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Old 04-05-2014, 07:08 AM   #151
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How would you rate the inroad handling of this package? Has it improved over stock? How is body roll on curvy roads? I very well might be going this direction and would appreciate your feedback. I was initially going to go with either Currie or Synergy... How would you rate the quality of the product overall? I know it handles the trail very well but am curious on your thoughts on the DD aspect.

Thanks in advance.
Honestly, I was going back and forth between MC and RK and let's not even get into that mess. Long story short, I decided on this lift because it makes for an excellent DD. The MC joints do a lot to absorb road vibration as a side-effect of their design. I honestly don't think they were designed specifically for road benefits, but that is what you get with the MC joint.

The body roll is probably 30% less than stock with about 3.75 inches of lift (no spare). That is impressive to me. I'm still working to get my tire inflation correct for the road, but its a big improvement over stock ride. Honestly more improvement than I expected.

The overall quality is great. My issues with the whole lift and process are twofold:

1. I was missing 6 bolts from my install kit. MC would have shipped them out UPS but i got them from the store for $5 so I could move on.

2. The instructions do need some update/work. They're ok but the pictures could be improved and updates made. MC is actually working on this now on their new instruction site.

The quality of the parts is top notch and you can see the attention paid to each component. There are no burrs or dings or messed up threads. Packing is great, etc. Everything went in without a mallet. Couldn't be happier from that regard. The issues above are minor in the big picture and easily remedied.

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Old 04-05-2014, 07:11 AM   #152
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Have you seen the ones that come on the new Rubicon X? They might be perfect based on what it sounds like you are trying to accomplish. Seriously, check them out, I think you will see where I'm coming from. I'll look for a pic I can grab and add it here....

Great looking rig and great thread of the process! How do you like the 6 pack shocks? How are they for DDing?
Do you think the rubicon x rails offer more protection than the regular ones? THey maybe stick out another inch? They do look good though...if I find a set cheap I'd go there.

The 6 pack are fine for the road, a much improved ride. Its wild to see how after driving the shock body moves up to the top and the lower pistons do most of the work. Pretty cool and they explain it in the instructions so you don't freak out.

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Old 04-06-2014, 08:11 PM   #153
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Honestly, I was going back and forth between MC and RK and let's not even get into that mess. Long story short, I decided on this lift because it makes for an excellent DD. The MC joints do a lot to absorb road vibration as a side-effect of their design. I honestly don't think they were designed specifically for road benefits, but that is what you get with the MC joint.

The body roll is probably 30% less than stock with about 3.75 inches of lift (no spare). That is impressive to me. I'm still working to get my tire inflation correct for the road, but its a big improvement over stock ride. Honestly more improvement than I expected.

The overall quality is great. My issues with the whole lift and process are twofold:

1. I was missing 6 bolts from my install kit. MC would have shipped them out UPS but i got them from the store for $5 so I could move on.

2. The instructions do need some update/work. They're ok but the pictures could be improved and updates made. MC is actually working on this now on their new instruction site.

The quality of the parts is top notch and you can see the attention paid to each component. There are no burrs or dings or messed up threads. Packing is great, etc. Everything went in without a mallet. Couldn't be happier from that regard. The issues above are minor in the big picture and easily remedied.
I really appreciate your input! The install will be on OK4wd so I'm not to worried about it. For what you get it actually seems like a pretty good value on the whole package.

My main concern is to have a solid on road truck while maintaining solid off road performance. I'm not running KOH in it but want to be able to run Moab, Rubicon and many of the western trails. Primarily rocks etc as I'm not a mud guy. The shocks have me intrigued but I do worry about committing to a "one of" system. What were your thoughts on having to cut your shock towers? Does this become a problem if you ditch the system and want to go back to standard Kings or Fox?

Sorry for the delayed response, it was one of those weekends....
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:15 PM   #154
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Do you think the rubicon x rails offer more protection than the regular ones? THey maybe stick out another inch? They do look good though...if I find a set cheap I'd go there.

The 6 pack are fine for the road, a much improved ride. Its wild to see how after driving the shock body moves up to the top and the lower pistons do most of the work. Pretty cool and they explain it in the instructions so you don't freak out.
Yeah, based on what you were describing they sound like they would be right up your alley based on what you were looking for. They seem like they stick out 2-3" but not much more than that.

