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Old 02-10-2011, 08:44 PM   #31
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Okay, here's today's update. The 8.8 didn't show up yesterday, but wasn't showing delayed on UPS tracking, and I knew it was in the closest "major" city, so I gave them a call. It wasn't on the truck, so I went and got it...

Sitting on the dock at the UPS depot.



Load 'er up!



In the shop floor and detail shots.








Next up is more air compressor stuff... It'll take me a few minutes to type it up so standby for more...

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Old 02-10-2011, 08:47 PM   #32
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Nice. Looks like your weekend is all booked up.

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Old 02-10-2011, 08:50 PM   #33
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That's a thing of beauty Josh, gotta go with Nick, looks like your weekend is full up.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:56 PM   #34
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Fabricated a switch bracket.





Installed my solenoid and wired up. (Here's where those clever Aussies made me scratch my head. Details after the pics.)




There are three wire looms for the three switches that make up the entire harness that is included in the kit. One loom is labled for the compressor switch. The other two are labeled switch 1 and switch 2. I chose one at random under the hood (the one with the green wire in it), and hooked it to the solenoid. Turns out that was the "Switch 2" loom. Okay. <shrug> Hook it all up and hit the compressor switch. It fires up and shuts off. Hit the solenoid switch... Nothing. Here's why.

Quote:
Dual Air Locker System
If two air lockers are to be installed in the system, ARB recommends that the switches and solenoids be wired according to Figure 22. For safety reasons, this configuration allows solenoid 2 (switch 2) to be actuated only if solenoid 1 is already on. Attach rear air locker switch to "Switch 1", and front air locker switch to "switch 2"
It worked perfectly after I squared that away. Only it seems more like a requirement than a recommendation...
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:02 PM   #35
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Nice. Looks like your weekend is all booked up.
I think so too.

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That's a thing of beauty Josh...
It should be...
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:04 PM   #36
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That's one sexy axle
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:08 PM   #37
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What is that tingling sensation - my God I am fifty. LOL
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:08 PM   #38
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Looks great Josh. Who'd you get the axle from?
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:22 PM   #39
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That's one sexy axle
Shame to hide it under there, isn't it?

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What is that tingling sensation - my God I am fifty. LOL
I'm sorry, are you insinuating that looking at my axle gives you wood? If so STOP IT!



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Looks great Josh. Who'd you get the axle from?
East Coast Gear Supply. It's a nice unit. Everything but the axle shafts are brand new (not counting the housing of course) and I could have upgraded to stronger shafts if I had wanted to. I hope to have it under there tomorrow. I'll have to front wheel drive it for a week or so I guess.
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:38 PM   #40
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Why a week? Once you get in the rear axle, and measure for a shaft, any good driveline shop can make you one in a day.
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:54 PM   #41
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Just curious, but does anyone know what "safety concerns" there are with having the front locked, but not the rear? Seems interesting that they would force you to wire it that way.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:10 PM   #42
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This Jeep has come a long way. I am just curious, why did you go for the 8.8 and not just put in the dana 44? You have done a lot of work and it is looking good. I will be interested to see the progress as you move on.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:26 PM   #43
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Don't know how I missed this thread when it started.

Looks good Josh. You were not kidding when you were talking about lockers and axles. Hope to see it all in person when you get it finished.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:35 PM   #44
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This Jeep has come a long way. I am just curious, why did you go for the 8.8 and not just put in the dana 44? You have done a lot of work and it is looking good. I will be interested to see the progress as you move on.
It came down to what I got for the money.

A standard 44 would have cost about $2650 fully done up. (~$1200 for the axle, $850 for the locker, $600 for the regear, and that's a conservative estimate.) plus $1600 for the front axle work = $4250.00

Rubicon axles were an option, but only if I could find both at the same time. That would have given me stronger (than stock) axles that were locked, for ~$3500 but I would have been stuck with 4.10 gears because the budget wouldn't have allowed for dual 44s and a regear on both. So $3500 total there with less than ideal gears and I'd have to find a set first. (Not readily available)

The option I picked was the 8.8, which is reputed to be stronger than a 44, (I don't know that to be a fact, but it's plenty stout.) $2450 shipped with correct gearing and an ARB. I'm having my front axle (D30) regeared and locked with a matching ARB for ~$1600, so that total is ~$4050. This was the option I liked best so I pulled the trigger. Someone else might do it totally differently.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:40 PM   #45
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Why a week? Once you get in the rear axle, and measure for a shaft, any good driveline shop can make you one in a day.
I know, right? There is a reputible driveshaft shop pretty close by, but I knda want to do business with Dave at Rokmen. He was great to me when I was talking to him about skids. Plus I know I can't go wrong with the Tom Woods I would get from him.

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Just curious, but does anyone know what "safety concerns" there are with having the front locked, but not the rear? Seems interesting that they would force you to wire it that way.
IDK, The Rubicons are like that too. At least I'll be able to use mine in 4hi.

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Don't know how I missed this thread when it started.

Looks good Josh. You were not kidding when you were talking about lockers and axles. Hope to see it all in person when you get it finished.
I was wondering earlier if you had seen it. I don't joke about my rig. You know you'll get to inspect it in person asap.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:19 PM   #46
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It came down to what I got for the money.

