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16 JKU Rhino Wyllis

2K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  fernando perez lavin 
#1 ·
December of 2015 I was really undecided about buying a another Mustang or my first Jeep. I went with a 2016 race red Mustang GT. After only 4 months I had had enough and traded it on my 16 Rhino Wyllis. It's just a weekend driver mostly and done a few minor mods like spacers up front to fix the rake and added Warn bumpers front and rear with tire carrier and added a 9.5cti on front.

Now the real build has started. Throwing lots of good parts at it.

MC 3.5 game changer, 37BFGs, RockJock, True-tracs, ProSteer, RCV, Reid, Yeti XD, Griffen XD, PSC, Tom Woods. Im sure there a few more but thats the gist of it.


New on the lot.






This guy got stuck at the beach with a rising tide.




Pulled him out using a pullpal as an anchor.







Started the build by stripping the interior for bed lining. I bought the raptor liner kit, but still undecided if I should go with LineX. The cost is quite a bit more. Undecided but still moving on with the prep.




I don't know why this jeep needs so many wires. The wires run under the carpet to the back. 23 on the right side and 15 on the left. I didn't want to bed line over the wire or have them showing. So I cut all the wires and extended their length so they could run up the B pillar and then through the padding on the roll cage. I plan to keep the factory trim in place, so I'm only bed lining where the carpet is. The wires are protected from the firewall to the B pillar by the floor trim plastic, that why I went up the B pillar. If you have a rear washer you will need two 3/16" hose barb couplings and about 4' of hose. You will need 18 and 20awg wire. If you have a rear defroster you will need about 8' of 12awg wire.



 
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#2 ·
FYI for those thinking of prepping for bed lining. I started with my DA sander and 220 grit, it was too abrasive and to many contours.

What really works well is my 3/8" Dewalt drill that runs 2500rpm and Dico Nyalox wheels. These wheels have good life, you will only need 3. Two orange ones and one grey.

https://www.amazon.com/Dico-541-780...ie=UTF8&qid=1487603326&sr=8-2&keywords=nyalox

https://www.amazon.com/Dico-541-778...ie=UTF8&qid=1487603326&sr=8-4&keywords=nyalox



Get this one in grey,

https://www.amazon.com/Dico-541-775...id=1487603367&sr=8-2&keywords=nyalox+grey+end
 
#3 ·
The interior has been sprayed. I used one kit. 2 full coats plus a little more in the higher wear areas. I did not spray under the black plastic trim pieces in front or at the back corners. What I did is remove the carpet first and the traced around the trim pieces with a sharpie. Then removed them and prepped and sprayed. So that did save me a little product, I also have a rear sub so did not spray inside its compartment or under the removable carpet cover. I did spray the tailgate. Im happy with the way it came out. Linex was going to be 975, so this was much cheaper.











 
#5 ·
Im pecking away at it again. Removing a bunch of stuff and prepping for installs and doing some modifications.

Front axle is out, fenders flairs and inner fenders removed.

Got the PSC big bore box installed, also added the 1/2" hose kit that PSC sells, but its not required. Went in no problem. For those that are curious this box is 10lbs heavier than stock.

Tomorrow I'll finish up a steering fluid cooler and aux trans cooler install. Then start on the big brake booster install, once that is done I'll start on the front suspension.

Steering boxes, PSC is on the left.












 
#6 ·
Inspiring... Did you put all the plastic trim pieces back (ones that run along the door openings, up the pillars, etc) or just leave the out? I just picked up a '17 and would prefer to pull all the trim out and leave the exposed metal body (minimize the amount of overall plastic). But wondering if the wiring, etc are now running under all this that it would require a lot of rerouting.
 
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