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Old 04-25-2012, 11:11 PM   #121
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see i dont know what to do for heat/noise insulation because i just monstalinered the whole inside and outside, maybe just some heat shielding underneath the cab? cause i'd still like to be able to rinse the inside out,

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Old 04-26-2012, 02:26 PM   #122
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reflective insulator

Look for some reflective insulating blanket that can be fastened under the tub between it and the heat source. Also, try and get a path for some air flow through between the insulator and the source.

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Old 04-27-2012, 01:39 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
Great job on swap,I just changed mine from a 2.5 to the 4.0 and I fell in love all over again.I will one day put a SBC in mine when its not a DD.or it blows up whatever comes first.mine will get up and go I coundnt amaigine what it would do with that 5.3 in there.nice job
Thanks Kdub!

I got the insulation today. Its an aluminum covered foam cell. Seems kinda thin, but its supposed to block 98% of the heat. I will try to put some down this weekend. If it works, I will post a link.

It rained in Phx today so it ws nice and cool. I got to drive the Jeep! I found a shop that will plumb my AC and get it cooling for around $500. I hope to get it done next week.
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:43 PM   #124
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what kind of headers are u running? I tried 3/4's they wouldnt clear the clutch arm. after soome trial and error I ended up running center drop manifolds off of a 70s model suburban to accomodate the guy that does my exhaust.
The headers are made by Sanderson. They are block hugger, center dump, and ceramic coated. VERY nice headers! They tuck in a little close to the starter, so I will wrap some insulation around it.

Speaking of insulation, I just covered the front floor boards with some today. I idled the Jeep up to temperature, the insulation seems to be making a difference. I'm going to drive the Jeep a little today, should be a good test. If it works, I will glue it down to the floor.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:34 PM   #125
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carefull wrapping the starter

Just wrapping the starter will end up causing it to get hotter. You need to isolate the heat from the starter, but yet let air flow get over the starter to carry the heat away.

The insulation wrapped around the starter will slow it down from getting hot, but will allow it to get hotter, retain that heat, and stay hot longer.

A shield between the starter and the headers/exhaust would work best. A reflective coating/color would be best.
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:01 AM   #126
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Good point...

I think I will wrap the headers instead. I have some heat wrap.
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:01 PM   #127
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i thought about insulating my floor, but i play in puddles so much that it would end up soaked and moldy in no time. j/s
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Old 05-01-2012, 03:59 PM   #128
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i thought about insulating my floor, but i play in puddles so much that it would end up soaked and moldy in no time. j/s
Actually, it is pretty much water proof. It is a cellular faom with aluminum wrapping.

I put some in last weekend. I only covered the front half of the Jeeps floor boards. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! The cab and floors are at least 20 degrees cooler. I also sealed up some holes letting hot air in. I can't believe how much of a difference this stuff made. I plan on lining the roof of my hardtop with it too.

Since it worked so well, I will post a link. The stuff is pretty cheap and works great!

EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:26 PM   #129
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i have my floor plugs out on my jeep right now and the 4.2 is making enough heat to bug me on a decently warm day, i can't imagine how hot the 5.3 gets, but i stilll dont want anything inside on the floor, i just washed alot of mud out of the inside, its nice to be able to do that
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:05 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by jasonh28 View Post
i have my floor plugs out on my jeep right now and the 4.2 is making enough heat to bug me on a decently warm day, i can't imagine how hot the 5.3 gets, but i stilll dont want anything inside on the floor, i just washed alot of mud out of the inside, its nice to be able to do that
Not much mud here in Phx. Lots of dust, but not mud! hahaha

Just ordered new gauges for the Jeep, the POS stock ones don't work. Never have, never will. I cleaned them but they still suck.

