As my build comes to an...."end".... I'm finishing the body work and getting ready to paint. I usually just go grab some acrylic enamel and shoot it on from the sketchy local paint place, but I actually put a lot of work into this particular jeep and want to do a base coat clear coat. So my question is where do you get your paint, Napa? As I said before my local paint and body shop has done a terrible job matching colors in the past and I'd like to go somewhere else.
The VIN method is often unreliable and I have personally seen it go wrong in paint that I have purchased, what the VIN is good for is determining the actual name of the color then cross referencing that with the various manufacturer paint codes.
A jeep build never comes to an end....lol...just got mine back from the paint shop and I scared 1k to death on primer, paint and clear coat. Turned out great...pretty sure they used PPG paint....260 a gallon for base and 360 a gallon for the clear...just looked at my invoice.
Most NAPAs and Sherwin Williams stores sell automotive paint. Personally, I prefer PPG paint. All the major brands will be of similar quality. Urethane enamel is more durable than plain acrylic enamel.
IMPORTANT!! Make certain to use the same brand primer, paint clearcoat and hardener all the way through. Solvents aren't as critical but why not use the same brand solvent too. Each paint manufacturer has a slightly different formula for their paint and you could end up with intercoat adhesion problems by mixing brands. If a bodyshop tells you it doesn't matter, find a better shop.
If you have already primed the repaired areas, you (or the paint shop) need to use a sealer before the color coat.
I spent around a Grand for the materials to do my Jeep-paint, primer, hardener and thinner. No clear coat.
What paint would you suggest? I'm not quite willing to spend a grand on it since I will still use it as a jeep. I would like to jeep it around $400 If I can't I'll just get the typical acrylic enamel. I haven't done any paint or primer yet, just got the da sander and bondo out today.
I should add that I'm only painting the outside of the tub and outside of the windshield frame. I've got monstaliner for inside the tub and a set of tube fenders for the front. So I should deffinilly not need more than a gallon right?
Gallon should do it....I did the firewall, regular fenders..inside and out, tailgate and the roll bars. Plus the body and a gallon was used. I didn't do the grill as it was line xed.
Regular acrylic enamel will be cheaper than urethane enamel. Beyond that, don't cheap out on your materials. Cheap stuff is cheaper for a reason.
Most paint companies have the good stuff and the economy stuff. I strongly suggest you go with the good stuff, even if it takes you a bit longer to save up the extra money.
Again, stay within brands for your primer, sealer, paint and hardener (catalyst).
If you buy your primer, catalyst and thinner for the primer now, you can be saving up for the better paint as you complete the bondo work and priming.
Three quarts might do it for you, but a gallon will certainly be enough and will probably cost the same as three quarts. If you decide on three quarts, have the paint company put it in a gallon can rather than three individual quart cans. Ask about price.
In order to save some money, you might ask about tinted primer. If your paint company can make up dark blue tinted primer, then three quarts could be enough.
Be absolutely certain to measure accurately!! Go by Walmart and get a large glass measuring cup and use it to measure your catalyst and thinner.
Don't sneak into the kitchen to snag the measuring cup your wife uses. Even if you clean it well, you don't want to eat a cake that was measured in a measuring cup that had the poisonous stuff that you sprayed on your Jeep.
Another thing to not cheap out on is your paint mask. The best paint mask is a full face, supplied air mask. These aren't practical for most home paint shops.
The least mask I would use is a mask that your paint company will have. It has replaceable filtering cartridges designed for painting with hazardous materials. Use it for priming and painting. A plain old dust mask will allow the poisonous stuff into your lungs.
Many home paint jobs turn out great. The key is to take your time. Spend the extra few minutes (or hours) to make sure every square inch of gloss is gone.
Paint adheres for two reasons. Mechanical adhesion (sanding) and chemical adhesion (the sticky stuff the manufacturer puts in the paint). In order for the paint to not peel and flake it needs both. The really important places that many home paint Jeepers don't pay enough attention to are the inside edges of the grill bars and the edges of the hood, door and tailgate hinges.
Of course for the best paint job you will remove all the trim, like door handles, windshield frame to cowl seal, all the lights and soft top retainers.
Don't be afraid to ask for advice. There is a whole lot that goes into a body & paint job.
Regular acrylic enamel will be cheaper than urethane enamel. Beyond that, don't cheap out on your materials. Cheap stuff is cheaper for a reason.
Most paint companies have the good stuff and the economy stuff. I strongly suggest you go with the good stuff, even if it takes you a bit longer to save up the extra money.
Again, stay within brands for your primer, sealer, paint and hardener (catalyst).
If you buy your primer, catalyst and thinner for the primer now, you can be saving up for the better paint as you complete the bondo work and priming.
Three quarts might do it for you, but a gallon will certainly be enough and will probably cost the same as three quarts. If you decide on three quarts, have the paint company put it in a gallon can rather than three individual quart cans. Ask about price.
In order to save some money, you might ask about tinted primer. If your paint company can make up dark blue tinted primer, then three quarts could be enough.
Be absolutely certain to measure accurately!! Go by Walmart and get a large glass measuring cup and use it to measure your catalyst and thinner.
Don't sneak into the kitchen to snag the measuring cup your wife uses. Even if you clean it well, you don't want to eat a cake that was measured in a measuring cup that had the poisonous stuff that you sprayed on your Jeep.
Another thing to not cheap out on is your paint mask. The best paint mask is a full face, supplied air mask. These aren't practical for most home paint shops.
The least mask I would use is a mask that your paint company will have. It has replaceable filtering cartridges designed for painting with hazardous materials. Use it for priming and painting. A plain old dust mask will allow the poisonous stuff into your lungs.
Many home paint jobs turn out great. The key is to take your time. Spend the extra few minutes (or hours) to make sure every square inch of gloss is gone.
Paint adheres for two reasons. Mechanical adhesion (sanding) and chemical adhesion (the sticky stuff the manufacturer puts in the paint). In order for the paint to not peel and flake it needs both. The really important places that many home paint Jeepers don't pay enough attention to are the inside edges of the grill bars and the edges of the hood, door and tailgate hinges.
Of course for the best paint job you will remove all the trim, like door handles, windshield frame to cowl seal, all the lights and soft top retainers.
Don't be afraid to ask for advice. There is a whole lot that goes into a body & paint job.
Oh yes I'm familiar with all the painting. I'm replacing rocker panels and fenders up here it seems yearly up here in the rust belt. I just was unsure how much I would need to do a whole jeep as I've never painted that much.
The paint store quoted me 310 for base coat clear coat and 120 for the primer so I think that's what I'll be doing.
I think its from back in the 80s when those cheap Taiwan body panels were becoming popular and everyone could go to a warehouse and buy them. You didn't have any bodyworking skills but you had a few wrenches and a hundred dollars and could bolt on some skins. But they were all black primer and you couldn't afford to paint your $600 shitbox so you just drove it around with the black fender till it died with one rusty black fender.
So, yeah, even though they are "powder coated" black, it (to me at least) screams "half assed". But I feel the same way about sagging pants and flat brimmed hats with the stickers still on them. So, that's just me.
You left off the part about the license plate rattling from the bass because you have 3 grand worth of stereo equipment in 1500 car....I was young was young once too...lol
when I see multi colored panels just makes me think of the ricers of the late 90s. Just get some decals written in Japanese and a coffee can fart tip exhaust to complete the look lol
I've never heard so much resistance against black tube fenders... That's what color they're supposed to be. How that can resemble a ricer is beyond me.
I don't think I've even seen a set of tube fenders not black.
I'm going to have to paint them black just to spite you old farts! LOL
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