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Old 05-16-2011, 10:16 AM   #1
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SOA... What parts and how much $$ it costs FOR REAL

Long story short am about to pull the trigger for a 4" lift but at this point if I invest in a CV shaft and SYE I mine as well do this right. Myself and buddy work out of his shop, he is a welder bye day, drinker welder at night. We have done plenty of fabrications and lift kits over the years and personally don't think this can be to hard. Main thing im worried about is angles and just getting everything welded in the right spot! Which I will do more research before I pull the trigger. Now the ongoing arguement of an SOA being CHEAP AS HELL its the only way to go! Then the people who really have them and do it say expect more this and that. I am understanding but just what is more. I know its not just free, or 100 bucks but by saying its not as cheap as you think do ya'll mean after buying the cv shafts adn sye and whatnot? Figure I can get the mounting pieces from Rough Country sot here nice and new, then the pitman arm, transfer case drop, u-bolts, and shocks all for 370 RETAIL from there website. I would HOPE i can get by for a month or so with just a t-case drop and then get the sye and shaft later. Is that possible or no? So to sum up here is my questions on SOA

1-Just what else do I need. not running trac bars or sway bars.

2-With decent handy builders tallents and a top notch welder on board can 3 of us people bang this job out pretty simple. Not calling for a one night job but within a week of us putting 5 hours in a nice shouldn't take longer!

3-What other suggestion do you recommend. Im probably 70% on road doing a 11 mile trip one way if I drive it, otherwise its 11 miles and solid trails and possibly rock crawlin if I go SOA being it will actually do it now.

4- Can I get by without SYE and shaft for a little bit? Drop tcase and just go easy until i get shafts?

5- Should I run stock shackle height I hacve 1 1/4 on now and I feel thats gonna be way to much.

I know its the millionth time asked about soa's but im ready to order parts today and get ball rolling.

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Old 05-16-2011, 10:31 AM   #2
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1-Just what else do I need. not running trac bars or sway bars.

You can throw the rear trackbar away but you might wanna hang on to the front just in case she is squirly. We run the sways, but use disconnects

2-With decent handy builders tallents and a top notch welder on board can 3 of us people bang this job out pretty simple. Not calling for a one night job but within a week of us putting 5 hours in a nice shouldn't take longer!

it can be done in a weekend if pressed

4- Can I get by without SYE and shaft for a little bit? Drop tcase and just go easy until i get shafts?

You dont need a SYE, and never waste your money on a junk CV shaft

5- Should I run stock shackle height I hacve 1 1/4 on now and I feel thats gonna be way to much.

Should be ok

I know its the millionth time asked about soa's but im ready to order parts today and get ball rolling.[/QUOTE]

Check this out:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/95-y...tep-77184.html

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Old 05-16-2011, 10:34 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply just the man I was looking for. Was reading your build once again that you did on your parents YJ. So your saying I can stick with the shackles I have or shoudl I drop them down to a smaller size thats greaseable.

Otherwise im really not as nervous about this now with this reply. I only want to run 33's no need for 35's in my book. I do still ahve the trac bars in the garage of course didn't throw out. And sway bar is there too so maybe just build it up with some disconnects and she can be somewhat road worthy!

Also happy to read your used all RC parts, which i'll be ordering today! And you said the pitman arm RC offers is enough drop, even with shackles or no. And i'll be doing the tcase drop it looks like.

Man im pumped.
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:36 AM   #4
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O forgot to ask. Can I get by with stock brake lines or shoudl I just go for those extended ones RC offers.
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:39 AM   #5
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You can try it with your shackles and see how it looks/drives. Case drop will be fine, I've done it for years without issue. The way I look at it, if that one inch hangs you up...your on a trail way over your capabilities anyway

You have to have the extended lines, no way around that
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:40 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
You can try it with your shackles and see how it looks/drives. Case drop will be fine, I've done it for years without issue. The way I look at it, if that one inch hangs you up...your on a trail way over your capabilities anyway

You have to have the extended lines, no way around that
Haha well said!
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:44 AM   #7
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So if I end up needing trac bar in front, I will need to get the front drop bracket than right? I may hold off until i know I need it. I think its great rolling around the road. I don't go over 55 on way to work anyway.

NEXT QUESTION WHILE I HAVE YOU!
Gearing. Going with 4.56's. Where do I order what do I need if you could be kind enough to point in right direction. Or whats your feelings on stock gearing for just runnint he 33's on light trails and mudding stuff. I will only be crawlin maybe a few times tops. And of coruse run 4lo and low gear anyway.
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:48 AM   #8
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Its actually a raised bracket instead of a drop one for trackbar. It goes on the axle side, not the frame side.

