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Old 09-17-2012, 08:25 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miethead
I will be doing new seals and gaskets. Jab not got far enough to determine if I need any further motor work.
Have not jab.

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Old 09-19-2012, 12:21 PM   #32
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Where it all is at now.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:55 PM   #33
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I remember mine being there. You've got a lot of work ahead of you. Stick with it. I'm almost done with mine... It's been about 3 years. Maybe by spring it will be back on the road. Maybe.
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:50 PM   #34
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It took me 7 years. But it's all worth it now!

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Old 09-19-2012, 03:56 PM   #35
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Hi Mike. I believe I've learned a lot from you on the cj2a page. Many thanks.

Jeff
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:47 PM   #36
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Awesome! Thank you!
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:45 PM   #37
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So what are your plans for the body? I am trying to decide which way to go, cut and piece or a tub. It would help if I could get it blasted easily however not easy or cheap. Body parts can add up too.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:01 PM   #38
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Tubs are $3000 and are not always right.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:16 PM   #39
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I was looking at the Kaiser Willys offerings, what are the opinions out there?
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:17 PM   #40
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It needs a front floor and sides. I measured everything and its square still, so I will add some supports to keep it aligned when the floor gets cut out and replace the floor and sides with new pieces. New fender brackets are needed as well as patching up some holes in the fenders. All the pieces I need will end up being half the price of a tub. I have a sandblaster, and Samsung pads to strip it down.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:18 PM   #41
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I have never ordering any parts from kaiser willys but that is where I am getting mine from when I order unless I hear good evidence otherwise.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:23 PM   #42
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Great on the blaster, it may be worth the investment in tools, I like more tools. How about the frame? I have a bunch of frame work and rust.... I am certainly watching for ideas, keep them rolling. Thanks for the input.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:27 PM   #43
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I ordered my tub through Willys Overland. My old tub needed way to many panels to justify repairing it. As stated above even the the new tubs require lots of work. I.E. move hole locations, Welding brackets, bending windshield Frame. They are far from a bolt on ordeal, but you do get fresh metal to work with.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:52 PM   #44
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My frame has on spot that I need to repair. The front passenger side by the rear leaf spring mount. Looks like there was a bump stop or similar there that messed up the frame. I need to come up with a new battery tray that's was rusted a way to nothing. I am considering boxing in the entire frame but am in sure if I will yet.
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:11 PM   #45
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Love the build thread

It's my dream to do the same.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:43 PM   #46
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I got a lot of my needed body parts from Classic enterprises.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:31 AM   #47
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Very nice. Good to see another '46 getting back on the road...
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:19 PM   #48
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Quote:
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2. The steering column is attached to the steering gearbox so to get it out you got to get the steering wheel off and then un-bolt the steering box under the Jeep and slide the column out that way. Getting the steering wheel off can be a real adventure so good luck with that. If you can....I'd keep the steering where it is and work around it.
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Steering Wheel Removal Tips on The Jeep CJ3B Page

I use the bearing remover (clam shell) but recently saw where someone was building a specific remover for old Jeeps-either 2A or 3B Pages someplace.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:02 AM   #49
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Haven't updated in a while, not much has happened due to my ex trying to move my son over 4 hours away.
Half the frame is rust free and in primer. Have some spots to weld and the rest can be finished.

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