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Old 03-31-2013, 12:58 PM   #31
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Wired up my locker override switches and my esp override switch. The ESP switch can be disabled any time. The lockers are run through the keyed switch so the keyed switch has to be turned on before the switches will work. Im pretty happy with the functionality, but im not all that satisfied with how the switch panel turned out. I may still have to find a different way to handle that. I really want something more factory looking.
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2013 JK - Metalcloak 3.5" coils and control arms, Bilstein 5160s, Prorock44, Synergy high steer, drag link, track bar and tie rod, PSC hydro assist, RCV front shafts, Reid knuckles, TEN factory rear shafts, 4.88s, 37" MTR, Tom Woods front and rear, antirock front and rear, etc.

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Old 04-06-2013, 02:43 PM   #32
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Excellent Jeep.

Drooling over axle choice, but you're doing it right, that's for sure. Strong foundation!

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Old 04-21-2013, 10:34 AM   #33
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A couple of changes to the build have come up. Based on the 12 week lead time for Shrock Works sliders, I think im going to go with the White Knuckle sliders instead. They look pretty similar and only have a 3 week lead time. Ive also settled on just doing the rockhard engine and tranny skid for now instead of a full system. I dont think ill really need that much added protection on the bottom for the type of wheeling ive got planned. Hoping my Zeon 10-s comes in before the jeeps shake down run at Silver Lake next weekend!

Got the River Raider expedition snorkel all mounted up. I still have to connect everything under the hood for it before its functional. Im still waiting for some silicone to cure on the airbox before its ready to be finished off. I opted not to use the battery relocation kit for now and the hose still seems to fit and make its bends ok.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:40 AM   #34
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Love the rig... Looks like you have put a ton of thought into your particular components. I'm just starting my build and a I'm going to move forward with the AEV RS 4.5, and I have a few questions on your thought process for your build.

~ Exhaust spacers plus TW drive line. Has this given you the clearance you desired? If you had gone with the 4.5 would you have had to add additional clearance?

~ Are your using the AEV drop brackets included with that kit? I'm assuming not since you went with MC front control arms and new axle. What drove you to this decision?

~ I see you replaced some of the components of the RS kit with Synergy items. Again... what motivated your decision here?

~ Hows the road ride?
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:01 PM   #35
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Thanks man, its definitely been a process...

This is my first wrangler, and im not an expert so consider this just one inexperienced guys opinion.

The exhaust spacers plus the tom woods up front gives me enough clearance. Im not sure how much additional clearance would be necessary for the 4.5", but if I had to take a guess id say it would clear as well. I had originally intended on just going with a different front driveshaft, but at the advice of the shop doing much of my work, I had them add in the spacers as well.

I am not using the AEV brackets. I originally intended to, but again, at the advice of my shop opted not to. The prorock44 unlimited with caster correction and the adjustable control arms got me back to close to stock caster. Im at 4.2 degrees on the left and 4.4 degrees on the right. Pinion angle looks good to me, and I dont have any driveline vibrations, so overall im happy. If I had to do it all over again, id do it the same way.

I have to admit, at one point I kind of jumped on the synergy bandwagon. They make solid stuff. I opted for their stuff in most situations based on strength. It started out as just a bracket replacement, then I added the sector shaft brace, then the trackbar, then the draglink, then the tie rod and ends mainly because id already done everything else and figured I might as well do it all at the same time. The steering stabilizer was because it had some adjustability and I liked the way it relocated. Im still trying to get it dialed in just right (still pushes slightly left on the highway). I just cant find anyone around here that can let 10psi out of a nitrogen shock. It all really just came down to wanting to do it right the first time and not having to worry about breaking/fixing as much stuff down the road. I feel like when im ready to throw 37's at mine, I really dont have to worry about anything.

