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Old 10-30-2013, 02:18 PM   #1
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Dana 30 build

So I picked up another D30 yesterday so I can still have the jeep on the trail while I build the 8.8 and this D30 and get set up for SOA.

Im gonna be running 4.88s.The D30 currently geared 3.07. I believe I need a 3.73 and numerically higher carrier to run 4.88s?

Im planning on welding the tubes, making trusses on both and doing inner C gussets on the front. Im gonna stick some plate on the bottom of the 8.8 to get that big lip smoothed out. Spool out back and its looking like a full carrier locker of some sort up front.

Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Anything to beef up the d30 a little more would be great!

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Old 10-30-2013, 07:54 PM   #2
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When doing the SOA, use the shortest shoulder possible on the perches. This way, you are not adding height by using a tall perch. Along those same lines, you may wish to add some mild wheelbase by using perches & spring plates with 3 holes in them. This way, you can either add or subtract some wheelbase if you wish. If doing so - consider the drive shaft lengths as needed since you may need to address those as the height & wheelbase changes.

I decided to do an external sleeve (3" x .250 wall DOM) and truss on my old HPD30. I completely eliminated the vacuum disco housing at the same time by cutting it completely off and did a ubolt eliminator as well.

You may wish to upgrade the brakes while you are at it, especially if adding tall tires. I installed the very first 16" Vanco Big Brake Kit which increased my front braking power A LOT! I still ran 15" wheels by using the Mickey Thompson Classic II's which don't have a step to interfere with the Vanco 48MM dual piston calipers.

On the 8.8 I had a pro TIG weld the tubes to the housing. A good MIG or ARC welder will work fine too. I also welded closed the stock Ford axle breather hole & redrilled/tapped a new one on top of the axle tube once I knew the pinion angle change.




Before the truss:



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Old 10-30-2013, 07:56 PM   #3
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Likely the best looking d30 i have ever seen. Haha
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:20 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
When doing the SOA, use the shortest shoulder possible on the perches. This way, you are not adding height by using a tall perch. Along those same lines, you may wish to add some mild wheelbase by using perches & spring plates with 3 holes in them. This way, you can either add or subtract some wheelbase if you wish. If doing so - consider the drive shaft lengths as needed since you may need to address those as the height & wheelbase changes.

I decided to do an external sleeve (3" x .250 wall DOM) and truss on my old HPD30. I completely eliminated the vacuum disco housing at the same time by cutting it completely off and did a ubolt eliminator as well.

You may wish to upgrade the brakes while you are at it, especially if adding tall tires. I installed the very first 16" Vanco Big Brake Kit which increased my front braking power A LOT! I still ran 15" wheels by using the Mickey Thompson Classic II's which don't have a step to interfere with the Vanco 48MM dual piston calipers.

On the 8.8 I had a pro TIG weld the tubes to the housing. A good MIG or ARC welder will work fine too. I also welded closed the stock Ford axle breather hole & redrilled/tapped a new one on top of the axle tube once I knew the pinion angle change.




Before the truss:


Nice work Man! Thanks for sharing
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:52 PM   #5
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So Help me figure this out.. What does the tube do?
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:14 PM   #6
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It's part of the truss.

Starts like this:



Once I take my plasma to it:



Then test fit:



Cut and box the top edges:




More test fit:







Then weld 'er up.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:28 PM   #7
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Is that 3/16 or 1/4 inch plate you used there? Im likely to steal this idea from you...hahaha
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:48 AM   #8
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This one was 1/4" IIRC. I have made several since. Some were 1/4" some were 3/8".

Some were for SOA while others were for SUA.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:05 AM   #9
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Cool man, thanks. I have some 1/4 laying around so thats what mine will get...
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:14 AM   #10
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Seeing all this work going into a d30 makes me have to ask: Is it worth it?

I can't make up my mind on what axles I want to run. Shortening a hp ford 44 to run wagonneer shafts would be really cool, but also a lot of work. I don't want to go to a low pinion front. So my options it seems are 1) build what I have, or 2) shorten a ford 44, or 3) run a ford 44/9" combo at stock width.

I don't wanna derail this thread too much so I will just ask for the opinions of those who have chosen to invest in the d30. I have seen them last with 37's hanging off the sides, is that normal for a light footed wheeler? Do you wish you had started with a bigger diff in the beginning?


I don't see myself ever going bigger than a 37" tire max on this thing. Next stop is 4.88's & something between a 35-37. I am going to keep it low on this spring under lift as well.
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:06 AM   #11
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Ive been running 35x13.50 on a lunchbox locked stock D30. I dont jump it or anything but havent had any real problems other than a slightly bent outer C. I have a cable actuator so its kinda selectable...

Im building mine up cause I already have 2 of them and dont have money right now to narrow a D60 or 44 and I dont want to go full width. Im going SOA, 4.88s and 37" boggers here soon and then I can really say how the D30 holds up...lol
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:14 AM   #12
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The way I see it is its good fab experience and If it does hand grenade I have spare parts and can pull the locker put it back together and run it open til I can get a narrowed 60. My nephew gets all my hand me downs so when Im done with it he will have a D30 that at least looks tough...lol.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:03 PM   #13
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You guys arent much reassurance haha. I just see people doing chromo kits and gears and lockers and often times by the time they are done they could have almost paid for a nice g2 44.


