My 2011 JKU Rubicon Build/Project - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Build Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 04-20-2012, 09:01 AM   #61
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Continuing onward.

Rear section tacked in place and ready for a test fit of the tire. I am making it just large enough in case I ever decide to step up to 37" tires. I doubt I ever will but I would rather plan ahead.


Another one of my welds.


Backside. I have not fully welded the backside at this point.


Mounting brackets. I am using two grade 8 3/4" bolts per side. I welded the nuts to the inside of the mounting bracket for easy installation.


That is all for today. I will post up some more throughout the weekend as work progresses. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Mike.

__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 08:32 AM   #62
Jeeper
 
jmcd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 195
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by zmotorsports View Post
Continuing onward.

Rear section tacked in place and ready for a test fit of the tire. I am making it just large enough in case I ever decide to step up to 37" tires. I doubt I ever will but I would rather plan ahead.


Another one of my welds.


Backside. I have not fully welded the backside at this point.


Mounting brackets. I am using two grade 8 3/4" bolts per side. I welded the nuts to the inside of the mounting bracket for easy installation.


That is all for today. I will post up some more throughout the weekend as work progresses. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Mike.
Hmm, Flux Core, Ya gotta love it

__________________
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles,The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena,whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood
jmcd is offline   Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 10:02 AM   #63
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcd View Post
Hmm, Flux Core, Ya gotta love it
No flux core. That is ER70s6 solid wire with C25 gas.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 10:49 AM   #64
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Lincoln, RI
Posts: 178
Very nice build.

Your Jeep makes me wonder if buying the tan Mojave was want I really want lol Don't get me wrong I love the tan color but a clean black Jeep is hard to beat especially when it is done as nicely as yours is.
h22lude is offline   Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 05:58 PM   #65
Jeeper
 
jmcd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 195
Images: 1
Sorry, looked like flux on the T weld. I like gas better, It's faster
__________________
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles,The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena,whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood
jmcd is offline   Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 12:57 AM   #66
Jeeper
 
snochick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,111
Images: 2
I want your garage. As a mechanic myself, your garage is making me freaking drool. Nice build write-up too. Last time I built one it was a TJ. So don't mind me if I steel some of your ideas. You've obviously read up on a JK a lot more than I have. I've had the thing for a year and been pretty lazy on my research till I ordered the lift.
snochick is offline   Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 07:15 AM   #67
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Thank you.

h22lude, black was not actually my first choice, probably not even in the top five. I have had a black vehicle in the past and swore to my wife I would never own another one as they are a PITA to keep clean.

That said, when buying used and not picking the color beggers can't be choosers I guess. Actually now that I have had it for about five months it is kind of growing on me. I kind of like the black body with all of the blacked out accessories, although I may change my mind in July/August when the outside temps get close or into the triple digits.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 07:26 AM   #68
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcd View Post
Sorry, looked like flux on the T weld. I like gas better, It's faster
No problem, the brown looking crust can give the illusion of a flux but trust me flux-core wire will never appear like those pictured. Flux-core wire will be much darker and the flux will be very hard to get off of the weld, not like a SMAW (shielded metal arc weld) or "stick weld" as it is referred to where the flux flakes right off revealing a nice smooth weld underneathe. It will also not be quite as smooth and consistant, just some of the inherent characteristics of flux-core wire. This is also why you will not see manufacturers of components using flux-core wire. Flux-core is more of the inexpensive, home hobbiest wire for those cutting cost and not able to invest in the gas tank, regulator and hoses for a gas setup. I highly recommend to those using flux-core and getting frustrated with their weld quality to try to save up and invest in a gas bottle and regulator as your welds will quickly show improvement.

On a side note, many people think the brown/copper coating on the MIG wire is for corrosion protection while the wire is on the spool. It is actually put on the wire during the manufacturing process. Manufacturers had found they were wearing out the dies rather quickly while producing solid core welding wire. They found that by using a copper coating that the copper was actually lubricating the dies and helping them to last longer. During the welding process this light copper coating will float to the top of the weld pool as the brown crust in the above pictures.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 07:29 AM   #69
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by snochick View Post
I want your garage. As a mechanic myself, your garage is making me freaking drool. Nice build write-up too. Last time I built one it was a TJ. So don't mind me if I steel some of your ideas. You've obviously read up on a JK a lot more than I have. I've had the thing for a year and been pretty lazy on my research till I ordered the lift.
Thanks. I don't mind one bit of using some of my ideas, that is why I am posting them, trying to help others out if I can and learn myself along the way.