I bought the new Phantom II by Auto Meter. Awesome gauges, white face that turns black at night. They wont fit in the stock Jeep dash panel, the dashboard frame gets in the way. I had to order a custom one from Quadratech. It looks nice and angles the gauges towards the driver seat. I will also have room to mount the rocker switches for the ARB lockers.
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:44 AM   #131
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sounds great man! awesome job. I love a first fire-up!
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:12 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ WRANGLER

Not much mud here in Phx. Lots of dust, but not mud! hahaha

Just ordered new gauges for the Jeep, the POS stock ones don't work. Never have, never will. I cleaned them but they still suck.

I bought the new Phantom II by Auto Meter. Awesome gauges, white face that turns black at night. They wont fit in the stock Jeep dash panel, the dashboard frame gets in the way. I had to order a custom one from Quadratech. It looks nice and angles the gauges towards the driver seat. I will also have room to mount the rocker switches for the ARB lockers.
Mudding is the only thing anyone does for "offroading" here in nebraska lol mostly guys who have hacked their exhaust off and put huge whips on there trucks.

Lets see this gauges! Ill pry throw my stock ones out as well just to freshen the dash up
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:16 PM   #133
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Thanks Seven. I was SO happy to hear it fire up! It sounds really nice with the exhaust hooked up now. I will try to post another video.


I wont have the gauges until Monday. Wish I had them to install this weekend.

Getting the AC hooked up next week. I'm taking it to a shop to have custom hoses made up. It is SO hot in Phx already. I don't usually drive the Jeep when it heats up, but I just can't resist it. So fun to drive now!
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:48 AM   #134
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Shake down

I went out on a 40+ mile trail today. Nothing too hard, but enough to know everything is tight and working well. Everything except my 4x4! I haven't hooked up any vacuum to the D30 front. I'm not sure how I am going to run that set up? I was going to put a sleeve in and make it a permanent solid axle, but the first bolt I tried to loosen, the head broke off. I'm afraid to wrench on any more. I guess its good motivation to get my D44's built and under the Jeep.

The Jeep did great in 2 wheel drive! There were a few tough spots, but I got through after a couple of tries. Its tough not to spin the wheels, I worry about breaking the rear c-clip...

It was about a 60 mile drive home. This thing runs so great on the hwy! Smooth and passing people at 70mph. Amazing!

I am getting AC this week! Yeah!!! I will have my gauges and new dash tomorrow also. Post some pics soon!
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:56 AM   #135
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Im shooting for end of summer for this swap I agree Novaks info was priceless this build is just what I needed to see though great job!
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:07 AM   #136
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:38 PM   #137
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I cant get the original cover off. I already broke one head off a bolt. I don't want to try to turn the rest.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:58 PM   #138
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Gauges!!!

I got my new dash panel and gauges this week! I got the dash from Quadratec and the gauges are the new Phantom II by Auto meter. They are really nice! When you turn the lights on at night, the face turns from white to black, and the numbers turn white.

Anyway, to the technical stuff. Since the new dash panel offsets the gauges towards the driver, the end gauge hits the metal plate behind the dash. I had to cut about an inch into the dash and bend that piece out of the way. Also, the new gauge panel has room for five gauges, so I added a Trans Temp.

I found a diagram for the Jeeps wiring cluster. This made connecting the lights to the dimmer switch easy. I "daisy chained" the gauge wiring.

I also got the AC going today! I had gotten a quote for $750 from a shop. I figured out I only needed two new hoses and had a shop make them for me. I had the system charged today. total cost was $230. Not bad. Blows COLD air!!!

I LOVE THIS JEEP!!!!!
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:58 AM   #139
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Very nice,what was total cost of gauges?
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:56 PM   #140
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Very nice,what was total cost of gauges?
I bought them through Summit and they ran $375 including shipping. The dash panel came from quadratech and was $65. It looks I will have to change out my temp and pressure senders. The gauges are not reading correctly with the "stock" sensors? I also get the wrong fuel gauge. I read on this forum the fuel sender was from 0-90 ohms. Thats not right, my gauge shows being full when its empty. I will have to put a tester on the line and see what the ohm range is.

