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Old 12-10-2013, 11:11 PM   #331
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Yeah, 4wd isnt supposed to be past like 45mph! I bet you your front wheel caught on pavement or something that kept the tire from moving and *snap*. If you were going considerably slower, this probably wouldnt have happened.
Well shit.... I didnt know that




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I plan on running the air filter directly infront of the air intake. This cuts costs for the tubing and stuff.
Remember people SIMPLE=CHEAP for the most part anyways.


SNORKELLLL BROOOOO!! JK.. long as it runs and id be happy!
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:20 AM   #332
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the 4.0 and ax15 are for sale. make me an offer for them via PM.

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Old 12-12-2013, 08:11 AM   #333
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I'm trying to figure out if I want the AA rad with the trans cooler, or just the AA rad.

I would go with something a little cheaper, I just don't want to waste my money on a rad that will leak.
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Old 12-12-2013, 04:17 PM   #334
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Got the heads back. They look good.

Crank is in great shape and he's going to polish it up.

The block is worse off. Honing didn't remove the pitting. And believe me, it's pitted.

He's going to bore the cylinder out 40 over and see if that will get all of the pitting out. If that doesn't get it, we will go to 60.

We also went though how he could bore that cylinder out and sleeve it and then run stock piston for the same price as boring out all of the cylinders. Then we saw that there was a little bit of rust in another cylinder, so we will probably just bore all of them out.

The only bad thing about having to bore all of them out is that I will have to get new pistons.

All of the machining will come out to about 350.
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Old 12-12-2013, 05:25 PM   #335
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WOW. So, dumb me left the shop before checking out the heads. I was just getting them cleaned, so what would I need to check right?

I just flipped them over and BOOM and BOOM. Two nicks in them. One on the edge of combustion chamber, the other on the bridge between valves. Originally I thought it had marred the valve seal, upon installing an exhaust valve, I see that there is clearence between the valve seal and the marred metal.

Funny, the guy told me "I didn't like the way they came out of the parts washer, so I resurfaced the again for you free of charge" I didn't think much of it at the time. odd.

Nicked edge.



And the nick next to the valve.





With the exhaust valve in.







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Old 12-12-2013, 10:32 PM   #336
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Okay, so after thinking about it a lot, I don't believe it is big enough to create a HG leak. Once the pressure of the head bolts are on, I think the void will be filled.

Ill be re installing the valves with new valve guide seals tomorrow.
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:57 AM   #337
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Quote:
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Okay, so after thinking about it a lot, I don't believe it is big enough to create a HG leak. Once the pressure of the head bolts are on, I think the void will be filled.

Ill be re installing the valves with new valve guide seals tomorrow.
I would agree with you in that since, but god forbid knock on wood if it does leak couldn't you take it back and blame the shop?
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:20 PM   #338
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I brought it to them. Then I remembered the head gasket goes beyond the mark and it won't mKe a difference.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:38 PM   #339
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I brought it to them. Then I remembered the head gasket goes beyond the mark and it won't mKe a difference.
Haha then your good
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:27 PM   #340
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I would second that. Those nicks are not enough to cause any leakage. This is what the head gasket is there for. Just make sure you have good even pressure holding the head on.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:59 PM   #341
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I like to air on the side of caution. Lol

I'm currently throwing the old rods and pistons in the 5.3 block. I'll get that back to the junk yard on Monday.
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:41 PM   #342
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This thread is so cool... I just took like an hour reading through all of it. Haha and Dude! How did you even get the thing to go 65 in 4 wheel? That's ludicrous speed!!
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:46 PM   #343
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This thread is so cool... I just took like an hour reading through all of it. Haha and Dude! How did you even get the thing to go 65 in 4 wheel? That's ludicrous speed!!
Sorry for the clutter! hah. It will make for good reading once I'm through with everything though!