By the way, I just noticed that you are a new forum member. Welcome.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 07:54 AM   #70
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Moving right along with some update pictures from this weekends work. Here is the start of the corners. I was able to use my CAD (cardboard aided design) again for templates. Once I got the shape I was after in cardboard, I traced it to the metal and cut them out on my bandsaw.

Here is the design I chose for the corners. A one bend flat corner would have been much easier and faster to produce but I didn't like the square, boxy look that it gave. I chose a profile that had a couple of bends on both axis for a more triangulated/angled look.


Taking your time and making accurate cuts for a close fitup of parts is paramount for a precise weld. Also, keeping the welds as confined and consistant as possible makes it easier to round off and blend with a flap disk rather than having to get really aggressive with a grinding disk.


Overview after blending with a flap disk yet prior to starting the swing-out tire carrier.


Here is a closeup of the blended welds/corners. One thing that I did different on this bumper from the previous two bumpers that I have built is that I used my little sheet metal brake to put some bends in the steel. On previous bumpers I had cut each section seperate and welded which netted a similar outcome but this way of bending where I can contributes to much less welding which also means less grinding and quite possibly a better overall result with less effort.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 08:13 AM   #71
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Moving on to the tire carrier portion of the bumper/carrier build.

Here is the pivot point. I purchased a pivot kit from A to Z Fabrication which consisted of a spindle mount, tube, two bearing/races, washer, nut and bearing cap. Once I chose the location for the pivot point so it would not come in contact with the tailgate I also fabricated a plate that would serve two purposes. First, it would span the weld joint from two seperate pieces and spread the load out more evenly without chance of cracking down the road from repeated flexing, and secondly it will provide a place to add a 1/2" hole to act as a detent for the swing away stop. The plate is 1/4" steel.


Here is a better view of the plate with the pivot as well as a weld-on push pin that I obtained from McMaster Carr for the swing away lock. I thought the large black plastic knob would add to the aesthetics of the overall design. This push-pin has a detent that will allow it to be in the up position and/or in the lower position so it will drop into the 1/2" hole in the gusset plate and keep the tire carrier from swinging all the way around and hitting the right side of the Jeep. I also added some gussets and support to the underside of the bumper at the pivot point and tied them into the frame mount. Hopefully this will provide many years of support without cracking due to flex as the carrier opens/closes.


Test fit of the crossbar so I can determine a location for the locking hasp on the driver's side as well as confirm placement of the pivot before continuing.


Here is the upright for the tire mount as well as some gusseting for triangulation.


Another close up of one of my welds.


Test fit with the tire for confirmation before continuing. I also wanted to measure for clearance on the backside. I want to fabricate a holder for my Hi-Lift jack on the backside of the tire. I will have more detailed pictures of that once I download the camera again. I finished it up late last night but didn't get a chance to download the camera.


Thanks for looking.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 11:28 AM   #72
Jeeper
 
07XMan2Door's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: colorado
Posts: 1,691
Very nice Mike. Looks factory to me. I'm sure it's better/stronger built tho. I'm in the process of building ft & rear bumpers myself. After seeing your design, skill level & attention to detail, I may have to find another forum to post it up on, lol.

Yours looks totally pro man.
07XMan2Door is offline   Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 11:37 AM   #73
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07XMan2Door View Post
Very nice Mike. Looks factory to me. I'm sure it's better/stronger built tho. I'm in the process of building ft & rear bumpers myself. After seeing your design, skill level & attention to detail, I may have to find another forum to post it up on, lol.

Yours looks totally pro man.
Thanks.

Don't be bashful about posting up pictures. Mine are not perfect but a lot better than my first couple. You have to start somewhere, nothing to be ashamed of.