As a side note, the shop doing my work did buy back some of the unused stuff from my kit as well as my stock front axle housing. So that definitely helped offset a little of the cost and make the decision a little easier. My thought process from the start was to take the AEV lift with its great reputation for ride quality, correct some of its weak points, and address as many of the stock weak points as possible. The ride on the road is great. Its firmer than stock, but eats up bigger bumps much smoother. I daily drive it 60 miles a day and my only complaint is the slight push to the left from the steering stabilizer needing a little nitrogen let out. Even with that, I drive it with two fingers everywhere I go. There is less bumpsteer than stock and it corners much tighter than stock. Body roll is about the same as stock. Next weekend itll hit the dunes for the first time and ill have some more feedback on how everything works in the sand.

Hope that helps, feel free to ask any other questions as they come up!
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:18 PM   #36
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If you can't find someone to let some gas out of your shocks try to find a shop that deals with dirt bikes and such. Lots of those guys are tinkering with it all of the time.

As far as steping up to 37's and not having anything to worry about goes, be sure to keep an eye on your unit bearings.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:26 PM   #37
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Thanks for the tips, WatchThis! Ive tried all the tire shops around here and several of the mechanics but nobody has a way to adjust nitrogen shocks so far. Ill check with some of the bike shops. I know if someone had the kit to do it they could have it done in under 10 minutes.

Im still on the fence with 37's. Every time I look at it I feel like it needs just a little more tire and I think a 37 would make me happy. I know its going to wear out wear items faster if I make the jump. Unit bearings are easy enough to replace so if thats all I end up having to worry about with the front end, ill be happy. This next weekend at the dunes will be a big decider for me. If I find myself getting high centered at all, I think ill be switching to 37's sooner rather than later. If not, I might just stick with 35s. For now...
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:43 AM   #38
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Thanks man, its definitely been a process...

This is my first wrangler, and im not an expert so consider this just one inexperienced guys opinion.

The exhaust spacers plus the tom woods up front gives me enough clearance. Im not sure how much additional clearance would be necessary for the 4.5", but if I had to take a guess id say it would clear as well. I had originally intended on just going with a different front driveshaft, but at the advice of the shop doing much of my work, I had them add in the spacers as well.

I am not using the AEV brackets. I originally intended to, but again, at the advice of my shop opted not to. The prorock44 unlimited with caster correction and the adjustable control arms got me back to close to stock caster. Im at 4.2 degrees on the left and 4.4 degrees on the right. Pinion angle looks good to me, and I dont have any driveline vibrations, so overall im happy. If I had to do it all over again, id do it the same way.

I have to admit, at one point I kind of jumped on the synergy bandwagon. They make solid stuff. I opted for their stuff in most situations based on strength. It started out as just a bracket replacement, then I added the sector shaft brace, then the trackbar, then the draglink, then the tie rod and ends mainly because id already done everything else and figured I might as well do it all at the same time. The steering stabilizer was because it had some adjustability and I liked the way it relocated. Im still trying to get it dialed in just right (still pushes slightly left on the highway). I just cant find anyone around here that can let 10psi out of a nitrogen shock. It all really just came down to wanting to do it right the first time and not having to worry about breaking/fixing as much stuff down the road. I feel like when im ready to throw 37's at mine, I really dont have to worry about anything.

As a side note, the shop doing my work did buy back some of the unused stuff from my kit as well as my stock front axle housing. So that definitely helped offset a little of the cost and make the decision a little easier. My thought process from the start was to take the AEV lift with its great reputation for ride quality, correct some of its weak points, and address as many of the stock weak points as possible. The ride on the road is great. Its firmer than stock, but eats up bigger bumps much smoother. I daily drive it 60 miles a day and my only complaint is the slight push to the left from the steering stabilizer needing a little nitrogen let out. Even with that, I drive it with two fingers everywhere I go. There is less bumpsteer than stock and it corners much tighter than stock. Body roll is about the same as stock. Next weekend itll hit the dunes for the first time and ill have some more feedback on how everything works in the sand.

