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Old 04-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by solman View Post
So after about 3 hours of measuring, cutting, measuring, re-cutting, grinding, and welding. One side is done

duuude you should have left it as a stepside, that would have been totally rad //just my opinion

looks great though!

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Old 04-18-2013, 12:59 PM   #122
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Hey man what axles are u running for those 37"

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Old 04-18-2013, 09:37 PM   #123
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I have an 8.8 in the rear and a high pinion dana 30 up front. I know my axles are too small for for these tires but I have a 14 bolt and high pinion 60 that will be going in soon. I probably won't even wheel it until the 1 ton swap is done.
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Old 05-09-2013, 03:51 PM   #124
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Bookmarked!
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:14 PM   #125
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Wow! Wow! Wow! WOOOOOOWWW!! You have totally leapfrogged my TJ-6 build and it looks AWESOME! Solman, you have inspired me to get off my arse and get in the garage and finish my build.

How did you bend the tops of the side sheet metal pieces to match the factory belt rail bends? I am kicking around the idea of fabbing up a sheet metal press jig for this.
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:34 PM   #126
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I made the top section of the tub with some scrap sheet metal, it was a pain in the ass getting it bent right but I think it will work. Once I tacked it in I was able to weld up the LJ soft top retainer. Here's how I left it today, I stuck a piece of cardboard in there to get my template for the side panel.
Yes, this is the part I am dreading. I am using 18 gauge sheet metal, and it is a pain to bend by hand.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:04 PM   #127
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Chop,
Thanks for inspiring me originally with your thread As for the tops, I used some 18GA sheet metal left over from a door skin I removed from a 79 VW bus I restored for my Dad. I used a hammer, 2 pairs of vice grips, and the edge of a metal bench. They are far from show quality but they get the job done. The side panels are made of a much thicker sheet metal about 14ga, it is all flat though.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:37 PM   #128
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Chop,
Thanks for inspiring me originally with your thread As for the tops, I used some 18GA sheet metal left over from a door skin I removed from a 79 VW bus I restored for my Dad. I used a hammer, 2 pairs of vice grips, and the edge of a metal bench. They are far from show quality but they get the job done. The side panels are made of a much thicker sheet metal about 14ga, it is all flat though.
I think you are being way too critical of yourself; I am impressed that you made those bends without a press or brake and the finished product looks great! Plus, way to Han Solo it with the additional "hidden" compartments. I really like that idea and I am wishing I had thought of taking advantage of the unused volume like you did.

Tell me something, was your frame pretty much square after you put it back together? I am worried about the rear corner of mine being 1/2" off.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:49 PM   #129
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same here, cant wait to see the 1ton swap progress, so far it's looking awesome.

keep it up!
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:22 PM   #130
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I think you are being way too critical of yourself; I am impressed that you made those bends without a press or brake and the finished product looks great! Plus, way to Han Solo it with the additional "hidden" compartments. I really like that idea and I am wishing I had thought of taking advantage of the unused volume like you did.

Tell me something, was your frame pretty much square after you put it back together? I am worried about the rear corner of mine being 1/2" off.
Actually its more square now. When I bought the jeep 3 years ago the PO told me that it was wrecked in the front end a few years before. Ever since I got the jeep it has always sat about 1.5" lower in the right rear corner. I tried swapping springs from side to side but it never got any better. My solution was just using a 3/4" spacer in the right rear spring and only being off 3/4" wasn't so noticeable.
Before I cut the frame I measured from the ground to the frame on each side in the rear and as expected the right rear sat 3/4" lower. After I cut the frame and welded the extensions in it now sits perfectly even from side to side(the 3/4" spacer is still in the right rear corner but now it sits level
Even before with the right rear being 1.5" lower it still drove fine and tracked straight so I wouldn't worry too much if your only off a 1/2"
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:28 PM   #131
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I got a little bit of work done on the 1 ton swap over the last 2 weeks so here's an update.