At work tomorrow morning I'll type up a spreadsheet of my spending.
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:52 PM   #344
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BTW, if you're hooking up your engine to an engine stand, the bolts you need can be found at home depot. they are 1.5 10X75 theyre $2 a piece and work fit your bellhousing bolts exactly so theres no need to worry about stripping out the bellhousing holes in your block.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:23 PM   #345
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Sorry for the clutter! hah. It will make for good reading once I'm through with everything though! At work tomorrow morning I'll type up a spreadsheet of my spending.
I would enjoy reading that.... My 4.0 still has a ton of life, but I already know my jeep's life won't be confined to the life of that oneeee engine. I'd be interested to see how much it would really cost down the road.
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:19 AM   #346
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just ordered my radiator.

AA PN:#716693-LS

I used a AA promo code AATEXTUSER FOR 5% off.

Saved $26.79

Paid: $562.61. This is the radiator without the integrated transmission cooler.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:43 PM   #347
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Anyone have any idea on what my stock transfer case is worth?
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Old 12-15-2013, 03:44 PM   #348
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I sold it for $100 for whenever I pull it out.

Junkyard engine is put back together and is going back tomorrow.

Now that I think about it, the 5.3 block was probably in better shape than the 4.8 one. Hah not that it would matter anyways, they would both have to be bored.

Found some pitting on the cam. Not sure what this means.
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:40 PM   #349
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This thread is so cool... I just took like an hour reading through all of it. Haha and Dude! How did you even get the thing to go 65 in 4 wheel? That's ludicrous speed!!
Hahahaha! IDK... 4 hi lol. Wont be doing that again
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #350
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v8 i want
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:21 PM   #351
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v8 i want
you and me both!
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:17 AM   #352
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v8 i want
+1
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Old 12-16-2013, 04:56 PM   #353
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We were going to bore it .04 over.

Called up the internal engine parts supply and they don't carry pistons that size over. They only carry up to .03 over.

Why is everything so difficult?

I'm putting the valves and springs back in the cylinder heads with new valve seals now.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:43 AM   #354
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We were going to bore it .04 over.

Called up the internal engine parts supply and they don't carry pistons that size over. They only carry up to .03 over.

Why is everything so difficult?

I'm putting the valves and springs back in the cylinder heads with new valve seals now.
is it already bored? Just bore .03 then? If that works...
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:19 PM   #355
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.03 bore cleared up most of it. Honing should clear the rest. Bought pistons, rings, gaskets, timing components, bearings, oil pump, and plug set.

Total of an ass tightening $1,026.71
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Old 12-17-2013, 02:45 PM   #356
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.03 bore cleared up most of it. Honing should clear the rest. Bought pistons, rings, gaskets, timing components, bearings, oil pump, and plug set.

Total of an ass tightening $1,026.71
Hot damn! Sounds about right though!
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #357
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I don't think ill ever catch a break on this project.

Dissembled the transfer case today.

couldnt get the nut off of the front yoke even though ive been fighting it since about 4. (its almost 8) and it still wont come off.

thats been an absolute blast. ive heated that thing up with a propylene tourch.. nothing. shit, i even tried notching it and chizzling it out. Nope. so, its been fun.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:14 PM   #358
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VICTORY! Only 5 hours and 10 solid minutes of propylene torch on it. I'll post some pictures of my contraption later. God that was rough.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:16 PM   #359
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just ordered a rebuild kit for the np241. that was 83.98 Ordered a lokar shifter kit, back up light switch and two 32 spline yokes from AA for 325.48. I used some of my points from the radiator and still used the promo code i mentioned earlier for a $17 discount. I'm almost promising you it wont be done by Christmas, but will be done before I go back to school.

The engine kit was worth the money. Sealed power pistons, melling oil pump, king bearings. The good stuff.

Considering ls6 springs and cam. Just to finish everything off.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:01 AM   #360
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just ordered a rebuild kit for the np241. that was 83.98 Ordered a lokar shifter kit, back up light switch and two 32 spline yokes from AA for 325.48. I used some of my points from the radiator and still used the promo code i mentioned earlier for a $17 discount.
Good stuff dude! Cant wait!

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I'm almost promising you it wont be done by Christmas, but will be done before I go back to school.
It doesn't matter if you win by a mile or an inch, winnings winning We dont care when it gets done. We just wanna here it roar when it is done!


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Considering ls6 springs and cam. Just to finish everything off.
LS6 cam is the route im going. Ported LS6 intake. Definitely doing aftermarket on the exhaust side tho.


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