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Old 02-08-2014, 03:55 PM   #61
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Solid man! I'll be doing my 8.8 and xmember in a couple month.. So I may be pm'ing you with a few questions.

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Old 02-08-2014, 05:00 PM   #62
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Feel free. I'm not on the forum much, the best way to reach me is on my group/club page on Facebook American jeepers. Feel free to join. Ill try to check back here though periodically.

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Old 02-12-2014, 01:52 PM   #63
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Shameless plug for our RC trip: WF/AMJ ride at Rausch Creek 3! East Coast Meetup!
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:41 AM   #64
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Wheeled yesterday with 2 Tj buddies and a Chevy buggy. Had a blast, rig still wheels great.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:49 AM   #65
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Wheeled yesterday with 2 Tj buddies and a Chevy buggy. Had a blast, rig still wheels great.
Nice! I came across some of your you tube videos at RC Saturday at work, hopefully I will make it up there in the next year or so.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:04 AM   #66
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Nice! I came across some of your you tube videos at RC Saturday at work, hopefully I will make it up there in the next year or so.
We are headed up August 1-3 in a big group from a few different clubs and WF and you're welcome to join.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:04 AM   #67
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We are headed up August 1-3 in a big group from a few different clubs and WF and you're welcome to join.
I probably wouldn't be able to make it, but I'll keep that in mind.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:10 AM   #68
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Just let me know if you wana make it out. There is a trip thread on here already.

Right now plan is to swap a 75-76 (iirc) hp44 into the Tj. Should get me the weld on mounts and disc brakes. Then swap it with a little stretch and run some 5" BS Beadlocks to pull it in a little. The rear will be getting the super 88 kit and 1" spacers to get it out to 63.5" which should work well with the front. Might go a little wider in the rear, haven't decided yet.

After that's all done I will be looking to run 37-38s, hiline the front, lower my coil height and possible reduce the BL, get the rear locked and an engine skid built, and then finally stretch the rear a few more inches. At that point I can finally outboard and be pretty much set. This should take me through next summer to actually do all that. I would love to get the front done and beads /8.8 stuff purchased and installed this summer but it might get close. I might do it in pieces that I can actually put to use.


Right now contemplating an 8.8 locker I found slightly used half off. It's a no slip for the LSD carrier. I don't really mind the LSD right now. I get stuck being hung up not from lack of traction at the moment.


Hopefully this gives you all an idea where I'm headed. We will see where I end up.

Just wheeled last weekend and going again the 17th. This is my last full free summer off as I'll be in grad school year round except short breaks the next 4 years basically. So I'm trying to wheel and enjoy while I can!
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Old 05-08-2014, 06:12 AM   #69
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Ryan
I just read your old build thread and first awesome build. Second how much did you raise your transfer case with the tuck? Do you think I could raise it without a sye if I don't have a lift?
Thanks medix
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:04 AM   #70
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Ryan
I just read your old build thread and first awesome build. Second how much did you raise your transfer case with the tuck? Do you think I could raise it without a sye if I don't have a lift?
Thanks medix
I don't think you could go completely flat no matter what without one. It was raised roughly 4".
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:49 PM   #71
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Ok thanks. Quick question can I sue the factory driveshaft with a sye? Assuming I don't tuck it or lift the jeep. I don't think I can but want to make sure
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:18 PM   #72
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No you can't because it won't bolt up, you have a new fixed yoke instead of a slip yoke when you install an sye
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:37 PM   #73
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Ok. Thanks for the help
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Old 05-10-2014, 09:54 AM   #74
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Hi Ryan did you need a body lift to tuck it or could you do it without one? Sorry for all the questions.
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:10 AM   #75
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No worries man. I used a BL but it's possible to do it without. If you're buying off the shelf they have ones that require one and some that don't. Mine is custom and completely flat which is why I needed the body lift. If I wanted to hammer on the tub a little I could and reduce it which I am considering. It really depends on the setup you want. So, you can tuck without a body lift. But for some tucks you do need one. Unless you're going the extra mile to not have it.
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:14 AM   #76
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Thanks for all the help. I was looking at doing something like yours. I would rather fab something than buy it off the shelf. And I'm on a high school kid budget so your way is cheaper. So I'll probably be getting a BL when/if I do the tuck
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Old 05-21-2014, 09:02 AM   #77
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Hey Ryan, What's the size of your crossmember tubing? Is it 2x2x.25? I have the crossmember kit now in my possession and want to go get the rest soon.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:03 AM   #78
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Yes 2x2, but I believe that it was 3/16th thick. 1/4 will work fine but I believe that's a little overkill.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:58 AM   #79
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Thank you sir. I agree it would be overkill as most skid plates are only 3/16s.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:10 AM   #80
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And this is square tubing. The weak point is still at the bushing mounts and plate mounts and those will flex way more than the tube no matter the thickness. So I decided to save a few dollars and pounds and go with 3/16ths.
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:59 PM   #81
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Been working on an engine skid out of some steel I had sitting around. Trying to decide which direction to take the build... Can't pull the trigger though. I know the end product I want but I'm hung up on the front axle (and the cost difference).
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:19 PM   #82
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Been working on an engine skid out of some steel I had sitting around. Trying to decide which direction to take the build... Can't pull the trigger though. I know the end product I want but I'm hung up on the front axle (and the cost difference).
What are your options for the front? Keeping the 8.8 out back I assume.
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Old 05-23-2014, 11:33 PM   #83
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The worlds shiniest hp30 or a hp44 narrowed to waggy with. Both would have RCVs sleeves trussed gussets cryod gears, the works. Hp30 is 1800ish hp44 is 3k. Plus some more for other stuff I want but wouldn't do right away. Hp44 can handle 40s, the 30 would top out around 36s or 37s with more maintenance. I will be doing a small front stretch as well.

