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Old 07-17-2006, 10:41 PM   #1
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JeepCrawler's 2006 Build (Updated with followup!)

Well - all the parts I need for my suspension build are gravitating towards my home location in the mail as we speak, so I'm getting started on my build. Just getting started on tearing down the t-case for the SYE.





Removing the stock driveshafts shafts



Jeep-doggie looks on nervously



stock t-case fully exposed now



Does anyone know if I can get the frame inserts for the t-case skid somewhere to weld in? All of em came out except one that's spinning in place, so I had to pivot my skid out of the way - I need to grind the weld to pull out the insert, but fist I gotta figure out if I can get another one to weld in.


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Old 07-17-2006, 10:41 PM   #2
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Removing stock front yoke before I take the case apart, a breaker bar and a cheater tube was all it took (I'm doing the SYE install with the t-case on the vehicle)



Draining t-case fluid.... is it supposed to be this brown after 6000 miles?



Yoke came right off after a few light taps with a small hammer.... since when is working on Jeeps supposed to be easy? I had pullers and 25lb sledges all standing by!



The TeraFlex teralow SYE which I painted black a few days ago. Freeeeeebie! Cost: zero, zip, nada. Thanks and props to my wheeling buddy Bill!



Snap ring and bearing after being driven in. Be sure to get yourself some snap ring pliers - they make work like this SO easy!

Additional pics will be posted here: http://www.4x4tj.com/gallery2/v/Jeep...1/06jeepbuild/

Anyways - just taking a little break now - I may resume tonight, or tommorow evenig by pulling the rest apart and throwing it all back together... we'll see. Stay tuned!

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Old 07-18-2006, 08:01 AM   #3
coilovers are damn flexy
 
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Looking good........you seem to have it all under control. Did you try prying between the skid plate and the frame while reversing the bolt? I had one like that on our Rubi, and that is how I got it out.
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepCrawler98
Draining t-case fluid.... is it supposed to be this brown after 6000 miles?
I hope you are joking. If you cleaned your case out on your last fluid change then it should still look exactly like your fluid when you put it in. I had ~12k miles on my tcase fluid change with 2 deep water crossings and it still looked like day one when I pulled the case off.
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:54 AM   #5
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Got a whee bit further last night - but it was late and went to bed;



I was trying to remove the tailshaft assembly, and wondered why the heck it wasn't going anywhere even after I removed the lock-ring behind the seal.... so I removed the seal; I guess Jeep put a lock-ring behind the bearing's snap-ring as well (annoying, but that's to be expected )


Tailhousing removed and oil pump exposed, which pulled right out. I got the bolts removed to split the t-case, I just gotta figure out how now, haha, oh well shouldn't be too bad - I'll give that a shot tonight. From what I can see so far from the internals everything looks to be in good shape; even the drive chain (from what I could see). Tailshaft bearing also felt very nice and smooth and had no slop - which is good news and I take it as a precursor of other bearings inside (even though I wont be re-using it at all) as it takes the most abuse on a t-case dropped TJ with 4" lift.
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD
I hope you are joking. If you cleaned your case out on your last fluid change then it should still look exactly like your fluid when you put it in. I had ~12k miles on my tcase fluid change with 2 deep water crossings and it still looked like day one when I pulled the case off.
Nope

Obviously no water crossings in AZ - oddly enough the residual fluid in the t-case was a healthy red. I wonder if the fluid before this having over 100K on it would have anything to do with it, lol.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluvikng
Looking good........you seem to have it all under control. Did you try prying between the skid plate and the frame while reversing the bolt? I had one like that on our Rubi, and that is how I got it out.
Tried that a little bit - didn't work. I guess I'll try it again with a pry-bar.

Did you end up replacing yours? or did you just leave it.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:31 AM   #8
coilovers are damn flexy
 
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Originally Posted by JeepCrawler98
Tried that a little bit - didn't work. I guess I'll try it again with a pry-bar.

Did you end up replacing yours? or did you just leave it.
I went to the local parts store, and they told me to drill out the stripped threads, and put in a hella core, I did not like that idea, so just put a bunch of lock-tite on it, and reamed it back up in there. It hasn't moved, so I guess it's ok. I know that is not the best fix, but that is what I did. I also realize the next time I have to drop the skid plate, I will be faced with the same problem. I should go to the stealership, and ask them about a replacement nut, to weld back in there.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:47 AM   #9
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Yeah I wouldnt think a helicoil would even work on a compression nutsert - I'll let you know if I find someone that carries the weld in bungs.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepCrawler98
Yeah I wouldnt think a helicoil would even work on a compression nutsert - I'll let you know if I find someone that carries the weld in bungs.