I look forward to seeing pictures.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 09:21 AM   #74
Jeeper
 
jmcd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 195
Images: 1
Nice job on the layout of the bottom corners Mike! That's a tricky one!
Gotta question for ya. Did you do anything special for a "break in" on your new 5.38s? What puzzles me is, there is no break in for gears on new vehicles that I have ever been told, yet I see a lot of buzz on break in for newly installed gears.
__________________
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles,The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena,whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood
jmcd is offline   Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 10:31 AM   #75
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcd View Post
Nice job on the layout of the bottom corners Mike! That's a tricky one!
Gotta question for ya. Did you do anything special for a "break in" on your new 5.38s? What puzzles me is, there is no break in for gears on new vehicles that I have ever been told, yet I see a lot of buzz on break in for newly installed gears.
Thanks. You're right, that lower corner piece took me a couple of tries in cardboard before I ever transferred the dimensions to steel. Thinking in three dimensional bends is harder than you would think.

As far as gears go, it's funny they never mention to you about breaking in the gears on a new vehicle. My opinion on that is they mention about breaking in the engine and by doing that you inherently go easy on the gears in the process.

Gears are "lapped" in after machining by the manufacturer however, they are at far less pressures and temperatures than in the vehicle. The manufacturers also apply a phosphorus coating which helps protect the gears somewhat during the break but the heat and pressure is mainly what "work harden" the gears during the break-in process. Another reason to perform the 500 mile service is to remove those fine metal particles and the phosporus coating that is now suspended in the lubricant.

When I replace gears I tell people to avoid interstate speeds for about the first 100 miles and break up that first 100 miles into about two to three short trips allowing everything to cool in between. After that no "hot-rodding" or towing for the first 500 miles. Just drive it normal as you would on a daily basis. At 500 miles I "recommend" servicing the differential by removing the cover and inspecting the gears and changing the fluid. New gears come machined obviously, but the "fine" machining or meshing of the parts takes place once they are installed in the differential and get run-in together. This is similar to a new engine.

I say I "recommend" servicing the differential @ 500 miles because a small percentage of the rear ends that I have built ever see that five-hundred mile service. Most people drive off with new gears and figure no noise everything must be great and keep on driving. Some differentials as sad as it is to say will NEVER be serviced in their life span.

I do have a select few people that bring their vehicle back and have me service them but that is not the norm.

I engrave dimensions on the ring gear when I set up a new R&P for future referrence besided taking detailed notes and when I perform a service I double check those specifications.

After installing my gears I drove to work and home which is about a 20 minute drive one way. I did this for five days and a little running around in between. I had about 200 miles on it before I hit the interstate and then drove conservatily until I hit my first service.

When I did my 500 mile service (which was actually closer to 600 than 500), I removed the differential cover and double checked the rotating torque, which always seems to drop about an inch pound or so, and then throw a torque wrench on the carrier caps to double check them and then a dial indicator to verify backlash, which doesn't change in that few of miles if assembled correctly.

I sprayed and wiped out the housing to remove any and all fine particles from the run-in stage and reassemble with fresh lubricant. I now have approx. 4300 trouble free miles on the new gears.

Hope that helps.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 11:23 AM   #76
Jeeper
 
jmcd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 195
Images: 1
Yes Thanks Mike. I read the same thing on the new vehicle.
Did you do anything special to run in the front gears, like so many miles in 4WH?
__________________
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles,The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena,whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood
jmcd is offline   Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 03:21 PM   #77
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcd View Post
Yes Thanks Mike. I read the same thing on the new vehicle.
Did you do anything special to run in the front gears, like so many miles in 4WH?
No nothing other than drive it. The first couple of times I used four wheel drive I paid attention not to load them too awfully heavy and not shock load them such as spinning the tires and grabbing traction. Just mild wheeling at a consistant load.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 03:56 PM   #78
Jeeper
 
jmcd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 195
Images: 1
Ok, Thanks Mike!
__________________
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles,The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena,whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood
jmcd is offline   Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 07:20 AM   #79
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Here is a Hi-Lift jack mouting plate that I fabbed up for mounting on the tire carrier.


