.

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Old 06-05-2009, 07:45 AM   #3
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Same thing with my 89. Definately the heater core. Will only get worse. Needs to be replaced. On a 4.2 with carb. when you start it with a warm or hot engine you have to push the accelerator at least 1/4 to 1/2 way while cranking. This is normal and indicated in the owner's manual. You can also adjust the idle screw to increase rpm's when idling. With a 5spd you should be set at least 650. Also check your solenoid to see if it's working. The PVC change is coincidental regarding other problems. It was good that you changed it. You should also change your fuel filter.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:15 PM   #4
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Thumbs down

Pepboys had it for 40.99 so I snatched one up. I'll tackle that tomorrow. I'm guessing Hayne's would have the instructions for removal and installation? Can anyone suggest a better reference?

The fuel filter is brand new. I just replaced that not too long ago. My other problem is kind of weird. Now I'm not too savvy in this department but my YJ seems to idle at two different speeds. One when it's in park/neutral and the other one when it's in drive/reverse. 1000rpm / 700rpm respectively.
I'll try cleaning the jets and changing the plugs tomorrow while I'm replacing the heater core.

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:58 PM   #5
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Pepboys had it for 40.99 so I snatched one up. I'll tackle that tomorrow. I'm guessing Hayne's would have the instructions for removal and installation? Can anyone suggest a better reference?
Not sure if I made my point earlier. If you live in a cold climate, & have a pre 91 YJ, you likely have a wimpy blower motor.

By itself it couldn't blow out the candles of a five year old's birthday cake!

If your tired of cold feet on the way to work, then you should upgrade that sucker while your in there. It'll save you from going back in there next fall.

Here's the (Correct) link;
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7274369

Follow the link in this thread, for pics & instructions.

(Sorry, last link a few posts back was wrong one.)


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Old 06-05-2009, 09:45 PM   #6
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Forget the Hayes manual. It is worthless I found out for my heater core last month. There are I belive 6 nuts to remove. They are just behind the valve cover and the rest are on the passenger side with fairly easy access. It was more of a hassle to remove the heater core than to re-install for me. You will be using about 1 1/2 gallons of coolant when you refill. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

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Old 06-05-2009, 11:10 PM   #7
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Not sure if I made my point earlier. If you live in a cold climate, & have a pre 91 YJ, you likely have a wimpy blower motor.

By itself it couldn't blow out the candles of a five year old's birthday cake!

If your tired of cold feet on the way to work, then you should upgrade that sucker while your in there. It'll save you from going back in there next fall.

Here's the (Correct) link;
heater blower location - JeepForum.com

Follow the link in this thread, for pics & instructions.

(Sorry, last link a few posts back was wrong one.)


.
buckshot. i have no idea what you're talking about. i didn't miss our point. i don't live in a cold climate, when i wake up at 7AM it's already about 90║ here in Vegas. I understand about changing the blower motor, but right now i'm just trying to fix the leaking problem without having to dip too much into my third grandchild's college savings.

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Forget the Hayes manual. It is worthless I found out for my heater core last month. There are I belive 6 nuts to remove. They are just behind the valve cover and the rest are on the passenger side with fairly easy access. It was more of a hassle to remove the heater core than to re-install for me. You will be using about 1 1/2 gallons of coolant when you refill. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Jeff
thanks Jeff! I'll look out for that. Unfortunately, this will be my very first time doing any wrenching on this thing.
I'm going to be doing many projects on it tomorrow, one being the heater core and others including the Spark Plugs and trying to adjust my idle with what little information i found on the net and of course the wonderful help I found here. Thanks!
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Old 06-06-2009, 12:29 AM   #8
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Carl, when Buckshot was talking about replacing the blower motor, that is because you will already have it out during the removal of the heater core. It is a great time to replace it if you find necessary. Good luck and feel free to ask questions.

Jeff
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Old 06-06-2009, 08:20 AM   #9
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buckshot. i have no idea what you're talking about. i didn't miss our point. i don't live in a cold climate, when i wake up at 7AM it's already about 90║ here in Vegas. I understand about changing the blower motor, but right now i'm just trying to fix the leaking problem without having to dip too much into my third grandchild's college savings.
OK, you won't need this mod in Vegas.

Please disregard my prior ramblings!

IDK what you even need a heater for! I bet you could re-rout the hoses to skip the heater core.
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Old 06-06-2009, 08:24 AM   #10
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I guess you have an automatic trans. Your rpm's seem fine. If you think the idle in park is a bit high just turn down the idle set screw a bit. Personally, I think 700 in drive should be fine. Don't forget to check the solenoid, if you have an original carb. With the old carbs and auto trans your idle will not be the same in park and drive. Since you mentioned grand kids you definately remember when fuel injection was rare and carbs were rebuilt and adjusted. On an original carb the set screws, from the outside in, are : Solenoid, auto choke and idle.
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:19 AM   #11
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Just reroute the heater hose back to make a loop. That way you by pass the heater core. Then you can take your sweet time replacing the core.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:46 AM   #12
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I guess you have an automatic trans. Your rpm's seem fine. If you think the idle in park is a bit high just turn down the idle set screw a bit. Personally, I think 700 in drive should be fine. Don't forget to check the solenoid, if you have an original carb. With the old carbs and auto trans your idle will not be the same in park and drive. Since you mentioned grand kids you definately remember when fuel injection was rare and carbs were rebuilt and adjusted. On an original carb the set screws, from the outside in, are : Solenoid, auto choke and idle.
Figure of speech! Eck no! I'm only 20. I was thinking of in the future. I might have to ask them for money on repairs on this Jeep. I traded with some guy here in Vegas and basically got screwed. I have lots of things that need to be done to this one. Thanks for the advice, during my tune up I'll definitely be sure to check those things.

