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Old 09-29-2009, 05:49 PM   #1
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Soa??

Does anybody know where to get info on doing a spring over conversion. on a YJ. Is it hard to get the angles right or to do the conversion.

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Old 09-29-2009, 05:58 PM   #2
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peterson's 4wheel offroad just did one in an article about two months back. they go through the whole suspension build but dont show anything on how to do the steering setup

Spring Over Conversions Jeep YJ - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

here is a link to that if it gets the ball rollin

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Old 09-29-2009, 07:21 PM   #3
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peterson's 4wheel offroad just did one in an article about two months back. they go through the whole suspension build but dont show anything on how to do the steering setup

Spring Over Conversions Jeep YJ - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

here is a link to that if it gets the ball rollin
not really sure why they cut the shackle mounts off the frame and all that, i didn't read the whole thing.

there's a lot of different points to an soa, there's cheap things people do that should be avoided also, what do you need to know.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:43 PM   #4
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Do I still need a drop pitman arm or is it better without it. What are the angles for the drive line? I think the front axle needs to be as level as it can because of steering but the back drive shaft can be more in line.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:53 PM   #5
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ok, drop pitman arm yes. leave the front axle alone, do not change the angles. the rear pinion angle has to be changed, along with a slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case and a cv style driveshaft in the rear.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:53 PM   #6
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rocky-road outfitters has a kit that is supposed to self align itself so u dont have to worry about dealing with getting angles right. seems like a decent kit, ive met some ppl with other stuff from rocky-road and they seem to have their stuff sorted out pretty nicely
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:29 AM   #7
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Depending on how high your springs are I would think long and hard about it. If you are driving this thing every day, I say leave it alone. The front is going to be the issue here. When you put the spring on top, it will put the front pinion so far out of alignment that you will have to run a cv front or not be able to drive in 4wd for long distance on the road. To do it right, the front "c's" need to be cut from the axle tube and rotated till they are 5 degrees positive . If the "c's" are roatated to far negative (towards the front bumper) this thing will not be driveable. It will clean every ditch out and be all over the road. The back you just want to set it to an angle with the drive shaft in, perches loose on housing with u bolts slightly tight; so you can match the angle coming from the transfer case. You will have to buy a slip yoke eliminator and a cv drive shaft for the rear as stated before. The steering is going to be fun. One way to do it is to swap a dana 44 flat top knuckle to the dana 30 and install a high steer kit. There are some companys that sell kits that use stock knuckles but have a series of bars and brackets.

Hope this gives you an idea of the job ahead.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:39 AM   #8
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well seeing as I'm getting materials for this to. so lets make a shopping list, u need a drop pit man arm, either new perches or cut and reweild the old ones. now what about shock mounts can those stay put or do they need to be relocated. and as far as steering can i keep the factory setup and modify it or should that be overhauled completely.and i realize high steer is better but for time being I'm trying to get it done on a budget.
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:09 AM   #9
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The front is going to be the issue here. When you put the spring on top, it will put the front pinion so far out of alignment that you will have to run a cv front or not be able to drive in 4wd for long distance on the road. To do it right, the front "c's" need to be cut from the axle tube and rotated till they are 5 degrees positive .


After driving through 2 Wisconsin winters on my SOA without this done I call B.S.

As far as steering I run the JB4x4 setup and am very happy, ZERO bumpsteer.

http://jb4x4.com/
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdocdave View Post
not really sure why they cut the shackle mounts off the frame and all that, i didn't read the whole thing.

there's a lot of different points to an soa, there's cheap things people do that should be avoided also, what do you need to know.
you cut the shackle mounts off to do a shackle reversal. the hubby did that on his.
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:22 AM   #11
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that jb steering set up looks nice and he even sends a new drag link looks nice i'm thinking about that when i do mine
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:56 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Jesse-James View Post
After driving through 2 Wisconsin winters on my SOA without this done I call B.S.

As far as steering I run the JB4x4 setup and am very happy, ZERO bumpsteer.

JB4x4.COM - Rockcrawling, Mud Running, and Four Wheeling from Nebraska

Opinions may vary. No since being rude.



What lift spring are you wanting to use?
What is a projected overall height that you are wanting?
What advantages are you looking for out of a Spring Over?


Parts list is a great idea.
I do like the jb steering adapter that Jessejames mentioned. That is a nice piece for a budget.

so u need:

shocks (measure after lift for length)
Springs (if going over 6")
Spring perches
New Leaf tie bolts (to move leaf button from top of spring to bottom)
Slip Yoke Eliminator
CV Rear Drive Shaft
Front Drive Shaft Alteration
Brake Line Extension all around
Steering Adapter
Drag link
Steering Stabalizer (optional)
Drop Pitman Arm

Im sure Im forgetting things.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:07 PM   #13
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i took an el cheapo magnetic angle finder and measured what angle the stock perches were. then i matched the angle on the new perches up on top and tacked them on. triple checked and then burned them on.

on the rear, i went just a hair south of straight at the tcase yoke and tacked them on (with weight on the axle)

i had to get my front shaft extended but i did the perches that let you stretch an inch (in front) my rear perches i cut off and reused.

i relocated the brake hard lines in front so i didnt need any extension but i did extend the rear.

steering im running a drop pitman arm and nothing else, although i'd like the jb steering setup. current steering works fine for me on my leaf setup.

shocks.....i swapped to the 8.8 at the same time so i welded new shock mounts on there. on the axle end up front im using factory shock mounts. i cut out the shock tower and welded in f-250 shock towers so i could use eye to eye shocks instead of eye to stud.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:07 PM   #14
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Opinions may vary. No since being rude.
Not trying to be rude. And it has nothing to do with opinion. It does not need to be done unless there are other variables besides just doing a spring over.

