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Old 01-29-2014, 03:19 PM   #1
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Jesse's Girl gets hardcore w/ Metalcloak

I thought I'd finally start a build thread to chronicle my modifications from mild to (hopefully) wild, or at least unique. Feel free to comment as I really appreciate constructive criticism and alternative points of view.

I don't have every single future upgrade picked out for my build, but I do have a general idea in which direction I want to head. I will reach a point where I'm hoping the wranglerforum community can help me pick the next mod or go in the right direction.

Might as well start at the beginning. Jeep is a 2012 Rubicon in Deep Cherry Red. It wasn't my first choice in color but it has grown on me ever since. I really wanted the two tone dash and saddle leather interior and I think it goes well together.



First mod, and a tame one, was to remove the grill and add some gutter guard and plasti-dip.



I love the results and the cost.



Another tame mod was to shorten the antenna. I like the look and knowing I don't have a metal rod whipping around to potentially smack something. The reception with the antenna is suprisingly good considering its much shorter length. I'm north of Baltimore and I can still pick up Washington DC stations.


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Old 01-29-2014, 03:36 PM   #2
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After having taken the JK off road a few times, I decided I wanted a stubby bumper badly. I thought the Vertically Driven Products stubby bumper kit was an awesome solution. I put it on an loved it. The fit and finish and ease of install made it great.





This guys was my inspiration with his front recovery tools mounted using the factory hooks.


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Old 01-31-2014, 08:49 AM   #3
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Having a 2 door limits storage capacity a bit. Thought I'd go with some interior upgrades. I found these hinged Molle tailgate racks on ebay. They are pretty well built and are from alanjk427 on ebay. I liked that they have the Rubicon logo cut into the panel. Looks a bit more purpose-built.





They came packed well and the build quality and powedercoating were pretty good for homemade.



Price is great when you get the package that includes the side panels..though I'm not exactly sure what I'll do with them. They are put together with stainless hardware and nylock nuts. Take a bit of adjusting to mount sturdily but good after.




So good product at a good price but install is a little bit of a pain. You have to drill holes in your jeep. No biggie. If you get one of these I highly recommend you drill your holes slightly larger (1/32nd or 1/16) than suggested in the instructions. The stainless steel screws that mount it to your tailgate will SNAP off at the head with the recommended hole size. They they are hell to extract if they are mostly in. Have to drill them out bit by bit. SO, drill your hole larger and you're good.

THEN once its installed..it will rattle your brains out and drive you bonkers. They even show some foam on the ebay listing to prevent this. Instead, I used a bit of heatshrink tube around the pin that holds the folding gate up as pictured and BAM..no rattle. It also prevents the pin from rattling out..which they will do (and don't anymore).



Then I drilled a couple holes and mounted a Fiskars 7857 X15 Chopping Axe using a couple Quick Fists. Love the setup and I have this axes at home on my ATV as well for trail clearing. Thing is a little beast and it fits well on the tailgate.
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:45 AM   #4
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Jumped to my first real mod. I did a lot of reading and decided on the LOD Armor Lite Front Bumper. I ordered the stubby (of course) as I loved the look and ordered the bull bar because, while I get the purpose, i'm not sure I like the look. I just hope in the event of a possible endover that the bull bar serves a similar function.

The LOD Armor Lite just has sick build quality (that's good), beautiful welds and looks strong as can be. Didn't have to relocate the vacuum pump and the integrated skid plate is sturdy as well. It integrates the factory fogs which is great..though I can't get my plate mounted between them (the only real complaint).

Some random pics from the install progress. Sturdy recovery points


Easy OEM fog light integration:


Mounted and Engo 9000 pound winch. Read some incredibly solid reviews about the value of this unit so I went for it.



After finishing the install I immediately switched to synthetic line:


I hadn't figured out how to remote mount the solenoid box yet so I left the winch unwired. I also need to go back and remove the washers I placed behind the mounting bolts..but they shouldn't hurt anything for the time being.

I've had great experience with it so far. Only a couple big bangs but no damage other than paint.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:27 AM   #5
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I've been trying to figure out how to set my jeep off from the rest of the pack when the build is finished. My jeep is a deep cherry red with brown saddle interior. Do you know that NOT ONE COMPANY makes a good brown top for a 2 door JK? There are some grey tops and "tan" top (its really grey) but nothing rich brown like the old days. Sad..but I have some plans. (queue maniacal laugh) Anyway..after some thinking I've decided to model my build loosely after an old Jeep CJ7 Golden eagle. Specifically this gorgeous gal inspires me.



