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Old 02-12-2013, 08:43 PM   #5971
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Started the replacement of my drivers side floor pan. Got the old pan cut out and must of the trim work done on the replacement. Tomorrow night I hope to finish the fitting and tack weld in place.

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Old 02-12-2013, 09:04 PM   #5972
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Here's a small write-up for my lift I put on the YJ last night. I'm cross-posting this from another forum so those of you that know about this already, please bear with me.... 8)

So here I go again. I put my new lift kit on my YJ last night. It's a Rough Country 4" lift kit that comes with EVERYTHING needed to lift the Jeep. I'm talking springs, shocks, relocation brackets, transfer case drop kit and all applicable hardware to boot. I also opted to add 1" lift boomerang shackles in the front and rear. The rear ones are Rugged Ridge and the front ones are cut out of 3/8" plate that a guy sells on ebay for just over 20 bux a set (4 plates, you supply the bolts). I like the aggressive angle they have. The install was by the numbers for the most part, tho I kinda did it all backwards from the instructions as they start with the front and go to the back and I started in the back and went forward. Still, it wasn't hard at all, just a little time consuming. The paperwork says the full kit can be installed in 8 hours (I'm assuming that's using power tools). Since I used all armstrong (and back) tools and a torque wrench, it took me a little longer doing it all by myself. I also removed my rear bumper/tire carrier assembly just to make it easier to get to the rear shackles which added a little time as well but was worth the effort. All in all, in a little over 10 hours time I got everything installed. I didn't picture hound this one like I usually do but still, here's what I did take...

Here is the lift kit...


Flat factory springs...






These are the Rugged Ridge boomerang shackles I put out back.



Not flat springs...



The front shackles.



The new ride hight.







After cycling the suspension and properly torquing everything where it needs to be she rides like a dream now! I can't wait to get her out on the trail and see what she can do now...

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Old 02-12-2013, 09:50 PM   #5973
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looks great, sorry to hear you had to do it by yourself tho.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:19 PM   #5974
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Looks good zombie, yeah doing these by yourself is not as much fun. When I did mine, had a buddy help out, much easier with 2 people. I had a bitch of a time getting the OE pitman arm off, broke 1 puller trying to get it off. We had to use a 6' steel pole as leverage to finally get it to budge

Did you extend the break lines as well?
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:45 PM   #5975
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Keep an eye on those shocks. RC shocks are junk, I have a couple buddies, and have read all about them wearing out after a couple thousand miles.

Also, just so you are aware, the factory springs were flat from the factory

Looks good though. PLEASE tell me you will be removing the front and rear track bars. They will do nothing but harm your suspension, binding it up, keeping you from gaining any flex whatsoever. That's why you lifted it right? To get more flex, because that's honestly the only reason to lift. More ground clearance, but more importantly more flex
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:48 AM   #5976
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I didn't mind doing it by myself, I enjoy doing this stuff. I will keep an eye on the shocks, thanks for the info. With this being my daily driver how would that be affected if I took the track bars off? Would it make a difference on the interstate? Yes, I want her to be more flexy.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:06 AM   #5977
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Quote:
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Keep an eye on those shocks. RC shocks are junk, I have a couple buddies, and have read all about them wearing out after a couple thousand miles.

Also, just so you are aware, the factory springs were flat from the factory

Looks good though. PLEASE tell me you will be removing the front and rear track bars. They will do nothing but harm your suspension, binding it up, keeping you from gaining any flex whatsoever. That's why you lifted it right? To get more flex, because that's honestly the only reason to lift. More ground clearance, but more importantly more flex
X2
And removing the track bars will improve ride quality. You MIGHT be able to get away without a sway bar as well since you have firmer lift springs. I would do the track bars and drive it for a few days to get used to it. It will be nicer. Then after you are used to that pull the swaybar and see how it handles. All you need to do is go about 15-20 mph and swerve a little bit. If it gets squirley then put it back on. The faster you are going the worst it gets. If you need to keep it on you will need swaybar discos of course to get that nice flex you are after. with my setup if I were to run without a swaybar I would be dead in a week on the highway somewhere. I know with lift kits those firmer springs let you get away with it sometimes though.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:14 AM   #5978
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Cool, I'll take em out tonight before going out and see how she does.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:11 AM   #5979
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I will recommend keeping the swaybar in place, but installing a pair of quick disconnects. Gives you the firm front end you need for every day road driving, but lets you disconnect fully for offroading.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:38 AM   #5980
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Write up on installation?
Done

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/spar...gh-219123.html
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:53 AM   #5981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress
I will recommend keeping the swaybar in place, but installing a pair of quick disconnects. Gives you the firm front end you need for every day road driving, but lets you disconnect fully for offroading.
I've run without a sway bar for about a year now, no issues. So the disconnects are not really needed
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:57 AM   #5982
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I will recommend keeping the swaybar in place, but installing a pair of quick disconnects. Gives you the firm front end you need for every day road driving, but lets you disconnect fully for offroading.
X2. Anyone hurtling down the hiway at 60 - 65 mph without sways is just an accident waiting to happen. Irresponsible.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:01 PM   #5983
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X2. Anyone hurtling down the hiway at 60 - 65 mph without sways is just an accident waiting to happen. Irresponsible.
I have them because I would wreck all day long. But I have argued with guys more times than I can count who dont run them and have no problems. It depends on the springs. That is why I tell people to test it at about 10-20 mph. If you wreck going that slow you shouldnt be driving anyway. I also think the higher your lift the easier you can get away without them since the springs are harder.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:06 PM   #5984
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X2. Anyone hurtling down the hiway at 60 - 65 mph without sways is just an accident waiting to happen. Irresponsible.
I've never gotten in an accident, I also have detroits, which also cause horrific-everybody-dies accidents too, guess I'm super irresponsible
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:07 PM   #5985
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Originally Posted by OverkillYJ