A standard 44 would have cost about $2650 fully done up. (~$1200 for the axle, $850 for the locker, $600 for the regear, and that's a conservative estimate.) plus $1600 for the front axle work = $4250.00

Rubicon axles were an option, but only if I could find both at the same time. That would have given me stronger (than stock) axles that were locked, for ~$3500 but I would have been stuck with 4.10 gears because the budget wouldn't have allowed for dual 44s and a regear on both. So $3500 total there with less than ideal gears and I'd have to find a set first. (Not readily available)

The option I picked was the 8.8, which is reputed to be stronger than a 44, (I don't know that to be a fact, but it's plenty stout.) $2450 shipped with correct gearing and an ARB. I'm having my front axle (D30) regeared and locked with a matching ARB for ~$1600, so that total is ~$4050. This was the option I liked best so I pulled the trigger. Someone else might do it totally differently.
I see. I think I got a fairly good deal on mine as I got the dana 44 axle from a 2004 Rubicon with disk brakes, Detroit locker in the rear and both axles regeared for $2600 out the door along with some other things they tossed in. I already had the front end locked with the Lock Right, ARB's are a bit more expensive being the selectable lockers which have their advantages. Keep it coming.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:36 AM   #47
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Lookin' good Josh!! 8.8 was the way to go! With a ford underneath you...you are bound to go further!!
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:23 AM   #48
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Looking good. Those will come in handy in the tar bit at TB, I know how much you like mud! LOL Let us know when your first outing is.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:41 AM   #49
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Looking good. Those will come in handy in the tar bit at TB, I know how much you like mud! LOL Let us know when your first outing is.
Have you ever met me before?

I'm looking forward to the test run myself. Hope you and Tracy can be there. You better bring that TJ too!
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:45 AM   #50
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Have you ever met me before?

I'm looking forward to the test run myself. Hope you and Tracy can be there. You better bring that TJ too!
Im hoping to,,,, if I just fix this DARN mid range stumble P0123 CRAP! So far Ive just been ignoring it and floor it!!! LOL Tracy can swear to that,
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:49 AM   #51
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Im hoping to,,,, if I just fix this DARN mid range stumble P0123 CRAP! So far Ive just been ignoring it and floor it!!! LOL Tracy can swear to that,
You need to get that squared away. TB will re-open before you know it. (I'll let it dry out some more before I go back though.)
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:30 PM   #52
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...IDK, The Rubicons are like that too. At least I'll be able to use mine in 4hi....
(new to axle-upgrades and regearing) Please explain... what is it that allows you to use in 4hi?
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:26 PM   #53
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absolutely no possible way that anyone would recommend using lockers in 4w Hi...because if you are going that fast you don't need lockers! And with the lockers on, take a tight turn around an obstacle and hit that skinny pedal...the torque from the locker will snap an axle shaft in an instant. My son found out the hard way after installing lockers in his cherokee.
There is a good REASON why Rubicons have the 'interlock' on them to prevent activation in anything BUT 4wd LOW...and the factory manual says to keep speed under 15 mph!
BUT if someone doesn't want to listen and thinks they know better...good suggestion is to carry spare axles!
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:31 PM   #54
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absolutely no possible way that anyone would recommend using lockers in 4w Hi...because if you are going that fast you don't need lockers! And with the lockers on, take a tight turn around an obstacle and hit that skinny pedal...the torque from the locker will snap an axle shaft in an instant. My son found out the hard way after installing lockers in his cherokee.
There is a good REASON why Rubicons have the 'interlock' on them to prevent activation in anything BUT 4wd LOW...and the factory manual says to keep speed under 15 mph!
BUT if someone doesn't want to listen and thinks they know better...good suggestion is to carry spare axles!
Wouldn't they be useful in deep sand ? Also maybe in some muddy situations.. idk
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:13 PM   #55
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NHrubicon,

Notice I did not say that I intended to use the lockers in 4hi, only that I had the option to, and that the Rubicon did not. This comment was made in response to a question about why the rear had to be locked before the front locker would engage. Am I mistaken? I was simply stating the FACTS. Furthermore, if I'm wheeling my Jeep, I'm in 4lo. Period. Which you would have no way of knowing because you have never wheeled with me. I have never used 4hi on a trail. Ever. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with the group.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:36 PM   #56
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I definitely dont know first hand, but i would think that there would be scenarios where using your lockers in 4 hi would be advantageous. What about deep snow? Maybe not.. like I said, its just seems like there would be circumstances where it would help. I fully realize though that you definitely need to use your lockers wisely or damage could/will happen.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:38 PM   #57
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I definitely dont know first hand, but i would think that there would be scenarios where using your lockers in 4 hi would be advantageous. What about deep snow? Maybe not.. like I said, its just seems like there would be circumstances where it would help. I fully realize though that you definitely need to use your lockers wisely or damage could/will happen.
Not that I'm an expert but I think deep sand would be a prime example hopefully someone who knows for sure will chime in
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:42 PM   #58
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Not that I'm an expert but I think deep sand would be a prime example hopefully someone who knows for sure will chime in
Sure I'll chime in....



SO, AS,,,how did the swap go today? Get it all bottoned up?
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:45 PM   #59
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Sure I'll chime in....

SO, AS,,,how did the swap go today? Get it all bottoned up?
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:48 PM   #60
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Sure I'll chime in....
SO, AS,,,how did the swap go today? Get it all bottoned up?
Yes and no. On the whole, things went really, really well though. I really screwed my air compressor up though and will probably have to buy a new one. I also pinched the o-ring that seals the speedo gear to the tailshaft housing. None of the three part stores in town had the right one. I've got one on it right now that has it sealed but the gear housing isn't seated in the tailshaft. I'm going to the dealership tomorrow I guess... The factory driveshaft wasn't smooth so I pulled it back out and I'm rolling FWD for now. 30+ pics uploading right now, so I'll be posting them up here soon.

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