Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

87 YJ refresh

20K views 128 replies 23 participants last post by  Joshs68 
#1 ·
So...here I am with another Jeep YJ and I am pretty excited, here we go.

This needs to be pretty low buck and I am going to try to work on it in 3 or 4 hour shots so I can still have some kiddo time with my 3 and 6 year old.

I knew a friend of mine had a jeep sitting neglected in his garage for many years, the good thing is it was in Southern California. I called him up and he was excited to make it go away. So for $850 it was mine.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 ·
Added an MC2150 and an HEI distributor from CRT and it fired right up. I still have some tweaking to do but it's pretty close to there.

I had no fluid in the clutch mc, just black goo and no clutch pedal. 😞

So I headed to the U pull it and scored an AX15 / NP231 and all the hydraulics, that looked very new and functioned well for $160 plus core charges.

A Rugged ridge SYE and I'm ready to start pulling parts.
 

Attachments

#30 ·
Added an MC2150 and an HEI distributor from CRT and it fired right up. I still have some tweaking to do but it's pretty close to there. I had no fluid in the clutch mc, just black goo and no clutch pedal. dde1e So I headed to the U pull it and scored an AX15 / NP231 and all the hydraulics, that looked very new and functioned well for $160 plus core charges. A Rugged ridge SYE and I'm ready to start pulling parts.
Was installing the SYE a headache?
 
#8 ·
And I decided what better time to change the rear main seal. I pulled the pan, clean inside! I changed the seal and cleaned the nasty outside of the pan. Just nasty dirty! I plan to put the pan back on today, maybe the trans also. We'll see
 
#12 ·
I already had the radiator out because it had a leak in the lower hose connection.
Otherwise the radiator looked to be in good shape with no damage on the outside at all.

The lower hose connection had either come apart or cracked or whatever, it leaks. I figured I would try my hand at fixing it.

What's the worst that could happen, it already leaks.

I was able to wiggle the bung loose with pliers and remove it from the radiator while doing no added damage. I cleaned the area and sanded the tank and the bung then cleaned them again.

Heat, flux, heat, tin, solder. I ground my work to check for holes and it looked good so I again heated, flux, heat, add solder and used quite bit thinking better to get a large area. I'm not sure,never worked on a radiator before.

It looks like it actually worked! I will know more when it's on the Jeep, but I am pretty pleased so far. If it still leaks I am out nothing as I had the flux and solder and will have to buy a new radiator.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
I am happy with it so far. I sprayed it, and it came out of the gun very slow. Not a bad thing as it allowed me not to make a mess. I did not thin the product out any, maybe that would have helped?

I am very happy with the finish. It looks like a pro sprayed liner, I hope it lasts like one!

The prep was the fun part. It took two of us almost 4 hours. Cleaning, scuffing, cleaning, sanding, cleaning and more cleaning.
 
#22 ·
It is the IOS app.

Oh well today I scored an external slave bell housing, front cover, release bearing fork and the complete hydraulics for the external setup for $40 at the U pull it in Independence, MO!

Gotta love cheap parts.
Although I just swapped in the AX15, I gonna pull it out and swap to the external slave bell house. I would have don't it before but I couldn't find a junkyard with one.

Should only take a few hours as the driveshafts aren't in yet and I still have my sweet homemade trans jack.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Your gonna love it, couple things to be aware mounting the hydraulic slave to firewall if you have older tub you will have to cut or modify tub, as mounting holes won't line up, also the pedal assembly can have some variance from what you have to hydraulic. I have an 89 tub so I swapped pedal assembly and all. It's the best swap I have done to date after a day of wheeling and having the internal slave go out I said never again. Well worth the time it takes, great score and great price.
 
#24 ·
The MC from the 95 looks like it is pretty close to fitting.
The bolt spacing is the same on the MC only thing is the rod looks a little longer and the whole in the end is smaller. I can open up the whole some and make a shim / plate to work out the length difference. I'll know more when I go to put it together.
New clutch set and trans mount coming from Rock Auto and I will be on the road this week so it will have to wait for now.
 

Attachments

#27 ·
I was able to get a few hours last night, so I pulled the transmission, with t case attached. I pulled the old clutch, pressure plate and pilot bearing.

I used bread to push out the pilot. Works awesome and I actually cut the input shaft off the BA/10 for my alignment tool, with the old bushing on the shaft I tapped in the new pilot bearing.

Swapped over the external bell housing and front cover,went right on.

I spent what seemed like an eternity trying to get the new trans to slide home. Couldn't get it so I gave up and went in the house. I am going to go pick up a few long bolts today and make alignment pins.

The old input shaft slides in and out of the assembled clutch and pressure plate on the engine fine but the clutch disk splines need to be lined up just perfect.

Oh well it will go together one way or the other.

I have to go out of town next week also and won't be back until Friday so no wrenching this week either.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top