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Old 09-26-2010, 10:05 PM   #1
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Starting Ford 8.8 Build

Just got my Ford 8.8 on jack stands and it's time to build it up in preparation of some hi-rise love. So far I've gotten the differential off and the axle somewhat cleaned up. I'll post pictures as I go, but realize this is a process that's going to take me until early next year as I save up money.

I know it's out of a 90s Explorer, don't know year. But it does have disc brakes and a LSD, picked it up from a forum member here for $200. The backing plates are crushed so they'll have to be replaced, but after a good sanding and primer and flat black spray, this should clean up beautifully. I'm having a local shop weld up the brackets and the tubes and then later down the line will try to find someone local who wants to do gearing.

Anyone have any suggestions for locating TJ brackets? The Moores are a little expensive. I'm looking at Ruff Stuff's kit which has some good recommandations, but what else will I need along with it?

Ford 8.8 Rear Axle Simple Swap (31 spline) [8.8 Simple Swap (31 splin] - $120.00, Reviews




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Old 09-26-2010, 10:23 PM   #2
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:27 AM   #3
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Here ya go. Everything you need in kit form. And they only charge $5 for shipping, making it an even $430...............

kNOw Where 2Jeep Complete Ford 8.8 Install Kit For Wrangler TJ
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:33 PM   #4
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Thanks a lot to both of you. Exactly what I was looking for! I'm probably going to go with KW2J because the complete kit comes with the flange adapter and brake line kit + emergency lines for only $55 more. But I know Rusty's components are solid.

My plans are to sand down and clean up the axle, spray it flat black. Then do new rotors, pads, and caliphers. New backing plate. POSSIBLY new axles, but I might have to pull those first to be sure if I want to hold off on those.

Once this is ready to go I'm going to regear myself. The axle is out and I've read three million guides. I know the job isn't apparently difficult, but it takes a lot of patience and precision. I'm going to set aside a nice week to work on the gearing.

My only hope is that it coincides with me having saved up enough for new 35" tires. Not fun trying to run 4.88 on 31" tires and pay the gas for it course I'll be flying with those RPMs on the trail. I'm doing a 4" Zone suspension lift and a Tom Wood CV/SYE combo.

Now here's to hoping I get into SMU so I can legally run this Jeep
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:47 PM   #5
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Looks like a good build. If you know of a local place that can do sandblasting. I would have them do that once you remove everything and get it powder coated.

The place down the road for me charges a wopping $40 to sandblast my whole stock sport cage and its done in an hour.
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:13 PM   #6
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How does the 8.8 hold up compared to the D44?, Just curious, I don't know much about differentials besides a D44 is good to have and a D60 is better, lol.
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:52 PM   #7
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How does the 8.8 hold up compared to the D44?, Just curious, I don't know much about differentials besides a D44 is good to have and a D60 is better, lol.
An 8.8 is kind of like a bridge between a D44 and a D60. Little stronger than the D44, but not as beefy as the D60. An 8.8 can handle 37s, no problem.
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:17 PM   #8
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check out IronRockOffroad.com...Getting ready to do a HP D30/8.8 swap... i have the Hp D30 just need to get the 8.8
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:05 PM   #9
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One more question...what makes the HP30 so much better than the reg D30...anything besides the fact that its high pinion. Its pretty much the same thing right?

I see alot of people running 35s or 37s on a HP D30...why cant I run 37s on a reg d30 thats trussed and has upgraded axles??....NO locker
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:12 PM   #10
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A Hp D30 has reverse cut gears which, that setup is around 35% stronger than the LP D30's setup. And also like you said you get your driveshaft out of harms way. The internals of a HP d30 could hold 37's if you got some chromoly shafts, but its the external componets that fail, such as balljoints and such that cannot really hold 37's well, but with that said ive seen it done and have thought of doing it but IDK lol
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:22 PM   #11
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Yes, now that you said that about the reverse gears I remember hearing that.

Finding a D44 or even a HP30 around here for a swap is gonna be hard to come buy for a decent price. The junk yards here are very cocky and they think the parts they sell are friggin gold. They dont even let you in the actual yard to find what you want. They have an office, you tell them what you want, they tell you what they have. Then they send one of the yard grunts to go get it.
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:33 PM   #12
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ya i had to find my HP 30 on craigslist, got it for $150. The best years are 96-99 as they are non vacum disconect and have stroger u joints. Dont get a axle out of a 2000 and up XJ because its a LP D30.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:57 PM   #13
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would a 95 still work?
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:17 PM   #14
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would a 95 still work?
Yes, you would just have to make a block-off plate for the vacuum disconnect.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:18 PM   #15
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ya it will work but the u-joints arnt as strong, like i said earlier 96-99 are the best, i got a 96
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:19 PM   #16
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ya it will work but the u-joints arnt as strong
Won't matter if you replace the axles with chromoly axles. But you're right as far as stockers go.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:22 PM   #17
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Ok cool, Im just combing through local craigslist adds, making a couple offers.
I actually found quite a few, just gotta get them to bite the bait.
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:26 PM   #18
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Looks like a good build. If you know of a local place that can do sandblasting. I would have them do that once you remove everything and get it powder coated.

The place down the road for me charges a wopping $40 to sandblast my whole stock sport cage and its done in an hour.
That's not a bad idea, definitely would be worth the money to have it sand blasted down, just gotta make sure I have a way so that the inside of the differential isn't hit.

And KBR97, I know exactly what you mean about the yards treating their items like gold. Most shops I've been to will let you go back and look at the parts. One in Trevose just drives you back there and lets you pick and pull whenever. The one next door to me HyWay Garage sold me a black soft top for $100 with windows, after some bargaining. Nicest guy in the world and let me go back by myself and everything to look at it. Had it ready the next day for me.

Go back a month later and a different guy tells me they don't bargain and they under no circumstance permit any customers to go back there. Rude as hell. Then tells me that maybe I should just come back when I save up some more money cause I wasn't paying $60 for a seat belt latch.

Tilghman's in Juliustown, Nj is quality. They won't let you back in the yard except for Sat and Sun but the prices are fair and they are probably the most helpful people I've dealt with. Junkyards are really hit or miss.
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:25 AM   #19
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Around here, the salvage yards/junk yards use "liability" as an excuse to not let you into the yard. You tell them what you want, they see if they have it, then if they do, they'll bring it to the office. No looking around. Bummer.
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I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you with tears in my eyes, if you f**k with me, I'll kill you all.....
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:53 AM   #20
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Around here, the salvage yards/junk yards use "liability" as an excuse to not let you into the yard.
See for a lot of parts I'm not interested in buying it unless I can see it first. Things like fuel pumps and cables I'll take their word, but things like tops and fenders then I'm not wasting anyone's time if I can't see it.

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