If I can get a leaf spring bucket from a 94 YJ I'd think you could get the weld in bung for your TJ straight from the dealer.
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Old 07-18-2006, 11:07 AM   #11
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looks good...you got the SYE for free??? man, thats awesome...those things are expensive...what about a new cv style driveshaft??
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Old 07-18-2006, 12:04 PM   #12
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Still paying for that one



Two halves separated exposing the drive chain and output shafts. I tried to look for the prying slots - but couldn't find them.... well that is until afterwards of course, haha - oh well, good to know for the future. A shallow angle chisel held parallel with the mating surface made quick work of it and didn't leave a scratch (luckily)



T-case half with filter and tube removed - the pickup magnet didn't have much metal on it at all so that's good



Stock drive gears and shafts




Comparison between the shafts - length is obvious, the picture doesn't do the shafts justice - the new unit is BEEFY!


After removing the stock lock ring on the old shaft with snap-ring pliers (tricky), I happilly reinstalled the new gears, with a supplied snap-ring that came with the kit (snap-ring are way cooler than lock rings )



Reinstalled in the t-case.

That's it for now - will resume more tonight of course once the thing gets put back together
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:29 PM   #13
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lol yeah i know what ya mean...there expensive! lol
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Old 07-18-2006, 06:22 PM   #14
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David, Excellent pictures and write ups on the SYE. That will serve well for anyone wanting to do this on their own, but might not think they are able to do so.

You get that all back together we'll have to do some wheelin. Ran the whole Gap trail from Catalina to Oracle a few weeks ago. Man that thing is a long day. Awesome scenery though.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BLKJP
David, Excellent pictures and write ups on the SYE. That will serve well for anyone wanting to do this on their own, but might not think they are able to do so.

You get that all back together we'll have to do some wheelin. Ran the whole Gap trail from Catalina to Oracle a few weeks ago. Man that thing is a long day. Awesome scenery though.
Thanks but it's short lived! As I was tightening up the final bolt on the tailshaft housing I head a nice little pop and noticed a hairline fracture near the threadss on the rear t-case half, so now I need to get a new rear half, FAST! Annoying thing was that it wasn't even anywhere near the torque spec, bah! Just my luck; I mean how the heck do you screw that up? I guess the housing wasn't coming down evenly (even though I was criss crossing the tightening sequence) - which I couldn't see because of the RTV.

Soooooooooooo anyone know where I can get a rear t-case half? I was thinking about getting it welded as it's still a fairly small crack - but it would mean one DEEP penetrating weld.

I'll post up a pic and see what ya'lls opinions are
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:08 AM   #16
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I got sidetracked and decided to chase the threads in the frame nuts for the skid:



Bolts go in finger tight now - should prevent any further slipping nutserts

Ok - here's how the Install SHOULD have gone:



Cleaning off old gasket material, degreasing with alcohol, and applying a 1/8" bead of RTV. Reinstall the oil pump at this point as well.



T-case half bolted up



Speedo gear installed (FYI - piston ring pliers make excellent lock ring pliers as well)



Checking speedo sensor for clearance



Tailshaft housing bolted up and yokes installed (yeah... right...) hooray! all done!


NOW - here is where it cracked



It's a VERY thin crack (hence the name hairline) - what do you guys think? Replace? Weld? Ignore?
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Old 07-19-2006, 07:26 AM   #17
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if it were me, id take it down to my local machine shop (guys that i trust) and ask them if they could weld it.....if they were confident they could do it, id give it a shot.

but then again, im a tightwad, just look at my junk
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:21 PM   #18
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So David, is the crack all the way thru the case? If it's not and it's just a hairline surface crack then som JB Weld might be the way to go for you. I had a crack in my case that I JB Welded up and it held fine until I blew up the case for good.
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:45 PM   #19
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It's all the way through the back casing. I have it sitting at a shop right now - they say they're gonna grind a notch on both sides, tig it up, remachine the mating surface, and retap the threads, costing me '$75 or less'.