Another one of my welds, this one from the Hi-Lift mounting bracket.


Here is the last shot of the completed bumper/carrier assembly prior to powder coating. This shot has the 4" LED lights cut in and mounted along with the "D" ring attachment points welded in place.


Another view.


Here is the tramp stamp that I cut out of 11 gauge P&O steel. It will be powder coated as well and then my CB antenna mount will mount using two of the existing bolts on the upper right hand corner.



As of yesterday all of the parts are at the powder coater. The bumper, tire carrier and the Hi-Lift jack mounting bracket are being coated in the black wrinkle finish and the tramp stamp and center tire mounting bracket are being coated in just gloss black.

I was originally going to cut the OEM third brake light and weld a flat plate to the bottom and then an attachment point on the top of the tire carrier for the 3rd brake light. However, two issues I ran into. First, and most importantly the OEM brake light was not tall enough because I tried to mount the tire as low as possible yet still allow enough room at the bumper cutout to allow the fitment of a 37" tire IF I ever decide to run that large of a tire. Don't know if I ever will, just planning ahead in case I decide to.

Secondly, I mounted the tire right up to the tire carrier and didn't space it out like some of the carriers I have seen. By having the OEM 3rd brake light coming up the backside of the tire there would not have been enough room for my Hi-Lift jack mount. The wife didn't think it was any big deal to mount the jack on the rear and just leave it under the back seat where I usually carry it. I informed her that if I needed to use it and it was muddy/dirty I did not want to put it back under the rear seat. She commented to me saying "I thought this was a Jeep." I didn't see the humor in it like she did.

I don't know about everyone else but I think the only time I will actually carry the Hi-Lift is when I am heading off road. Just driving around daily back and forth to work I don't think the jack will be on the carrier.

I will post completed pictures of the finished product when I get the parts back from powder coating next week.

Thanks for looking.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 07:57 AM   #80
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
After dropping off the parts to the powder coater yesterday I decided to address another issue, or potential issue rather. One thing I have noticed first hand on the JK's as well as read a lot about is the poorly designed transfer case (TC) shift cable attachment points. The bushings that are used are plastic of all things and they do not last as well as the cable is a bit anemic in size in my opinion.

I have helped people with this issue both on the trail and at campgrounds when shifting their Jeeps TC so they can be flat towed. My thinking is that I am going to be going off-road quite a bit plus I flat tow our JKU behind our motorcoach so I don't want to one of the ones having issues.

If you don't go off-road much or flat tow and not shifting your transfer case much it is doubtful you will ever have an issue, however, if you are the other end of the scale then in my opinion it is not a matter of IF, but rather a matter of WHEN you experience this failure. I don't want to have others waiting on me while I am unhooking from our coach and the cable or bushing decides to check out or worse out on the trail and have the thing go south on me just as a line of other off-roaders is behind me and I shift from one range to the other.

I did some research and decided to give the Advance Adapters JK cable upgrade kit a try. Overall I am very impressed with not only the quality of the components in this kit but also the engineering and thought that went into this. Not only did they replace the wimpy plastic bushings but the shift cable is beefed up along with a heat treatment on the cable where it resides next to the engine, trans and exhaust and the plastic pivot point on the shifter itself is replaced with a billet aluminum block that should hold up very well under even the most extreme conditions. An added bonus is that when all reassembled the console and shifter look completely stock and nothing can be detected as to the contrary.

The Advance Adapters kit part number is 715596. Here is a link to the installation instructions for those who wish to browse the contents and contemplate one for yourself.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/downloads/715596.pdf

Here is how it showed up in the box. Everything required is in the kit with the exception of the tools and the kit can be installed with basic hand tools so nothing special is required. If you have even the most basic mechanical abilities I believe you could install one.


I will briefly point out a couple of things that the instructions were not clear on and I found out through trial and error.

First off, the TC shift knob must be removed, it states this in the literature but says to pull up on the knob. The knob is REALLY on there. I found that by using a pair of vise grips under the knob adjusted so they are not tight or even touching the shift lever but more just sized so they fit square on the underside of the knob and then a couple of smacks with a soft faced mallet and the knob pops right off.