First step..wheels. I want a modern, top quality wheel. I don't like a lot of the newer wheel looks (just personal preference) and I don't think I need a beadlock. I liked the classic look of the centerline wilderness forged aluminum rims and I thought they would work well for my build:


Found a set that had been powder'd black and grabbed them.





Good looking wheels but the black wasn't for me. Keeping to my theme, I wanted a brownish gold wheel. I decided to try to find a powdercoat the same color as the leather seats and two-tone dash. I think this one works very well with both considering the seats aren't the same as the dash and the seats have variation:





A little chemical strip back to the Centerline forged aluminum, a light blast, and BAM..first step achieved. The picture here is low quality (at night in a garage with a cell phone). They don't bring out the richness but they turned out great. I'll have to think about tires and my lift for a while before I will mount them up.

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Old 01-31-2014, 10:34 AM   #6
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looking good!
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:27 PM   #7
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I am intrigued. I want to se those wheels installed. Are you going to get you a golden eagle sticker?
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:19 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by UgaTyler View Post
I am intrigued. I want to se those wheels installed. Are you going to get you a golden eagle sticker?
No I don't think so, but I will likely have my Rubicon sticker redone in a similar color scheme. Not going for exact replica..just some inspiration. I'm sure I saw someone on the forum that does lettering in vinyl.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:04 PM   #9
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No I don't think so, but I will likely have my Rubicon sticker redone in a similar color scheme. Not going for exact replica..just some inspiration. I'm sure I saw someone on the forum that does lettering in vinyl.
Pixeldecals.com My rubicon logo is two tone like my signature. Quality vinyl!
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:39 PM   #10
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subscribed! great ideas, love it so far!
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:50 AM   #11
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Subscribed as well, cool build idea.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:36 PM   #12
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I decided I want/need 37 12.50 17s as my final setup. I feel its a balance between the practicality/price of 35s and the badassness of 40s. Plus a ton of tire selection in 37! Nevertheless I want to keep a relatively low COG without sacrificing travel. To tuck 37s at all, the first thing I've worked out is the need to replace my stock fenders.

I put some serious time in reading across all the forums and decided that I will build Jessee’s Girl with a nearly full Metalcloak setup. Short of a NO fender setup (not road legal) or drastic cuts to the tub or custom custom work (which I won’t do) I don’t think there is a fender system anywhere that allows the tires to go UP so much towards the body without contacting metal. I’m going with the full Metalcloak Overline tube fender system front and rear. The overland fenders look great, but I understand they require more bumpstop to limit up travel. I want maximum up travel so Metalcloak overline fenders are the best around.

I borrowed some pics from the Metalcloak website because I think the computer generated pics show that the overline fits above the line of the tub/body and the overland fits along the natural line of the tub.

Overland:


Overline:


I was reading through the install instructions and noted that they say the overline fenders will be at or almost touching the hood latch. Compared to the picture, that means the overlines could be even higher up on the body for extra clearance. Either way, I went for it.

I do like that they sell them in raw metal or black powdercoat but that they demonstrate the pieces using a similar color to my ride. Excellent...Plus have you seen the pics/videos of people standing on them or rocking the vehicle with them. These thinge look stout.

I like the idea that if I’m wheeling and I tip over sideways (ouch) that if I’m lucky enough to land on my Metalcloak fender system, then the only damage will be to their finish and not the tub of my vehicle or worse.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:08 PM   #13
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All of the stuff came in the mail pretty quickly. For the most part the packaging was well thought out and some of it even overpackaged with foam wrap, air bags, and cardboard. My boxes were clearly tossed around by the delivery company and the boxes were pretty beat up with holes in many. Everything survived!








I chose to stick with the raw fenders as they allow me to finish them my way and keep with my theme above. Metalcloak offers a black powdercoat finish (which is well done. Pics in my forthcoming Bumper post) but I want to color match mine to the body as I think it will stand out and look great. Oh yes, the fenders!

