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Old 06-21-2012, 11:49 AM   #361
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Cool, good to hear. Yea, let me know, I have no problem sending you this one if you need it

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Old 06-21-2012, 11:55 AM   #362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjJEEPyj
Im running to the store right now to check there adaptors right now. If they don't have one i will let you know. I was looking at New manifolds last night because im pretty sure my gaskets are bad sense I have a rough idle
If you do get an aftermarket manifold, I highly recommend an Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM standard or Air Gap manifold for your Jeep. Makes for good low torque from idle to about 5,000 RPM, especially on a stock motor like yours. I've installed quite a few of them on various rigs myself.

Yea, on the rough idle, if you are positive you do not have any vacuum leaks, you have your carb tuned to your engine, & no distributor/ignition issues; the new intake should help a lot. If you do the intake swap, make sure you clean the intake bolts very well & use plenty of high grade anti-seize. When you go to tighten the bolts, with having an aluminum manifold, I highly recommend consulting a Chilton's manual or equivalent to make sure you torque them to specification & in the correct order

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Old 06-21-2012, 12:11 PM   #363
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Nice jeep.... I'd like to see how that dash turned out.... And how difficult it is to accomplish
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:57 PM   #364
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Found one that fit perfect! And the idle is pretty good now. Does the new manifold have noticeable affects? And weight benefits over the stock ones? Could always use more low end! I have to say... the holly gets it when i stomp the throttle even has enough power to break 35x12.5 loose on dry payment. Now I just have to worry about axle wrap! OK so.. I thought the new carb would fix this but... sometimes when i am accelerating from a stop once the transmission shifts to 3 the engine like sputters and has trouble running and I have to let off the gas and feather it for a SEC before it has power again. Any ideas? And the dash.. took like two days. I wouldn't do it again it was a pain in the a!
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:34 PM   #365
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Hmmm..... I can think of a few things that would be causing that, but would have to see it & hear it when it does that to really be able to nail it down. Any chance you can get it on a video?

Right now I'm thinking carb adjustment, &/or a small ignition/distributor glitch, &/or transmission kickdown cable out of adjustment, &/or a vacuum issue that still may be lurking somewhere. Could be a few other things too, but doubtful on those.

As far as the aftermarket manifold, I want to say it weighs somewhere around 10 to 15 lbs. less than stock, don't quote me on that though. You can really tell the difference when you hold a stock one in one hand & an aluminum one in the other. You should notice a considerable difference in torque when wheeling & you have to romp on it to get over certain things "giving it a bump" & on steep inclines. It helps over all, but it's not like putting in a new motor. You probably won't notice an INSTANT massive horsepower gain right off the bat, but it sure helps at the times when it counts.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:23 PM   #366
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I could use that extra power right now! Stuck in a creek behind my shed in a valley and just snapped my front left shaft!
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:43 PM   #367
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Oh F! There goes my left front knuckle! Tire is sitting sideways stuck in a creek. Like I wasn't stuck enough already!? Ill post picks when I get home
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:48 PM   #368
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Time for a Ford 44 with Reid knuckles
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:55 PM   #369
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This. This is beautiful. But seriously, what a turn around! And I love the white/red/black color scheme! I know I'm kinda late to this thread, but better late than never! Good stuff!
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:43 PM   #370
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Check back in a few hours. Ill have some recovery pics up. Do I have to cut down the Ford d44?
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:02 PM   #371
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Some pics of trailing down in the creek

























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Old 06-21-2012, 10:09 PM   #372
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and then... this happend.. at first just the inner axle yoke broke and it was banging around in there and then all the sudden... POP! crackle crunch rip bend lol








the supply wagon lol my jeep was stuck way down in the woods and i was tired of hauling tools back and forth


slowly twisted my front end out of the water. but then my fuel pump stoped sucking so.. i called it a night

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Old 06-21-2012, 10:12 PM   #373
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oh and i forgot to say what all I can see is screwed.. so far what i can see is.. The knuckle is still ok. The ball joints snapped right off and the knuckle just fell off and then the tie rod bent and the Heim joint snapped off. then my new brake line broke to. Oh yea.. the worst part tho is.. there is no way to get a recovery vehicle there so i'll at least be doing the ball joints down there
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:12 PM   #374
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Did you break the top part of the C?

to get back to near Jeep width yes you'd have to cut the axle down and its 5 on 5.5
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:14 PM   #375
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Nevermind, just saw the up close pic
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:17 PM   #376
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Pretty brutal, but somewhat awesome at the same time, never seen anyone rip the ball joints apart lol
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:20 PM   #377
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lol thats what i was thinking. im actually surprised that the ball joints get Fed before the C was broken. How wide is the Ford d44? And what trucks do they come in? Whats in the rear of those trucks?
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:15 PM   #378
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The 1/2 ton variant is very specific if you want them to come with all the disc brake stuff.. You need it out of a 76-77 bronco, f100, or f150, anything after that the radius arm wedges are cast as part of the axle tubes and can't be shortened. Earlier variants came with drum brakes, so you can get the axle and if you plan on Reid knuckles you can get the disc brake parts elsewhere.. The rear axle is narrower and its a 9". Should be 64 1/2" wms to wms, doesn't stick out too far.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:17 PM   #379
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This is stock width 9", with 12.50 wide tires on 3" BS wheels

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Old 06-21-2012, 11:25 PM   #380
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Just checked, the front is 66" wms to wms stock, so it would stick out 3/4" more on each side in the front
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:27 PM   #381
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so your front is a Ford d44? and it's uncut? can i get a pic? what was yours out again?
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:29 PM   #382
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No mine is cut, but it actually came out of a 74, just had disc brakes added.. Then I threw Reid racing knuckles on it
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:32 PM   #383
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Also the reason I suggest the Ford 44, is they are high pinion, correct side drop, and the best 44s you can get.. The half ton rated are 2 1/2" OD tube with 1/2" wall thickness, and unlike Wrangler 44s which are only 1/4" thick, they have actual locking hubs
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:35 PM   #384
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and is the 9" stronger then the 8.8? did anything come with a D60?
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:36 PM   #385
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And the 9" that goes with it is tough as nails.. You can get the true hi 9 center section.. The R&P is stronger than a d60.. Lemme get you a few links so you can do a bit of research too
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:37 PM   #386
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Yeah the 9" is stronger than an 8.8
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:41 PM   #387
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ok cool. Im always open for some research. bolt pattern 5x5.5?
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:41 PM   #388
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Mr. N of pirate 4x4's Bible on d44s, remember we're talking the 1/2 ton 44

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/index.htm

And truehi9s website, make sure to read through all the different pages linked at the top

http://www.truehi9.com/
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:07 AM   #389
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thoes Hi9's look amazing. But a bit out of my price range is that what your running?
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:09 AM   #390
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Yeah, 4.57:1, Detroit, Currie 35 spline shafts

The writeups on that apply somewhat to low pinion 9" especially where they talk about the ring and pinion teeth size, and the 3rd bearing on the pinion head

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