This is my new toy. I have wanted a 4x4 to build for some time. I have been torn between the Wranglers and the Chevy K5s. I found that the K5 cost to much to restore and too few. I found a steal on this ugly blue wrangler that has been sitting in a car lot for a couple of years. I happened to be the first guy by after he dropped the price.
Looks like a good Jeep for a project vehicle. Solid, and a great place to start.
You might want to reconsider the Webber carb and go with an MC2150. The Motorcraft carb is a direct bolt on, and performs better than the Webber. At least it did for me. Plus the MC carb is what was on your motor when it was in a CJ and called a 258CID instead of a 4.2L.
In order to do a carb swap, you either have to perform the nutter bypass, or change the distributor to aftermarket. Because if you take the computer's ability to self adjust the carb away, then the only other thing it can adjust is the timing. The nutter eliminates the computer from doing this. So does switching the distributor to something like an HEI.
'87 YJ, 4.2L built and bored, 8.5" of lift, 8.8 rear, AX15/NP 231, Tom Woods drive shafts, Flat fenders, 12,000LB winch, Custom bumpers, Rattle can paint job. Never completed...
Got the HEI distributor and the Weber carb installed. With lots of OT and a wife and daughter that want some of my time, it has been going slow. I have been chasing an electrical gremlin for over a week. I took the yellow wire from the old coil and ran it to a relay, so I could get more amps to the distributor. The trouble that I am having is that when I turn off the key, the yellow wire only drops to about half the volts as when the key is on and the engine is running. When the Jeep is not running, there is 0 volts at the yellow wire. I pulled the harness apart and traced the wire to a splice with a bunch of yellow wires bundled together. I them started to chase the multitude or wires in every direction, and found that one yellow wire that goes to the fuse block has over heated and melted the insulation most the distance between the splice and the fuse block.
So I'm pulling my steering wheel to replace my wiper control switch on my jeep. I get to the switch and I find that the bolt that 1) holds the switch in place, 2) acts as a hinge pin for the switch is already broken off below the surface of the switch.
The switch is stuck in place by the body of the screw. The whole assembly is in the steering column. No room to get a cutting wheel in there, and a lot of plastic and wires that would melt. What is left of the screw is recessed about 1/8 inch below the surface of the switch.
Did I mention that I am working in my driveway, and it is about 25° outside.