Wiped all water off the floor on drivers side ( wasn't much ), after it was all dry I put a piece of poster board above the floor from the seat up to under the gas pedal and from one side to the other of the drivers side.
I check it every 15 minutes or so hoping to see water drips so at least I have a starting point on the water source.
Checked two times and saw no water drips on the paper.
Pulled the paper and underneath a small puddle of water.
No water trails down the firewall ..... so it did not sneak under the paper that way.
Looked to the left, and I found the source of water. It seems to be coming in along the seam of the cowl to the body, entering the body ad dripping down.
I did a " field repair " to test out what I think is happening with metal duct tape.
I will be posting pics shortly ........ ( more to come )
Any ideas on how to properly attack this issue ?????
My ' field rigging ' sense tells me to slather a bead of 'seam sealer' across the seam below the windshield, but common sense tells me that is not the way to go.
Could be either. Look for a void in the seam sealer between the horizontal and vertical cown panels. While you are at it, check the other seams around that area. If there is a void, mask off the area, leaving about 3/16" to 1/4" and squish in a dollop of seam sealer or urethane caulk. Promptly pull the masking tape off and smooth out the edges with your finger. A rubber glove is handy to keep your fingers clean. Touch up with the color of your Jeep.
If there is no void or noticable crack, then the next area to check is the windshield frame gasket. This is a bigger job because you have to disconnect your top at the windshield frame and remove the sport bar struts where they connect to the top of the windshield frame. Fold the w/s frame foreward and seal the gasket, top & bottom. Better yet is replace the gasket.
A third possibility is a rotted windshield frame. If you have rust bubbling out from under the seal around the windshield glass, this is a distinct possibility. Windshield technicians are nortorious for not properly sealing the cuts in the paint when they cut the old cracked windshield out for replacement. The cuts start to rust and once the rust is through, you get leaks. My Jeep is an original Colorado Jeep and the only rust it had was where the windshield frame was rusted due to the above stated reason.
If you have to replace the windshield frame to cowl gasket, search the forum for DREDnots invention to easily pull the windshield frame back into position.
Either one will work. I used the 1st one when I replaced mine. Not a hard job. Worst part is getting the torx bolts out of sport bar and hinge. Make sure you put some pb blaster on them prior to removal. I had one strip out and had to drill and extract bolt. Put anti seize on bolts before you put back together. Took me and a buddy a little over an hour.
I have that same leak to the left near the e brake. Comes through that seam where you put the duct tape. I used a bit of clear silicone. Took me a while to find that leak!
Yeah, that wasn't me with the ratchet strap fixture.
I would clean that cowl seam where your duct tape was and run a small bead of clear RTV.
And then do the Cowl-to-windshield seal. They usually fit like something aint right but that's just the BS way the repros are molded.
Thanks for that image ..... it shows me how easy it 'should' be.
I have a hard top and it looks like a few bolts at top of windshield to hard top holding the top in place along with bolts into body on both sides in the back.
Remove those to 'release' the hard top, then remove the lower torx bolt from the plates at bottom of windshield ...... then windshield should fold forward.
Am I missing anything at this point ???????
Next clean out the mess and prepare for the new gasket.
When installing new gasket, should I use any adhesives/sealants ..... or just the gasket?????
NOTE: Since I am in this deep I will be ordering all new rubber for the windshield to include .......
Windshield to Cowl Gasket
Windshield Seal Kit ( includes windshield seal / reveal moulding )
Hard Top To Windshield Gasket/Seal
I just did this to mine. Removed all the hardtop mounting hardware, reinstalled the two rear bolts, slid a scrap of inch and a half pvc pipe between the rollbar and top. Plenty of room to fold the w/s.
I assume these are what you are talking about ..........
[/url]
QUESTION: Clearly I can understand why the ones going into the windshield need to come out ...... Why the need to remove the one from the back of the roll bar???
Yeah, the "spreader bars". They called them "sport bars" in the owners manual, I believe.
You don't have to remove them, but you will probably need to loosen the rear bolt so it goes back together easier. They usually have some tension in them when you take the front bolts out, it will spring a bit and with the new gaskets it will be noticeable.
Thanks ...... I'll loosen the back ones first then remove the fronts.
Since I am planning on installing new windshield seals ...... would it be wise to remove the windshield ...... then do the cowl gasket .... put it all back together and they last step reinstall the windshield ???
Seems like that may be wise thing to do ...... prevents cracking of windshield by not having it in when pushing things around.
I'm gonna be an expert on this job, thanks to you and others, before the parts get here next week!!!!!