Hope that helps, feel free to ask any other questions as they come up!
Thanks for the info... Honestly a sound build and I'm a fan of the MC CAs. Doing most of the work my self so ill probably stick with most of the AEV kit to start. But I gave to say I think I'm heading down your build path.... Makes sense to me. I'll have to read up on the prorock... As I don't have a lot of knowledge about those axels. Thanks for the info... I may shoot you a question or two as I start my build.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:50 PM   #39
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A couple of updates, im pretty happy with the river raider snorkel. My only complaints are the battery tray is hokey at best. I didnt bother using it at all. Everything still seems to fit with enough clearance without it on the 2013's. Also, the hard tube they provide for connecting the throttle body to the airbox is 9". Its just barely long enough to make things work. The pipe itself is just 3" exhaust pipe thats been powdercoated. I ended up going down to a local exhaust shop and having them cut me a piece 12" instead. That gave me a lot more confidence in the hose clamps actually holding. For the extra $1 it would cost River Raider, im not sure why they dont send a slightly longer piece. All that said, I love the way it looks and so far its done its job of giving me a little peace of mind:

I ended up flipping my rear end links inboard of the sway bar since the driver side end link was making contact with the tire at full droop with them outboard. I ground the bump stops down a bit for clearance to make sure the links wouldnt contact them. So far so good with that.

I managed to stuff the driver side front far enough into the fender that the tire grabbed the inner fender and popped 4 of the clips off the fender. Only one of them broke, so it should be a cheap easy fix. Although one of the stupid little plastic clips from the dealer is about $8.

Ive concluded that the 35's arent going to last for the long haul. Im going to need some 37's. But before that im going to get everything done with the rear driveshaft, control arms, and axle shafts. Once thats done ill get some flat fenders installed. Then will come gears (leaning more toward 4.56 now) and the 37's. I dont think id like the 37's with the 4.10's in the sand. On the road im sure theyd be fine.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:58 PM   #40
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After the last dune trip and all the playing in the water I checked the rear diff to find it way overfilled. And with the color and consistency of green chocolate milk. I drained almost 3 quarts out of it and filled it back up with 2 quarts of 75-140. That prompted me to expedite my breather extensions/relocations. I got the front diff, rear diff, and transmission breathers tied together near the battery in the engine compartment. The transfer case was a little bit of a challenge to get to from the top so I think im going to just pick up some new line and rerun it to make it easier to work with. For now I think its safe where its at behind the engine.

I tore all the carpet out tonight, got all the doors off for the first time, installed my harley mirror, and got it ready to hit the dunes again this weekend. Took a pic before I took the top off to show how its sitting today.

I caught my first major rock at about 5750 miles and have a nice 2" diameter star shaped crack right in my line of sight. It was just a matter of time I guess...

Settled on the Ace rear bumper I think, but im not liking the 8-9 week lead time they quoted. Need to do something soon as far as the rear bumper and rock rails go.

Each day I kick myself a little more for getting 35's and not going straight to 37's. Im thinking it would look a LOT better with some 37's under it.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:50 PM   #41
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After the last dune trip and all the playing in the water I checked the rear diff to find it way overfilled. And with the color and consistency of green chocolate milk....
green chocolate milk... water?
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:48 PM   #42
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green chocolate milk... water?
Yea, thats my guess. The factory fill is kind of a greenish color for some reason. Add some water, and it ends up a weird grayish/greenish/brownish color.

We hit the dunes again last weekend and after checking things out at home, one of my diff breather tubes had overflowed up the breather into the filter id put at the top of the lines. Id always seen people saying connecting all the breathers together is a bad idea for that reason, but never thought a diff would push fluid that far up. They can, and do! Hopefully not much made it back down into the transmission. Needless to say, ill be splitting the breather lines back up before the next offroad trip.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:12 PM   #43
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If your pushing oil out the axle breather tube your axle is overfilled.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:12 PM   #44
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Got my winch installed this weekend; still waiting on a thimble for it. Rear bumper has been ordered, its just a matter of waiting for it to be built/shipped. Ended up going with the Ace pro series. After a bit of trail riding that had a lot of switchbacks and tight turns, i'm adding a ram assist to the build list before the 37's go on. Also ordered a few little things, diff cover, etc that should be arriving this week. Finally can make a little more progress!
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:41 AM   #45
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Awesome build! Just needs 37s!

