I got a lil jealous of the wife's Nav and decided I "need" one haah. Atleast my screen is bigger. And when she tells me to get lost, I can find my way back.
The disk is from the cellphone holder that I had been using as my GPS. Because of the screw I can't mount it in the center.
The base fits perfectly and this stays when I hide the unit from prying eyes.
With the Garmin 2797 attached. I will looking to hard wire a cord in this spring.
here it is mounted on the glass. I can center it and drop it a lil lower.
Found some great deals at a pawnshop for a change. A 10" MB Quart QM 250.92 sub and an Alpine 3522s amp. Both looked brand new, the amp had all the cables still sealed in the factory tape bags. Wil have to wait until warmer days (we got 7" snow with 3-4ft drifts)
Got the other grabarm on, this time I listened to the instructions. Sprayed the threads with some PB blast, threaded the bolts in and out a couple of times and took a 9m barrel brush to clean out the threads. Then stuck in some cloth to get any loose crap and get the majority of the PB out then blue locktite. This side was abit of a pain trying to get both bolts started. Now to do the wifes.
Added the TeraFlex rear adj. trackbar. New alignment sheet.
SmittyBilt Atlas rear bumper and tire carrier
PUTCO fog lamps
Wired in a 3rd brake light in the roof
And the RR Spartan grille, what a PITA (Cutting for LED headlights, turn signal sockets and then squeezing it behind the winch)
Tomorrow the Full Metal Fabworks CB mount is due in. Then I can mount both Gerry cans where one can was getting interfered with the TeraFlex spare tire CB mount
Find the center of the roof section and drill the hole. The RP light has a standoff, so I used a dremmel to have the back flat. Mounted the light using 3M mounting double sided tape. I covered the whole back of the light to seal it to keep water out.
Drill a hole to run the wires through the exterior side of the top. Because the top is double walled, you have to drill a hole on the inside to make connections and to maneuver a wire fish. The use of butt connectors will require a larger interior hole to be drilled in the interior side of the top. It can be plugged afterwards. Once you get the wire inside the cabin, it's time to get to the wiring inside the tub.
Take the plastics off the inside of the tailgate. You will see a connector with a dark grey and white with black stripe wires that go to the stock 3rd brake light wiring. This and the wires that go to the exterior to the actual light will be reused. Snip the end of the wiring that is in the tailgate at the connector and pull it through the loom that goes into the tub. Disconnect the wiring from the stock brake light and split the grommet to get the wiring. If you use a razor and make a careful cut, you can reuse it as a plug.
The light wiring is behind the rear interior panel/subwoofer. Remove the panel/subwoofer and follow the wiring to the Jeeps harness. This will be re-ran up the passenger side of the rear window. (pic shows unfinished install)
Take the wiring from the new LED light that is sticking into the cabin and wiring that was hooked up to the light and make the connection. In my particular case, the black wire of the LED light connects to the white/blk wire and the white wire of the LED light connects to the dark grey wire. I used a wire coat hanger to make a wire fish to get the wiring from this hole to the hole that the rear defroster comes out of. Fish the wiring from the LED light (with new extension) to the rear defroster wiring hole. If you want to hide the wiring abit more, you can drill a hole on the hump where the rear glass strut mounts. Then drill a hole at the base of the top where it meets the tub. I took the drill bit and laid it at an angle and chiseled the hole. The hole will be closest to the corner because the strut mount blocks a straight down run. Take the fish and run the wires between the 2 holes. In my case, I have not put in the connector for if/when I take the top off. Make the connection to the tub wiring and wire you just fished through. If you are using any kind of wiring sheathing, put it on before making this connection. (which I forgot to do DOH)
Replace the interior panels and secure the exposed wiring. I sanded the chrome off the bezel and used black paint.
I a few people talk about it, thinking it was a feature of the '16s. I saying from Chip Foose has always stuck in my head, to the effect of "if y ou make a customization and it has people wandering if it should have been there all along, then you did it right"
Do those LEDs attached to the A-Pillar help? Are they worth the cost? I also have a Silver Billet JK and it seems the lights mounted there would cause a great deal of glare off the hood.
I am using the spot beams (not hyper spot or flood), there is a lil bit of hood illumination but not enough to distract. Foods would be a problem though. This summer would should be in our house out in the boonies and lots of deer, I use them to illuminate the sides of the road. Are they worth it, I can't live without them anymore. I'm thinking of getting a 10" flood for bumper mount.
Do those LEDs attached to the A-Pillar help? Are they worth the cost? I also have a Silver Billet JK and it seems the lights mounted there would cause a great deal of glare off the hood.
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