Nothing beats having the knowledge for the job BEFORE the job gets started !!!
Glad you were able to remove the windshield frame bolts (one at a time). They can be a real problem due to corrosion. Lots of Jeepers complain about stripping out the torx threads in the bolt heads. Be sure to have the correct sized torx bit.
You probably won't have to loosen the bolt at the back of the spreader bar (or sport bar or strut bar as they are also called).
If you have to adjust the windshield angle (probably not) and you don't have a correct sized torx security bit, you can remove the old bolt completly with vice grips (the one on the top of the spreader bar under the padding) and take it to your hardware or auto supply store and get the same sized hex head bolts and a couple of washers.
I wouldn't bother with the windshield glass seals until you have taken care of the caulking and the windshield frame to cowl panel gasket and the topper gasket.
If you still have a leak, check your work. If you still have a leak after you check your work, then call a glass company for a new windshield. It is better to have a pro remove and replace (R&R) your windshield than go through the learning curve. If they get the old one out without breaking it, you can save it or sell it. A new windshield should be $125.00 to $150.00. My insurance company gives me one new windshield a year without a deductable. With the windshield out, check all over for any sign of rust and if you find any, cure it before installing the new windshield.
Good Luck, L.M.
P.S. The windshield frame to topper gasket is a 3 piece seal on my Jeep. One long strip plus a Left and a Right corner piece.
No doubt I am having my favorite glass shop do the job.
He's good at removing and reinstalling the old windshield without breakage.
If I had the tools he had, I'd be good at it too!
At this point I am having it done not so much because it leaked or did not leak but because it is clear to me the previous owner did the windshield himself and this one was his first !!
So I went and did the Cowl Seal replacement - afraid of what I might find lurking beneath. WOW when I lowered the windshield I was SHOCKED at how clean it was. Clearly there was no water leaking through the Cowl Seal.
I started poking around the seams and WOW .... did I find a void in the sealant .... huge void so I am confident I found the leak.
Oh and by the way .......
COWL SEAL REPLACEMENT:
I did the entire job singlehandedly. I took into consideration all of the advice before taking on that task. Once I had the new seal on and went to raise the windshield, I knew exactly what had to be done in order to make it a one man job. No I did not do the 2 X 6 limber and eye hook trick .... that would have taken time and money.
I decided to use what I had on hand and it went quickly.
Note that I left my "spreader bars " in place, did not loosen any bolts associated with them other that the two that held the windshield in place.
Those "spreader bars " are instrumental to my method.
I used what are known as " bar clamps ". I place in end over the lower screw hold of the spreader bar and the other end over the spot on the windshield from associated with that same screw.
I did this on both sides of the windshield and began to tighten the clamps, alternating between sides so as to bring it up evenly.
As I tightened the clamps I observed the bolt holes in the brace at the bottom of the windshield frame and at the spreader bars.
Once I had them in range and aligned I began installing them. First the brace bolts than one spreader bar bolt on each side.
I then tightened the clamps a little more until I had enough of the one spreader bar bolt in.
I then removed the clamps .... installed remaining screws and tighten everything down.
I think it actually took more time for me to type this post than it did to raise the windshield and tighten it all up!!!!
It's the seam under the silver duct tape in this image .......
The gap was actually in the seam below the end of the tape.
]
I was advised by someone who hates water in his Jeep and never has any to poke into that seam with a thin bladed tool like a scraper/spatula.
I did this and some of the seam sealer the factory put in place long ago came out in pieces.
I decided to go it on further and poked around the entire seam on both sides and under the windshield. I found only one break in the seal on the drivers side and it ended up being HUGE ..... it was like 1 1/2" in length.
Once I was convinced I had the seam cleaned out of any old stuff that was going to come out and cleaned it out with solvent I set out to reseal the seam.
I used 3M Flexclear 08405 Seam Sealer to do the job.
This stuff is nasty but does a fantastic job. Strong headache causing vapor. It sticks to everything with a vengeance.
It is clear and paintable.
Solvents used for cleanup are XYLENE or TOLUENE. I've tried other solvents but they don't work well at all. With XYLENE I am able to clean off any dried stuff that I mistakenly put on the vehicle because I touched it with the sealer on my glove.
I wish I had a dollar for every time my leg got wet from dripping water. I'd be rich.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ask a question
Ask a question
Jeep Wrangler Forum
9M posts
468K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Jeep Wrangler owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about reviews, performance, trail riding, gear, suspension, tires, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, for all JL, JT, JK, TJ, YJ, and CJ models!