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Old 11-18-2013, 05:13 PM   #211
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Yeah i thought there was something like that. I know i was reading on pirate where a dude was trying to get his speedo without the adapter (not sure if it even existed whiel the dude was swapping) anyways... he jankified it and it worked for a bit but then something broke off inside the case and cause a bunch of problems. Ended up sending it to motech to get it done.

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Old 11-18-2013, 10:03 PM   #212
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wahahahahaha. that sucks. I may say screw the gauges and run aftermarket... less hassle.

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Old 11-19-2013, 01:46 PM   #213
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less hassle.
That is a fact.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:08 PM   #214
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What GM engineer decided to put torx bolts on the bottom if the transfer case skid plate on the older chevy trucks?!
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Old 11-20-2013, 04:56 PM   #215
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Anyways, got the np241 transfer case from a 97 chevy silverado z71. It should directly mate up to the 4l60e. This is the stronger transfer case, it's found in full sized trucks. The np231s are found in the blazers, s10s and other cars like that. These are the lighter duty transfer case and you WILL need a transfer case adapter unless your 4l60e is also from one of those lighter duty vehicles. I just know that the transmissions that come out of the full size 4wd trucks have a 6bolt trans to t case adapter. The other ones are 5.

A lot of the trucks/s10/blazers that were 4wd had the np233/243 transfer case. Make sure you don't grab this one by accident. The 233 is the electronically controlled transfer case. NOT the floor shift model.

Add $110.14 to my total.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:07 PM   #216
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I got a 5.3 motor n tranny with about 50k miles for sale in Texas if anyone is.near by
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:17 PM   #217
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wahahahahaha. that sucks. I may say screw the gauges and run aftermarket... less hassle.
I'm running Autometer. If something goes on the fritz, probably the sending unit. $30. I have 16k miles on my build and have replaced oil pressure sending unit and temperature sender within the last 500 miles. Cool thing with the speedo, if you change tires, you can drive a measured 2 miles, press a button on the speedo at beginning and end, and boom, recalibrated.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:46 AM   #218
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I'll be thoroughly reading this thread... I've had an LS1 just sitting at the house, waiting for me to pull the trigger on the swap, for about 3 years now. I'm itching to start on it.

I've done two other motor swaps and am dreading the anxiety and frustration it'll take to complete a third, lol.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:50 AM   #219
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I got a 5.3 motor n tranny with about 50k miles for sale in Texas if anyone is.near by
Inbox me what your looking to get. I have a local buddy that is looking for one. Freight might be too big of hassel though. LMK

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I'll be thoroughly reading this thread... I've had an LS1 just sitting at the house, waiting for me to pull the trigger on the swap, for about 3 years now. I'm itching to start on it.

I've done two other motor swaps and am dreading the anxiety and frustration it'll take to complete a third, lol.
Prepare yourself buddy. The "DIY" part of the swap entails extensive probage and frustration! If you catch my drift.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:07 PM   #220
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I'll be thoroughly reading this thread... I've had an LS1 just sitting at the house, waiting for me to pull the trigger on the swap, for about 3 years now. I'm itching to start on it. I've done two other motor swaps and am dreading the anxiety and frustration it'll take to complete a third, lol.
Well, I can't speak until it's all over with an running and finished.
Before you start anything though, do your research. I cannot stress that enough. You don't want to be sitting there buying items that you don't need and you end up wasting time and money.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:08 PM   #221
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wasting time and money.
Yup... pretty much sums it up!
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:40 PM   #222
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While grabbing the shifter for the np241 in the junk yard I some how lost my box of box end wrenches. Someone got themselves an early Christmas present:/

Spent $10.15
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Old 11-26-2013, 04:00 AM   #223
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Well son of a bitch! What were you thinking!? I bet they are still sitting right where you left them.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:27 PM   #224
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I typically bring a wheelbarrow out there with my tools in there. Because I was only running to go he that shifter, I didn't bring a wheelbarrow because I didnt have many things to carry. Well low and behold I left them somewhere out there because I decided to go look around for other parts and stuff. I even left my dads snap on socket set. You KNOW I literally ran back for those expensive suckers.