The 37" bias Iroks were making my jeep no fun to drive on the street. I wasn't able to find a shop that could balance them and I just didnt feel safe hauling my kids around in it the way it was driving, (wobble, shimmy, wandering) so I traded them off to a friend who is building an off road only MJ for a set of 35" all terrains to hold me over until Im ready to swap out the axles.
Heres how it sits on the 35s
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:38 PM   #132
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As for the axles, I started out with a corporate 14 bolt rear with 5.13s and a detroit locker that only has around 6k miles on a full rebuild and a junk yard fresh 1979 high pinion, king pin dana 60 from and f350. The 78-79 ford hp dana60s are great for a tj when your keeping them full width because the diff is in just the right spot, there is about 6" of tube from the diff to the drivers side inner C. I decided that and axle thats 9" wider than my hp dana 30 is just too wide for a Jeep that I want to keep street legal so I looked at my options for narrowing it.
Because of the diff location I would have had to cut off of both sides of the axle which I did not want to do because then I would be looking at needing custom shafts for both sides, so I sold the 79 dana 60 and picked up a 1990 f350 hp kingpin dana 60.
The 1988.5-1991 f350 dana 60s are identical in width as the 1978-79 and they use the same brakes, hubs, spindles, bearings, gears but the diff is about 3" closer to the drivers side so it only has about 3" of tube between the diff and the inner C. By using this axle I only needed to cut off of the long side.
The first pic shows the 14bolt and the 79 dana 60 (notice the diff location.)


This is a pic of the 1990 dana 60(notice the diff location)
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:42 PM   #133
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After man handling the 480 pound dana 60 onto the lift table last week I started tearing it apart. Everything was easy except for removing the kingpins. They are torqued to 500 FT.LBs and you need a 7/8" allen wrench to remove them. I took a 7/8" allen wrench, a 4' breaker bar and heating up the kingpins cherry red to get then out but they are out.

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Old 05-09-2013, 08:45 PM   #134
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Once everything was torn down I decided that I wanted to be able to use a stock length shaft and not a custom one so I bought a stock long inner shaft from a 1979 dana 60. Since the diff was offset closer to the pass. side on them natural the shaft is shorter(2.410" shorter to be exact) so the next step was to take a few measurements and start cutting The porta band made cutting easy.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:47 PM   #135
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I cut the inner C off flush then came the hard part. The axle tube is pressed into the inner C from the factory with a .003" to .005" interference fit so it was tight. I clamped it up in the vise and made a couple releife cuts with the sawzall.

Then proceeded to beat the hell out of it with a BFH until it came out.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:52 PM   #136
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Before I cut I made sure to make a few marks to make lining the inner C back up easier so that my caster would be correct. Once I removed the piece of tube from the inner C I measured the length of it and subtracted that from the 2.410" that I wanted to narrow and took the rest off of the tube coming from the housing. Once that was done I cleaned up the end of the tube got the BFH back out and re installed the Inner C

I have not welded it in place yet because Im still waiting for my 79 inner shaft to show up. But heres the 35 spline inner shaft that came out
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:55 PM   #137
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This is freakin awesome !!! It's like watching a mad scientist at work. I'm definitely subbed into this bad boy. Very nice !!!!!
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:00 PM   #138
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nice work on the axle so far, that's what I was looking forward to seeing.
i'm glad I didn't have to wait to long!
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:02 PM   #139
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Mad scientist... awesome
Forgot to put up a pic of all the goodies I picked up yesterday.


And when the axles are in these are the 40s ill be rockin
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:56 AM   #140
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The DOM for my control arms came in yesterday. Now I'm just waiting on the new pass. side shaft to double check measurements before I weld up the inner C.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:06 PM   #141
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Looks great man! I can't believe how small those 35's look on that thing.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:58 PM   #142
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Good thinking on the d60, that thing looks studly. I can't imagine taking those kingpins off!

I wana see this thing in action when you get done.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:41 AM   #143
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Ill be at topless for tatas at Rausch Creek on 8/10 but I dont think ill have the axles in by then. I still need to save up for the hydro assist steering.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:26 AM   #144
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Awesome work man. Made it look to easy
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:10 AM   #145
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It may not be pretty but it should stay put.

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Old 05-20-2013, 08:12 AM   #146
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Heres the .25" wall DOM I'm using to make the control arms


The orange paint will have to hold me over until I can afford a real set of Reids.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:13 AM   #147
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The old dually hubs


regular single wheel hubs mounted to the rotors
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:15 AM   #148
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The new tires make my 35s look small. There almost as tall as my little helper.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:16 AM   #149
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The H2s
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:39 AM   #150
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Subbed!
Just curious why you didn't make your storage pockets accessable from the outside?

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