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Old 11-16-2013, 12:33 PM   #1
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Golden Goat (Goldensahara00)

We've decided to dub the next stage of this jeep build the "Golden Goat" because, why the hell not. Specifics are still being ironed out but here is a basic outline of my goals:

1) Moderately build - It's not gona be huge, but it won't be run of the mill.

2) Light - I don't want to overbuild and lose clearance. I don't want a heavy rig. I want to build smart.

3) Low, stable, and nimble - That about sums it up.

4) Budget - I build smart. I don't over spend, I look for deals for months, and I build everything I can, and do things the hard way most of the time to save a buck.

5) Daily Driver - It needs to be reliable, practical and comfortable.

6) Different - I don't need a rig that has never been done before, but I have a few things in mind that aren't so common.

This is what I'm starting with. A moderately build TJ on 33s:






2000 TJ sahara, Aussie locked d30 w/ PSC cover and Black Magic brakes, Ford 8.8 LSD w/ artec truss and a few custom things I built in, small rear stretch, rokmen GTS, PSC steering box skid, custom tummy tuck w/ separate cross member and frame height flat skid, Adams offroad rear CV DS, MC rear uppers, Rugged Ridge SYE, custom front and rear bumpers and sliders I fabbed up, 33 MTRs rear and 33 Duratracs front, raptor lined interior, no back seat, Engo winch, lots of other little mods. You can read about them all here, along with the rest of my build (including the 8.8): "Project Golden Sahara00"


I want: A reliable front axle for 36s. To go a little lower in suspension, a little wider WMS-WMS, a little front stretch (3" or so) with highlines - tube front, stock moved up in the rear. Outboard the shocks and run quality springs if mine won't do the job, and finish armoring up the engine, along with a few other things that will come as well along the way. This will get me through grad school to wheel without worrying, and then do a real build with tons after I graduate. I will have 0 time to work on anything major starting the summer of 2015.

Right now I am cashing checks, finishing this semester of school as an undergrad physical therapy major, and sifting through the classifieds like a madman. Trying to settle on a front axle, because that basically dictates the rest of my build. I don't want to run a setup that will break every other trip.

Things will be slow for a while but I wanted some place to put my thoughts and any updates as things come along.

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Old 11-16-2013, 05:36 PM   #2
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:06 PM   #3
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Well.... Not a huge update but sold the d35 today finally. 100 bucks towards a front. Got a 30 to sell minus shafts. Probably parting it. Should really take off over Christmas when I hope to make a purchase.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:04 AM   #4
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Subscribed. Can't wait to see it come together.
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Old 11-17-2013, 12:34 PM   #5
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Glad to have you guys along. Right now I'm still really up in the air about an axle choice. Anything from a built hp30 to a jk44 to a narrowed 60. Lots of things to think of when building and fitting each axle, steering, what it's actually capabilities are etc. Also depends on what kind of deal I end up finding on something built if I go that way.
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:42 PM   #6
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Ok "Billy" keep us updated. If you don't have a AntiRock in the build it's well worth it. Add it to your list. Oh and I'm running 36's with a trussed HP30 with stock axles so far so good my fingers are crossed though.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:55 PM   #7
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I'm only worried about ring and pinion in the long run. I still need to find a hp axle though if I go that way. Would love to overbuild so I can move up to 40s on the axle but that means a 60 because the 44 wheel/unit bearings/ball joints won't handle that size tire either I don't believe.


If I decide to cut the frame and move it back some when I stretch it could mess w placement of an anti rock so I'm gona hold off for now.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:21 AM   #8
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Hmmm there was a CHEAP HP30 on Clist near me not that long ago. Let me see if its still there.


EDIT: Damn not there any more. Only one I see at a quick glimpse is an empty housing thats RHD(not a big deal tho if you weld) for $100
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:28 AM   #9
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I found one near me but the guy never emailed me back. Ill keep looking around. I need to read a little more on the full size 44 bearings/joints. I know the u joints are the same but the rest varies from like a jk44 to a 78-79 ford etc.