I'll also add that if you are going to use the crossover steering adapter with the new draglink then you don't use a drop pitman arm either.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:54 PM   #15
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ok so it sound to me that u can on the cheap by just using a drop pitman arm. and if u want to go really nice the jb setup looks good. and we have one person that says adjust the front axle placement and two that say no, i think the culprit here is that dave and jesse used stock springs to do their soa, and yard fab used lift spring along with soa. in witch case it would make sense to me why he would need to adjust pinion angle. because of the shear height of the rig just my 2 cents though
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:44 PM   #16
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you cut the shackle mounts off to do a shackle reversal. the hubby did that on his.
thats what i figured they were doing, just wondering why they combined the two processes but only called it an soa build.

jeeze, this thread went kinda nuts.

a normal soa, even up to +2.5" lift springs does not require cutting and modifying the d30 to change pinion angle and caster, i've done it. on other axles it does, like the scout d44 front i'm using all that has to be done. i agree with morphious, yardfab's neck of the woods they go beyond your average jeep, that changes things. but for this purpose considering the op, we're gonna stay more down to earth.

a normal soa can use the orignal steering parts, a drop pitman arm is needed to do so. and every jeep acts different, the black one in my garage the stock drag link clears the right front leaf, on my first yj we made a drag link out of dom tubing, bent with a slight z, and gussets welded in the bends to clear the spring, and it was hella strong, those were the dark ages i guess looking back. and actually the flatter the spring, the more likely the link will run into it, a slightly lifted spring, or at least not tired spring there's a chance it will clear.

i haven't looked at kits in a long time, but i never saw an soa kit i liked.
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Old 10-01-2009, 02:32 PM   #17
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After driving through 2 Wisconsin winters on my SOA without this done I call B.S.

As far as steering I run the JB4x4 setup and am very happy, ZERO bumpsteer.

JB4x4.COM - Rockcrawling, Mud Running, and Four Wheeling from Nebraska
I agree. I run a SOA with stock pitman and the JB4x4 setup and have no issues. I also do not have nor need a stabilizer. Mine is a daily driver.
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:01 PM   #18
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So it looks like I need a drop pitman arm and longer drive shaft? Do I still need the longer drive shaft and SYE if I only go with a 2.5 in spring lift?
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:04 PM   #19
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just a 2 1/2 spring under lift you shouldn't need a longer driveshaft, with soa you need not only a longer shaft, but its a cv shaft, and a slip yoke eliminator on the t case.
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:13 PM   #20
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this is not a very simple topic. so many different ways to do it. i only believe in using new part especially if your going for some serious rock rash. there is one fact that i have learned. no matter what lift height you go for on soa you want to revamp your steering. you always want to go for the cross over steering over the inverted y any day. a drop pitman arm is a must. most of the time you want to use brannew springs. they are right about the rear being easy. the front is only a problem because of steering angles and such. i have read something about cutting and angling the inner c's. i don't know about this on a soa. but in a coil over suspension changing the inner c angle reduces the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE!!! dun dun dun. sorry i had a moment. and another thing to know is that every jeep is different!! no jeep will be the same when doing a soa. read lots and lots. if you search soa, there is a really big thread that i beleve i started not sure. but there are a lot of answers in there.
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:49 PM   #21
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So if I just go with a 2.5 spring lift and 1 or 1.5 lift shackles with no SOA then I should be ok with my drive shafts until I have the money? I only want to clear 33" tires cause I have a 2.5L balless wonder.
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:57 PM   #22
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I also took my sway bar links off and it seems to ride really good. Think I should cut off the track bars? my old CJ's did not have them. Do you think that now that I have the swat bar off if I cut the track bars off it will not be controllable?
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Old 10-02-2009, 07:20 AM   #23
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definately lose the rear trac bar, the front is either way, many people do and don't care. i'd leave the sway bar links, but many people ditch it all and drive it down the road all day long

i'd look into a 4" spring under lift, sounds more like what you need. and thats what you really need to clear 33's decently.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:03 AM   #24
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So if I go with a 4" spring under lift I don't have to get new drive shafts? just drop my T-case?
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:10 AM   #25
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You might want to do a motor mount lift instead of the TC drop if you go that route. Same driveline angle without the skid dragging on everything, but yes you can do it without the SYE/new shaft.

Nothing wrong with doing a SUA lift for now, doing things like hi steer and SYE/shaft as money allows, and going SOA later on. I did the front first and left the rear SUA with 4" springs and 1 1/4" shackles until I could afford the rest. Did what I could as budget allowed.

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