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Old 08-14-2012, 08:57 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues View Post
Narrow track axles/shock mounts and I just pulled out a t150. If its not a 78 its pretty close.
my 79 had the t150. looks like the project is moving along well.

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Old 08-15-2012, 12:24 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Jeepn

In about 81 or 82 the side lite behind the flare was removed and then made one with the rear taillight...
That is correct. My mistake. I should have known that. When I replaced my rusted out '78 tub with an '82 I had to get the newer tail lights.

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Old 08-23-2012, 09:00 PM   #33
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Stupid phone won't upload pics but here's where we stand.
4.5 re lift
35 km2's
1 piece g2's
New rear brakes
New e brake line
Rr HD steering box mount
New steering box input seals
Replaced turn signal switch and ignition switch
Repainted roll bar
Np435
New clutch
Painted and reinstalled exhaust
New genright rear cross member

I have my knuckle over steering being fabbed and I've already got a pair of corbeau seats and a 12 fuse wiring harness to go in.
From here I'll get the steering done, install the twin stick and shim the rear axle then the tub goes back on and the real fun begins.
This has been a blast and a much larger project than I originally anticipated.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:36 PM   #34
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Tub is on...woo hoo
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:25 PM   #35
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I see you went with a later model tub with the "slanted" roll bar. I did the same except I kept my vertical roll bar to accommodate the CJ-8 half top.

Will be watching your project. Good luck.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomthbomb
I see you went with a later model tub with the "slanted" roll bar. I did the same except I kept my vertical roll bar to accommodate the CJ-8 half top.

Will be watching your project. Good luck.
This thing is a bastard. The tub is an 85...I assume the roll bar is 78 from the tub I took off, but at this point...who knows.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:37 PM   #37
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The roll bar on a 78 was vertical not slanted back. I think the slanted roll bar started in 1979 or 1980.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomthbomb
The roll bar on a 78 was vertical not slanted back. I think the slanted roll bar started in 1979 or 1980.
Probably 79 then. The drive train (at least the back half) was a t150 and narrow track and the frame has the short shock mounts. The 360 came from god knows where so I wouldn't be surprised if the seller had the year wrong. It'll be registered as an 85 because I have a title for the tub, so like I said...its a complete bastard.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:31 PM   #39
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Progress...
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:00 PM   #40
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She runs!!!!
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:25 AM   #41
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Wiring stuff sucks
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:35 PM   #42
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Progress...still a ways to go though
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:01 PM   #43
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Well it runs somewhat reliably now, and I fabbed a front bumper out of a yj bumper. Fun fun. And, of course the mobile ap won't let me post a pic.
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #44
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Been a while since I posted but here are a couple of pics.
Dash is in and we are about 95% wired. I still have to route and wire back up lights and the oil pressure/temp gauges when they come in. I also bedlined the tub and fabbed a swing open tire carrier. The 35 fits perfectly back there. All that's left to do now is put on the rear spacers, put in seat belts, put on the windshield and wire the wiper motor, get the windshield glass installed, put on jeep logo stickers and go thoroughly fail a state inspection.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:17 AM   #45
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Then and now.
Replacement tub was in worse shape than I expected so looks like full corners and sliders will be in line. Other than that its down to a windshield, shocks, mirrors and reverse lights.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:03 AM   #46
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Just realized that in all of my business I left out a lot of pics and info on the rebuild. So I'll start posting those with some info throughout the day.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:05 AM   #47
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When removing surface rust on a frame with an angle grinder goes bad. Lesson learned...wear jeans.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:14 AM   #48
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Necessity is the mother of invention. Here I can be seen using a cork screw to remove the retaining ring from the steering shaft to change the turn signal and ignition switches.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:17 AM   #49
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Junk...
First pic is the antifreeze that came out...score that there was no coolant in the oil.
2nd pic...the rear brakes...roasted.
I had a pic of all of the crud that came off of the frame but I can't find it. There was mud in every imaginable crevice.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:39 AM   #50
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Mating the 435
The transmission to bell housing was easy. And advance adapters made it even easier with great instructions on changing the output shaft.
Mating the Dana 20 to the 435 became more challenging.
The shaft that holds the shift linkage was way to long and wide. The solution ended up being to shave some of the cast iron off, shorten the shaft and install a jb twin stick. After extensive conversation and stumping the guys at advance adapters I came to figure out that this was due to the Dana 20 set up only with the t150. Other Dana 20's are apparently more agreeable with the swap.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:51 AM   #51
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Steering
I changed the input shaft seal and the boot on the gear box/lower steering shaft.
I upgraded the gear box mount with a rugged ridge HD mount.
I also upgraded to searchers steering linkage.
You can see the difference in size alone with the factory rod end. The factory tie rod was bent due to the 38's that the p.o. installed and as a side note, it makes a really nice hood prop.
I have been astonished at the durability of the factory parts. The pump had not been hooked up in years, I attached a belt, added fluid and bled...it works like a champ.
As another note, the HD steering mount actually pushed the PS hoses up which interfered with the radiator. Just had to carefully bend them down a little.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:07 AM   #52
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The motor craft 2100 2bbl
...or as I like to call it now, the ak47 of carbs.
As I said before the p.o. destroyed this cj. The 2100 has survived the blast. The choke pull off was broken, the thermostatic choke was not adjusted, the butterfly linkage was not adjusted and the Carb wouldn't choke. All of that and the thing would still run?
This is literally the 1st Carb I have ever worked on and it was super easy. I am still working out the kinks in timing and idle but it has only 3 adjustment screws and an adjustable thermostat. I may end up rebuilding it but for right now I am afraid it would do more harm than good.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:10 AM   #53
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2100 pics
At full choke the way I got it. We've come a long way and still have a little ways to go. And yes, the 360 is still lime green, not my choice but I wasn't going to get into taking it down and repainting.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:12 AM   #54
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With pics
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:36 PM   #55
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wish i would have had time to fix mine up.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:31 PM   #56
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Getting close, new front winch bumper courtesy of searchers 4wd, mirrors are on, dash is wired and wires are tucked, and I finally got around to putting on my rear wheel spacers.
Tomorrow I go get my license plate and install my windshield, horn button, horn button and plastic gas cap housing thingy. Then its off for its maiden voyage to the 4wd shop where I can fit it for shocks and re-weld my rear shackle hangers. Wish me luck. Should be ready by the weekend.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:12 PM   #57
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I swear I only took it out to be measured for shocks and to have a windshield installed. Oh well, I'll clean it up tomorrow. Also, a 360 and glass packs are a nasty combination. It looks like I'll be changing the exhaust to stay under the radar.
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