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Old 09-02-2012, 10:53 PM   #31
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I'm probably going to try a spring and if not just remove it in the trail. I'm definitely interested in seeing the picture of how yours is mounted. I put nine there because on the road I want it to have a little clearance of un obstructed view for range but may change it.

No wheels yet. My friend who is selling them to me is in Colorado and un waiting for his return.

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Old 09-02-2012, 11:11 PM   #32
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well i got a skinny mount with a two hole bracket and i mounted it where the stock holes are for the spare tire stop are. the bolt pattern matched perfect, but it kept it down enough that i dont grab everything above when in the trail..... i also went to a three footer too so i wouldnt be to tall.

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Old 09-03-2012, 08:07 PM   #33
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Finally got to do some real wheeling today and test out the lockers and 4wd a bit.









Does anyone else have a lockrite locker? I have one upfront and I was getting this metal clunking sound a bit when it was in 4wd. Not sure if the locker is just loud or if there is something else to check? Wheels didn't seem loose and neither did any of the front suspension components....
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:52 PM   #34
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didnt get that picture today i forgot sorry. and when my front hub starting going out i was getting a metal sound when turning in 4wheel.
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:41 PM   #35
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No worries. I did some research and it sounds like the lockrites tend to clunk around a bit. I'm going to check the wheel bearings and it looks like my shock mount grommets are worn out. so I'll replace those soon as well.
Getting a bit of a rumble sound when i brake from higher speeds. Thinking I may need to turn all four rotors.. Not sure yet.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:58 PM   #36
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Any cb gurus reading this? Powered in my cb, I've checked with a power tester that it is getting constant power but it turns on, runs through its start sequence and immediately shuts off. I can unplug it and reply it in and it does the exact same thing. Only lights up when it first gets power then shuts off. Any ideas?
Ground is good, power source wast append into the ignition but now I have it in a constant source and it does the same thing both ways.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:18 PM   #37
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So..... I figured out the cb radio issue. Have it all wired up now, just need to tune it once I'm on the road. Going to leave the anteanna where it is and just take it off if I new to on the trails. It's a pretty quick on and off.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:38 AM   #38
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Went ahead and took off the H2 recovery Team Decal. Just wasn't feeling it, replaced it with a Fox logo for now. Cleans it up a bit. I want a white and black one but this will do for now.




Also finished my CB. Went ahead and tossed my whip on there for street use and will put my 3' on there for trail or take them both off. Good thing about the whip is that its flexible along the trees if it does hit them.





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Old 09-11-2012, 12:45 AM   #39
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Alright, needs some help with something.

PO did a rear 8.8 swap and I know people tuck 35's on there rig with 4" lift but I am getting serious tire rub with my 33's when I know I shouldn't be.




Didn't bother me too much at first but I feel it way more frequently now and can't fully flex. Plus its starting to take chunks out of my tire.

Heres some side views:
Drivers:


Passenger:






I know some of the passenger is due to the temporary longer shackle on the drivers side but the axle looks like it should be moved up to tuck into the wheel well correct?

Any input or ideas on what can be done?
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:47 AM   #40
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Drivers again: (Didnt load I dont think)



I know some of the passenger is due to the temporary longer shackle on the drivers side but the axle looks like it should be moved up to tuck into the wheel well correct?