Plan is to buy tires and lower my suspension and maybe BL height, outboard shocks and hiline. Then enjoy. And lock the rear finally + super 8.8.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:31 AM   #84
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I've seen first hand that a HP44 can't handle 37" Pitbulls. It was trussed and locked with after market shafts and still bent and twisted them. Unless you have a light foot and no Pitbulls (which are an unforgiving tire) you will probably have troubles with 40's.
Now on the other hand I'm running 37" with HP30 with stock shafts without problems ( insert knock on wood) but I've been told I have a light foot.
I believe it to be mostly tire and how much they slip as to how much carnage you have. IMO.
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Old 05-30-2014, 12:39 PM   #85
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40s on a front HP44 is very doable. I know multiple people who wheel with 40s on 44s without breaking anything. Ill be running 40s on my soon to be HP44 in the future.
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Old 06-08-2014, 07:20 PM   #86
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I've seen first hand that a HP44 can't handle 37" Pitbulls. It was trussed and locked with after market shafts and still bent and twisted them. Unless you have a light foot and no Pitbulls (which are an unforgiving tire) you will probably have troubles with 40's.
Now on the other hand I'm running 37" with HP30 with stock shafts without problems ( insert knock on wood) but I've been told I have a light foot.
I believe it to be mostly tire and how much they slip as to how much carnage you have. IMO.
I would rather have a smaller tire with good traction. I know it's definitely possible to kill one but it's possible to make one live, too.

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40s on a front HP44 is very doable. I know multiple people who wheel with 40s on 44s without breaking anything. Ill be running 40s on my soon to be HP44 in the future.
I believe it.

Current game plan is a polished hp30 and stock shafts as a fuse with 36s and my light foot which has served me well so far.

Almost jumped on a set of narrowed 60s but I don't have the means or time to finish them or run them right. I can't run a much bigger tire either without doing major steering mods and stretch etc, at Least to my standards. The rest of the build will give me a jeep I can use and abuse for the next half a decade before I do the "dream build" and go all out.
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Old 06-08-2014, 08:00 PM   #87
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Current game plan is a polished hp30 and stock shafts as a fuse with 36s and my light foot which has served me well so far.

Almost jumped on a set of narrowed 60s but I don't have the means or time to finish them or run them right. I can't run a much bigger tire either without doing major steering mods and stretch etc, at Least to my standards. The rest of the build will give me a jeep I can use and abuse for the next half a decade before I do the "dream build" and go all out.
Would you be interested in my almost polished HPD30? It is a vacuum disconnect model so no truss or sleeve. Im selling that along with my D44 rear this month, PM me if youd be interested in the front.
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-King 14" Remote Resi Coilovers Front/Rear, 37" MTR/K, Clayton 3-Link Front, 4-Link Rear

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Old 06-09-2014, 09:43 AM   #88
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I'm going sleeved trussed and gussetes cryod 4.10s etc, I don't think it will hold up without the added strength to prevent deflection and twisting the diff. I'm building with all new joints etc too. If its a 4.10 axle near pa I might consider though.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:25 PM   #89
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I know you have an auto but is it a 3 or 4 spd? Are 4.10's going to be low enough? I have 3 spd with 4.56 and 37's, I think I could almost go with 4.88's.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:09 PM   #90
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3. I have 4.10s now with my 33s and they are too deep. I'm not sure if I'll end up on 35,36,or 37s. But they will be plenty. Stronger gears and less torque to break stuff with when you have 4.10s too.

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