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Old 04-26-2013, 11:15 PM   #1
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clutch proublem

I replaced my clutch an slave an fly wheel an the master but my pedal is real short an it is all the way at the bottom I really don't understand why it's like that an when it get up to running temp its hard to go in reverse .... Grinding.... An first get hard to... Any ideas ?

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Old 04-26-2013, 11:55 PM   #2
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did you bleed the system?

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Old 04-27-2013, 09:28 AM   #3
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I did like 20 times 88 yj 4.2 5 speed
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:19 AM   #4
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Holy crap I'm having the exact same issue right now with mine!!!! Replaced everything you did and I lose clutch presser and if bleed it like 20 times as well! 87 4.2
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:41 PM   #5
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Same here! Replaced my clutch and when it warms up it grinds like crazy going into reverse and hard to get it in 1st.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:11 PM   #6
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I'm at the point now that before I come to a complete stop I down shift in to first it just how it is ..... It sux but I have did all I know to do
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:58 PM   #7
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Okay first off, It will always grind going into reverse even with a new clutch because there is no Synchro for the reverse gear. Get in the habit of touching first just before you go into reverse each time and you will never grind.
As far as the clutch pedal, there should be only 1" of free play at the top. If your pedal has more than 1", then you have air in your lines. If you bled the system properly, then you have an air leak somewhere.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:32 PM   #8
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Ok u have my attention it's not losing any fluid .... So where should I start ?
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:07 PM   #9
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Get some clear tubing (Aquarium airline tubing works perfect) and an old jar. Hook the tubing to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in the jar in some clutch fluid. Open the bleeder screw and have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor. Close the bleeder screw then release the pedal. Top off fluid in the reservoir then repeat several more times.
If at any time you see an air bubble come out through the tube then either you didn't get the air out the first time or you've got an air leak.
Possible locations of an air leak is the bleeder screw or line fittings, or bad O-rings on the Slave Cylinder. If the problem is the latter, you may not notice fluid loss for quite some time as it will take awhile for it to drip out of the front of the bell housing (if it's internal).
If you do not see an air bubble come out through the tube then you have a defective or wrong Master Cylinder.
Finally, this may seem like a no brainer, but make sure your clutch pedal return spring hasn't become disconnected.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrangler Haven View Post
Get some clear tubing (Aquarium airline tubing works perfect) and an old jar. Hook the tubing to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in the jar in some clutch fluid. Open the bleeder screw and have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor. Close the bleeder screw then release the pedal. Top off fluid in the reservoir then repeat several more times.
If at any time you see an air bubble come out through the tube then either you didn't get the air out the first time or you've got an air leak.
Possible locations of an air leak is the bleeder screw or line fittings, or bad O-rings on the Slave Cylinder. If the problem is the latter, you may not notice fluid loss for quite some time as it will take awhile for it to drip out of the front of the bell housing (if it's internal).
If you do not see an air bubble come out through the tube then you have a defective or wrong Master Cylinder.
Finally, this may seem like a no brainer, but make sure your clutch pedal return spring hasn't become disconnected.
I'm gonna try how you said to bleed it. Iv been doing it how you would bleed breaks
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:47 PM   #11
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Me to so please let me know if this way works an I will do the same
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Me to so please let me know if this way works an I will do the same
Cool. I think I'm gonna give it a try tomarow if I get the chance
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:46 AM   #13
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JUst curious how you guys were trying to bleed the system. The procedure described by haven is how you bleed the clutch as well as brakes. You shouldnt have an issue unless, like he said, you have a leak in the system somewhere.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
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JUst curious how you guys were trying to bleed the system. The procedure described by haven is how you bleed the clutch as well as brakes. You shouldnt have an issue unless, like he said, you have a leak in the system somewhere.
I was blessing mine like how you would bleed breaks. Pump them up hold it to the floor then crack the bleeder screw. Then repeat
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:26 AM   #15
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Me to
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:15 AM   #16
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So let me know how this method works out for you. I'm gonna go try it in a few min when I get the chance
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:53 AM   #17
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Just bleed mine. I repeated the steps about 5 or 6 times until I have no bubbles in the line
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:09 PM   #18
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So u got no change in ur clutch ? It's raining here today so I'm gona do mine again on a sunny day
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:01 PM   #19
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I haven't drove it yet to find out. I tore all my carpet out and washed the inside of my jeep
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:07 PM   #20
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Well I guess my lines will have air in them to I need to get that small tubing to bleed mine the same way
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:31 AM   #21
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I drove my jeep today and it felt like the clutch got a little soft. Im gonna bleed it again when I get home and I'll probley have to do it a few times. I really hope this works!
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:36 AM   #22
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My question is u did see air bubbles in the line when u used the tubing method ?
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:39 AM   #23
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Yes I did. I saw big ones at first then I started to see really small ones then none at all. It was really helpful.
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:26 PM   #24
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It got soft again today on my way home. Bled it the same way again and then I drove farther then my normal and it didn't get very soft at all. So its looking good. I may have to bleed it 1 or 2 more times. So im hopeful you can get yours figured out as well.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:02 PM   #25
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U did when it was hot ? An u saw more air in the line again ?
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
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U did when it was hot ? An u saw more air in the line again ?
Hot meaning my motor being hot? Not really. I let it cool down a little bit before I did anything. And I saw a little more air in the line but wasn't to much
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #27
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One correct bleeding is all you should need, and the pedal shouldn't go soft again. You guys must have some leaks. Just curious, what brands did you all use and did you all disconnect or cut the black plastic strips on the slave cylinder?
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:54 AM   #28
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I got an AutoZone clutch kit an no I did not cut the retainer clip the instructions said not to .... The only thing I was sketchy was the o rings it made it sound like I should put two o rings on each line so I did that but I have never put more than one on any line ever ....
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:06 AM   #29
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Let me say this. Ive been a hydraulic mechanic for 15 years. Bleeding any hydraulic system should ALWAYS be done multiple times. However, It is in your best interest to inspect EVERY connection for leaks/seepage, or excessive corrosion. Oh, change your fluid on a regular basis.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:59 AM   #30
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If you dont remove thoes plastic strips how is the slave cylinder sapost to move? I removed mine. I checked all my connections. And I got my clutch kit from a company called clutch star. Its the same brand as the one that I removed. It was the exact same thing.

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