Im not sure about frame damage, but wouldnt be surprised if it was twisted a tad.
No visible rust except where the front of the passenger door opening was bent, you can see it in the pic, sprayed with some white to try to hide it.
It would need a front axle and front left spring, as well as shock, front clip, Radiator , and wheels just to get it driveable. if you wanted to keep it, the tub un-tweaked.....
I almost bought it anyways, you CAn get the half doors off without damaging them bu unbolting the door striker assembly and removing it with the door, but he wouldnt sell the half doors separately.
Its been a while, took some time to build a workshop beside my garage...
Also been working on a new flip, picked up a 97 K1500 Z71 for 1200, needed an intake, power wire to the fuel pump repaired, and a fuel leak IN the tank (main pressure line out of the fuel pump).
Im so tempted to use this a s a drivetrain swap for my YJ, but i need the money for the JBConversions SSYE, and 2 more springs and a driveshaft....
Just picked up 2 Waggy springs, got the 7 pack ones off the front of a late 70's one, so im still hunting for another set.
Should be back on track this week, still need to shave the 8.8, and clean the springs I do have (prolly replace the bushings too)...
Picked up a used Smitty bumper from a shop next door, $50. Couldnt pass it up (had the D-rings already).
Might have mentioned in an earlier post, I picked up 2 7leaf Waggy springs, cleaning them off this weekend, and im actually going to shave the 8.8 brackets off so I can start actually making some progress on my swap.
Pick&Pull is having a big sale thsi weekend, and hopefully ill find 2 more springs, If so Im ordering some Boomerang shackles, and within a few weeks Ill have it all fitted and ready to set my pinion angle.
Got it, and its time to clean it up, tomorrow.... im tired, it was in the sun, on blacktop, and I had NO HELP... at least it was up on Jackstands....
AS you all can see, Im always looking for a deal, seems im way off course, I am STILL working on the 8.8 swap, but when money is avaliable, and I see something I need for any step in my list of swaps, I grab it.
Awesome thread! I'm hoping to do a lot of the same things, so i'm subscribed. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, Earlier I had posted I was going to use the JBconversions SSYE, but decided against it so I can keep my stock Speedo, I have another tcase with an electric adapter on it I can install, since im probably going with a 5.2L
OK, just finished putting it together, enjoy the pics.
Installed the spring on the shift shaft, aligned the pump and pickup, Used some GMS sealer on the lower half, and slid them together.
I installed 2 bolts, started the rest, hit the first 2 with my 3/8 impact, made sure it spun freely, and tightened the rest.
Then I installed the speedo gear, in the closeup you can see the retainer clips, you need both, I almost forgot the bottom one....
Posting this so I dont lose it, reference, I will probably be going to install my AX15 before the engine swap, all Ill need is the adapter for the GM engine, or a Dakota V8 bellhousing for a 5.2L.
96-00 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any Jeep 2.5L L4. Because of it's GM 60 degree V6 inherited bolt pattern, also works with any Buick FWD V6 and supercharged V6, any Chevrolet 2.8/3.1/3.4 V6, any Cadillac 4.1/4.5/4.9 V8 and with a minor modification, any Olds Aurora DOHC V8 and Cadillac DOHC Northstar V8. Also bolts to any Isuzu 3.23.5 DOHC V6, Holden (Australia) 3800 V6 and the LS4 5.3L V8 from the Impala SS.
Something Im working on, and might sell in the future if I can polish it off.
Getting ready to order 2, 3 gallon tanks, trying to work out how to access my rear lock and handle with them installed, there will need to be a cutout where the mount lays over the lock/latch area, but I would either have to space the mount out from the tailgate 3". 3" is WAY TO MUCH, I only want to go 1" for the isolators, and it needs to have a top and bottom lip (the tanks are 4.5" deep, so a 4.5-5" lip is needed). www.rotopax.com/3-gallon-gasoline.html
The latch will be about behind and just below where the fuel can cap are. Reference the back tailgate on my Jeep below.
the 2 tanks will perfectly cover the entire tailgate, so Ill need to pop a stopper to protect the body by the right side tub (by the right tail light).