Went to the yard today and grabbed an alternator. Somehow lost my 10mm socket.
When I went to pop the alternator out, I skid my ratchet under it so I could get some leverage when I pushed on it. Dumb ole me hit it and pressed the release button and the socket went flying. Couldn't find it on the ground either:/

Anyways, spent $26.08.
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:00 PM   #225
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I'm off out of school for the rest of the week so I will hopefully go grab the engine stand, engine lift, change out the bent rod, and get the heads milled.

Somewhere between the items on that list, I'll order a transfer case rebuild kit and will do that. I even got me some good snap ring pliers!(:

So that's my plan anyways. I also plan to find a radiator and a fan and order those as well.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:18 AM   #226
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The truck I was grabbing the alternator from was in relatively good shape. Of course this means that there is a mechanical problem with the truck.. So while sitting on top of the engine I decided to look at the oil dipstick and see what the oil looked like. There was maybe an eighth of an inch I oil on the dipstick.. Well. I think I found the problem!
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:26 PM   #227
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Went get an engine lift and stand that I found off of craigslist today. They're both from harbor freight, but as long as they get the job done, it's all good.

$195 for both.


Drained the oil out of it today. Looked good. Guy must have just changed it before he wrecked it. Wasn't milky, or black.
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:23 PM   #228
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There was a 4l80e in the junk yard from a chevy 3500 express can. I think it was a 2001. It was behind a 5.7.. Can was a prisoners van. Wasn't wrecked or anything. Think it would be worth going get it?
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Old 11-29-2013, 01:38 PM   #229
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It is a bent rod as suspected. Will be ordering new parts as soon as I get it out and see if the piston needs to be replaced.
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Old 11-29-2013, 02:00 PM   #230
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It is a bent rod as suspected. Will be ordering new parts as soon as I get it out and see if the piston needs to be replaced.
What are you using to clean the engine out?
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Old 11-29-2013, 06:44 PM   #231
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What are you using to clean the engine out?
I'm using a kerosene substitute to wipe down the cylinder walls and pistons. I won't be cleaning out the inside-inside portion of the engine.

But in other news, does my rod look a little bent to you? Hahahaha

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Old 11-30-2013, 04:50 PM   #232
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I'm VERY close to just getting it fully rebuilt. I'm not sure how deep the rust in one of the cylinders. Meh. I really don't have the money for it. I wish I had more experience wish engines so that I could give myself a definite answer.

I'll be working with tail hole over the next few days and see what he has to say.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:11 PM   #233
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Shitty! That rod definitely looks bent. If that were me i would just rebuild it. Put the project to rest and save up some money to do it right the first time.

Is the rust on the cylinder walls that bad? The bore is going to change if you go too far. Or will the rings pick up the little change. I'm no expert....

Keep me updated.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:49 PM   #234
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Oh it's definitely bent. Lol
I pulled it today. Anytime you bore it out, you need to get at the least, new rings. But I think if you actually get it bored, instead of just honed again, you need new pistons.

The rust is just surface rust. But I can feel it.
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:37 PM   #235
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ROLL TIDE ROLL DOWN THE TOILET BOWL!

Had to
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:02 PM   #236
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Oh it's definitely bent. Lol
I pulled it today. Anytime you bore it out, you need to get at the least, new rings. But I think if you actually get it bored, instead of just honed again, you need new pistons.

The rust is just surface rust. But I can feel it.
I see. Ill keep that in mind

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ROLL TIDE ROLL DOWN THE TOILET BOWL!

Had to
Lmao....
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:15 PM   #237
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This is what we are dealing with.

Yep. I've made the executive decision to get the block bored out to 5.7 specs and throw a new crank, rods, and pistons in it. And of course, while I'm there I may as well cam the hell out of it. It may take me another year to save up for that, but in the end, if I've got a reliable vehicle that I KNOW won't let me down, I'll be as happy as a loon.
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:09 PM   #238
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4.8 to 5.7 is going to have to be sleeved don't you think? Sounds like a good fix though haha.
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:26 PM   #239
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4.8 to 5.7 is going to have to be sleeved don't you think? Sounds like a good fix though haha.
No. The only difference between the 4.8 and the 5.3 is the crankshafts and rod length. I suppose you could throw in that the 5.3 has dished pistons.. But that doesn't really count for displacement.

So. By using a 5.3 crank and rods in my block, I've only got .4 of a liter to bore out.
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:51 PM   #240
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Ahhhhh! Alright makes sense. You can get 5.3's for less than $500. With a core exchange you could be looking at pennies. Save you the 'boring' expense and you have what you need 5.3L

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