I was basically sold on the fact that Metalcloak overline tube fenders allow me to run 37s on a stock JK. While I do plan to add a lift, this is great for the time being if I want to roll around on 37s until I get my lift accomplished. I already did my wheels and I'm excited to mount up some tires. No way I could even mount 37s with stock fenders but I can with these.

The front overline fender I went with is really two parts. First is the tube fender that mounts closest to the tub. Second is the flare that mounts to the tube fender attached to the body. It mounts to two points with long 18/8 stainless hardware through two ball lock joints. Basically they are studded ball mounts that allow perfect alignment of the tube fender and flare and Im sure they add strength/surface area to the connection. The Metalcloak website has about a million great pics and an animated GIF of how it works.






One of the first things you notice is an almost perfectly uniform gap between the fender setup and the flare, and the gap is small. They put some serious build time and effort into these and its obvious when you look over them. They don't have metal burrs or imperfections.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:20 PM   #14
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The rear fenders are either more or less complex depending on your perspective. To get the strength necessary to support vehicle weight with the rear flare, the Metalcloak system requires rear body armor panels they call “Exoskin”. It freaked me out a bit at first as I was a little worriedabout mounting additional metal to my jeep. Then I started looking at my rear tub sides and they are really flimsy. You'd have to add something to the side of the jeep to keep it from crushing in on impact.

So when these got here, I figured out Exoskin is basically the metalcloak term for ultra heavy duty armor plates for the rear of your JK. They mount through and to the tub in a zillion spots to form a tub wall of greatly increased rigidity.

The fender then mounts to the exoskin and is removable in the exact same way as the front flare, with two stainless steel bolts that connect the fender solidly to the exoskin. The fit and finish is very impressive.

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Old 02-05-2014, 08:12 AM   #15
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Pulled off the stock fenders.



BAM!



Rear bumper gone.



Rear fenders off.

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Old 02-05-2014, 08:29 AM   #16
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I went with the Metalcloak Crawler rear bumper. I love the stubby front look so I felt I wanted to stick with a stubby look for the rear and Metalcloak offers that in this setup.

I like that it allows me to keep my stock tow hitch which I would rather not lose as I use it a ton. I have a bike rack I mount up to it and I tow a small trailer occasionally. Oh yeah, and its nice with a shackle for recovery.

Anyway, the bumper came in the mail in bomb proof packaging. The bumper was wrapped in plastic, then stuck in a box and surrounded by padding, then secured in a stapled-closed box.




The powdercoat finish was high quality, very even an no chunks of welding shrapnel or other noticeable imperfections. Im sure this is in part because they probably prepped the bumper well before powdering it. I went through that process with my wheels above and know what it takes to get powder done right! The welds are also uniform and impressive (I"m a terrible welder).


PIC/finish



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Old 02-05-2014, 09:12 AM   #17
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I chose the 62 inch Metalcloak crawler rear bumper for rear protection. I like that it is modular - for my purposes, future-proof. It is roughly a 48 inch bumper base that mounts directly to the frame behind the rear cross member using some proprietary (and very heavy duty) mounts.



Then to/through the main bumper base, you add the end caps that make it the width of the body at a total of 62 inches wide.





Ive yet to decide how I want to mount my spare tire and its really personal preference. I know a 37 hanging off the door is a bad thing, but there are solutions that help. Either way, what I do like and why I went with this setup is that if I decide to go with a tire carrier, I can just order the additional parts from Metalcloak and they integrate perfectly with the crawler rear bumper system. Basically remove the passenger side of the setup, and add the carrier system.

Frame Mounts:





Took me about an hour to do alone, could have gone much faster with helping hands and if I wasnt taking my time. Frame mounts allow adjustment of bumper to body distance. I pushed it all the way forward and it left a nice even gap between body and bumper.






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Old 02-06-2014, 11:29 AM   #18
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I'm installing the front Metalcloak Overline fenders and fender flares first in bare metal. Doing this because I can use the front fender as a drill guide when drilling the holes for the added support brackets that come with the system. Also I plan to color-match my fenders and flares so I don't want to paint them first and increase the risk of scratching them up.

Rock rail off, front fender removed. Next step is cutting off the old fender mounting bracket. While not 100% essential, if left on I read that it becomes the limiting factor in wheel travel if you don't. Umm...I want travel. Bracket came off easily with a cutoff and then I clamped the raw overline tube fender on.