Next, only three nuts are visible as the attachment points for the shifter lever assembly. There are FOUR attachment points. The fourth is under this cover which must be removed. There are four small tabs, two on each side, that must be released to remove the cover. The tabs can be pushed on slightly with a flat bladed screwdriver with little effort and then the sliding cover lifted up and off of the lever.


Here is the nut that I am referring to, pointing to with a screwdriver. It requires a 10mm socket just as the other three do.


The front driveshaft and front yoke must be removed to gain access to the T40 bolt head. Chrystler used A LOT of red locktight on this bolt. Use a heat gun to soften the locktight and allow removal of this bolt. Failure to heat the locktight first could result in a broken bolt. They supply a new 8mm hex head bolt in the kit and I used blue locktight rather than the red for this application. Caution using too much heat as there is a seal just behind this bracket that could be damaged if not paying attention.

Here is a picture of the bracket and bolt. You can see how much red locktight the bolt has on it.


One last picture. This is of the new billet aluminum block (right) compared to the plastic one on the left. Excellent quality.


Other than the few items mentioned the instructions are pretty clear and they have actual pictures rather than drawings made by a pre-schooler. I highly recommend this kit if you are one who finds yourself shifting your transfer case a lot.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 08:03 AM   #81
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Asheboro, Nc
Posts: 44
Images: 2
You've got some beautiful welds, and I can appreciate the old school cad program. lol
__________________
You've got to enjoy a red tux with an orange cumberbun!
YJ dad is offline   Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 08:29 AM   #82
Jeeper
 
Chicago's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northbrook IL
Posts: 20
Excellent work on your JK, enjoying watching your progression in a fantastic build.
Chicago is offline   Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 08:53 AM   #83
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by YJ dad View Post
You've got some beautiful welds, and I can appreciate the old school cad program. lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicago View Post
Excellent work on your JK, enjoying watching your progression in a fantastic build.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. I am having a blast building this thing and want to share the progress with others as well as possibly spark some interest for others to tackle more on their own.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 10:40 PM   #84
Jeeper
 
snochick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,111
Images: 2
I'm anxiously awaiting to see your final product on that rear bumper you've got. I was just sitting outside staring at mine while having a smoke thinking "I wonder if there's somehow I could mount my hi-lift in with the spare tire somehow". Then i jump on here and decided to take a peak and see what else you've done this week. lol, not surprised at all that you figured something out. Wish I could fabricate something up like that, but welding is something I don't do.
snochick is offline   Quote
Old 04-26-2012, 09:24 AM   #85
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicago View Post
Excellent work on your JK, enjoying watching your progression in a fantastic build.
I just noticed that you are new to the forum. Welcome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snochick View Post
I'm anxiously awaiting to see your final product on that rear bumper you've got. I was just sitting outside staring at mine while having a smoke thinking "I wonder if there's somehow I could mount my hi-lift in with the spare tire somehow". Then i jump on here and decided to take a peak and see what else you've done this week. lol, not surprised at all that you figured something out. Wish I could fabricate something up like that, but welding is something I don't do.
My bumper should be back from the powder coater on either Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. I will definately post up some pictures of the completed assembly. I will also post up a couple close-ups of the Hi-Lift jack mounting bracket so you can see how it attaches. I have the foot as close to the pivot point as possible to keep most of the weight at the pivot.

On a side note, if you want to build your own mounting bracket I am sure there are plenty of qualified weldors in your area that would either build a bracket for you or if you cut the pieces and get them prepped I would bet someone would weld them up.

Ask around your local parts stores for any recommendations as to a weldor in the area. I get quite a few people that contact me to weld a simple little part here and there. When I ask where they got my name I have been surprised that my local NAPA store has given them my number.

Just a tought if you want something a little different compared to purchasing a mass produced part/bracket.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-30-2012, 08:20 AM   #86
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
While waiting for my bumper to come back from powder coating I decided to tackle two items. First off, the original owner mounted the Hella Optilux lights on the windshield hinges and although he did a good job of mounting the lights, he did a very poor job on the wiring and the switch mounting. He had merely cut two holes in the panel under the steering wheel and added two switches and they did not fit worth the damn. He also had merely tapped into other wires with the POS 3-M Scotchlock connectors. . I do NOT like this type of wire tap. I beleive in solder and heat shrink.

