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Old 05-23-2007, 06:35 PM   #1
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To much money??

The guys at a local garage said that the clanging in my drive train is from the yoke and yoke flange in the rear. They said parts are worn. Replacing those and a new UV joint will be $550!! Even after that, there may still be something else. Won't know until this is replaced and check for noise. Something clanigng that loud, IMHO, should be obvious when you find it. Shouldn't it?

Is that a fair price?

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Old 05-23-2007, 07:18 PM   #2
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Do you have tools and any skills?
I ask because I would suggest changing the drive shaft u-joints out as that is usually the wear point. they should cost about $15 each. I will take about 2 hours to do the work and that should be worst case. HTH

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Old 05-23-2007, 07:43 PM   #3
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Do you have tools and any skills?
I ask because I would suggest changing the drive shaft u-joints out as that is usually the wear point. they should cost about $15 each. I will take about 2 hours to do the work and that should be worst case. HTH
Yes, I have already changed out the farthest rear UV joint. When I finished, there was a small amount of play still in the yoke. However, I stopped there. Should I just pick up vehicle and replace remaining 3?
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:10 PM   #4
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I would pick it up. Pull the front drive shaft out and then drive it to see if the problem is still there. If it is replace the other rear u-joint. If it goes away once you pull the front, change both the fronts and see if it goes away. Personaly anytime I drop the drive shaft to change a joint I change both. If one is bad chances are they both are close to gone.
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:57 AM   #5
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I would pick it up. Pull the front drive shaft out and then drive it to see if the problem is still there. If it is replace the other rear u-joint. If it goes away once you pull the front, change both the fronts and see if it goes away. Personaly anytime I drop the drive shaft to change a joint I change both. If one is bad chances are they both are close to gone.
So, I can pull the front drive shaft and drive without any damage or leakage? Learn something everyday....
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Old 05-24-2007, 07:14 AM   #6
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I agree with Hackle, if you can do it youself go for it. Thats alot of money being charged for the amount of work involved.
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Old 05-24-2007, 07:26 AM   #7
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I agree with Hackle, if you can do it youself go for it. Thats alot of money being charged for the amount of work involved.
Yea, I can do the UV joints. I am having trouble diagnosing problem, so I took to shop to track problem...
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Old 05-24-2007, 11:16 AM   #8
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If you are going to spend that much, you might as well throw in a SYE.
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Old 05-24-2007, 09:34 PM   #9
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Well, news is in.....the carrier is bad. Evindently, the arsehole who owned the jeep before me had exploded the rear end, patched it and sold it to me. I have to have a new carrier.....DAMN!!!

Lets hear some advise guys and gals
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Old 05-24-2007, 10:46 PM   #10
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does it have a stock dana 35? if so..don't bother..look for a dana 44 from a comanche pu or a cherokee..some of the factory tow packages came with em..or look in a junk yard..or go for an 8.8 swap..the dana 35 is just not worth fixing..take it from me
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Old 05-24-2007, 11:14 PM   #11
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I agree with Fly for the most part but I don't know how you use your YJ or what size mud tires you have. No matter what the answers are I would not waste money installing a locker you will just trash the 35 quicker.
If you drive mostly on the road and when offroad or on road for that matter stay off the skinny pedal and run a max of 33" tires (that size is still on the edge). Make the call. Personaly I would spend the money on a new axle it will cost less in the long run. HTH
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Old 05-25-2007, 07:19 AM   #12
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I agree with Fly for the most part but I don't know how you use your YJ or what size mud tires you have. No matter what the answers are I would not waste money installing a locker you will just trash the 35 quicker.
If you drive mostly on the road and when offroad or on road for that matter stay off the skinny pedal and run a max of 33" tires (that size is still on the edge). Make the call. Personaly I would spend the money on a new axle it will cost less in the long run. HTH

Hackle, I have 31.5 in tires. I would love to build it like some of the rigs I have seen (like yours ;-O ), but I am always thinking about the day I sell it. I don't want to take a beating by loosing money on the upgrades. I definitely like and have planned on lockers at some point, so I don't want to do something that would prevent me from doing that. If I put a 30 in the back, would it fit ok? Would it do ok with a locker. I have to replace the entire rear end due to the carrier and I want to get it right so that I don't reqret what I do now, later.
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Old 05-25-2007, 07:21 AM   #13
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does it have a stock dana 35? if so..don't bother..look for a dana 44 from a comanche pu or a cherokee..some of the factory tow packages came with em..or look in a junk yard..or go for an 8.8 swap..the dana 35 is just not worth fixing..take it from me
Is the 8.8 the beat bang for the buck? I have some mechanical skills, so could I install the 8.8 without much trouble?
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Old 05-25-2007, 08:36 AM   #14
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Shoot him!
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Old 05-25-2007, 11:47 PM   #15
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Iquois, What gear ratio are you running in you rig right now?

For a YJ an 8.8 is VERY simple to install. It's just a matter of cutting off the stock spring perches and shock mounts and welding on new ones that fit your setup.
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Old 05-26-2007, 09:03 AM   #16
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Iquois, What gear ratio are you running in you rig right now?

For a YJ an 8.8 is VERY simple to install. It's just a matter of cutting off the stock spring perches and shock mounts and welding on new ones that fit your setup.
a 3.07 (No wonder i never use fifth gear!!)
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Old 05-26-2007, 12:51 PM   #17
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Ah, with you being at 3.07 then you are going to have a tougher time doing a new rear axle economically compared to fixing your 35. 8.8's come in 3.73 or 4.11 so you'd have to re-gear your front to match.
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Old 05-26-2007, 08:22 PM   #18
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You can always do the rear change over and leave the front drive shaft out until you can regear it. If you keep the jeep you will gear it at some time, this way you only pay for the front gears.
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Old 05-27-2007, 10:43 PM   #19
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DAMN!!! I need a sharp object to dive on!!!
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Old 05-27-2007, 10:54 PM   #20
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Any 8.8 ford rear assembly will fit, correct?
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Old 05-27-2007, 11:37 PM   #21
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Yes it will however you are going to want to make sure you get one from a 96 and up Explorer. They are all 31 spline while the 8.8's that they put in the Ranger and Mustang are 28 spline.
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Old 05-27-2007, 11:42 PM   #22
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Any 8.8 ford rear assembly will fit, correct?
No. You want to look for an axle out of a 95-98 Ford Explorer with disc brakes. They will have either 3.73's or 4.10 gears. It also could have either a Trac-Loc or an open carrier. Try to stay away from other 8.8's out of other Ford vehicles. The width wont be correct and you will have Numerous other problems. Also if you happen to find a DRUM brake Explorer 8.8, most likely it will have 28 spline axle shafts in it. All of the Disc 8.8's will have 31 spline axles. And YES, it will for the most part, bolt right up. You will need a 8.8 1310 pinion flange to put on your rear driveshaft, but those are about 40 bucks, and ALWAYS in stock @ Absolute Ofroad.......

Good Luck, and remember, WE DO THIS FOR FUN!!!!!


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Old 05-28-2007, 10:38 AM   #23
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Good Luck, and remember, WE DO THIS FOR FUN!!!!!


Joe

Just a little discouraged. Weather is way too nice for YJ to be sitting in garage. I have the money for repairs, just think for the $2 grand I have been priced on installing another D35, I can do much better for the money. Would like to get moving in right direction so I can enjoy summer!!

BTW, what spline is in the front differential?
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Old 05-28-2007, 05:14 PM   #24
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$2000 are you kidding? Most people give away the old D35 when they up grade. Swapping an axle is not hard at all you can do it yourself with little trouble. The 8.8 is a great swap you will spend more time finding one then you will installing it and finding them at the junk yards is easy.
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:16 PM   #25
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$2000 are you kidding? Most people give away the old D35 when they up grade. Swapping an axle is not hard at all you can do it yourself with little trouble. The 8.8 is a great swap you will spend more time finding one then you will installing it and finding them at the junk yards is easy.
What would be a fair price for me to expect to pay for a 96 Explorer 8.8? I have been made and offer on one for $300/shipped! Not sure yet about gearing/milage. Going to call tomorrow for more info....
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:26 PM   #26
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What would be a fair price for me to expect to pay for a 96 Explorer 8.8? I have been made and offer on one for $300/shipped! Not sure yet about gearing/milage. Going to call tomorrow for more info....
well....from what i've seen and heard...300 bucks is a pretty good price for an 8.8. i paid 300 for mine out of a '98 exploder. the fellow i bought it off was nice enough to pull it (pull everything! even the emergency brake cable was intact and in working order!) and deliver it to my door.
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:56 PM   #27
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Yeah, 300 is a good deal shipped to your door. Much better than having to pull one yourself for 250 or so.

Oh, and your front Dana 30 has 27 spline shafts stock.
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Old 05-29-2007, 08:07 AM   #28
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Also found a complete rear assembly w/brakes for $660 shipped from Alabama. Has a 3.55 ratio, so figure another $200 for front re-gearing...what cha think? It has a 30 day warranty from day of delivery.
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:03 PM   #29
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Is the $300 dollar one complete? If not you will send the differnece in the two building the cheaper one. Make sure you get the e-brake cables with it as they will work in your Jeep with a little work.
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:44 PM   #30
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Just got a price on a 96 explorer rear end with full set up as far as brakesand 3.55 gearing...shipped to my home for $400. Dude said he would be able to send one with 50,000 - 70,000 miles. It has a 45 day warranty

The $300 rear end I mentioned earlier is complete with disc brakes and has 82,000 miles on it

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