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2010 Mountain Edition getting needed power (RIPP and Gears)

3K views 46 replies 13 participants last post by  Gunpilot64 
#1 ·
I enjoy reading posts about the experience of adding mods to thier rides, and really appreciate when they are followed up with reviews and other data about those mods. So........

I have teamed up with a local shop (2 Brothers Automotive) in Webster, TX to help document my 3.8 power transformation. I have owned my 2010 Mountain for about a year and am now ready to get it moving a bit better down the road and give it some merging power. I am a city cruiser and only get offroad a few times in the summer with the family and to help buddies get their rides unstuck in certain situations

As of now, I am have 72K miles, 4in lift, stock 3.73 gears, AUTO tranny, and 35in Mickey Thompson ATZs. I just purchased some 37x12.50R17 Cooper STT Pros, a RIPP supercharger, and 5.13 gears for both axles. I was running a Traildash 2 at the 97 octane tune, but converted over to stock tune for this test.

I started the Mods with stuffing the 37s under the Jeep and will get my initial dyno numbers tomorrow afternoon (March 10th, 2017). They fit great, and had to do a minor trim job (sawz-all) on the rear section of body metal under the jeep so it would not hit the rear tire over large bumps and when squatted. Fronts have no clearance issues at full lock.

I will install the RIPP next week and re-dyno, and then do the re-gear and get my final dyno numbers.

Stay tuned for data and hopefully some good video footage. Ill get some photos up tomorrow of the initial dyno.
 
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#2 ·
Sub'd. Can't wait to hear, I have a 2010 JKUR, 3.5" lift and 35" Toyo's and while I love it, a little something extra in the go department would be nice. Did you consider doing RIPP Long tube headers? I was sort of leaning toward trying that first and sticking with NA before going FI. Since you are a fellow Texan I really want to know how the SC treats you post install with regard to heat and your AC. Good luck!
 
#5 ·
Got her on the dyno, and no I am depressed!! 100.4 RWHP was all she had.
Did 3 pulls all with same result. I have had my LS2 and 302 vehicles all tuned here, so I know their numbers are accurate. Ran it till 5500 RPM where the computer seems to kill the ignition.

I also tried loading in my 93 Octane tune with the Trail Dash 2, but had some serious issues. When he attempted the first pull, he had issues with the throttle response. On the second pull we smelt burning brake pads. Seems like something in that tune was activating traction control or something causing it to apply the brakes. Don't know what is in the superchips program.

 
#9 ·
First of all, how do you edit a post? I don't see the option anywhere?

Got in the gears and waiting for the supercharger. Snow storms in the north may delay things for a bit. Debating the next step. Do I re-gear and dyno and then dyno again after the RIPP? Do I add the RIPP first and dyno THEN re-gear to dyno again? OR do both and dyno once?

What data would be best beneficial to this forum? After getting the 100RWHP numbers, I am anxious to get the RIPP delivered!

I guess Ill keep this thread for the RIPP install and start another thread with my actual build and other options added.
 
#10 ·
I would be interested in dyno after gears then another after supercharger, but I'm not up-and-up on performance to know how much of a difference it would make. Maybe just show a decrease in drivetrain loss if anything.
 
#14 ·
Question, why 5.13 with 37's? Is that recommended because of the supercharger? I'm looking to regear my 4.10 when I add 37in tires but everyone said to go 4.88 (with the 3.6L). Now that I look at the chart again it seems 4.88 is for automatic and 5.13 for manual. Either way, was there some science to your choosing 5.13?

Eli
 
#15 ·
RIPP finally arrived last night. Should have time this weekend for install. I went with 5.13 after I scoured the forums on the 4.88 vs 5.13 debate. From what I put together, not much difference in gearing but I did see many people that ran 4.88 that wish they did 5.13. This was most true with people with 37s that may do 40s in the future. I also saw a post that said RIPP recommends the 5.13 with the supercharger installed.
 
#17 ·
I could not help myself, so I took a half day off of work. Got a lot done. All that is left is intercooler and plumbing. Pretty straight forward install.



I have a policy that if I take something off the car, or am working in an area that I have to clean it. That took quite a bit of time, but is always worth it.

Before:

After:

If I feel up to it, I may finish it up tonight. We will see.
 
#21 ·
Did not go any further last night. If I feel up to it, Ill be in the garage tonight after the kids go to bed to finishing the intercooler and piping. That part should be straight forward. Probably give it a crank and inspect for fuel, air, and vacuum leaks then.
 
#22 ·
So I take back previous statements. All finished up and accomplished first start. Installing the intercooler and pipes was the hardest part of the project! I recommend leaving the water pump pulley off till the end and leaving the supercharger and both support brackets loose until pipes are connected. This will give you play while wiggling rubber adapters on and allow for the best fitment. The number 1 pipe was the worst. The radiator hose did not allow the adapter to fit. That is when I realized I needed to loosen everything back up. After I did that, I was able to get a good alignment. Once all clamps were tightened, I re-tightened the charger, supports, and reinstalled the pulley and belt.

Also took me a second to realize the charger was shipped full of oil, but the tech that did that switched the dipstick with the vent plug location. Once I got them back, it registered full and was good to go.

Diablo tuner acted differently then the manual showed. It needed to load a new calibration to my Jeep first. Once it did that, the RIPP tune loaded just fine. Started right up.

This thing is LOUD. I mean a bunch of racket. I have read posts about this, so it did not bother me. It should get better with time. I will post a video later. The idler pulleys are loud, and the internals are loud. Makes a good wine at throttle and blow off valve hisses when you let up.

I'll get a test drive tomorrow.

Having computer issues, but will post more pics and video later.
 
#26 ·
Looks pretty sweet! How's it drive? I wonder how easy it is to get water in that filter. I know a lot of us have CAI of various sorts, but I'm pretty sure they all have some sort of filter box.


Current build: 2016 JKU Hardrock | aka Dragon Lady
Past builds: '79 & '81 CJ7, 93 ZJ, 04 TJ Rubi
 
#28 ·
Drives fantastic! Drives normal under regular conditions which is good. To get boost, you really have to put your foot in it. I have been getting 8-10lbs at wide open and higher RPMs. I'll give it a couple hundred miles break in before I get the Dyno done. I'll post videos once I figure out the best way to do that.
 
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