As far as gears go, I think randys ring and pinion is gonna be your best bet for online vendors. I am close to the the TTC challenge winner here who owns a diff shop, so he does all ours
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:29 AM   #9
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How much and I looking to spend if I go w/ new gears f/r. 100% needed that I rebuild it while im in there right. I may have a shop locally do it im not to confident withit. Just gonna cost a bit more than I have right now. Will I get by though ok with stock gears?
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:37 AM   #10
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Honestly you should consider a 8.8 upgrade when you do the SOA...you can get one with factory 4.10's and then just swap the front out with one from a 2.5 jeep. To do a gearswap should be around 1000 for a shop to do it including parts.
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:40 AM   #11
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Hm that does sound like hell. I only need the 8.8 for the rear than right. As you did in your build thread. The front can stay the same?

What gears do my stock axles have now.
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:47 AM   #12
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yeah, you have a 50/50 shot on 3.07's or 3.55's....Im betting on 3.07's
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:54 AM   #13
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So if they are or not how can I check.

And if they are 3.55's is that gonna suck with 33's? are 4.10's gonna be that much better ot should I just go 4.56's in the 8.8 rear
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:06 PM   #14
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Depends on what you want....there are tags on the axles that tell the ratio.

Dads we left the 4.10's with 33's, but the others I have done we have went to 4.56. We left his because his motor will make up for the loss in ratio, and he wont be screaming down the highway with a 3 speed transmission.
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:10 PM   #15
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Ok well I found a few axles locally on CL and few part outs of 4 cylinder YJ's. So I wnt the front axle and it will have 4.10's which should work just fine right? I am runnin auto but again, so long as it goes 55 im happy dont need a mph more. As for rear coudl I just use the rear axle from a 4 cylinder motor as well since it has 4.10's or do I have to go with a 8.8 axle.
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:12 PM   #16
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You could do that, but if your going to all the trouble, why not put a rearend in there that wont give you a lick of trouble? You should be able to find a 8.8 from 200-300 bucks.
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:15 PM   #17
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TONS OF HELP you are. thanks again

So go witha 8.8 rear. I'll do some research to see what they were in stock. They have a 4.10 rear. Then I can mount up springs like you did. Then the front find a stock YJ 4 cylinder axle and that will be a 4.10 as well. And thats it right? I just ordered all the goodies from buddy from RC. $430 SHIPPED for all the good parts. Brake lines everything. PUMPED. I need to get axles. Then I can finally POR the underbody and frame while I do it and the axles too. Anything else I need to do?
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:16 PM   #18
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O one last thing. What gears would a front CJ model have. One local ad says he has two front axles from CJ's. Again is it 100% to find somethign on the axle for its gears?
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:20 PM   #19
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CJ wont work for you, the pumkin is on the passenger side and you need drivers side. You just need a 4.10 front out of a 2.5 jeep, and a 8.8 out of a 97-01 Ford explorer
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:45 PM   #20
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How much is to much to pay for a stock dana 30 out of a 4 cyl wrangler. Got a place close by that has huge amount of YJ jeeps stockpiled for parts. Said 250 for the front axle with all except calipers. Then he has 1 8.8 rear with drum brakes for 150. only 80 K miles on it. Was out of a 92 explorer 6 cyl manual.
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:58 PM   #21
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You might as well get an 8.8 with disc breaks.. also, while you're at it get one with posi, since it shouldnt cost any more.. i guess we're lucky around my area, i can get an 8.8 for $90 w/posi and disc..

Also, i dont think this was mentioned yet, you might look into getting an anti-wrap bar for the rear axle too
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:27 PM   #22
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yeah 250 is what I get out of front axles down here....yep, antiwrap bar is a must too
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:34 PM   #23
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Quote:
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You might as well get an 8.8 with disc breaks.. also, while you're at it get one with posi, since it shouldnt cost any more.. i guess we're lucky around my area, i can get an 8.8 for $90 w/posi and disc..

Also, i dont think this was mentioned yet, you might look into getting an anti-wrap bar for the rear axle too
Right well. Are the discs an essensial? I personally don't care nor see a big deal going with drums. I know the reasoning to disc but if i can get it for right price, i'll use it. I will have to call back adn make sure its a posi. That I wouldn't go without.

As for wrap bar whats the easiest wayt o make one of those! I want to make sure I get all this figured out before I even start.

As for mounting driveshaft I have to the 8.8 how is that going to work out.
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:42 PM   #24
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you get a pinion flange adapter to bolt up to the 8.8, not sure a PN on it though, googling might reveal some good info
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:46 PM   #25
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Ok that sounds decent. I understand a new driveshaft or better adaptors would be stronger but that can be later. Need to try keeping in somewhat a budget at first
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:55 PM   #26
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So is there anyone who just does the SOA with stock axles?
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:04 PM   #27
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I have done lots, and never broke a thing....but theres always better stuff for not much money difference
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:05 PM   #28
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I'm sure there are but most people do soa to fit bigger tires like 35s and up, stock dana 35s are not recommended for that size tire.. Not to mention it's one of those while you're at it upgrades.. Do it once and never think about it again.. It's relatively cheap.
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:13 PM   #29
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It's like when your wife or girlfriend bends over in front of you to tie her shoe and you say "while you're down there..". Time wise it makes sense cuz shes already down there.. And at the end of the day you feel great about your decision..
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:15 PM   #30
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