I cut and soldered the connections and added heat shrink so I should never have an issue down the road. I also added the Daystar rocker switch panel in the center under the A/C and heater controls. I then ordered a new interior panel from Chrystler and installed that to replace the one that had holes cut in it. I am finally happy with the interior and switch setup.

While I was doing wiring I ran the wires for my LED backup lights that will reside in my rear bumper. I also added some LED rock lights. I ran the wires down the inside of the frame rails to keep them completely hidden and away from the possibility of getting caught on something when off-roading.

Mike.

Here is a picture of the small LED rock lights and the mounting brackets that I fabricated. The lights are not all that bright like some of the more expensive LEDs out there but they are just enough to assist when wheeling at night or it will look cool to turn them on once in a while. The wife thinks I am crazy. Oh well, I like them.


Rear brackets with LEDs mounted on them ready for installation.


Rears mounted where old muffler heat shield used to be.


Mid-mounted lights. These are mounted just under the rock rails and the wiring is ran into the frame rails.


Front rock lights. These are mounted just behind the front swaybar and lengthwise with the frame rails. The mounting brackets are the same width as the frame rails so they will not be a catch for dirt/mud/grime and the wiring is able to blend in with the factory wiring.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 04-30-2012, 03:28 PM   #87
Newb
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 7
Mike,

Your attention to detail and organization don't go unnoticed! Amazing shop and amazing work!

-Jesli
JeepAllister is offline   Quote
Old 04-30-2012, 04:03 PM   #88
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepAllister View Post
Mike,

Your attention to detail and organization don't go unnoticed! Amazing shop and amazing work!

-Jesli
Thank you, and again, welcome to the forum.

Mike.
__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 05-01-2012, 09:55 AM   #89
Jeeper
 
zmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 651
Last night I decided to add a little extra security to my Destaco toggle clamp for my tire carrier. I don't want it to swing open unexpectedly if the clamp decides to pop open.

I welded two little stainless steel tabs onto the toggle clamp, one above and one below to put the clamp in double shear, and drilled a 3/16" hole through in order to install a 3/16" push pin with a cable lanyard to it. This way it ensures the toggle clamp will stay in the clamped position.

Mike.



One of the welds.

__________________
2011 JKU Rubicon
BDS Long-Arm System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Plus much, much more.

Click here to see my 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread
zmotorsports is offline   Quote
Old 05-02-2012, 01:07 AM   #90
Jeeper
 
07XMan2Door's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: colorado
Posts: 1,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by zmotorsports View Post
Last night I decided to add a little extra security to my Destaco toggle clamp for my tire carrier. I don't want it to swing open unexpectedly if the clamp decides to pop open.

I welded two little stainless steel tabs onto the toggle clamp, one above and one below to put the clamp in double shear, and drilled a 3/16" hole through in order to install a 3/16" push pin with a cable lanyard to it. This way it ensures the toggle clamp will stay in the clamped position.

Mike.



One of the welds.
Great idea. What can't you weld?? Stainless & aluminum are out of my league. Your build is so inspiring. Can't wait to see it back from the PC shop.
Finished my front bumper today. Just put the last coat of paint on it. Can't wait to asemble it in the am. Looks a bit Neanderthal compared to yours tho. But I like it a lot.

I'll check for your pics tomorrow!
Again, awesome work.

07XMan2Door is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What I did to my YJ today 1990_YJ YJ General Discussion Forum 12106 Today 04:04 PM
What I did to my TJ today TJeepman TJ General Discussion Forum 31813 Today 09:43 AM
Looks like my roof is leaking - '12 Sahara adg44 JK General Discussion Forum 34 11-02-2013 05:34 PM
CA: 2012 JKU Suspension and Driveshaft suicideking Classifieds Archive 6 09-12-2012 01:21 AM
first real drive in my yj with a clutch issue olbaid_83 YJ Tech Forum 13 03-04-2012 10:36 AM



Download our Mobile App

» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:26 PM.


User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2015 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC