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Old 09-19-2013, 03:48 PM   #1
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1997 wranger Build

At this point I have mounted a 4.3 motor 700r4 tranny with the NP231C transfercase in my 97 TJ.

I want to keep my stock auto shifter, has any one else done this before?

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Old 09-20-2013, 10:20 AM   #2
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Here are some pics of where I am now.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:41 AM   #3
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Aftermarket Gauges

I have created a cad template for the gauge panel. If anyone would like a copy just shoot me an email. What I am doing is using a screen printing place and having it printed onto plexiglass. I am leaving the places where I want light to go thru un colored.
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File Type: pdf Gauge Panel Model (1).pdf (41.5 KB, 73 views)
File Type: pdf Gauge Panel Model (3).pdf (104.5 KB, 41 views)
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:16 PM   #4
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Novak SK2X cable shifter

I installed my Novak SK2X cable shifter to the NP231C transfercase Friday evening. Easy modification to the transfercase bracket. All I had to do is bend the top arm on the bracket and weld a short extention to it. After that it bolted to the factory GM bracket and the side transfercase bolt. See pictures.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:29 PM   #5
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GM fuel Pump

Saturday I changed to fuel pump to a lower pressure fuel pump for throttle body injection. This was a job. Removing the gas tank was easy. Just unbolt the 7 nuts and unplug the wires and fuel lines and take the 4 screws out from around the filler hose. It come out with a little wiggling.
Next loosen the straps. Now unscrew the fuel pump cover to remove the fuel pump.
Now comes the fun part.
To remove the fuel pump you will need to unplug the wire plug at the top.
Now remove the clamp holding the hose at the top.
Next remove the 2 rivits at the bottom of the housing. I used side cutters and cut them off. You may need a file if that does not work.
Once you drive the bottom off you can get to the fuel pump.
The bottom requires some modification. I had to knockout the hole where the filter goes thru and chisel the 4 tabs form the inside.
Now you can put the fuel pump to the inside and the filter on the bottom.
Once you get this done you will want to cut about an inch off the bottom of the aluminum container the fuel pump goes into. Drill 2 new holes and drive the bottom back on.
The reason for cutting an inch off is so you can put feet on the bottom. This will keep the filter from being squashed and not letting fuel pass thru it.
Now just reassemble.
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:15 PM   #6
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Gauge Panel

I got my gauges this week. Started putting them into the plexiglass. Did not realize how big the clamp was. I had to go back and modify the hole cut outs. Here is a new PDF of the plexiglass cut out. If you can print to leagle size paper this drawing should be to scale.
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:16 PM   #7
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Once I get the screen printing done on the plexiglass I will take some pictures and post them.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:57 AM   #8
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Stock Shifter to 700r4

I finally got it hooked up. I had to fab about every peice. I made a swivel assembly that hooks to the shifter and the cable. I had to build a mount to hold the cable bracket to the transmission. See attached pics. I wish I would have taken the pics before I installed the front drive shaft.
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:04 AM   #9
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Transmission Mount 700R4

I got the transmission mount fabbed up over the weekend. I discovered that the holes are off center on the cross member by about 3/4". I cut the mount off the factory GM crossmember and welded a plate to it. See attached pic.
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Old 11-04-2013, 11:00 AM   #10
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I put the factory jeep exhaust back in this weekend and connected it to a modified chevy Y pipe.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:17 PM   #11
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Starting Issues

Finally hooked the battery up. Turn the switch nothing. I traced the wires and discovered the park neutral switch was attached to the transmission. I hooked up a small push button switch to the shifter to make the wire ground when it is in park. Now it will turn over.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:30 PM   #12
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Will not start.

Now that I have the motor turning over I am not getting any spark from the plugs. Not sure what is going on here. The ECM I am using came from the S10 I pulled the motor and transmission from. I am attaching a PDF file of my wiring. If you see a problem please let me know. Thank You, ATSWILSON
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File Type: pdf 1997 TJ with 1991 TBI and 700r4.pdf (51.1 KB, 20 views)
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:31 PM   #13
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Here is the info on the ECM if it helps. 1228062 ATBA
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:48 AM   #14
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I tried another ECM and still no luck. I am going to try and replace the distributor and see if that is the problem.
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:47 PM   #15
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I ordered a new distributer. Should be here this week. After tracing all the wiring this is the only thing left. I will give it a try this weekend.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:45 PM   #16
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Instrument Cluster

I have my instrument cluster assembled. I still need to trim the metal behind it to make the wires fit. I will get another picture after I get it installed.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:50 PM   #17
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I put the new distributer in and hooked everything up. I fried the coil. I discovered there is a short somewhere in the wiring. The tach wire is making continuity to several other wires. Dred it but I am going to have to strip the tape off all the wires to find the problem.
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Old 12-09-2013, 03:08 PM   #18
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finally got it started. I had the 2 white wires crossed going inside to the computer and the Drac module. Switched them out and put another coil on it and she fired right up. Still have to install the instrument cluster then I can take it for a test drive.
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Old 12-12-2013, 05:47 PM   #19
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This is very cool... Looks like a ton of fun
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:37 PM   #20
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Did you make this or buy aftermarket? Thx
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:31 AM   #21
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VDO Gauges Installed

Here are the pictures of my gauges in my jeep.
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:37 AM   #22
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I made this by cutting up the original panel and a piece of Plexiglas. I printed all of my turn signals, check engine light, brake light, 4x4 light onto a piece of clear plastic sheet and put it behind the Plexiglas. I am very happy with it.
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Old 12-20-2013, 01:06 PM   #23
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Lock N Torque in transmission

I drove the jeep to work this morning. The lock and torque is not working. I thought I had it all hooked up properly. Does any one have any ideas on why id does not work. Thanks
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:30 AM   #24
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Hi-Lift Jack

I did a cheap hi-lift attachment to my jeep. Less than $10. I used 2 - 3" Muffler clamps 2 hand screws from Lowes and 2 coupling nuts from Lowes. I had the upper rubber isolators left off my old shocks and used them also.
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:33 AM   #25
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On Board Air

I purchased a 12v compressor from Harbor Freight Tools. I installed it under the hood of my jeep. Works great.
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:48 AM   #26
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I am really diggin this build.
did you ever get the lock-up to function properly?
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:15 AM   #27
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No I have not got the Lock-up working yet. The check engine light has been going on and off. I have 3 trouble codes. 13, 24, & 33. The 13 is probably because I do not have a catalytic converter on it. The 24 is because of the way I have hooked up the park neutral switch. The 33 I have not figured it out yet. I am going to try and trouble shoot it some tonight. Not sure if any of these would cause the lock-up not to work or not.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:31 AM   #28
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have you spent any time on any of the S10 forums to see if they can help you out at all.
I used to spend a lot of time on S-SeriesForum.com - Powered by vBulletin, but as the S10's have gotten older (the newest model year being an 03 and now 11 years old) the traffic there has dwindled dramatically.
another place is www.s10forum.com I dont visit there very often, but last I checked, they do still get quite a bit of traffic. that is the good part, the bad part is the forum seem to be centered around the mini-truck scene with airbag suspensions and the such.

good luck
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:45 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPETE View Post
have you spent any time on any of the S10 forums to see if they can help you out at all.
I used to spend a lot of time on S-SeriesForum.com - Powered by vBulletin, but as the S10's have gotten older (the newest model year being an 03 and now 11 years old) the traffic there has dwindled dramatically.
another place is www.s10forum.com I dont visit there very often, but last I checked, they do still get quite a bit of traffic. that is the good part, the bad part is the forum seem to be centered around the mini-truck scene with airbag suspensions and the such.

good luck
Thanks I will spend some time on them and do a little research.
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Old 01-22-2014, 01:38 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atswilson View Post
No I have not got the Lock-up working yet. The check engine light has been going on and off. I have 3 trouble codes. 13, 24, & 33. The 13 is probably because I do not have a catalytic converter on it. The 24 is because of the way I have hooked up the park neutral switch. The 33 I have not figured it out yet. I am going to try and trouble shoot it some tonight. Not sure if any of these would cause the lock-up not to work or not.
Done some research and found that a heated O2 sensor may fix my code 13. I ordered one. when it gets here I will give it a try.

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