Paint masked (DO THIS!). Bracket cut off and raw metal painted. Fender clamped on and lined up with as many OEM holes as possible.



I got most of the holes lined up well. These get enlarged to support larger mounting hardware.



You get to center punch and drill some new holes. Pretty large so get your nice bits ready.



I had to attach the flare just for a sneak preview. Looks badass. I even considered leaving them raw and just clearcoating them.



I love the uniformity of the gap between tube fender and flare.



Fender mounts through the tub and through some pretty heavy duty aluminum stand-offs to make the inner and outer tub a single solid structure.



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Old 02-06-2014, 12:00 PM   #19
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Looking good so far!
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Old 02-06-2014, 03:13 PM   #20
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this thing is MEAN!

I can't wait to see the gold control arms twist!

I might need a 2 door!
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:59 PM   #21
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The best way to describe the metalcloak exoskin is seriously heavy duty. I hope to post exact weights of all of my gear in a future post. I am keeping track of the weight of each piece. The armor is 1/8 inch steel plate and mounts to the body using a series of rivet nuts and bolt/washer/locknuts arrangements. It was a pretty extensive process with a ton of drilling as the plate mounts to the 2 door in over 20 locations. Im not sure about the four door but it should be at least as many.

Taped the body (again..highly recommended)



Drilled and installed the first couple rivet nuts to help support the exoskin as you line it up on the body.



Clamped on the exoskin and made the gaps even all around. I did all this by myself so it is do-able as a one person operation.




Installing rivet nuts is not among my favorite activities but it all went pretty well. Metalcloak provides an expendable rivet nut tool that I used to do the job in whole. The rivet nuts used are very large 3/8 16 so it take a good deal of pressure to install and ensure a solid mounting surface for the threads. If you can borrow or buy a larger rivnut tool then Id say go for it. Metalcloak recommends one they use in their shop, but I was anxious to get started and used what was provided. It went pretty well all said and done.

Again. All the metalcloak kit seems very hi precision. Had to test-fit the tube fender for fun.



There is a lot of drilling involved and TAKE YOUR TIME. The rear sheetmetal is paper thin without much crown. It will shred/tear if you go up too quickly in drill bit size. Of the 40+ holes, I had only two get torn a bit. Easy fixes with some snips and a dremel grinder, but slow and steady seems to do best.



I use a cotton swab, sprayed some paint on a plastic lid, and pained the exposed metal in each hole after drilling and before rivet nut install. Just to keep it clean/rust free longer.





Now all of the Metalcloak tube fenders, flares, and exoskin are off to get painted.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:37 PM   #22
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Looks great so far, I was thinking about the exo skin but decided to just try the overland fenders first, won't have mine for about 5 weeks but I'm looking forward to it.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:43 AM   #23
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Looks great so far, I was thinking about the exo skin but decided to just try the overland fenders first, won't have mine for about 5 weeks but I'm looking forward to it.
I loved the look of the Overland fenders and I went back and forth before deciding on the Overlines. The Overland fenders offer as much up travel as any other company's fenders (PS, Nemesis, etc.), only a little less than Overline series.

Overlands are also nice as you don't have to deal with as involved an install process if which (as I know) can be daunting at first. Its a sort of large commitment mounting exoskin on your ride - though I'm happy I did.
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:34 AM   #24
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Loving this build
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:43 AM   #25
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I am jealous of your build! It is looking awesome.

One question, with the overland fenders, did you relocate your turn signal, if so where at?

Thanks
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:35 AM   #26
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Subscribed. Great informative post!
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:07 AM   #27
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nice
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:31 AM   #28
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Very cool to watch this one and well documented/thought out..
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:40 AM   #29
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I am jealous of your build! It is looking awesome.

One question, with the overland fenders, did you relocate your turn signal, if so where at?

Thanks
The turn signals are in the front grill. I haven't relocated the marker lamps ias of yet, but I have seen a few ingenious solutions like using an LED light behind the Metalcloak "M" in the grill, or using a small LED on the side of the body.

There is also this hole that exists to access a bolt that could potentially be used for a small LED marker?

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Old 02-09-2014, 12:10 PM   #30
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This is looking great.

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