A hp30 w cryo'd gears truss sleeve RCVs and c gussets should do the job.
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Old 11-20-2013, 09:29 AM   #10
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Im running a HP30 now, stock with no lockers on 35s. I have a truss kit for it now(got too good of a deal not to buy it, and plan on lunch box locker after new shafts and a real high steer kit around income tax time.

I dont plan on going bigger then 35s though. Id love to go 40s at some point but where I live and the laws, as well as budget concerns (I cant afford a trailer set up or tow rig to get to Raush Creek etc) its just not promising.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:33 PM   #11
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I wouldn't run a sway bar in the rear. Only the front. With my setup I don't feel the need for one. I did adjust mine so that it would be a little tighter in the front and I lost about a foot on the ramp.
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:25 PM   #12
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I can run 35s as is though. I want to build something. I like fabricating. I can run 37s legally on the road and mod late to fit 40s or whatever when I want a trailer rig and want to go full hydro etc. the sway in the rear is so small it doesn't matter much anyways so I leave it. Especially since I disco the front.

I'm looking at saving a little more and doing a 60 and bringing it in from 65" WMS to like 64-63 with wheels and w the super and conversion spacers in the rear being the 8.8 out to like 63-64. I have the # written somewhere for it. Gona have to save more though.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:27 AM   #13
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Have you considered trying a HPD44 off a ford and narrowing the axle tubes so it can accept Waggy axle shafts? The waggy axle is almost up to par on the TJ's WMS to WMS width.
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:58 AM   #14
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Have you considered trying a HPD44 off a ford and narrowing the axle tubes so it can accept Waggy axle shafts? The waggy axle is almost up to par on the TJ's WMS to WMS width.
Yes I have, however it has Same exact u joints as a d30 though so not really worth the $ and time for the marginal gain in strength. Would still have to buy Rcv shafts to be bullet proof on 37s+. I just passed an axle like you're talking about built up actually and was tempted but it was the wrong gears and needed brackets still too.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:05 PM   #15
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Well, something bad has happened... but I don't know exactly what. Front DS or T case. I'll find out for sure when I get home tomorrow or thursday. Too bad it's not exactly nice outside to work right now. Oh the joys.

Also lookin at a 60 right now.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:04 PM   #16
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Time for an upgrade when things start to break
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:17 PM   #17
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Time for an upgrade when things start to break
Was just the centering ball in the front shaft. Just gona rebuild. Almost 140k and 14+ years on it. Thought about a new shaft but I don't think it's necessary. Plus ill likely need a new shaft if I decide to go w a 60. Or stretch the front.
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Old 12-15-2013, 11:47 AM   #18
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All fixed up for about 100 in parts to rebuild the whole thing. Centering ball and socket yoke along w 3 u joints. Not a bad tear down/rebuild.
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:22 AM   #19
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Go for the hp60 it will be cheaper in the long run. I have no regrets getting mine
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:56 PM   #20
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Go for the hp60 it will be cheaper in the long run. I have no regrets getting mine
Thanks how I'm feeling. I might hit you up if I have any questions. I'm just trying to make sure I can pull it in a little and pass inspection haha.
Plus my buddy just tanked another u joint/shaft in his 30. His second in 6 months.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:06 PM   #21
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I took 2.41" off the long side that way I could use a stock shaft from a different year d60. Plus I'm running h2s they have 5-5/8" backspacing
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:08 PM   #22
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Off you get a 88-91 f350 d60 you will only need to shorten the long side. If you get a 78-79f350 d60 you will have to shorten both sides otherwise the diff will be too close to the center.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:14 PM   #23
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I dont want to thread jack but Id like to know what all goes into shortening the axle.

I passed on a sick set up earlier this year because I wouldve needed to shorten the front. Thought it was extremely difficult/costly.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:21 PM   #24
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Check out pirate 4x4 there's tons of great info on there
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:28 PM   #25
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Thanks!

