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THE NOBAMA BUILD: this change is actually good.

9K views 61 replies 12 participants last post by  BusinessRogue 
#1 ·
Fellow Jeepers! This will be my new build thread for my:

1999 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
4.0L | 6 Cylinder | 5-Speed
4" RC Lift
2" BL
33x12.50R15 Wrangler MT/R Kevlar's
Dana 30 / Dana 35 (Stock/Stock)

After having to change multiple items on this Jeep, I kept finding thing after thing requiring service, maintenance or overall swapping out. This, of course, has led to wanting "more" for no real good reason other than, "I can." The overall design is going to be low, wide and cram 37's on her. I want good center of gravity, and with the custom long CA's I'm going to be building I'll have somewhat of a "better" ride. I already purchased a Ford 8.8 (31 Spline) rear axle, and a Dana 44 front housing. I'd really like to build most of what I do to this Jeep, being that I have the shop space and the tools. I'd appreciate any and all input / suggestions while this progresses. Like everything in life, this comes second from my family/career and is sped up and slowed down via financial stability. lol

My whole idea of the "prime Jeep" is something you can be tooling down the road in, and throw it off road, go where you want (within the vehicles limits) and pop back on the road and head home. Here in the mid-west we get some crazy winters so I want something that will travel well through a lot of snow and if I end up on the side of the road or in a field I can get out. When it is, "where I want it," I do want to plan a trip to Colorado.

Here is where she sits now:



In the woods:

 
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#10 ·
The Ford 8.8

Found a kid on craigslist who had blown up the engine of a 2001 Explorer so I did what anyone would do...help him strip it down! I got the 8.8 31 spline for $125.00 which includes disk brakes and a whole lotta ring gear.

The other night I broke down the axle to the housing and have purchased a Timken rebuild kit and a c-clip eliminator kit. I am on the fence of purchasing a new carrier (limited slip) and just locking the front.

Any opinions on LS rear and locking front? I'll post pics later tonight of my progress.
 
#12 ·
Awesome, I'm excited to go that route. I can't lunch box the rear because it is a DD and we get a ton of snow here so I found that to be the best option.

I have a 44 housing bought, going to build it up and was heavily leading towards OX for that locker solution.

Did you purchase the Artec 8.8 TJ swap kit? I'm curious about cutting off all the other brackets prior to receiving the new ones in case I need to use the old ones to measure up the new. (Hope that makes sense)

:beerme:
 
#13 ·
I am local to East Coast Gear. I had them install everything. I have read the Artec is the way to go for doing it yourself...

I am still deciding on a locker for the front of mine... I don't wanna do a auto in the front cause we get snow here too.
I must admit I have not needed a locker in the front on any of the trails or rocks that I have done....
 
#14 ·
I am local to East Coast Gear. I had them install everything. I have read the Artec is the way to go for doing it yourself...

I am still deciding on a locker for the front of mine... I don't wanna do a auto in the front cause we get snow here too.
I must admit I have not needed a locker in the front on any of the trails or rocks that I have done....
Got it! That's good to know. I did purchase the artec TJ kit with truss. I'll post an in depth how-to / messed-it-up article when I get to it.
 
#16 ·
Clutch Repair

Had an issue with my clutch not engaging and almost sticking the transmission where I couldn't shift into any gears, and reverse would mash. I purchased a new LUK Clutch Kit an decided to swap it out.



Here's the clutch, well worn out. (Note: I've only put 2,000 miles on this clutch and yes, I know how to drive a standard).



This was when we had to take down the transfer case plate. Couldn't believe my eyes. I'm repairing the frame this week in all the bad spots.



I cut out what was bad and filled in with some thicker plate. Excuse my piss poor welds, but spotty semi-rusted metal is a PITA to weld on. My Miller 212 was struggling, too.



I've got some various spots in the frame I'll be plasma cutting out and replacing with 3/16 and welding in to match the frame.