Personally I think it's a bit of a ripoff at 75 bucks, but I dont really have a choice.

I hope they get it back to me somewhat timely - I'm getting into a time crunch here since I need to have my driveshaft in by next Friday (going with Tom Woods) and need to have it bolted back together so I can measure the length.
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:49 PM   #20
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Pisser bro. Well at least you found someone down there that will weld on the aluminum. I couldn't find anyone up here to save my arse that would tackle welding on my tranny.
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Old 07-19-2006, 05:21 PM   #21
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Yep - like a spec of sand going through the hourglass, another day of drama in "As the Jeep doesn't turn"

I do have my suspension coming in tommorow, and my JKS rear track bar is shipping out as well and should be here next week; consider yourselves lucky, you're up for more eDrama and entertainment

Oh I scored the JKS rear t-bar and the RE CV bracket for 186 bucks from DPG off-road, free shipping. These guys rock! Not only is it one of the top (if not THE top) rear trackbars on the market, it costs less than most in the end as well from these guys
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Old 07-19-2006, 06:56 PM   #22
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You could always consider the Tera-low as an option. That will give you a new back half of your T-case. Just a thought.
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Old 07-19-2006, 07:11 PM   #23
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Nope - that would just be the front half.
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Old 07-19-2006, 07:13 PM   #24
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ok, my bad.
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:33 PM   #25
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I got the skid plate removed finally - I had to cut through the bolt with a grinder to get it to drop, now I can see why it wouldn't even budge - I can fully push the bolt into the frame, the nut portion of the insert is fully broken off apparently.... now I have a bolt stuck inside a nutsert that won't come out.

I bought a new 'nut' from the dealer, which should arrive on friday, and I'm working on removing the old nutsert - but if it requires a special compression tool to expand the nutsert once installed I'll probably just drill a hole on the top of the frame, insert a sleeve, and 'through bolt' the skidplate onto it.
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:51 AM   #26
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Here's some more close-ups of the t-case crack:

Outside:


Inside:


I was able to remove the nutsert that was busted for the xmember mounts as well - you can see where it simply just sheared free from the rest of the nut. Quality stuff I guess for 18 grand for a soap box on a 4wd system they couldn't afford aerospace grade stuff.



Here's the frame with the insert gone:


I'm just gonna drill a hole at the top and use a long bolt if that nut they give me ends up being a PITA to use Next time any of you have the skid down - take some time to clean up the threads on these things and coat the bolts with anti-seize so that they're less likely to fail.

More stuff tommorow once the long arm comes in (supposedly).
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Old 07-20-2006, 09:45 AM   #27
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Looks like you waited too long to do all this stuff! If you do it right off the showroom floor, I hear that all the bolts come right out! Gotta love working on Jeeps! We just had to torch a hole in a CJ frame because the "nut" for the steering box broke loose... That would be another option, cutting an access hole to get a wrench on the nut inside the frame... Good luck with the L.A kit, and keep us updated!!!!
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Old 07-20-2006, 12:45 PM   #28
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Got the LAT in from Elias today I'd take some pictures - but I'm on my way off to work Lou was a great guy to work with and cut me one HECK of a deal 914 shipped from MA - I'd recommend him to anyone; be sure to do it by phone as his website is not always up to date (and is not even close to the inventory he carries). He normally charges 860, which is already 100 less than the next cheapest competion I've found - but knocked off an additional 40 bucks. Shipping was killer though.

I'll keep you guys posted!

-D
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:27 PM   #29
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very nice deal...haven't seen any other long arms for that cheap
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Old 07-20-2006, 06:32 PM   #30
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I'm so tired of FedEx - they TOTALLY left a bunch of trash on my doorstep.

What am I gonna do with this?







I mean - really; will somebody help me haul away this stuff to the dump?

Anyways - close up of the flex joints, no, they don't come with 20 dollar bills installed :





Bushing close-up (frame end):



Both joints use removable inserts so that the joint style can be easily changed over to varying stifnesses of rubber or polyurethane, or varying styles of cardridge joints to fine tune your needs.

Control arms, 1.75" .281 wall DOM:



Frame mounts - these are 1/4" steel, and hug the frame. They are powdercoated with some very heavy duty powder coat that almost seems like bedliner (except it isn't):


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