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Old 02-26-2012, 12:33 PM   #31
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Gas Pedal

I mounted the braket almost vertical, which offsets the pedal just a little. HOWEVER, when you press down on the pedal, it swivels to the right. If you don't mount it correctly, the pedal could hit the floor before it hits full throtle.
Here are a couple more pics. The pedal looks great, almost factory...
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:42 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ WRANGLER View Post
I feel your pain, I went thought this a few yrs back and LOVE my Jeep
I took the slow and torturous way like you but I had two babies at home that always won out when it came to my money and time. My boys are getting older now and love to help me on the "big jeep".


Hey Harry, when you did your conversion, did you have to use the Chevy gas pedal? Its a drive by wire set up on the new motors.

I cant figure out how to mount the GM gas pedal? Anybody know?[/QUOTE]

Nope, i went old school and used a carburetor, In a few yrs I'll go injection but can't swing it now. Your pedel setup looks like its going to work great.

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Old 02-28-2012, 11:49 PM   #33
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Thanks Harry, so far so good...

I am STILL waiting for my transmission to get back from the shop. Frustrating, its a week overdue.

I am going to start doing other things. I have to figure out the fuel lines. I know I can use the stock fuel pump, but the Vortec doesn't use a return line like the YJ does. I think I have seen a in-line regulator that had the return line built into it .I cant seem to find it in the forum now.

ANYBODY KNOW?
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:47 AM   #34
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I found the solution at Novak! They have an install guide for YJ conversions and know their stuff. Here is the link to the guide, it has been very useful to me.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge..._engine_mounts
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:21 PM   #35
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Dropped the fuel tank to change the pump out. Nothing wrong with the old one, just wanted a fresh one in for the new motor. What a PIA!!! Bolts were rusted together and rounded off.
Its a good time to convert the tank to a 20 gallon. you can pull the overflow hose out of the tank and it will go from 15 gallons to 20! There is a write up here on how to do it without removing the tank. I will post a link when I find it. Pics to follow!
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:21 PM   #36
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some may call it overbuilt. my right foot calls it future scrap.
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:19 AM   #37
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Thanks Racer! That is a great link and the extra fuel can make a big difference!

Worked a little tonight on the beast. The new fuel pump I bought was a little different than the original. Chinese piece of $h!t! After modifying and redrilling the bracket, it fit in the hole. I still have to put the tank back in to place.
I was so frustrated, I didn't take any pics.
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:06 AM   #38
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Wow awesome build! Can't wait till I have 5k saved up for my Engine swap

Was it a pain to take off the front fenders and grill? I only ask because I have a dent on my passenger side fender (previous owner *whistle* ) that could use replacing and I wouldn't mind opening up the from to get in to the frame to do some rust touch up

Thanks and keep those posts coming!
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:35 PM   #39
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Was it a pain to take off the front fenders and grill?

No, it is pretty easy, about a dozen bolts to take out. Its more of a pain getting all the stuff OFF the fenders. You can get one off in less than an hour. The front grill is attached to the fenders, so it is easily removed also.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:45 PM   #40
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4L60 to NP231 adapter

I got my transmission back for the shop. Looks great. They took it apart and intalled the shorter output shaft. It was nice to hear everything inside side looked great and only a filter change was done.
I put the adapter on myself. its from Novak and is a once piece design. Its a very nice piece of heavy alluminum. Everything bolted up great. I had to install the VSS sensor into the adapter. It is critical to connect to the GM wiring harness. It tells the ECM how fast you are going. I even test fit the NP231 case to it. Slides in perfect!
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:54 PM   #41
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Installing V8

Since the transmission was back and installed, I could drop in the motor! FINALLY!

It took a little wiggle, but fit in nicely.

Also put on new headers, SO NICE!!! Put the front grill on to see how it fit. Pretty close, but no problems. I had moved the motor mounts forward 1/2" and have better firewall clearance now.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:55 AM   #42
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Fuel lines and regulator

I got around to running new fuel lines this weekend. I decided not to reuse the original steel lines. I had to install an inline regulator and return line. The Jeep feul pump puts out like 100 psi and you need 65 for the Chevy motor. There is also a return line to deal with from the original Jeep set up.

I have seen posting about using a Corvette regulator that has a return line built into it. That is basically the set up I am using. I ran a filter before the regulator also. I mounted the filter in the original spot on the Jeep, above the mini skid plate. I mounted the regulator under the tub, above the frame rail. Seems like a pretty secure spot and I can access it if needed.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:07 AM   #43
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Power steering lines

I managed to get the stock Jeep power steering lines to work.