In this pic you can see what I'm talking about...
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:39 PM   #155
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What were your thoughts on having to cut your shock towers? Does this become a problem if you ditch the system and want to go back to standard Kings or Fox?
Only about 3 inches of the lower rest shock mount is trimmed. You can leave it in place but at the sacrifice of ground clearance. That's the only cutting on the game changer. The rest of the mounts are bolt on...so I could mostly go back sans the rear lower mounts.
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:29 PM   #156
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Only about 3 inches of the lower rest shock mount is trimmed. You can leave it in place but at the sacrifice of ground clearance. That's the only cutting on the game changer. The rest of the mounts are bolt on...so I could mostly go back sans the rear lower mounts.
How much clearance am I going to give up by leaving it as is?
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:07 AM   #157
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How much clearance am I going to give up by leaving it as is?
3". and i may be wrong, but if you did ever decide to use a different shock after you cut, you would just have to get a length to compensate for the adjusted mounting location.
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:40 AM   #158
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3". and i may be wrong, but if you did ever decide to use a different shock after you cut, you would just have to get a length to compensate for the adjusted mounting location.
That is correct. you gain 3" of clearance with the cut, so you'd have 3" more to bash if you left them uncut.
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:39 AM   #159
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If you need a hand with anything let me know. Love the build, btw.
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:48 AM   #160
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If you need a hand with anything let me know. Love the build, btw.
I appreciate the offer and I'll take you up on it some time! Got some marker lights in the front yesterday after work. I found some 12.8v round LEDs for $7.50 that were just a hair too big for the Metalcloak hole. Nothing a dremel couldn't solve.



Crimped on some bullet connectors so I could remove them if I take the fenders off when off-road. Also tied the other side of the bullet connectors to the OEM wiring with the factory plug. Two connections is a lot- but if I ever need to change it out, I'll just undo it at the OEM plug.
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:37 PM   #161
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This is a great build!

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Old 04-23-2014, 07:14 PM   #162
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Great setup man, I am still waiting on my MC overline fender setup to show up so this was a nice find. Although I feel a bit overwhelmed now to get these installed lol. I know it'll be a pain but I just keep reading patience is the key. I have the GenRight Boatside sliders and skins and I'm not sure if they will contact the exoskin in the rear or not. I may end up having to mod my Exoskin just a tad for them to match right. I am taking a risk that they will still flow alright with the genrights. Although the sliders are black and because my tire carrier is raw aluminum I am thinking of painting the fenders and exoskin the same color to match. We'll see. I'll get pics up when I get the fenders on so you can see how they run with the gen rights.
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Old 04-24-2014, 08:54 AM   #163
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Great setup man, I am still waiting on my MC overline fender setup to show up so this was a nice find. Although I feel a bit overwhelmed now to get these installed lol. I know it'll be a pain but I just keep reading patience is the key. I have the GenRight Boatside sliders and skins and I'm not sure if they will contact the exoskin in the rear or not. I may end up having to mod my Exoskin just a tad for them to match right. I am taking a risk that they will still flow alright with the genrights. Although the sliders are black and because my tire carrier is raw aluminum I am thinking of painting the fenders and exoskin the same color to match. We'll see. I'll get pics up when I get the fenders on so you can see how they run with the gen rights.
Hey. I went and checked out those Genright sliders. Those are some of the nicer ones I've seen. I'm almost positive the exoskin will impact those sliders in the rear and front. BUT, they say on the Genright site they they can be trimmed easily to fit. YOu could probably template out and cut them to go around the MC flares. It would be a really good look. I don't like most sliders but those would look great trimmed around the fender area as they stay tight to the vehicle.

Do post some pics!

EDIT: I found someone who did a cut out of a Genright slider around what is definitely a metalcloak fender. Not a JK..but same thing I think you'll end up doing to some extent.

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Old 04-24-2014, 10:07 AM   #164
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my local 4x4 shop swears by genright
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:04 AM   #165
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So I finally got my MC's on and there are a few things that will need attention to get the Gen Rights to fit. The front rocker is actually fine, but the rear will have to lose about 2" to clear the exoskin. Then I may have to notch the actual slider just a tad in the front to clear the "ball/socket" from the front MC fender. I'll try to get to it tomorrow, but I'll make sure to take some pics a long the way in case you go this route you know what needs to be done. I searched and couldn't find anything about compatibility between Gen-Right and MC so this has been a learn as you go event.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:13 PM   #166
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This is a great build, nice attention to detail all around!

If your still wondering about the color scheme, I think that your Grill might look real nice matched to those wheels and especially so since you went with Tan top.

All in all a beautiful machine!
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:29 AM   #167
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This is a great build, nice attention to detail all around!

If your still wondering about the color scheme, I think that your Grill might look real nice matched to those wheels and especially so since you went with Tan top.

All in all a beautiful machine!
I"d love to match the grill to the wheels but the color matching has proven incredibly difficult to get right. I've put it on pause. Meanwhile I'm still driving around with no grill on the jeep which is probably a no-no.

Only accomplishment of the month...jeep top hoist complete. Only challenge is backing into it in a relatively tight garage space.

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Old 05-19-2014, 07:34 AM   #168
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After a day of wheeling, I"m about 99% sure I need to remove one section of the front and rear bump stops (and so say others). Is there any better way to figure out if its a good/bad idea besides just taking them out and seeing what rubs? I'm following MC recommendations for 37s, but they don't tuck nearly as high as I think they can go. I didn't blow up the stock front shaft locking it up crawling uphill over rocks.