We drove up to Sedona yesterday. Jeep ran great with the AC. Temp never got over 200 degrees and it was over 100 outside. It actually runs cooler with the AC on because the electric fan is on all the time. I am more than impressed with Novak's radiator!

The Jeep is running PERFECT! I keep waiting for something to fall off or fail, but so far everything is working great!
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:09 AM   #141
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get by CAD

To get by, just run two vacuum lines up from the vacuum motor to a point on the engine where accessible vacuum is located. When you want 2wd you plug one line into the vacuum. if you want 4wd, you unplug and plug the other one in. A little crude but it works! You will have the 4wd light also, if all else is OK.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:31 AM   #142
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To get by, just run two vacuum lines up from the vacuum motor to a point on the engine where accessible vacuum is located. When you want 2wd you plug one line into the vacuum. if you want 4wd, you unplug and plug the other one in. A little crude but it works! You will have the 4wd light also, if all else is OK.
Thats exactly what I did! Worked fine all day long. I'm going to hook up an electic solenoid valve and switch for the next trip.

As soon as I get some $$$$ I will get the Dana 44's built with ARB lockers.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:02 AM   #143
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Hmm...air conditioning would be nice! What's entailed in the install? Condenser, lines, and all??? Did the jeep already have A/C?
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:03 PM   #144
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Hmm...air conditioning would be nice! What's entailed in the install? Condenser, lines, and all??? Did the jeep already have A/C?
Yes, the Jeep already had "factory" air in it. I live in AZ, its a must have! It wasn't easy finding a Jeep with it already installed. Its the ONLY reason I put up with the 4 banger originally. I only had to have 2 hoses made up to connect the Jeep system to the GM compressor. It works SO much better with the 5.3L power behind it.

There are aftermarket kits you can buy. They look just like the "factory" air set I have. Jeep air conditioning components and complete A/C kits for all Jeeps
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:45 AM   #145
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They made two hoses and it cost you $700???
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:39 PM   #146
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They made two hoses and it cost you $700???

No, thats what a local shop quoted me to do the job. I'm not sure what hoses they planned on making or why the price was so high?

I went to a local hose shop and had 2 hoses made to adapt to the Chevy compressor. It cost me $100 for the 2 hoses and another $125 to have it charged with freon.

I saved myself $500!
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:30 AM   #147
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This thred Has shown me a few things that I have forgotten In my Swap! I didnt think about the 4X4 not working?? I figured it would still be fine i guess ??? That possi lock doesnt look like you have to take the Diff cover off
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:24 AM   #148
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This thred Has shown me a few things that I have forgotten In my Swap! I didnt think about the 4X4 not working?? I figured it would still be fine i guess ??? That possi lock doesnt look like you have to take the Diff cover off
Your project is looking great!

You don't take the Diff cover off, but the cover plate at the vacuum actuator has to come off if you put on cable driven set up.

It worked fine for me running a hose directly from the axle to a vacuum off the intake. I unplugged it and capped the vacuum when I was done wheeling for the day.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:50 AM   #149
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vacuum CAD

If you don't run the second line to hold the CAD in disconnected mode, the fork can drift and run against the other axle. Best to run the secondl ine and hold the fork in the disconnect position. There isn't any spring return system to hold it disconnected.

You can just move it on the CAD vacuum motor from the one connection to the other. However, if you leave one open it is subject to dust, insects, etc.
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:01 PM   #150
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Finally found somebody in the same boat has me! I'm in the middle of doing a 02 5.3 vortec swap in my 95 yj. I thought it was going to be an awesome build but the more I research it the more discouraged I get.. So far I gutted the yj out..easy part. The 5.3 is in the shop getting rebuilt figured it could use new seals and what not before i dump it in. I went through advance adapters for all my parts. I ordered...
-motor mounts/trans mount
-t/c adapter to 4l60e
-fixed yoke kit for the t/c
-lokar shifter kit
My list is missing a lot I know, will you post your list so i have some kind of reference? Also im from AZ my self where is the guy that was going to wire your harness located?

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