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Old 02-10-2011, 11:45 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uplifted View Post
Sounds good... Take it one step further though to avoid the unsighly eyebolts that will be sticking out of your top all the time..... Weld nuts to the metal plates instead and glue them up on the inside of the top.. Then when you want to remove the top you can just thread the eyebolts down into the plates and when not in use you can simply make threaded plugs to fill the holes to keep it water tight and not stick up like the eyebolts would.. Just a thought..
also a very good idea. another thing i had in mind was to find a ladder rack system off a grand cherokee and shorten and fit it to the hard top, this way I could use it for stuff and a lift point.

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Old 02-10-2011, 11:54 PM   #62
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Wait.... drill through your hard top? If that's the case I would think of something else....

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Old 02-10-2011, 11:55 PM   #63
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Talking

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Wait.... drill through your hard top? If that's the case I would think of something else....
Care to explain why not?
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:55 PM   #64
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Series of plungers and suction cups from the winch... I'm getting a feeling that I am not being helpful
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:00 AM   #65
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I was just thinking I have enough problems with leaks I wouldn't want to drill more holes... how about simplicity straps that come down (4straps from winch) one on each corner where hardtop meets door corner and then goes through and connects to the other two straps that would come through the top corners of the back window.... that is about as clear as mud
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:20 PM   #66
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Another thought...cruise control. Any one hook one up? Aftermarket or Chevy factory? Ideas?
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:28 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by billytheyj View Post
I was just thinking I have enough problems with leaks I wouldn't want to drill more holes... how about simplicity straps that come down (4straps from winch) one on each corner where hardtop meets door corner and then goes through and connects to the other two straps that would come through the top corners of the back window.... that is about as clear as mud
Yeah I would totally go with straps on the winch, not eyebolts in the top. I was thinking a rear strap you close in the window, the front either one strap threaded over the roll bars or two straps with hooks.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:40 PM   #68
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Cruise control?! That's sounds like a whole lot of work I would be interested in that if you can do it! Just sounds complicated.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:49 PM   #69
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i know aftermarket ones have been put into tj's. depends on how they are set up i suppose, dont have a lot of first hand interaction with it, but I would love it since i do a lot of highway driving
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:23 PM   #70
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ok after about 4 months of research on novak, reading threads here, crying a little bit (no homo) and btw still not buying a jeep because my car hasn't sold... I've finally come up with a solid and FINAL drive train setup. tell me what you think, and some input on lockers would be wonderful.

Engine: GM L33 Vortec 5.3 V8
Muncie SM465 4-Speed
T-Case: NP231 (Adapted obviously) and I'm planning to eventually put in the teralow 4:1 kit depending on funds
Axles: Full length Dana 44's with 3.73 gears. 33" tires

as far as the suspension goes, I would really like the SOA but lack welding abilities. So I'm going to either buy the RC 4" lift kit, or pay a buddy about the same to do the SOA according to Ibuildembig's thread.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:27 PM   #71
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And for those wondering why i chose that drivetrain, here are the numbers from the calculators on novak.

Crawl Ratio With TeraLow Kit: 98
Crawl Ratio witout Teralow Kit: 66 (Still capable)
Cruising RPM at 70MPH: 2658 (The L33 should be doing quite well in that range)
Cruising RPM at 60MPH: 2278
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:15 PM   #72
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Take a look at the tag on the passenger side of the diff cover, it should have 4L10 stamped into it where I have shown on this one.

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Old 09-13-2011, 03:30 PM   #73
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Take a look at the tag on the passenger side of the diff cover, it should have 4L10 stamped into it where I have shown on this one.
are you saying that some tcases came from the factory with the 4LO or that the teralow models will have that? i wasn't expecting to find out already built.
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:38 PM   #74
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are you saying that some tcases came from the factory with the 4LO or that the teralow models will have that? i wasn't expecting to find out already built.
Sorry, I should have quoted the post I was replying to. That's for the 8.8 rear axle.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:07 PM   #75
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ahhh that makes a little more sense. thanks, i'm still leaning towards building some strong dana 44's...i really just wanna go for that wide stance without having full blown 60's or something equal. not to mention the weight differential

i'm still not sure what is the best model to pull them from, or which locker (hence why i started that locker/diff thread)
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:43 AM   #76
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Why not find a 79 1/2 ton supercab ford truck? It will have a leaf sprung 44 front and a 9 inch rear....FYI 44 rears are weaker than a 8.8.
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:14 AM   #77
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^78/79 BRONCO'S have the same diff setup IIRC. I like the 9" i had in my bronco. Very bulletproof.
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:40 AM   #78
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But a supercab will be leaf sprung instead of coils and is almost a drop in for a YJ
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:15 PM   #79
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True!
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:37 PM   #80
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But a supercab will be leaf sprung instead of coils and is almost a drop in for a YJ
looked it up on car-part and the rear came up as a dana 60 full float, not that i would mind having something that strong but probably too big.

ill have to do a little digging to find the 9 inch

thanks man!

hate to sound dumb but would the 1/2 ton be considered the F-250. and does anyone have a part number for that axle?

and is there a 9 inch model that came with disc brakes?
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:02 PM   #81
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Look up a 1/2 ton supercab. They were the only 5 lug axled leaf sprung 44 fronts. There was a disc'd 9" but it was in a lincoln and alot narrower. You can use the disc brakes off a 8.8 with minor mods though.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:30 PM   #82
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So today or tomorrow i'm FINALLY going to check out an 88 YJ 5-Spd that hopefully is in decent condition. the pics look great, has some rust...but thats why i'm buying a welder. the guy isnt asking for much so if the frame is in good shape it'll be mine by the weekend.

here's the description:

88 Jeep YJ. 4.2 Lt straight 6 freshly rebuilt at 156,000...4 inch Rough Country lift, 2 inch shackles, New rear end gears and axles, 33in x 12.5 Trxus Mud Terrains including spare, ProComp soft 8 wheels, 8000lb Smittybilt winch on custom plate, Custom spare tire carrier, 2 new Best Top seats, new JVC cd player with mp3 port, Sony explode speakers in sound bar, tread plate rocker gaurds included( also has Smittybilt 6in pocket flares not shown here ).... this Jeep is not spotless, it is a toy and it will go where you want it. has a little rust. worst spot is shown. needs bumper put back on and a little TLC. could use an exhaust.



I'll order the bumpers next month but here's my final build list that will eventually replace the drivetrain:

L33 Engine
SM465
Novak Adaptor to adapt
NP231 w/teralow kit
SYE
Rear Ford 8.8 with this kit Baseline 4x4 YA WF88-31-KIT, Ford 8.8 Ultimate Axle Shaft kit 95-02 Ford Explorer, 4340 CHROME-MOLY, C-Clip Eliminator, 31 Spline, Axles Ford 8.8 Axle Shafts Axle Shaft Kits and an Eaton E-Locker
Front Axle I'll probably just upgrade the Dana 30 with chromoly shafts since this jeep won't see tooo much off road.
3.73 Gear ratio

I was planning on doing an SOA but since it comes with the RC lift i may as well leave it.

what do you guys think? i can't stop reading forums and looking stuff up haha i've been going thru jeep withdrawal for almost 2 years
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2004 Audi S4: 4.2 6-Spd. Piggies, Magnaflow cat back, JHM Intake Spacers, JHM SS, JHM Tune
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:55 PM   #83
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btw the guy has 3.08 gears in it now, anyone else running those?

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