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Old 05-19-2014, 07:49 AM   #169
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Take tire off. Take the lower shock mount off. Remove spring. Remove stock bump stop. Attach lower shock mount. Put tire back on. Jack up hub just before the shock tops out. Measure distance between top and bottom spring perch. This will tell you how much bump stop you need.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:09 AM   #170
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Also installed a spiderweb shade with the side panels. What a great effing product. I'd buy it 10 times over again. With the doors on it really cuts down on the wind noise and keeps the direct sun off my head, which is good/important when you're folically challenged.

I didn't get much of the "flapping that some others talked about. Maybe the side panels did something to help that. Hopefully it doesn't act as a parachute when I take the doors off.

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Old 05-19-2014, 08:32 AM   #171
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the flapping comes later. i didn't notice it at all. but after a season i noticed the top has stretched a bit and there is flapping, but its not bad. there are plenty of ways to fix it anyway. jeep looks great off pavement!
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:05 AM   #172
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How much bump stop are you running? With those fenders I would think you have plenty of space to stuff the tires. I am using their chart also with 35's and 3 inch stops and seems like I could get away with 2. I cycled the axles before putting in springs and 3 was too much, but figured I would follow the directions. Let us know what you do so we can adjust with you, lol. Jeep looks great by the way.
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Old 05-20-2014, 06:56 PM   #173
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Take tire off. Take the lower shock mount off. Remove spring. Remove stock bump stop. Attach lower shock mount. Put tire back on. Jack up hub just before the shock tops out. Measure distance between top and bottom spring perch. This will tell you how much bump stop you need.
I'm about 95% sure that the way the gamechanger's shocks are made, they will NOT bottom out before the tire takes the fender off or impacts something important. Maybe I do the same process, but jack up the hub until the tire's first point of impact (or close to it). Hopefully the measurement will just show I can take one section of the MC bumps out.
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Old 05-20-2014, 06:58 PM   #174
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How much bump stop are you running? With those fenders I would think you have plenty of space to stuff the tires. I am using their chart also with 35's and 3 inch stops and seems like I could get away with 2. I cycled the axles before putting in springs and 3 was too much, but figured I would follow the directions. Let us know what you do so we can adjust with you, lol. Jeep looks great by the way.
I'm at 37s and 3" stops and I have room left to flex when I hit the bumps. 35s and these fenders are ideal to flex like mad, but I wanted 37s just because!

I'll have to take a section out and see what happens.
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:00 AM   #175
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Seems like a waste to me to limit with 3 inch stops with all the suspension and fender work you have. It will probably be good to go though.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:18 AM   #176
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I'm was under the impression that the 3.5" Gamechanger kit, may not work properly on the 2dr JK. I believed the rear coils will bow to much, and the spring perches will need to be removed, and welded on at a different angle to accommodate the new pinion angle.
Can you give more information on the rear coils figment, and/or any pertinent info on this lift. I've been considering this, and the 2.5" GC.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:01 AM   #177
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I'm was under the impression that the 3.5" Gamechanger kit, may not work properly on the 2dr JK. I believed the rear coils will bow to much, and the spring perches will need to be removed, and welded on at a different angle to accommodate the new pinion angle.
Can you give more information on the rear coils figment, and/or any pertinent info on this lift. I've been considering this, and the 2.5" GC.
I just want to jump in a clarify this.

The 3.5" Game-Changer works without any issues on the 2 door. If you go with a CV rear driveline the rear coils will have a bow to them because of rotating the pinion up. It can be corrected by relocating the lower perches but is not required. There are quite a few people running 3.5" lifts on 2 doors that have not done this and no issues reported so far.
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Old 06-02-2014, 01:05 PM   #178
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I just want to jump in a clarify this.

The 3.5" Game-Changer works without any issues on the 2 door. If you go with a CV rear driveline the rear coils will have a bow to them because of rotating the pinion up. It can be corrected by relocating the lower perches but is not required. There are quite a few people running 3.5" lifts on 2 doors that have not done this and no issues reported so far.
I've had no issues with this either. The 3.5 Gamechanger works perfectly well on my 2 door - no issues so far. Most everything is addressed on the MC website and they were very thorough in figuring out my jeep setup prior to sending me any kit.

At the end of the month I should be heading up to a few spots I can get some full-droop/compression pictures for illustrative purposes.
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:48 AM   #179
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Fantastic detail work on your Jeep. I've got the 3.5 Dualrate ARB on my 13 unlimited.

Don't know if I missed it reading this thread late last night but how did you address driveshaft clearances?
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:18 AM   #180
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i don't think he listed it, but i believe he used teraflex exhaust spacers. i ordered the rancho exhaust pipe kit for my 3.5" ARB on my '13 jkur. i will let you know how that goes soon.

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