Any input or ideas on what can be done?
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:00 AM   #41
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My 33's used to rub with 4" lift until I put my TJ flares on. You do have to trim a little bit, but you gain a couple inches of clearance. Now i no longer rub. Also I was rubbing in the same spot as you, with the factory axle, so I doubt it's an axle location issue.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:31 AM   #42
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Understood but I was thinking that with my rear fenders completely removed I shouldn't be getting that much rub on the corner of the body should I?
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:33 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airspeed247
Understood but I was thinking that with my rear fenders completely removed I shouldn't be getting that much rub on the corner of the body should I?
Depends on your lift.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:14 AM   #44
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There is only about 1/8" of plastic on the flare from the point at which the tire is contacting to the body.
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:53 PM   #45
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I'm wanting to put on a shackle lift and 1.25" BL so I will wait to see if I need to trim anything after that. I'd just hate to put a saw to the rear rock crusher body protection until I for sure have to.
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:59 PM   #46
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Quote:
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I'm wanting to put on a shackle lift and 1.25" BL so I will wait to see if I need to trim anything after that. I'd just hate to put a saw to the rear rock crusher body protection until I for sure have to.
Agreed... and the springs could have sagged over time so your 4" lift is most likely 3.5 or ever closer to 3.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:41 PM   #47
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Figured I'd work on some more cosmetics while I wait for some funding.
Pinstripe removal today.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:43 PM   #48
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Looks alot cleaner in my opinion. I was going to remove the Sahara decals too but they are clear coated on with the paint. . Basic things go further then expected sometimes
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:47 PM   #49
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Also, or those interested. When doing a tuneup the valves that look like Pcv valves on the valve cover are called CCV valves. I don't know this but good knowledge. Here's a picture of the one replaced closest to the windshield. There's two one up front near the radiator as well but I was able to just put a Pcv elbow in that spot.

Once again, this is the one in the back closest to the windshield. Got it for just under $6 from the jeep dealership. Auto stores couldn't get it for me.
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:01 PM   #50
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My transmission has been slowly leaking but after my 30 drive to work last night I had more fluid dripping down off the skid plate down there then I'm comfortable with. Checking it out today after class. Anyone have any info on common spots the ax15 leaks from
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:54 PM   #51
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Picture of what I am dealing with. You can see the fluid dripping up front. When I drove it home 2 weeks ago it only had 1/2 quart of fluid in there and now it's starting to grind again. Figure it's getting low quick but there seems to be fluid all over so it's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from... ?

Also what's up with the long crossmember bolts? Anyone else have those?
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:26 PM   #52
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Quote:
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Picture of what I am dealing with. You can see the fluid dripping up front. When I drove it home 2 weeks ago it only had 1/2 quart of fluid in there and now it's starting to grind again. Figure it's getting low quick but there seems to be fluid all over so it's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from... ?

Also what's up with the long crossmember bolts? Anyone else have those?
I can't make out where your leak is at in the picture. As for the long crossmember bolts. They are a transfer case drop kit bolts, that's a spacer on the end of the bolt. It's suppose to be in between the frame and the crossmember. Allowing you to drop the angle of the transfer case.
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:27 PM   #53
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That was my guess. So would it be to my advantage to drop the case? It has an sye.
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:14 AM   #54
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That was my guess. So would it be to my advantage to drop the case? It has an sye.
No. The sye was probably the reason the PO raised the cross member back up to the frame. Before the sye you needed it for proper driveshaft angle.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:01 PM   #55
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I'm getting a vibration while at higher speeds (55 +) and figured it may help by dropping it back down but I think it's my unevenly worn mud terrains.

I'll take the crossmember off tomorrow an try and get a better picture of the leaking area.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:57 PM   #56
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I'm highly considering dropping my transmission and trying to "rebuild" what I'm goping to call the two gaskets in the middle of the transmission housing. I'm pretty sure its leaking from there and in high amounts. Has anyone rebuilt their transmission before?
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:58 PM   #57
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You can see from above where it looks like the two larger side housings meet in the middle with the smaller one in between the two. Those two connection points is where I think it's leaking from.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:59 PM   #58
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I'm thinking the "gaskets" are just the red silicone that you use to build your own gaskets. Is this correct or is there an actual gasket set? I'm going to look into the leak further today but this is most likely my plan of action.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:03 PM   #59
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Definitely had some sludge and mud buildup on the skid plate
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:03 PM   #60
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Above pictures are from the leak area. Now to just pinpoint it..

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