The pressure line has to kind of loop around and attach from the back. It screwed right into the Chevy inlet. It actually works out great and the sensor plug winds up being in a nice spot.

The return line took a little coaxing, I had to bend the hard line a bit. Only to get the line to reach far enough. I had orignally cut this line off when removing the Jeep motor. Try not to cut too much off that hose...

I also mounted the throttle relay box. As part of the new drive by wire set up, there is a control box the gas pedal plugs into. I decided to mount it on the driver side firewall. Seems like a good spot to me.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:50 PM   #44
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I have been to the parts store twice tonight looking for radiator hoses that fit. No luck so far.
Searching the forums came up with some pics, but no numbers...

Anbody know?
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:50 AM   #45
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Driveline Mock Up

I mounted my NP231 up to the transmission today. I was planning on getting measurements for my new drivelines. To my surprise, it looks like the stock shafts afer going to work for now! I lost about a 1/4" total in length from the stock motor to the V8. The one peice t/c adapter made a big difference in total length. So driveline complete! Thats great news, and I am looking forward to checking that off my list...for now.

I will have to drill new holes in the bottom of my skid plate for the transmission mount. Thats not a big deal. I will be setting the angle at 7' for the outputshaft. It should make for a smooth ride.

I plan on getting a new NP231 with a HD and SYE kit in it. I also have a set of Waggy Dana 44's sitting in the garage that need to be geared and locked. I am thinking about going E-Lockers front and back. Lots of people like the ARB, but I'm not convinced. Anybody have any feedback or experiance with either brand?

For now, I plan on going VERY easy on the Dana 30/35 and old t/c. It won't be easy, but I want to get this thing on the road. The lighter drive train will have to do for now. Its going to 1000 degrees in Phx soon, and I'm running out of time!

I should be getting my wiring harness and ECM back from Novak this week. I'm a bit nervouse about all those wires, but they assure me even a wrench head like me can figure it out. I will keep you posted.

My search for the perfect radiator hose continues...

This thing could fire up in the next week!!!
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:12 AM   #46
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Valves...

I also had to replace a valve cover gasket. When they pulled the motor, the strap pulled against the cover and popped the old one loose. IDIOTS...

Anyway, I got a good look inside. Nice to know the top end is clean and shiney on the inside too!!!
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:51 PM   #47
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I am so close, yet so far away from completion. Frustration is starting to build...

STILL waiting for my wiring harness to come back from Novak. It's been 3 weeks now and still no word. When I emailed to ask, I got a pretty rude reply. I have spent about $3000 with Novak so far, you would think they would say please and thank you!

I should have taken the ECM and harness to my local guy. He would have it done by now and would appreciate my hard earned money!
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:38 AM   #48
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U-joint replacement

I am STILL waiting for my harness to come back. They said it would take 2 weeks, but it will end up being 4...

I spent my Saturday beating out old u-joints and replcaing them all. If figured with the increased power, it wouldn't hurt to change them out. I used the old hammer and socket set up. What a PIA!

The drivelines are completely installed now. The transmission mount lined up nicely with an existing hole in the skid plate. I got lucky again!

I just have the shifters and harness to do now. I could be driving it soon!
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:26 AM   #49
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Water temp sender

My list is getting smaller and smaller...

I put in the oil pressure and water temp sensors today. The Jeep gages need their own additonal ports besides the stock Chevy ones.

On the passenger side head, above the last spark plug is a tapped location to get your water temp. My head was already tapped and threaded with a plug in it. After removing it, I screwed in the stock CHEVY water temp sender. I tested on the Jeep plug from my stock motor, and they fit together nicely. I don't think there is any reason it wont work with the Jeep gage? I had read on here people using the Jeep sender and a thread adapter. I just figured the Chevy one would work fine. Plug and play! I hope...
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:35 AM   #50
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Oil pressure sender

I also put in the oil pressure sender. Again, needed for the Jeep gage.

On the drivers side of the motor, above the oil filter, ther is a fitting screwed into the block. You can unscrew this piece and use it to mount the sender.

The fitting was already 90% drilled out. I took the same size drill bit and finished drilling it all the way through. I then took a tap and threaded it. The correct thread size is 1/8 -27.

Everything fit together nicely!
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:30 AM   #51
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I will getting my ECM and harness back on Wednesday!!! Getting close!
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:49 AM   #52
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Wriring harness!!!

