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Old 07-11-2013, 05:46 PM   #1
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This is why....

Post some this is why stories, carnage pics are welcome.


This is why you change your diff fluid after water crossings. Mine was on account of heavy rain flooding the streets. Trans and tcase checked out good.

Rear



Front


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Old 07-11-2013, 06:15 PM   #2
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Post some this is why stories, carnage pics are welcome.

This is why you change your diff fluid after water crossings. Mine was on account of heavy rain flooding the streets. Trans and tcase checked out good.

Rear

Front
The water just helps cool it right? Lol.....

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Old 07-11-2013, 06:23 PM   #3
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Did you find out why this happened? I thought the breather hose if sealed at the diff should have kept things dry.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:30 PM   #4
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Did you find out why this happened? I thought the breather hose if sealed at the diff should have kept things dry.
You should not seal the diff breather hoses, if you want to keep them out of the water you should extend them to the highest point you can get them to on the jeep. The duffs need to breath or they will get condensate in them no matter how water tight they are.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:37 PM   #5
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Gaskets keep fluids in not out. Anytime you get in the water you should inspect and change if needed.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:46 PM   #6
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Gaskets keep fluids in not out. Anytime you get in the water you should inspect and change if needed.
If they keep fluids in they will keep fluids out. Sealed is sealed no matter how you slice it. The breather would, should be the only open spot on any gear case.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:47 PM   #7
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This is why you change out that dreadful D35.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:55 PM   #8
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You should not seal the diff breather hoses, if you want to keep them out of the water you should extend them to the highest point you can get them to on the jeep. The duffs need to breath or they will get condensate in them no matter how water tight they are.
I didn't mean seal the opening, I meant seal where the breather hose goes in. When the diff fluid is warm/hot and you put it in cool water it causes a suction. If your breather hose is high enough and sealed around the diff it will pull in air instead of water. Your gasket should keep water out unless there is no way for air to get in and it sucks it through the gasket. I agree on checking each time you do a water crossing, but I do crossings regularly and don't have contamination problems (knock on wood). I also check regularly my breathers because I know i'll be in water.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:50 PM   #9
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Did you find out why this happened? I thought the breather hose if sealed at the diff should have kept things dry.
Maybe this is a dumb question... where is the breather hose located? The only opening I was aware of on the top of the pumpkin has my airlocker line run to it.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:55 PM   #10
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It happened cause I was a lazy turd who never put the breather tubes back on after rebuilding it. They are on now with fresh fluid. I went through 4 cans of brakekleen and jacked up each corner individually to drain the tubes. I think I have atleast 95% new oil. Ill change it again in October or so.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:28 PM   #11
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Maybe this is a dumb question... where is the breather hose located? The only opening I was aware of on the top of the pumpkin has my airlocker line run to it.
No dumb questions. On the rear it's on the driver side axle tube where your brake lines attach and split. It's the black hose going out the top. It ends behind the gas tank by the wheel well, if you do deep crossings you probably want to lengthen it to behind the rear taillight
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:31 PM   #12
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How do you check the trans for water? Also how do check the diffs as well?
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:46 PM   #13
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You have to open the drain plug or pull some out the fill plug with a pump. You'll know if you have water because it looks like Rednek's milky soup. Also when you open the fill plug it may come oozing out because it's overfull.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:47 PM   #14
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You have to open the drain plug or pull some out the fill plug with a pump. You'll know if you have water because it looks like Rednek's milky soup. Also when you open the fill plug it may come oozing out because it's overfull.
Okay cool thank you. I plan on doing this tomorrow because my trans is sticking when I shift into second and got stuck in some water a while back so it may be why. What do I replace it with? How much should i put in? I'm only 16 so I'm just trying to learn :newbie sorry for all the questions
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:09 AM   #15
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I have a different year than yours and mines a 5 speed manual, you can find out what type and how much at the parts store by giving them your information. If you find you had water you're going to want to do what Rednek did and flush the old out thoroughly before refilling. Also if you have a LSD rear make sure you get gear oil with the additive for limited slips.
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:16 AM   #16
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I have a different year than yours and mines a 5 speed manual, you can find out what type and how much at the parts store by giving them your information. If you find you had water you're going to want to do what Rednek did and flush the old out thoroughly before refilling. Also if you have a LSD rear make sure you get gear oil with the additive for limited slips.
Okay great thanks. I have the 5 speed as well however how exactly do I flush it out completely? I couldn't really tell in the above because it was mainly about diffs. And it's stock so would it have and LSD rear?
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:32 AM   #17
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What I would do is drain it and put new oil in it run it around the block shifting and all. Then drain and refill. That's the best way to flush a manual trans.
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:34 AM   #18
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What I would do is drain it and put new oil in it run it around the block shifting and all. Then drain and refill. That's the best way to flush a manual trans.
Okay great that's what I was thinking. Really appreciate the help.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:00 AM   #19
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No dumb questions. On the rear it's on the driver side axle tube where your brake lines attach and split. It's the black hose going out the top. It ends behind the gas tank by the wheel well, if you do deep crossings you probably want to lengthen it to behind the rear taillight
Awesome thank you! I dont think I have any at all because I encountered the milky diff issue recently and when I examined my axles I didnt notice any lines aside from my airlocker lines and break lines.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:33 AM   #20
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Water can also be pulled past the axle seals. If you have gear lube leaking onto the inside of the rim it time to do seals.
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:06 AM   #21
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Just had my front seals done because of that problem. I had gear oil siphoning up the front air locker line so I pulled the line and cleaned it and reseated. I realized my diff was basically empty so when I refilled... it all leaked right back out the drivers side of the axle lol
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:22 AM   #22
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Looks like you got a little cream for your coffee to me .. lol Cream is never a good color in any chassis,engine,axle or trans. component.
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:43 AM   #23
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I didn't mean seal the opening, I meant seal where the breather hose goes in. When the diff fluid is warm/hot and you put it in cool water it causes a suction. If your breather hose is high enough and sealed around the diff it will pull in air instead of water. Your gasket should keep water out unless there is no way for air to get in and it sucks it through the gasket. I agree on checking each time you do a water crossing, but I do crossings regularly and don't have contamination problems (knock on wood). I also check regularly my breathers because I know i'll be in water.
So couldn't you put a one way valve on the breather hose to keep water out? Or does it need to breathe in and out? Just a thought
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:00 PM   #24
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I would think it would need to breathe in and out to avoid pressure build up at the axle and diff heat and cool
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:17 PM   #25
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it has to breathe both ways you do not want the pressure to build. Or so I was told by axle guy.

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