I have been Sub'd to see what Golden does since I missed out on my chance I wanna live through him. lol
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6" Long arm 35" MTRs
HP30-Eaton E locker D44-Detroit locker-4.88 Ten Factory Chromo shafts.
KC/Hella, Engo 12k, LED rock lights, "train" horns, Home made-Hand Throttle, OBA, Etc etc.
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solman View Post
I took 2.41" off the long side that way I could use a stock shaft from a different year d60. Plus I'm running h2s they have 5-5/8" backspacing
I thought about the hummer wheels but I will be keeping the 8.8 rear. For now at least.
What axle/shaft did you use and then use a shaft from? That would pull me in pretty good though... I could run adapter/spacers in the rear for the H2 wheels on the 8.8. Would basically negate the width though. I would be at like 62.5 in the front (in comparison to my current wheels/setup, not actual WMS) and 61.5 w the super 8.8 kit. Not bad.

Quote:
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Off you get a 88-91 f350 d60 you will only need to shorten the long side. If you get a 78-79f350 d60 you will have to shorten both sides otherwise the diff will be too close to the center.
I'd rather only shorter one and not really tooled up to do a good job on it here. I could do it... Just not something I really wanted to tackled right now. Hmmmm. I was gona attempt to run one full width and pull it in with wheels. I would be okay with around 64 WMS. I could pull it off w inspection right now I think. So if I ran some TWF hummer wheels with a ton of back spacing I could probably make it happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by srad600 View Post
I dont want to thread jack but Id like to know what all goes into shortening the axle.

I passed on a sick set up earlier this year because I wouldve needed to shorten the front. Thought it was extremely difficult/costly.
It's not a job for your average joe, that's for sure.


Quote:
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Thanks!

I have been Sub'd to see what Golden does since I missed out on my chance I wanna live through him. lol
Well see what I can make happen. Gona focus on school and keep cashin checks. Picked up some more hours at work next semester so that will help. It's still a lot of money for an axle, swap, wheels/tires and steering.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:12 PM   #27
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Dont let me rush ya man lol! Im just curious thats all
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6" Long arm 35" MTRs
HP30-Eaton E locker D44-Detroit locker-4.88 Ten Factory Chromo shafts.
KC/Hella, Engo 12k, LED rock lights, "train" horns, Home made-Hand Throttle, OBA, Etc etc.
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:46 PM   #28
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Haha no rush. Just letting ya know nothing crazy will be happening soon. Some wheeling. Enjoying the money I spent and hours of work I put in over the summer before I tear back into it.
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:05 AM   #29
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I never measure stock axles WMS to WMS. Your looking to stay close to stock?

Id love to go full width 1ton axles but its not legal here. In the state forests where we pretty much have to wheel here(if we wanna wheel) the rangers will bust your chops if the tires stick out AT ALL from under the fender flares. Mine stick a little from the flats up front and I get "Warnings" or tickets a couple times a year.
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6" Long arm 35" MTRs
HP30-Eaton E locker D44-Detroit locker-4.88 Ten Factory Chromo shafts.
KC/Hella, Engo 12k, LED rock lights, "train" horns, Home made-Hand Throttle, OBA, Etc etc.
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:23 AM   #30
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I never measure stock axles WMS to WMS. Your looking to stay close to stock?

Id love to go full width 1ton axles but its not legal here. In the state forests where we pretty much have to wheel here(if we wanna wheel) the rangers will bust your chops if the tires stick out AT ALL from under the fender flares. Mine stick a little from the flats up front and I get "Warnings" or tickets a couple times a year.
Not legal here either. I wana go a little wider. I can probably get tons passed if I want but I gota keep em close for driving elsewhere. Ill be good at like 63-64. Stock is like 60-61. Mine stock out 2 or so inches not but I could get away with a few more.

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