I got my wiring harness today from Novak! It looks great. Everything has been redone and seemes to be clearly labeled. I haven't pulled it out of the box yet. I will have to work on it Saturday.

I also ordered a TC shift kit from Novak. I mounted up the bracket and mechanism. They give you a cool little bendy to mock up the lever. I will have to heat up the metal bar and make some adjustments. Looks like it will work fine.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:17 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ WRANGLER View Post
I got my transmission back for the shop. Looks great. They took it apart and intalled the shorter output shaft. It was nice to hear everything inside side looked great and only a filter change was done.
I put the adapter on myself. its from Novak and is a once piece design. Its a very nice piece of heavy alluminum. Everything bolted up great. I had to install the VSS sensor into the adapter. It is critical to connect to the GM wiring harness. It tells the ECM how fast you are going. I even test fit the NP231 case to it. Slides in perfect!
What is the benefit to mounting the VSS in the transmission vs the Tcase output shaft like most SYE setups have it?
My example is the JBconversions SSYE with GM sensor:

JB Conversions, Inc.



I was planning on using the JB unit here with their 700/4L60e to NP231 adapter, but if your alternative is cheaper, I can go that direction, I like the JB 700/4L60 to 231 adaptor because its SHORT, only .75" so longer driveshaft...

http://www.jbconversions.com/products/adapters/1002.php

Ends up like this (without the cutaway):

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Old 04-08-2012, 11:58 AM   #54
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[QUOTE=2xs;2225468]What is the benefit to mounting the VSS in the transmission vs the Tcase output shaft like most SYE setups have it?
My example is the JBconversions SSYE with GM sensor:QUOTE]


Its my understanding that the GM computer needs the speed BEFORE it gets to the transfer case. Once it goes through the TC, the gears change the ratio and screw it up? The one coming off the TC is for the Jeep computer and speedo, I think.

I used the Novak adapter, it is one piece and pretty short. I was able to re-use my stock drive shafts. It changed my overall length by +1". I also used the Novak engine mounts, which have adjustments. I moved my motor forward 1/2" giving more room towards the rear.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:12 PM   #55
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Power junction box

One of the things you have to do is re-route the positive and negative battery cables. GM has a junction box that connects the alternator and positive terminal. Its all part of their "power management"...

Since the GM battery is on the drivers side front, you have to re-arrange all that stuff. I took the junction box off the stock location , cut and drilled the bracket, and mounted to the firewall. I used the battery tray bolts to mount the bracket. You will have to also re-run the alternator cable around the firewall to the battery.

I bought a new battery with dual terminals also. The extra connections will come in handy for hooking up all the different components.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:18 PM   #56
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Shifters

I started doing the shifters. I will be going with a floor shifter for the transmission, the column does not have enough slots for the new set up.

I replaced the TC shifter with one from Novak. Easy set up and sems to work fine.

I chose the Lokar cable shifter for the 4L60.

I had to fabricate a new floor panel. I needed to have a nice flat top to mount the Lokar shifter on. I also reduced the cutout for the TC shifter. Hopefully I will be able to get two shifter boots on. I added an extra inch to one side of the flange. I will have to shave a little off the inside of the TC shifter and thought the extra flange will help with stability.

More pics to follow as I finsih it up today.
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:06 PM   #57
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the JB unit I posted is for a GM sensor and tone ring.

in the GM setup, with the OE GM tcase, the computer knows when its in 4low and looks for a modded VSS signal. with an NP231 from a Jeep, it can throw a code for gear ratio, but only when its in 4low, I dont think this effects driveability, but CAN put the trans in limp home mode for the 4L60e, this CAN be programmed out.

I see why you are doing it this way now, eliminate the issue altogether.
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http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280873
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:23 PM   #58
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Holding off on installing the 4L60 shifter for now. I need to see what my shifter boot options are before placing it. The YJ stock double boot would be awesome, not sure it will work though...
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:28 PM   #59
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Wiring harness today...
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:29 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2xs View Post
the JB unit I posted is for a GM sensor and tone ring.

in the GM setup, with the OE GM tcase, the computer knows when its in 4low and looks for a modded VSS signal. with an NP231 from a Jeep, it can throw a code for gear ratio, but only when its in 4low, I dont think this effects driveability, but CAN put the trans in limp home mode for the 4L60e, this CAN be programmed out.

I see why you are doing it this way now, eliminate the issue altogether.

I did some research and it seems like this is the best fix. AA makes a simillar set up, but it's 2 piece and a little longer.

I will let you know how it works out. Putting in the wiring harness and ECM today. I hope to fire it up by next weekend!

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