I have them because I would wreck all day long. But I have argued with guys more times than I can count who dont run them and have no problems. It depends on the springs. That is why I tell people to test it at about 10-20 mph. If you wreck going that slow you shouldnt be driving anyway. I also think the higher your lift the easier you can get away without them since the springs are harder.
Il agree with this, I have BDS springs on mine, no issues
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:09 PM   #5986
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Originally Posted by darkproximity

I've never gotten in an accident, I also have detroits, which also cause horrific-everybody-dies accidents too, guess I'm super irresponsible
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:11 PM   #5987
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First round or pb blaster to my leafs and u bolts today in prep for the lift. Not sure when it will happen, but I want it to go smoothly.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:55 PM   #5988
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First round or pb blaster to my leafs and u bolts today in prep for the lift. Not sure when it will happen, but I want it to go smoothly.
Make sure you get it into the metal tube that runs through the bushing as well. That is usually the biggest problem spot. The bolt rusts to that metal sleeve and cant come out without being cut.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:16 PM   #5989
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Make sure you get it into the metal tube that runs through the bushing as well. That is usually the biggest problem spot. The bolt rusts to that metal sleeve and cant come out without being cut.
That what mine did. I had to cut all the bolts that went through my frame. Sucked
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:55 PM   #5990
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That what mine did. I had to cut all the bolts that went through my frame. Sucked
Same here. And the spots you need to cut tear up cutting disks pretty damn fast.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:07 PM   #5991
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Make sure you get it into the metal tube that runs through the bushing as well. That is usually the biggest problem spot. The bolt rusts to that metal sleeve and cant come out without being cut.
I soaked the whole things down pretty well. Got the bushings, nuts, trac bar, sway bar links and u bolts. I'm hoping pre soaking combined with my impact will make short work and not need to run around getting new bolts.

Still need to build some shackles for the rear most likely but will see when the time comes. Can't wait

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Old 02-13-2013, 03:14 PM   #5992
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I took about a mile of wire out of the rig today. between all the radio stuff and lines the PO ran for lights that I'm not using it was quite the pile of wire and plastic sleeves.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:22 PM   #5993
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I soaked the whole things down pretty well. Got the bushings, nuts, trac bar, sway bar links and u bolts. I'm hoping pre soaking combined with my impact will make short work and not need to run around getting new bolts.

Still need to build some shackles for the rear most likely but will see when the time comes. Can't wait

Well you have the same year I do with more miles, and live somewhere that it snows quite a bit more. I would say buy yourself some greasable bolts now. You will be cutting at lease a few. 600lb Impact didnt make a difference for me on some of them.

Greasable Bolts
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:31 PM   #5994
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For sure. Worst case, break out the pipe on the ratchet. I do hate dealing with Illinois cars, but luckily this jeep is very clean as the po garage stored it. The frame barely has any surface rust and the body is nearly spotless as well. Maybe I'll give some of the bolts a try the day before to see what else I may need to round up.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:32 PM   #5995
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I am in the market to put my lift on. My bolts do not seem rusted at all, but we will see.
My question is ... what does cutting off the bolts do ?
If you can't get the nut off, and can't get the bolt head to turn...
you cut off both ends ? then what ? you have a bolt staft stuck in a bushing. At least before you had something pound on to drive it out the other side ... or am I missing a key point here ??
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:56 PM   #5996
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if your replacing springs who cares if there is a bolt stuck in the bushing your not reusing the spring
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:59 PM   #5997
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I am in the market to put my lift on. My bolts do not seem rusted at all, but we will see.
My question is ... what does cutting off the bolts do ?
If you can't get the nut off, and can't get the bolt head to turn...
you cut off both ends ? then what ? you have a bolt staft stuck in a bushing. At least before you had something pound on to drive it out the other side ... or am I missing a key point here ??
What happens is the bolt will spin and you will get the nut off but it wont slide out of the spring. You can turn them all day long and you wont get anywhere. I had 3-4 like that on mine with hardly any rust. The only way to get them was to cut. I hit them with a sledgehammer and everything. You cut between the spring and the sring mount on the frame. Cut both sides and the spring drops out. If you still want to sell the old springs or something you just get new bushings.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:37 PM   #5998
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OK, gotcha. So you don't actually ever get the shaft out of the bushing in order to remove it. Now I understand. Thanks Guys !
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:58 PM   #5999
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I had one spring try to do that to me but with generous amounts of PB Blaster and a BFH I broke it loose. Once I got it to spin inside the spring I was able to twist it back and forth with a wrench while pulling outward on the bolt at the same time.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:07 PM   #6000
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I have 35" cepek mud countries on now and considering trading for some 33's to save the rear end and get more oomf... thoughts?

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