I have a 2000 jeep wrangler 4.0. I recently swamped it out and my dad and i got it running good again, so now its time to work from top down and make it into the great jeep it can be! First off, The body is in bad shape rusting out at just about every body mount, so I picked up a new tub for just 475$ (which is a great deal!) it is rust free, the only problem with it is that the PO got in a wreck with his jeep so the front right body mount is a little off set. Other than that, which is a minor fix, it is in great shape! We are beginning to take off the old tub tomorrow and planning to work on it through the summer and put in a few new parts, along with a few mods ill keep a build thread and update it through the process
In the very first post we mentioned that JeepKing hydro-locked his engine. I think the Devil has come for his due. Some internal parts of his 4.0L decided to become external.
That is the connecting rod for #1 piston you can see though the recently redesigned oil pan. Any thoughts of a rebuild were quickly ended when we found this.....
So we purchased a remanufactued long block from Autozone. It was $2000+$510 core and has a 3yr unlimited mile warranty. His core is obviously not rebuilable however a few emails to a fellow forum member solved that problem. I procured an acceptable core short block for $75 on which we will install our cyl head and recoup our core. As a bonus it has the main bearing brace and oil pan which are destroyed on the original engine.
So we began tear down the engine for removal. With the valve cover removed we found this..
Looking closely there is a bit of coolant next to the valve spring signifying a cracked head. This is common on '00-'01 4.0s with the 0331 casting and was probably a contributing factor in our engines demise.
After 6hrs we have the engine out and ready to transfer covers, pulleys, clutch, etc.
Like my homemade engine attachment for the hoist.
I will document more in-depth as we swap the necessary parts from one engine to the other.
The most time consuming phase was cleaning all the required old parts.
Cleaned timing and valve covers, oil pan, main bearing brace, water pump (only few months old), tstat housing, and all fasteners.
Gave the intake manifold and throttle body a thorough cleaning.
Next is re-assembly. This part I stood back and assisted when asked. JeepKing outfitted the long block torquing all fasteners per the FSM.
A blank canvas.
Front half assembled.
I forgot to get a pic but we rotated the engine upside down to install the main bearing brace, oil pump, and oil pan. The engine was turned upright and filled with oil. Using a tool I made from an old OPDA shaft chucked into a 1/2" drill we primed the oil pump. Prior to valve cover installation set the engine at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke for #1 cyl. This was in preparation to install the OPDA. After aligning the timing marks on the OPDA, it was installed.
The last step on the engine stand were the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Once his engine was removed from the stand we installed the pilot bushing, flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. The engine is assembled!
Using our homemade cherry picker the engine was mated with JeepKings TJ!
Yeah nice thread I wish my dad would work of my jeep with me more.... But we have a 1970 cuda that needs put together in our barn. But I had a quick question, I know you guys got a new tub for one of your jeeps, when you did that how does it work with the title and everything? Like when you buy the tub do you need to get a title with it or can you just take off the old and it will still have the same title and vin number and such? Thanks Joey
Thanks for the compliments! When we replaced the '00 tub with the '03 we used all of the interior from the '00. Since the VIN is affixed to the dash it was transferred to the new tub. We did nothing title wise.
Ok gotcha that makes sense thanks so nothing is necessary as long as the vin comes over from the dash it would be fine. Thanks Joey just in case I end up doing this in 10 years or something haha. And one more question, what do you think about the rustoleum truck bed coating on the inside and outside of your tub? I've used it once only on the doors a little on mine and I did primer before.
With the engine sitting in it's mounts we reinstalled the grill, radiator, fan, alternater, power steering, coil rail, fuel injector harness, and accessory belt. We labeled all electrical and vacuum connections so they were a simple matter of matching and plugging. With the topside done we placed the Jeep on the hoist. From the bottom side we tightened the bellhousing bolts. Then installed the starter and exhaust crossover pipe. Crossover pipe was welded to the exhaust were we had to cut for removal. 02 sensors were plugged in. Placed the Jeep on the floor.
Oil was already put in when we primed the oil pump so we checked and topped off. Filled the cooling system with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water. The moment of truth, JeepKing turned the key on/off 3 times to prime the fuel system then hit start.........it fired right up! Per the engine builders instructions we verified oil pressure then used zip ties to raise RPMs to 2000 for 20min. During this break in period oil pressure, coolant level, and temp were constantly monitored.
It has been running great for a week now. We need to address one small issue: when starting you need to press the gas a tiny bit or she will crank excessively before firing. Also has camshaft position cel code. Both of these are because the cps needs to be tuned with a computer at the dealer. When I replaced the OPDA a year ago I was able to tune it by ear. The stealership wants $100 to perform this 10min job. I will try it again myself and see how it works.
Seasonally recommended Valvoline 5w30 and Wix 51515 oil filter.
Also removed the serviceable gause, can type air filter you see in the pic. This was just clamped to the end of the intake tube. I replaced it with a factory airbox and Wix filter.
Recently JeepKing has noticed quite a bit of play in his steering. A dry steering test revealed the ujoints on the upper and lower intermediate shafts were shot. The local Jeep dealer wanted $490 for both shafts. With some shopping I was able to get them for $338 w/free shipping from Mopar Online Parts who is a vendor on this forum. I will cover the install plus a modification we made in my next post.
I was just gonna do a quick summary of the install however, since you're interested, I can do a write up. I was in a rush when we did the install as there was another Jeep project to be done that day. As a result I didn't get many pics. If you can wait till tomorrow I will take some and detail the replacement.
2. Remove the three clamp bolts that secure the steering shafts. They must be removed completely in order to separate the shafts. They're located:
Where the lower shaft meets the steering gear.
Because the head of this bolt is on the top side I turned the steering wheel a bit so I can get to it. just make sure you put steering wheel exactly where you began.
3. Separate the upper and lower shafts, the upper shaft will collapse into itself.
4. Separate the upper shaft at the steering column. Squeeze the plastic tabs on the firewall grommet while pushing inward. The upper shaft is removed through the cab of the Jeep.
5. Remove the bolts that secure the steering shaft bearing bracket to the frame.
Separate the lower shaft from the steering gear and remove the vehicle. This is the complete upper and lower assembly.
6. The new lower shaft will come with a new bearing assembly. Remove the two nuts that secure the bearing assembly to the bracket. Remove the bracket. There is no need to remove the bearing however I wanted to see what it look like underneath.
As you can see by the scoring on the shaft, the bearing was shot.
7. Reverse the steps for installation. Enjoy tight and responsive steering.
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