I also have the AEV 3.5 and have wanted 37s since the day I lifted it. I'm looking at getting the Metalcloak arms too to minimize the trimming in the back but you should be all set. I also need a new front track bar and have been looking at the Synergy so our builds will probably be real similar. Is there any reason you didn't go with Metalcloak for your TB and steering?
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:54 PM   #46
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Awesome build! Just needs 37s!

I also have the AEV 3.5 and have wanted 37s since the day I lifted it. I'm looking at getting the Metalcloak arms too to minimize the trimming in the back but you should be all set. I also need a new front track bar and have been looking at the Synergy so our builds will probably be real similar. Is there any reason you didn't go with Metalcloak for your TB and steering?
Thanks! Definitely needs the 37's...I just want to build up a little more first.

I was considering the metalcloak trackbar, too. I liked the idea of the duroflex joints on both ends. The metalcloak setup is geared towards lots of up travel and doesn't typically utilize a high steer type setup. Since I already had decided on a high steer setup, beefing up most of the brackets with synergy components, and adding the synergy sector shaft brace, it just made sense to go with the synergy trackbar as well. My shop recommended that as well and mentioned there may be issues installing the metalcloak trackbar with the high steer setup. It looks pretty similar to me so I'm not sure that it wouldn't work, but that's why I went the route I did.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:24 PM   #47
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Prolink compliments of the Northridge 4x4 Fourth of July deal...
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:29 PM   #48
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Got the ARB rear cover installed tonight:
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:23 PM   #49
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Can I ask what you do for a living
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:29 AM   #50
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Can I ask what you do for a living
Im a systems engineer focussed mainly in storage, virtualization, and backups.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:05 PM   #51
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Looking great bud!! I just picked up my 100% stock 2013 Black Wrangler unlimited 4 door sport. Decisions Decisions. Too bad I didn't know you when you removed those rubicon tires and wheels..lol. I'd love to pick your brain on ideas for tires/wheels and lifts for this baby.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:26 PM   #52
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Wired up my locker override switches and my esp override switch. The ESP switch can be disabled any time. The lockers are run through the keyed switch so the keyed switch has to be turned on before the switches will work. Im pretty happy with the functionality, but im not all that satisfied with how the switch panel turned out. I may still have to find a different way to handle that. I really want something more factory looking.
I was going to ask you a while back if you ever did anything different with your switches? If not you might want to look up 12volt guy, he does some top notch custom work
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:33 PM   #53
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Looking great bud!! I just picked up my 100% stock 2013 Black Wrangler unlimited 4 door sport. Decisions Decisions. Too bad I didn't know you when you removed those rubicon tires and wheels..lol. I'd love to pick your brain on ideas for tires/wheels and lifts for this baby.
I wouldve made you a decent deal for sure! Feel free to ask any questions in this thread. Chances are, ill get a better understanding of things by explaining them and others can chime in on the stuff I dont know.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:39 PM   #54
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I was going to ask you a while back if you ever did anything different with your switches? If not you might want to look up 12volt guy, he does some top notch custom work
I still havent done anything with them. For now im just living with the daystar panel. Its not all that elegant and id definitely prefer a more oem type switch panel but its working for now. I wish Jeep would just put a blank panel in for switches from the factory or something. Thanks for the heads up on 12 volt guy. Ill check his stuff out!
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:17 PM   #55
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I managed to stuff the driver side front far enough into the fender that the tire grabbed the inner fender and popped 4 of the clips off the fender. Only one of them broke, so it should be a cheap easy fix. Although one of the stupid little plastic clips from the dealer is about $8.
This is surprising to me, did you use the AEV bump stops up front? I've heard of a few people running 37s on the AEV 3.5 lift without issue and the 4.5 even recommends 37s and uses the same bump stops. Do you think maybe you're just getting that much more flex with the MC arms?
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:26 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by automaticSuperstatic View Post
This is surprising to me, did you use the AEV bump stops up front? I've heard of a few people running 37s on the AEV 3.5 lift without issue and the 4.5 even recommends 37s and uses the same bump stops. Do you think maybe you're just getting that much more flex with the MC arms?
Yep, its the AEV bumpstops in the front. Ive made contact with the flares on a few occasions. Enough that im cautious about it and watching out for it now. The first time I was full stuff on the driver front, almost full droop on passenger front, full stuff passenger rear, and the driver side rear was in the air. I was turning maybe 50% right when the tire grabbed the flare and popped a few of the clips loose. Ive made contact with the passenger side front flare while dropping the driver side front down into holes on a couple of occasions. If I had 37"s right now, im fairly certain they would have torn the flares completely off more than once.

