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Old 08-24-2013, 05:29 PM   #1
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YJ Lift Fail, need a shop in Columbus, GA

I tried but failed to install a BDS 2" lift on my 1994 YJ today. Long story short, too many rusty bolts that I'm not well equipped enough to deal with.

The left side rear spring frame mount bolt never budged. Got the nut off okay, but even after several soaks with PB blaster (couple times over the last few days) and several long shots with my (electric) impact wrench, never got the bolt to budge or even rotate AT ALL. Shocks came off okay, track bar was troublesome but got it loose.

Anyway, assuming that the other 3 frame/spring bolts (and others) were likely to be as bad, I put things back together with the old springs. Never touched the front.

I've decided to punt and try to find a good shop that's better equipped to deal with stubborn bolts than I am.

Can anyone recommend a good shop that knows Jeeps in the Columbus, GA area?

David

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Old 08-24-2013, 06:08 PM   #2
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Try a large wrench and maybe a cheater bar, that should break the nuts loose that your impact won't

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Old 08-24-2013, 06:33 PM   #3
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Sawzall may be your only choice. Cut the bolt on the inside of each spring mount. You will have to cut on each side.
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:34 PM   #4
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cutting the bolts with a 4" grinder with zip blade will work, then just buy new bolts, i assume you already have new shackles as you need longer ones for the military wrap on BDS springs.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:21 PM   #5
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A grinder and a saw's all are a very inexpensive, and a very useful must have for any restoration or modification project.
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:04 PM   #6
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x2 on the cheater bar. Just got finished changing out all four springs. Didn't go as smooth as I'd hope it would. But just glad it is done. If you can just get enough leverage to get it to move even a little, the impact will do the rest. Did springs and shackles a little at a time over a 3 day period.
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:47 PM   #7
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When I did my lift I had to cut the bolts on either side of the spring between the leaf spring mounts. I then went to my local Ace Hardware and bought all new stuff. Grab a sawzall and go to town man. haha
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Old 08-25-2013, 12:58 AM   #8
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exhaust shop on victory dr does a LOT of off road stuff, cant think of the name right off my head. will let you know when i get the name
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:19 AM   #9
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Torch them off!!!
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:11 PM   #10
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Okay, sounds like having trouble with the frame/spring bolts isn't just because mine is especially bad. I may pick up some replacement bolts and give it another shot next weekend. No torch, but I've got a sawzall.

I did get new shackles with the kit. Makes the stock ones look pitiful.

Still wouldn't mind hearing the name of the recommended shop on Victory Dr, for future reference.

Thanks, guys.

David
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:25 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by rushtone View Post
Okay, sounds like having trouble with the frame/spring bolts isn't just because mine is especially bad. I may pick up some replacement bolts and give it another shot next weekend. No torch, but I've got a sawzall.

I did get new shackles with the kit. Makes the stock ones look pitiful.

Still wouldn't mind hearing the name of the recommended shop on Victory Dr, for future reference.

Thanks, guys.

David
David do yourself a favor and grab 2 search and rescue blades for the sawzall. Theyll cut through anything.
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:38 AM   #12
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David do yourself a favor and grab 2 search and rescue blades for the sawzall. Theyll cut through anything.
I've been going at the first side of the first bolt with a metal-cutting sawzall blade for at least 20 minutes with no clear sign of progress other than the smell of burned rubber. On about the 4th blade so far. Once I run through everything I've got I'll try Lowe's and HD for the S&R blades. Thanks for the tip.

Anybody suggest a cutting torch that I could get at either of those places, and that someone with no experience with them could use?

David
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:53 AM   #13
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A 4 1/2" angle grinder with cutoff wheels will do the job on them bolt's. You can probably rent one from Home Depot.
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:58 AM   #14
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A 4 1/2" angle grinder with cutoff wheels will do the job on them bolt's. You can probably rent one from Home Depot.
Oh yeah, I'll check that out as well. Thanks.

David
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:31 AM   #15
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When running your sawsall, slow the speed down. If you are smelling burnt rubber you are going to fast with the blade and burning it up. Once the blade is burnt it will not cut right. Slow and easy with some splay lube such as wd40 or pb blaster will help as well.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:37 PM   #16
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Springs are off!

Didn't find any S&R blades at Home Depot (or "Fire and Rescue" blades that I saw on Amazon).

