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Old 12-17-2013, 11:17 AM   #31
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Bob, there is a 2005 60 and a 78-79 60 up for sale right now I've been lookin at. Know anything about them? I need to go look over the 60 billavista stuff and a few other things sometime soon.

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Old 12-17-2013, 11:34 AM   #32
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The 2000 60 will be a metric lug pattern and have ball joints. The 78-79 is standard 8x6.5" with king pins. Only drawback is there is 6" between the diff and knuckle on the drivers side. That's fine if you staying full width but if you want to cut it you will need to cut both sides or the diff/driveshaft will be to close to tranny and oil pan.
The 88-91 ford d60 is identical but the diff is only about 3" from the knuckle on the drivers side.

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Old 12-17-2013, 03:21 PM   #33
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Okay, I knew that about the 78-79s. Wasn't sure on the 2000. Wasn't sure if I could cut the 2000 down the way you did the earlier kingpin axle. I'm in no rush, just don't wana miss anything. I'm probably gona go junk yard hunting in the spring for one.
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:21 PM   #34
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The 78-79 is more popular and more $ because it perfect for leaving it full width. I had a 78-79 d60 in junkyard fresh condition (needed total rebuild) and I got $900 for it the day after I posted it on craigslist. I found a 90 d60 a few days later for $500
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:33 PM   #35
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The 78-79 is more popular and more $ because it perfect for leaving it full width. I had a 78-79 d60 in junkyard fresh condition (needed total rebuild) and I got $900 for it the day after I posted it on craigslist. I found a 90 d60 a few days later for $500
Yeah I see one now for 800. I was gona pull whatever I can find valuable to sell if I can't use it. Don't know if I wana try to narrow one or not. I might end up begging you to help me if I go that road. You are pretty close.
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:58 PM   #36
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I just realized you guys are in PA. Far from Philly area?

My friend has a shop and Ive been learning and doing everything to my Jeep my self and with his help. Would love to learn from others too. lol.
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:10 PM   #37
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I just realized you guys are in PA. Far from Philly area?

My friend has a shop and Ive been learning and doing everything to my Jeep my self and with his help. Would love to learn from others too. lol.
Like 3 hours or a little longer. South central pa. I think Solman would be a little further or around the same.
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #38
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Yikes lol.

Lil far. Im just over the bridge from Philly.
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:07 PM   #39
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It takes me about 3-1/2 hrs to get to Philly
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:12 PM   #40
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Golden and Solomon how far away are you from Harrisburg?
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:14 PM   #41
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Im not too far outside of Chambersburg
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:28 PM   #42
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Sweet I'm in Mechanicsburg. I might have to check out ur build sometime
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:15 PM   #43
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Golden and Solomon how far away are you from Harrisburg?
1.5 hours. I'm near Altoona/Johnstown/Bedford.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:17 PM   #44
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The build is taking a new direction thanks to some unfortunate circumstances. I'll fill you all in in a few weeks. But it will probably end up better than before.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:56 AM   #45
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Do you have any details on the belly crossmember you are running? I mean it looks pretty straightforward but what did you use for mounts, etc?
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:49 AM   #46
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Which are you asking for specifically. It bolts in the stock location. The stock t case mount was removed from the tcase/trans (it's 2 piece and reused the top one not the one w the bushing. That bolts into the cross member. I have more details on my old build thread I believe.
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:52 AM   #47
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I looked through the old one but not a whole lot of detail. I figured out the t-case mount as the busing is not needed now that the crosmemebr has bushings on either end where it mounts to the frame. What did you use there?
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:46 PM   #48
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I looked through the old one but not a whole lot of detail. I figured out the t-case mount as the busing is not needed now that the crosmemebr has bushings on either end where it mounts to the frame. What did you use there?
It's just hiding within all my rambling haha.

You have that's right for the mount/bushing. I used the ruff stuff x member kit. It's just Motor mount bushings and a DOM sleeve basically and a 4 tabs for the frame mount.
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Old 01-30-2014, 03:36 PM   #49
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It's just hiding within all my rambling haha.

You have that's right for the mount/bushing. I used the ruff stuff x member kit. It's just Motor mount bushings and a DOM sleeve basically and a 4 tabs for the frame mount.
I didn't even know that kit existed!
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:26 PM   #50
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Lots of handy builder parts out there if you look. It's pretty reasonably priced too.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:00 AM   #51
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They are yes. I have some of their stuff already on my list
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Old 02-01-2014, 05:14 PM   #52
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Let me know if you have any more questions for me. What's your game plan at this point?
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:23 PM   #53
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First I need to get the lift properly dialed in, SYE, arms, etc. while I'm at it I'm ditching the stock skid for a 2" drop skid or a 1" skid and a lo pro depending on funds.

The crossmember idea would allow me to get to the 1" level without the lo pro and give me a chance to have an independent skid like yours.

Long run would be to drop my suspension about an inch and swap that for a body lift and net the same lift. That would allow me to raise the crossmember while keeping the drivetrain with the same geometry.

Is the crossmember made of 2x2x.25 tubing?

I guess I should start a build thread lol
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:30 PM   #54
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First I need to get the lift properly dialed in, SYE, arms, etc. while I'm at it I'm ditching the stock skid for a 2" drop skid or a 1" skid and a lo pro depending on funds.

The crossmember idea would allow me to get to the 1" level without the lo pro and give me a chance to have an independent skid like yours.

Long run would be to drop my suspension about an inch and swap that for a body lift and net the same lift. That would allow me to raise the crossmember while keeping the drivetrain with the same geometry.

Is the crossmember made of 2x2x.25 tubing?

I guess I should start a build thread lol
Sounds like you have it planned out man. Yes that's correct. Build threads are good.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:33 PM   #55
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So this is the reason my build changed for a while.... Was told at first it was getting totaled so I was going to be fixing it myself and heading in a trail rig direction. But I worked with insurance and got things worked out. Jeep was done today after 5 weeks since. Still gone enjoy the jeep for now and keep saving/planning the front axle build.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:48 PM   #56
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So this is the reason my build changed for a while.... Was told at first it was getting totaled so I was going to be fixing it myself and heading in a trail rig direction. But I worked with insurance and got things worked out. Jeep was done today after 5 weeks since. Still gone enjoy the jeep for now and keep saving/planning the front axle build.
What happened to it
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:01 PM   #57
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What happened to it
A tree.
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:04 PM   #58
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Trees and slippery surfaces don't mix
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:06 PM   #59
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Glad it's back and everything worked out well.
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:45 PM   #60
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Trees and slippery surfaces don't mix

Not at all. It didnt help that this tree was like growing into the road either, lol. You live and learn. Back on the horse now and keep moving.


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Glad it's back and everything worked out well.
Thanks, me too. Gona do my own check ups on all my custom stuff soon. Basically make sure no welds cracked or anything and redo anything. I highly doubt they did though. The shop said the artec kit I installed saved the 8.8 axle, it was only slightly tweaked.

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