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RKKRAWL Spidertrax Build

23K views 74 replies 13 participants last post by  RKKRAWL 
#1 ·
A few things added here and there.
Rear axle done and installed
5.43 gears, ARB RD99CE Competition Air Locker, 300M axles, Pro housing and Ultimate Unit Bearings, Dodge 2500 rear brakes, Artec truss. Gearworks HDHP 10 Trophy Truck 3rd






Front axle a work in progress
5.43 gears, ARB RD99CE Competition Air Locker, 300M axles, CTM U-joints, Pro housing and knuckles, Artec truss, Dodge 2500 dual piston calipers. Gearworks HDHP 10 Trophy Truck 3rd






Crazy steering angle, at 50 degrees it looks like it is broken!


Genright 3 link front suspension

2.5 King Coilovers with remote compression adjusters
The next pieces of the puzzle, now the fun begins!
 
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#3 ·
Front axle is slowly progressing, may have a slight problem in that the Spidertrax knuckles will turn to 50 degrees, they might end up hitting the lower control arms. Will have to run them that way for now, if they do end up hitting will have to run a bent lower control arm to clear the tires.



 
#6 ·
You can build a custom steering stop for that. Just long enough to stop them from hitting arms. Or you can run bent arms, depends on the speeds your running. But all I can say is damn that's alot of money in those 2 jewels lol. You jumping this thing?
 
#7 ·
Not jumping it, just a lot of rock crawling. If my calcs come out right, it will hit the frame before the arms but it's a lot of junk in a very small space. Should be able to have the ram configured so the it will limit the turning radius. Fingers crossed!
 
#9 ·
Making slow progress, got the front end links mocked up and seeing how much room there is for the steering and track bar. Front link mounts ended up with 8 1/2" of separation and the rear has 9". Axle should end up 4" or 5" forward, lower links should end up either 37" or 38" long. Part of the problem with locating the track bar and steering linkage is the HP Gearworks 10 third member, the high pinion does not require as much pinion angle compensation so the steering arms are sticking up toward the frame more cutting down on clearance between the frame and the linkage.



 
#12 ·
The more I look at this thread.. the more you are making me want to coilover my TURD build.. STAHP!!!! LOL. My wife is going to shoot me soon...
 
#13 ·
You wouldn't believe the difference in ride comfort and compliance with the coilovers. When I'm on the trail access roads I'm cruising along between 20 to 35 MPH and look back and everybody's gone, wait for them to catch up and they say what's your hurry and I'm like I'm just taking it easy. That's only with the rears, when the fronts are done i think I'm going to catch hell. The best mods that on are the Jeep are the 4 speed Atlas, then the King air bumps and coilovers.

Progress is slow right now, trying to fit the drag link and track bar in the same space is getting frustrating. Wouldn't be so bad but the front end is pushed forward almost 5". Fits fine at ride height, full bump and everything is trying to occupy the same space when turning.

Hopefully mine will hold together for awhile after this project, can't afford V8 power any time soon although a Hemi conversion would have been a lot cheaper than this project. Good luck with yours.
 
#14 ·
Had to bend the track bar and the drag link, which has it's own set of problems. With the Spidertrax steering arms on the outside hole, steering angle is less than stock. The closer you come to the knuckle pivot the more steering angle you have, solutions are increase the length of the pitman arm or decrease the length of the steering arm - both create real estate problems. The driver's side link mount seems to bind at full droop so a little creative engineering will hopefully solve that problem.



 
#17 ·
Steering arms are built with as much Ackerman as possible. Now to fit it up and see where there's room to put the hydraulic assist ram. Without doing another 10 hours of fitment work to get the very last inch of steering angle, looks like it's going to be between 40 to 42.5 degrees of steering angle.











 
#18 ·
Wow good stuff, gotta go change my pants now!
 
#20 ·
Axles are going in, (Spidertrax 300m inner and outer with CTM U-joints) nice to be able to not have to take things apart all the time to test fit. Control arms are cut and adjusted, upper link mount on axle may have to be re-done, it might need to be taller to clear the high pinion third. Axle will allow a full 50 degrees of steering and while it's out for final fitting I am going to redo the steering to get 50 degrees of inside wheel turning with the ackerman angle. Next will be to set up travel and locate the King air bumps, then locate the limit straps for full droop. May see daylight this month.


 
#21 ·
Oops, looks like I didn't measure twice, cut once. Not a mistake, that's how far the front end got pushed forward if everything else goes according to plan. Still looking like 5-6" of up travel and I might be able to get the 50 degrees of steering on the inside wheel but the outside won't go that far because of the Ackerman angle.

 
#22 ·
Your thread and few other's I've been watching have made me change my mind on my build. I'm going with the 3 link tri4 rear now.. I don't have the $ to coilover yet. But that can be done later. Thanks for your inspiration :pc-ouch:

Meanwhile my wife just walks by and asked..
"are you looking at Jeep porn again?" :jawdrop:

I said we could sell the car and my jeep could have axles like that :bop:

Very nice work on making the stuff work. Have fun with the bumps.. They are sometimes more challenging than people think they are.
 
#23 ·
Mine says the same thing, as long as you're looking to jeep porn - no worries. Except she wants to hide the cash and credit cards. You can always do the rear 4 link with coilovers, save some cash then do the fronts later. The air bumps will make a hugs difference in ride quality.
 
#24 ·
Started mocking up the King bump stops, got both sides tacked up, now to cycle the suspension and will have to clearance the frame for the drag link. Moving the axle forward 4-5" makes finding room for all the pieces a little dicey when the steering box is still in the stock location.

 
#25 ·
Setting bump stop collapsed height and adjusting shock travel. Tried for 6" up travel but ran out of real estate for the track bar, drag link and PS ram all wanting to occupy the same space so had to settle for 5" up travel. Should be a driver this week, now for all the piddly stuff that has to be done.



 
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