Hopefully I can get these all fixed and retain some strength. I plan on putting some cross bracing for the frame to help stiffen it up.
 
#17 ·
Control Arm Brackets

While being under the TJ and pulling out the transmission / transfer case I found a couple things:

1.) The frame is shit.
2.) The lower CA brackets are shit.

So, off to Ruff Stuff I went. I got two new lower CA brackets that are BEEFY. I'll be grinding off the OEM ones this weekend and welding on these new ones. I'm very excited with how much more steel is one these aftermarket brackets compared to the stock OEM stamped sheet metal.



I also got a new tool for cutting my Control Arms! (note: the shop needed one of these anyways for a big job so it worked out great for me lol)

 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
Pre-Clutch-Going-Out-Drive

I forgot to post these in the very beginning. Here was the beautiful drive I was on prior to my clutch going out. lol If any of you are on IG and want to see more pics that I may not post here (I forget many things) then follow me on Instagram! (@ZeroF**ksGivn)





 
#25 ·
Looking at some winches for the Jeep. I'm kind of a brand whore with some things, mainly because some of these product manufacturers do build incredible equipment.

I'm looking at some WARN winches, and found this one and I feel at a really great price. Anyone have any advice what else I'd want to purchase WITH the winch IE: covers, clevices, etc. etc?

Warn VR8000 Winch
 
#26 ·
The VR 8 is Chinese. Spring for the M8000. Its worth the extra coin.


On a side not I just found out my Mrs. is ordering me some 3 inch tapered flares from Spyder or Metalcloak arched for my 40th. I just gotta wait to see which she chose.

Oooph, I can't wait...
 
#27 ·
I did not know that about that particular model. That's really good to know. I refuse to buy foreign if I can get it made here in the USA (and if I want to be even more picky, by legal US Citizens).

Those are going to look great on your rig brother! I really want some genrite rear corner guards / 6" fender flare to match my front tube fenders. I'm really trying to stay focused on mechanical / drivetrain prior to visuals. lol

It'll be rolling sheet-metal before it's got new bumpers and stuff on it. HAHA

I just hope it gets back on the road within this week.
 
#28 ·
I am the same way if I can help it. (buying American)

I am trying to decide currently about rear tube flares and corner guards or just rolling the dice with just the flare and no corner guard.
Any thoughts? Sinister6 you can chime in too if'n you want to.
 
#29 ·
I am the same way if I can help it. (buying American)

I am trying to decide currently about rear tube flares and corner guards or just rolling the dice with just the flare and no corner guard.
Any thoughts? Sinister6 you can chime in too if'n you want to.
It makes (to me) more sense to get the corner guard and flare. Reason being, if you have rock rails you'll always have this weird spot in your tub that looks like its "missing something" because of the space difference after putting on just fenders. It really looks better to bring it all together with the whole fender and guards.
 
#30 ·
BIG UPDATE!

She's back on the road! After a couple of snags with putting everything back together (pilot bearing/u-joints) it's finally running and driving. So, not only did I get a new clutch out of the deal, but now my 4x4 indicator lights work. LOL

Here she is being a dumb whore still.



Here she is finally back together.



Here she is all clean.



Then like every single time I wash my Jeep...



Now, when I washed my TJ I found a bunch of micro swirls in the hood, doors, front panels, and rear corners. I can't stand that shit (I don't care if it's a Jeep it doesn't need to look like a pile of dookie). So I went to work with some compound and a 1500 grit dual action pad, and then finished off with a 3000 grit dual action pad. I think it came out great.



I'm sort of at a stand still right now with all the projects going on in the shop so I haven't been able to get time on the weekends to work on the Jeep. All in due time. I did, however, figure out why my rear floor carpet insert is always wet when it's raining. The dude who installed the carpet inserts didn't put back in the drain plugs in the tub or he drilled holes in the rear (genius move). SO - those are now plug welded.

