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Old 08-14-2013, 05:25 PM   #1
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To Locker or not to Locker, that is the Question!

I have a 1995 YJ with a Ford 8.8 rear axle that has limited slip. I am having the gears changed in the stock front D30 and 8.8 to 4.88. At the same time I am having the front converted to a super 30 and a E-locker installed. The cost for the work was quoted at about $2700 for a locker in the front only and $3600 for a locker in the front and rear. I would rather not spend the extra $900 right now but if I had to I could. How much would I gain by having a locker front and rear as apposed to having a locker in front and limited slip in the rear?

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Old 08-14-2013, 05:33 PM   #2
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Wow. That's a lot of coin to drop on that axle combo...lots of people on here have limited slip 8.8s with locked fronts. And its what I will have once I install a locker in my d30

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Old 08-14-2013, 05:46 PM   #3
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The only way I'd have a rear locker is if it was selectable. I'm considering a Ox or ARB in my 8.8 once installed, the front 30 will have a Aussie.
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:48 PM   #4
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I run an 8.8 with limited slip and a D30 with an Aussie locker and it is great. I'd like to have a locker for the rear, but I don't really need one. And that price is crazy high. I'd look around a lot more before you have them do it.
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:57 PM   #5
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Well from someone who has selectable(ARB) lockers front and rear I will just tell you I love them. I have been in a couple of situations where I would have had to winch myself out or have someone winch me out and all I had to do was flip 3 little switches and I came right out. Next to the 4.6 stroker motor, the lockers were the next best thing I did to my jeep. I agree however, I think the price is a little on the high side. I think with my gears (4.56) axles and the ARB locker for my D30 I was only looking at about 1750.00 not including labor. So it seems like the guy who quoted you this is charging your what, 1000.00 to set it all up?
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:53 PM   #6
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Maybe I wasn't clear about the prices. For $2700 I would get 4.88 Yukon gears installed on both axles and the front D30 converted to super 30 and an electrically operated locker in the D30 all including installation. For $3600 I would get all the above plus an electrically operated locker installed in the rear.

P.S. I don't want ARB lockers because I don't like the idea of air lines under my Jeep. Just a personal choice.

4.88 Gear set and install kit by Yukon for D30 = $320
4.88 Gear Set and install kit by Yukon for 8.8 = $350
Super 30 kit by Blue Torch = $800
E Locker By Eaton = $800
Total in parts only is $2270 (plus fluids).
That only leaves about $430 in labor to install.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:03 PM   #7
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I guess what I'm really asking is how good is a limited slip rear in conjunction with a locked front versus a locked front and rear?
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:09 PM   #8
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I would buy a set of locked and geared 1tons for 3k and use the extra cash towards tires. Thats a lottttt of money on that.

What are your tire size/wheling goals?
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:13 PM   #9
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I'm running spring over and 3" of spring lift for a total of 8.5" to 9" of lift on 35's
Wheeling will include The rubicon, Fordice and Barrett's lake, but I will be driving it there and back.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:18 PM   #10
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The quote I got was from West Coast Differentials.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:29 PM   #11
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My only concern with a fully locked rear end is street manners when it rains or snows, and wear on dry pavement. A locked rear can be a hand full in snow and I still use mine for getting me to the slopes. My LSD has been very well mannered in snow, but has let me down a few times off-road. I guess it depends on what you want to give up compared to what you'll gain.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:44 PM   #12
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35s on a d30 works.. but it isnt ideal. I bet even for that money you can find some geared and locked d44/d44 or go 44/9 if you do fullwidths and you would be miles ahead.


Super or not that d30 still has tiny brakes, tiny balljoints, and a tiny ring and pinion. Especially with 4.88 that is a suoer super small pinion gear

I wheeled for a while with a locked d30 and limited slip 8.8. With 35s It did everything I asked of it. I was still worried about it every trip. Front end got loose quick. Tierod ends, balljoints. It didnt stop great either.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:57 PM   #13
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:25 PM   #14
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:59 AM   #15
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My only concern with a fully locked rear end is street manners when it rains or snows, and wear on dry pavement.
If I put a locker in the rear it will be electric, so no full time lock. I am not changing axles. I just want to beef up what I have a little. I'm not going to play in the bowl at the rubicon. Just mild wheeling. I guess it just comes down to money.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:40 AM   #16
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The best upgrade I ever made to my 91 yj was lockers front and rear. It was rare that I was required to use 4wd with the rear locked. I was not doing any hardcore wheeling, but I was doing old logging roads etc. With the front and rear locked, where I wheeled I was able to do everything whereas other jeeps and 4x4s would get stuck. I went with lunch box lockers as I was in college and did not have a lot of money. My current dd, a Hummer H3 adventure, has electric lockers front and rear. The blizzard of 2010 was no match for the h3. 24" of snow on the roads and I drove through it. If you have never had a locker...you will be shocked by the difference.
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:38 AM   #17
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I have front and rear Eaton E-Lockers in my YJ. Best thing I've ever done to it for offroad mods.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:03 PM   #18
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you mentioned you are doing moderate wheeling, just lock the front save the money
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:10 PM   #19
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I'd throw the selectable in the rear and put a lunchbox up front instead.

As far as the LSD rear locker front, that's what I run. It's a great combo but a locker is always gona be better when you are picking up a tire. That said you could get them to rebuild your LSD with racing clutches that are tighter and put in an f150 spring and that will turn your LSD into a pretty tough version of it's previous self.

Chris has a good point about the d30, but there are lots of guys who do it. You just have to keep up on the maintenance. There is even the crowd of guys running 37s on them and the jk hp30 which is a little different. Biggest concern is the u joints IMO, although with 4.88s the ring and pinion are pretty weak as well. You could probably get them cryo'd, I heard that's not too expensive.

If you have the option I would honestly some tons but it takes a good bit to get them in there too. Sounds like you want to stick with the stock width axles and I think that will work well for you
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:08 PM   #20
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That said you could get them to rebuild your LSD with racing clutches that are tighter and put in an f150 spring and that will turn your LSD into a pretty tough version of it's previous self.
I think this is the way Ill go with an elocker up front.
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:31 PM   #21
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I was going to do it to mine, once I ran the stock LSD for a while. I was really surprised with how well it works in stock form. I can lay rubber down on the pavement for a few feet with mine.

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