FWIW, ive always been aired down and had the sway bar disconnected when ive made contact with the flares. If you dont ever disconnect the sway bar, that in itself would probably prevent most if not all of the issues with 35's. That combined with a taller spring (assuming the 4.5" springs have an extra coil or two) might be enough to keep 37's out of the flares, too. A lot of the more common 37's are 12.50 wide and not 13.50 like my duratracs and that may help, too.

I do love the metalcloak arms and they may be contributing a small amount as well, but I really cant see anyone being able to flex out the 3.5 with 37's without tearing off a flare.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:24 PM   #57
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I always disconnect and never rub. Even though I have the notoriously small km2s I bet the difference just has to do with the 13.5 width. I have the same wheels as you so it's not a difference in offset. Dang, there seems to be so much room up front I thought for sure I could throw on some 37s but you're making me have doubts. I wasn't wanting to get new fenders too! Maybe you're right and people just don't disconnect.
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Old 07-31-2013, 02:24 PM   #58
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Dont let me stop you! Toss some 37's on there and see if it fits (and let me know!). Ive been hesitant to jump to 37's before doing the flat fenders (and the gears, but more so the fenders). I also just barely rub my control arms when im aired down. Not enough to be an issue other than it polishes the finish off the arms. Im hoping that the 37's dont give me any further clearance issues there either.

On unrelated notes, my chirping water pump was replaced at the dealer today, and 130lb's of UPS goodness just showed up! Its gonna be a long night!
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:12 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spieg
Dont let me stop you! Toss some 37's on there and see if it fits (and let me know!). Ive been hesitant to jump to 37's before doing the flat fenders (and the gears, but more so the fenders). I also just barely rub my control arms when im aired down. Not enough to be an issue other than it polishes the finish off the arms. Im hoping that the 37's dont give me any further clearance issues there either.

On unrelated notes, my chirping water pump was replaced at the dealer today, and 130lb's of UPS goodness just showed up! Its gonna be a long night!
This thread interests me a great deal, as I will, after my upcoming marriage in Nov., be purchasing a '12 or '13 JKUR, and I am currently looking at the AEV 4.5 RS with AEV Pinter and 37s or 38s (with either ACE of Poison Spyder fenders). I am also looking at the ACE rear bumper and sliders and a Fab Fours Stubby with Bull bar and winch. I will take it easy on the trails initially, and as time and my wallet allow, I will upgrade with Synergy components and sleeve and gusset my 44s, along with gears 4.88 or 5.13 behind my 6 speed. My question with regard to my lift (4.5 AEV) and fenders is what can I fit? Are 37s the limit, or can extended control arms out back afford space for 38 or even 40s? Bear in mind that I wouldn't rule out trimming/motivating inner fenders and a 1" body lift. This will not be my daily driver, as I am fortunate to have a company vehicle. It will be used to go topless on pretty days here in NC and I will drive to Western NC and Eastern Tennessee a few times each year for trails. The knowledge and experience of everyone on this board is greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:20 PM   #60
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Hope the thread can help! If youre seriously planning on 40's, I think you'd probably be best to skip building up the d44's and plan on some heavier duty axles. Even after building the d44's they still may not handle any abuse from a set of 40's. Im not positive as ive never really looked into whats required for running 40's, but my guess is youll be doing more than a little bit of trimming on the fenders as well. Definitely sounds like a fun build!

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