This is just for a little giggle for all you NOBAMA folks out there which happens to be over 86% of US Citizens, which *GASP* is the majority. ;)

 
#31 ·
BIG UPDATE!

She's back on the road! After a couple of snags with putting everything back together (pilot bearing/u-joints) it's finally running and driving. So, not only did I get a new clutch out of the deal, but now my 4x4 indicator lights work. LOL

Here she is being a dumb whore still.

Here she is finally back together.

Here she is all clean.

Then like every single time I wash my Jeep...

Now, when I washed my TJ I found a bunch of micro swirls in the hood, doors, front panels, and rear corners. I can't stand that shit (I don't care if it's a Jeep it doesn't need to look like a pile of dookie). So I went to work with some compound and a 1500 grit dual action pad, and then finished off with a 3000 grit dual action pad. I think it came out great.

I'm sort of at a stand still right now with all the projects going on in the shop so I haven't been able to get time on the weekends to work on the Jeep. All in due time. I did, however, figure out why my rear floor carpet insert is always wet when it's raining. The dude who installed the carpet inserts didn't put back in the drain plugs in the tub or he drilled holes in the rear (genius move). SO - those are now plug welded.

This is just for a little giggle for all you NOBAMA folks out there which happens to be over 86% of US Citizens, which *GASP* is the majority. ;)

[/QUOTE . not to bring politics into this forum but Obama is destroying this country at very fast pace. I love your nobama build.
 
#35 ·
Going to start working on my gussets for the D30 and purchasing the OX Locker for the front.

I did, however, get the Artec Truss Kit for my 8.8 purchased and now I'm awaiting for that to arrive, along with the new gearing for the 8.8 to match my front D30 and I believe that's all the updates for now.

I re-ran the wiring for my lights, and the switch so now it's cleaner on the inside. I'll post a pic either today or tomorrow.



 
#36 ·
Going to start working on my gussets for the D30 and purchasing the OX Locker for the front.

I did, however, get the Artec Truss Kit for my 8.8 purchased and now I'm awaiting for that to arrive, along with the new gearing for the 8.8 to match my front D30 and I believe that's all the updates for now.

I re-ran the wiring for my lights, and the switch so now it's cleaner on the inside. I'll post a pic either today or tomorrow.
Thumbs:)
 
#38 ·
Little update: going in to get an alignment after putting on new 1-ton tie-rod ends on the DOM tubing for my tie-rod and drag-link. I can feel I messed it up and it looks like 1-2 weights fell off my drivers tire so I'm going to have them re-balanced and rotated.

I'd do it myself, but I only have one Jack and two Jack stands and since the alignment place will do it all for $69 I said "get it done!"

Hope fully it will smooth out the right a bit.
 
#41 ·
Been stalling getting my ball joints in - I had ordered some Synergy ball joints and honestly wasn't impressed with the ones I received (considering the $ they cost) so I shipped them back and got some Napa HD ball joints for a considerable amount less that also come with a lifetime warranty. Can't go wrong there.

My cute little motorcycle turn signal LED lights finally died on me. So I got some cool 3.5" round LED turn signals that I'm going to put on my TJ and make it look like what a JK should look like. :rofl:

The 8.8 is getting sand blasted this week and I finally got all the old brackets cut off of it, once it's back the Artec Truss / brackets will be welded on. Once that is all done I'm taking it to a local shop and having it re-geared (since I have 0 experience re-gearing) to 4.88. I opted for the limited slip in the rear and will locker the front D44 housing with an OX selectable cable locker.

It's a very slow, long process but I'm sure it will be beefier within the end of 2015 into 2016 at which point it'll be paid off, what little I do owe on it. With all the work I'm putting into it I upgraded my insurance to protect all the additional items that are "on" the Jeep for $7 extra a month, which are appraised (since my insurance guy is my neighbor - I appraise the items) and covered in full if something goes boom.
 
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