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Old 07-11-2014, 10:05 AM   #1
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Transmission compatability ax5 to the ax15

I have an 87 wrangler had a ax5 and swapped w/ a ax 15. 2-3 gear won't sync tries popping outta gear once in it stays but something isn't right . Any ideas???

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Old 07-11-2014, 10:07 AM   #2
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Oops well anyway could it be the detents?? Which would conclude it's internal and trannys no good?!??

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Old 07-11-2014, 10:42 AM   #3
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Manual transmissions dont have detents. They have synchronizers, and your post is vague. So you had and AX 5 (you have the 2.5l) and you got a new bellhousing, trans (AX 15), transfer case and new driveshafts? And now the AX 15 is slipping out of gear while driving? Sounds like a new or rebuilt tranny is in your future.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:50 AM   #4
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It's confusing me too. Long story short. I owned this jeep, but my ex husband sold it to spite me. So I went to the guy an said how much to buy back 3500. Said he put a diff trans on it. It had a x5 he put on an x15. He's not a mechanic he's an idiot! So honestly I hav no clue. He kept saying he needed to lower the back of tranny 1-2 inches. Wtf! Please help . So many things he fukd up the starter was shot all the teeth were gone , flywheel still good tho. Got new starter installing today along with a new motor craft carb . I really need to understand what he's done. K so if it's the synchronizers does it mean I need a new tranny
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:50 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by AllMudd View Post
Manual transmissions dont have detents. They have synchronizers, and your post is vague. So you had and AX 5 (you have the 2.5l) and you got a new bellhousing, trans (AX 15), transfer case and new driveshafts? And now the AX 15 is slipping out of gear while driving? Sounds like a new or rebuilt tranny is in your future.
They do have detent balls that keep the gears from jumping out on the shift rails so sorry but that's some wrong info. The synchronizers only help to slow down the output set with the input set to shift smoothly.

As for the op, shifting from 2nd to 3rd trouble means that the 3rd gear synchronizer is bad. Also for the gears jumping out, there are little check balls that are under the torx bit plugs on the intermediate plate that are supposed to keep you from jumping out of gear. The springs could be bad, the balls might be worn, or the shift rails are too worn.

Since there could be a good amount of worn parts, you're better off buying a reman tranny and sending yours in as a core.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:51 AM   #6
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4.2
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:55 AM   #7
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What is the core rate on those trannys?
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:55 AM   #8
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4.2
Then yours probably had the Peugeot ba/10 not the ax5. The ax15 is much stronger than the ba/10
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:56 AM   #9
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What is the core rate on those trannys?
About 800-900 plus a $250 core charge you get back after sending in the original
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:58 AM   #10
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Both 2 an 3 hard to find and pop out but once engaged it stays. The granny gear 4&5 are great
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:00 PM   #11
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Is that new or rebuilt price. I found one out here for 600
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:08 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by c5wagner View Post

They do have detent balls that keep the gears from jumping out on the shift rails so sorry but that's some wrong info. The synchronizers only help to slow down the output set with the input set to shift smoothly.

As for the op, shifting from 2nd to 3rd trouble means that the 3rd gear synchronizer is bad. Also for the gears jumping out, there are little check balls that are under the torx bit plugs on the intermediate plate that are supposed to keep you from jumping out of gear. The springs could be bad, the balls might be worn, or the shift rails are too worn.

Since there could be a good amount of worn parts, you're better off buying a reman tranny and sending yours in as a core.
Im sorry I didnt mean to give the qrong info, but I didnt think the check balls you were talking about were detents. So honestly thanks today is a good day I learned something.

To the op please take pics of the trans. We might be able to help identify the trans. So when you go get a new one you get the correct one for whats currently installed. Because like I said before there is a bunch to change when you go from the AX 5 to the AX 15. And lower the trans 1-2"? The only reason this would most likely need to be done is cause there was a loft installed and the rear driveshaft angle is too much causing vibrations, and or now with the AX 15 being longer he might not have done things correctly to adapt everything together.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:22 PM   #13
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Both 2 an 3 hard to find and pop out but once engaged it stays. The granny gear 4&5 are great
Those are the most used gears so they're the ones that wear quickly. No matter what that transmission needs to be rebuilt or replaced. If you can find another one on craigslist or locally then that might be the cheapest route. Taking it to a shop can get pricey if hard parts need to be replaced. Shops usually charge $800-900 of the bat if you pull the tranny and drop it off then it can go up another $300-400 if parts need to be replaced. Even when I rebuilt mine, I spent $400 for the rebuild kit then had to replace 1st/2nd gears and slider and synchro hub and many small parts and it ended up costing $1200 when done. A reman would have been cheaper and easier for me
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:40 PM   #14
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Thank you. You've been the most help. My jeep an I have quite a history. I owned her 5 years, my husband an I separated after 20+ yrs he sold it while I was at work. So a yr later I asked the guy who bought it, if I could buy it back he said yes, I said, Done! Only i paid 1000. More. Lol. My ex laughed at me and said . You just bought yourself a " parts jeep". I think I'm gonna take your advice and get the tranny. I found one for 600. On amazon. But I really wanna take this tranny and open it up and see all these parts you speak of. It's kinda exciting. I'm doing this by self, too! Yes my hands look horrible but I feels fu@king good!. Hope u don't mind, but ur gonna hear a lot from me.:0 ttys.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:44 PM   #15
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Oh ya I wanted to ask wat should I get the ax-5 or ax-15 now?!?
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Old 07-12-2014, 12:59 AM   #16
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Oh ya I wanted to ask wat should I get the ax-5 or ax-15 now?!?
Ax15 for sure. You're original couldn't have been an ax5. If you have the 4.2l motor it would have been a Peugeot ba/10 tranny stock
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Old 07-13-2014, 02:26 AM   #17
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Hey just curious, but look at this pik of the new carburetor I bought. See the fine crack right next to the motor craft stamp. Is that a problem or no?!?

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Old 07-13-2014, 02:48 AM   #18
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Hey just curious, but look at this pik of the new carburetor I bought. See the fine crack right next to the motor craft stamp. Is that a problem or no?!?
Might not be a problem. That's just the fuel bowl under there so the only issue would be fuel evaporating out or the crack spreading. If you got it from somewhere I'd try switching it for another but it may never really be a problem
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Old 07-13-2014, 09:37 AM   #19
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I just can't help but b confused. If the org. Tranny for 87 wrg 4.2 was the Peugeot BA/10. Then how could the guy who changed the tranny put a ax/15 on it. Perhaps the org was already swapped for a Ax5. Because they don't look comparable. Maybe I over think to much. I really need help so I can buy the correct one.

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Old 07-13-2014, 09:42 AM   #20
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I'm a little embarrassed. Reading the small print I think I found my answer. Maybe my ? Should be, wen swapping trannys like this, what other parts are needed besides the tranny itself to make it work right? Does that make at sence?
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:03 PM   #21
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I'm a little embarrassed. Reading the small print I think I found my answer. Maybe my ? Should be, wen swapping trannys like this, what other parts are needed besides the tranny itself to make it work right? Does that make at sence?
I wish you'd take a picture of the transmission you have now lol.

If you found an ax15 from a 89 to 91 wrangler, that would be the easiest, the pilot bearing would need an adapter for later model ax15's. You'd be better off finding a flywheel from an 89 or 90 4.2l as well along with starter. The transfer cases for an ax-15 also have a different spline count than the ba/10 and ax5 so that would need to be addressed. If the transmission is coming out then finding the bellhousing and bearing retainer from a post 1994 ax15 would be nice for external slave but is optional. A new clutch kit for the new flywheel year is also necessary.

Luckily mine was the cutoff year between the ax15 and ba/10 so getting rid of the ba/10 was very easy and all I needed was a transmission and transfer case and clutch kit
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:42 PM   #22
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Just put a new starter in. I'll take a pik today and send it. Ya cause I need some serious help. Ty so much
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:51 PM   #23
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Wen I bought jeep back the guy who had it just went nuts with the tranny he found I don't think he thought of all other things he'd need for starters" no pun intended. Lol the starter was engaging then within about 10 turn overs it just shrieked. Took off starter and all it's teeth were gone. Luckily the flywheel was still in top shape. I replaced that a probably 2 yrs ago right before it was sold. So that tells me wen he did tranny nothing was lining up. Anyway finishing installing the carb today an we'll see if she starts fingers crossed
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:03 AM   #24
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Hey c5wagner help pleAse starter issues aftr replace new carb starter she started up like a beauty then today I went to start her and the starter just squills
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:57 AM   #25
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Hey c5wagner help pleAse starter issues aftr replace new carb starter she started up like a beauty then today I went to start her and the starter just squills
Pretty vague but sounds like low battery voltage. Any more info you can give? Like is the engine turning over but doesn't start, or is the starter just making noise and not working? It's really difficult to give advice over a forum for something that'd I'd easily trace in person in a matter of minutes haha
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:37 AM   #26
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Please take a pic of that transmission, you can even send it to my phone and ill post it here.
I tend to stay away from carburetors, spent too much time rebuilding them in the 90s (mostly GM, as I refused to work on Fords)....
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:55 AM   #27
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Please take a pic of that transmission, you can even send it to my phone and ill post it here.
I tend to stay away from carburetors, spent too much time rebuilding them in the 90s (mostly GM, as I refused to work on Fords)....
I'm still rebuilding carburetors as a personal side job. Don't understand why you didn't do Fords since they're the quickest to rebuild and easy money. Fuel injection is much better and I'm working on getting mine fuel injected, just can't figure out how I want to do that yet. I'm not too much of a howell fan as my engine is too built for that kit.
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:00 PM   #28
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I'm still rebuilding carburetors as a personal side job. Don't understand why you didn't do Fords since they're the quickest to rebuild and easy money. Fuel injection is much better and I'm working on getting mine fuel injected, just can't figure out how I want to do that yet. I'm not too much of a howell fan as my engine is too built for that kit.
Variable Venturi.....

That is all....
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:19 PM   #29
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Variable Venturi.....

That is all....
True, I've only had one guy bring me one of those and I convinced him to swap it out for a holley 2300 I had on hand. Still not the worst carburetor out there. Late model carters have that pretty well, like the jeep 2bbl and the not built to last thermoquad that almost always has a cracked or warped body
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:26 PM   #30
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True, I've only had one guy bring me one of those and I convinced him to swap it out for a holley 2300 I had on hand. Still not the worst carburetor out there. Late model carters have that pretty well, like the jeep 2bbl and the not built to last thermoquad that almost always has a cracked or warped body
Yes, Thermoquads were fun too.

Here in Cali, it had to be stock (variable Venturi or Thermoquad included), or an approved replacement, like the Edelbrock units available now.
Back when I was rebuilding them, those fancy Edelbrock units were not approved racing models.
Also, EFI kits nowadays are so plentiful, and so smog legal, and cure SO MANY issues, why not spend a little more now, and end up with a better running vehicle with YEARS of improved everything over rebuilding a carb every 2 years to appease Governor Moonbeam?

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