But I did pick up a Milwaukee 4.5" angle grinder and some cutoff wheels.

Oh. My. Gawd. Got more done in 2 minutes with that than half an hour with the Sawzall (but thanks for the tip on technique, I was going full blast).

Rear springs are both off! Frame hanger bolts on both sides were just as stubborn, but no match for the grinder's cutoff blades (type 27, whatever that means).

Do I have to lower the tank to get upper shackle bolts out? Nuts came off easily with the impact wrench, but the upper bolts hit the tank before coming out. Or maybe cut 'em off with my new best friend? Although not sure I could get it in there.

David
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:42 PM   #17
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Easiest to cut them and put new one's in where the nut is on the tank side for future ease.
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:04 PM   #18
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Easiest to cut them and put new one's in where the nut is on the tank side for future ease.
That's what I was thinking. The BDS kit came with all new shackle hardware, so I don't need any of the old parts.

But there's no way I'm getting my angle grinder up in there. Sawzall would be able to poke in there just fine I think, but with the bolt necessarily loose so I have something exposed to cut, it's just going to rattle it around. Hrm....

David
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:14 PM   #19
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put a box wrench on the bolt to hold it.
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:23 PM   #20
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put a box wrench on the bolt to hold it.
Good tip. Took a while on each side with the Sawzall, but I got 'em cut off.

Had to cut off the axle end of the bolt holding the rear track bar, and pick up a replacement for it.

New springs are installed on the rear. Quitting for the evening. Tomorrow I'll throw on the rear shocks and start on the front.

David
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:29 PM   #21
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Your lucky your jeep isn't your daily. When I did my lift and ran into the same issue I had to call off from work the next day cuz the hardware store was closed lol. Took me a total of eight hours over two days.
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:32 PM   #22
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Your lucky your jeep isn't your daily. When I did my lift and ran into the same issue I had to call off from work the next day cuz the hardware store was closed lol. Took me a total of eight hours over two days.
Actually it IS my daily driver (at least for weekdays), so it's got to be on the road by Tuesday (taking advantage of the long weekend). I do have wifemobile to go fetch parts with if she's not using it.

David
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:51 PM   #23
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Nice! I wasn't that fortunate lol
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:08 PM   #24
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It's a lot of work but you''ll be glad you did it yourself in the end.My buddy and i did 2 yj suspension lifts and a body lift one weekend,was a lot of work since we had never done one but we learned a lot about our jeeps.
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:04 PM   #25
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A 4 1/2" angle grinder with cutoff wheels will do the job on them bolt's. You can probably rent one from Home Depot.
their about $30 for a decent one and if you plan on doing more work they always come in handy, that and a reciprocating saw are always handy
and hey if you ever have a bolt get stuck after you cut and it wont punch out use a "pitman arm" puller the kind where its a solid two prong with a screw you can ratchet the innner tab like on this one broke on mine made it easy to adjust, put it back on my spring then cranked it out with the air gun
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:11 PM   #26
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From recent experience. Use a side grinder with cutoff wheels. Buy a stack of twenty. Then cut through the outside edge of the spring, trying to avoid the spring mount. Wear a face mask and heavy duty denim or leather jacket. You'll burn through the stack quickly. The saws-all didn't do squat for me except cost me a bundle in blades.
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:20 PM   #27
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My rear lower control arm bolts (TJ) were frozen into the knockoff "JJ" ends that Rubicon Express uses. Had to cut the bolt at both ends, in the 1/16" open space between the inner mount and joint collar. Took a hacksaw blade off the saw, fed it through, and attached it back to the saw upside down. Cut through 9/16" of grade 8 bolt, 4 times, laying on my back and pulling down on the saw to make the upside down blade bite.

Never again.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:11 AM   #28
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David how's it coming along.
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:01 PM   #29
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David how's it coming along.
All the parts are on, nothing's torqued (except maybe me). In order to settle the suspension I took it for a short ride down the bumpy driveway and back. Steering feels very sloppy.... I presume because nothing's torqued.

The rear spring perches were not laying flat against the springs. Eventually figured out that the bolt sticking up from the center of the springs was too long and hitting the axle tube. I lifted the axle back off the springs and ground down the bolt. Just got it put back together. After some chow I'll start torquing things up.

David
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Old 09-02-2013, 01:11 PM   #30
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you can buy a lot of tools with what you save off the cost of labor at a shop

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