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Just reroute the heater hose back to make a loop. That way you by pass the heater core. Then you can take your sweet time replacing the core.
I'm afraid that's a bit too advanced for me. I already bought the heater core so I think I'll take a stab at that first. Don't get me wrong, it does get cold here for about a month or two in January and February.


Thanks for all the help Gentlemen!
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:15 PM   #13
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Looping the hose back is about as simple as it gets. You have 2 hoses going to the core. One supply and the other the return.. Either remove them and use a small tube to link them back together. Or use one and find where it comes off at the pump and loop it there. you loose the heat funtion of the heater. But if the core let loose on a trail or on road then looping them back is all you got to do to bypass the core.
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Old 06-06-2009, 05:48 PM   #14
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Just a quick bit of advice on the heater core replacement if you have not already done it. Take a couple of minutes to pull the passanger seat out. It will make the job 10X easier.

Jeff
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Old 06-06-2009, 08:36 PM   #15
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Just a quick bit of advice on the heater core replacement if you have not already done it. Take a couple of minutes to pull the passanger seat out. It will make the job 10X easier.

Jeff
Yeah it does!
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Old 06-07-2009, 05:58 PM   #16
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Just a quick bit of advice on the heater core replacement if you have not already done it. Take a couple of minutes to pull the passanger seat out. It will make the job 10X easier.

Jeff
Jeff thanks for the advice. Did it Now I'm still tackling this thing two days in. It just seems like the box doesn't want to come out. All the diagrams i'm looking at are pretty much useless because they don't look like mine do. I took out most of the bolts i could find on the firewall and I still can't get this thing loose. Is it supposed to be tough to remove?

Still trying.

Help!
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:30 PM   #17
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Have you removed the cables for the vent controls? How many nuts did you have to remove? I don't remember how many there were, but I think it is 6. Also, make sure you remove the hoses from the heater core if not done. You should be able to lift from the bottom then it should pretty much want to fall on the floor. You may have to muscle it for a bit to get the original sealant to give. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. One last bit of advice I learned the hard way. If you have the spring loaded clamps for the heater core hoses, toss them and get the old fasioned hose clamp with the 5/16 bolt going thru them. My old ones would not hold tension enough and developed a leak.

Jeff
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:38 PM   #18
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Have you removed the cables for the vent controls? How many nuts did you have to remove? I don't remember how many there were, but I think it is 6. Also, make sure you remove the hoses from the heater core if not done. You should be able to lift from the bottom then it should pretty much want to fall on the floor. You may have to muscle it for a bit to get the original sealant to give. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. One last bit of advice I learned the hard way. If you have the spring loaded clamps for the heater core hoses, toss them and get the old fasioned hose clamp with the 5/16 bolt going thru them. My old ones would not hold tension enough and developed a leak.

Jeff
Jeff, pardon my newbness but I see a lot of hoses running around in this thing. I have an 89 with air conditioner pump but it's not connected. The hoses I see running inside the cab closest to the passenger side are both coming form this disconnected pump. Under the dash I have vents in the middle by the 4wd stick. Should I have to remove anything else? I removed 6 bolts 2 large 4 small. Also, the cover to the blower fins is off. I managed to take that off.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:25 PM   #19
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My Jeep does not have A/C, but the hoses come from the top of the enging front where your thermostat goes and the second comes from a copper tube just below it. The hoses on my Jeep run along the passenger side of the valve cover to the heater core. I had to remove the cable mounting points at the vent by the passenger foot area and also the center vent control behind the 4x4 stick.
No worries on the newbness thing. I am in the same boat. I am learning as I go. I am sure you are probably frustrated as I was working to get it out.

Try this link, it may be of better assistance than me trying to explain via this forum. Good luck and again, any questions, feel free to ask.

87 YJ Heater Core Replacement (short write up) - Quadratec Jeep Forum

Jeff
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:27 PM   #20
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My Jeep does not have A/C, but the hoses come from the top of the enging front where your thermostat goes and the second comes from a copper tube just below it. The hoses on my Jeep run along the passenger side of the valve cover to the heater core. I had to remove the cable mounting points at the vent by the passenger foot area and also the center vent control behind the 4x4 stick.
No worries on the newbness thing. I am in the same boat. I am learning as I go. I am sure you are probably frustrated as I was working to get it out.

Try this link, it may be of better assistance than me trying to explain via this forum. Good luck and again, any questions, feel free to ask.

87 YJ Heater Core Replacement (short write up) - Quadratec Jeep Forum

Jeff
Jeff/everyone- Thanks for all your patience and advice and your wonderful help. With everyone's input I was able to get this project done: albeit it took me damn near 12 hours. In my 89 YJ with A/C, i had to remove the entire A/C system below the dash to even imagine getting the heater box out. AFTER doing that, everything was pretty smooth and straight forward. Aftermarket heater core's DO NOT bring the insulation on the inside. Krazy Glue and $3 window insulation from walmart remedied. No more leak now and a happy little YJ.

Thanks again. 6cyl 4.2L w/ A/C ... TAKE OUT THE A/C UNDER THE DASH!!! Leak system from engine compartment so it doesn't get all over your carpet.

Thanks again!
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:37 PM   #21
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You are welcome buddy. Glad to hear it is back together. Now go and get it muddy and take pics.

Jeff
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:56 PM   #22
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Good deal, glad your back in action!

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