Hmmm decisions decisions.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:29 PM   #14
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You guys arent much reassurance haha. I just see people doing chromo kits and gears and lockers and often times by the time they are done they could have almost paid for a nice g2 44.


Hmmm decisions decisions.
I think the difference is some of these guys are doing all or most of the work themselves, including the welding. I'm good at bolting things together, but I don't weld, and can't/won't try and set gears. For us less knowledgeable the G2 d44 or even G2 D60 aren't much more than paying someone to do your welding, set your gears, and buy and install heavier axles and a locker yourself. For me to have someone do my gears around here can be close to $1000 parts and labor, to add an ARB locker myself will be about 7-$800, buying better axles and doing myself may be another $200. So I'm at $1900-2000 doing my own D30, or pick up a G2 D44 with cromoly and ARB for $2400. I only wish I knew how to do it all.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:00 PM   #15
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I do most everything myself with the exception of the initial R&P gears.

My truss cost me a total of ~$20 in steel material and a couple hours time including stopping to have a beverage & tacos. This includes designing it, cardboard cutout, test fits, plasma time, cutting, grinding, welding blah blah blah.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:02 PM   #16
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Yep. Love DIY stuff. Been building different stuff and collecting tools and junk all my life... This will actually be my first R&P job. Thats one reason I got a spare D30 to build with the 8.8. I can take my time and get it right cause their just sitting in the shop. Its not a dd so if I do screw it up and it hand grenades its not a huge deal. Could be expensive but I wont learn any younger...

Im always surprised by the jobs everyone tells me to have a pro do and then when I dont listen to them and I do it anyway it was easy after all.Its usually very time consuming at first cause I get all OCD but it feels good to say "I did that"...

I guess that why I like my Jeep. I can say "I built this, this and that and I can drive through this and climb over that" lol
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:04 PM   #17
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I do all my own work as well, but I was talking about just parts prices. No way I would pay anyone to do the things I enjoy. Okay admittedly I had a machine shop do my short block for my stroker cuz I don't have 500 G's sitting around to buy all the equipment myself.

I dont know where guys get their chromo kits but I see them for like $800 in 4WDH, add an $800 ARB, $400 in gears/overhaul kits, then while you are in there you better do ball joints, wheel bearings, U-joints, all new seals... you see where I am going with this.

I saw a billy-bolt-on TJ today with Currie Rock Jock 60's and radius arms. Very nice rig. I just wonder if one wouldn't be ahead just buying a brand new built axle... Thinking in terms of money, not counting the satisfaction factor.

I think if I do go ahead and build the d30 I would have to do it mainly using second hand parts.
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:53 AM   #18
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Oh yeah, I hear ya for sure. Im a cheap bastard. Second hand is the only way to go. Hopefully I can find a used locker. The R&P I doubt I will find used.

The D30 I figure I will have around a grand into when I put it under the jeep. With new gears, new locker, perches and other little stuff. Thats a little much for a D30 but if its reliable in the end I will be happy. If I run across used gears or locker I'll snag them and save some dollars. I wont do molly shafts til I break at least one stock shaft and see how hard that was. Ball joints and stuff I wont do til it actually needs it. I get everything I can at a wrecking yard or used of some sort. I just got an extra TF999, a D35 with disc brake conversion and the D30 Im getting ready to build out of a YJ with 120,000 miles for 75 bucks. All I wanted was the D30.lol.

My 8.8 will be a lot more bang for the buck. I got the whole differential with rotors and calipers for 75 bucks. Got a full spool for 70 bucks. Perches will be like 40 and maybe 20 to have the rotors turned. Some wire and gas for the MIG, Couple cans of spray paint. Maybe 250 bucks in the end and some time. All the steel going into the trusses and gussets was free from my uncle.

In the end I will have a set of semi built, locked Front and rear axles for around 1300 bucks. So If I had 2400 in just my bolt on front axle budget, well now I have 1100 from that and then whatever a bolt on rear would cost to put toward my new boggers, SYE, CV shaft... and just hope my wrecking yard D30 holds up to them.lol I got a trailer just so I could run a junk yard build and experiment with it. It might end up tough though. We will see soon enough I guess.
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:02 AM   #19
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:30 AM   #20
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Id snag that sucker if it looked fair in person.The lockers worth that and I love spare parts...lol I have another thread in the general discussion called D30 experience and a couple guys have 37s on D30s that are reliable...
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:46 AM   #21
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I am talking with the guy now. Probably gonna end up picking it up. I hope he wants to trade for some of my junk cuz I have too much stuff haha and I don't like spending my money.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:57 AM   #22
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Dammit all I am reading is bad things about the ECTED diffs. I might have to pass on this one.
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:49 PM   #23
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Whats ECTED? Is that the electric locker? I submerge my junk a LOT and Ive always been told electricity and water dont mix...lol
The right deal will come along, try to be patient.

I gave 75 bucks for a carpet stretcher, Traded the carpet stretcher for a scoped 7 mag and traded the 7 mag for the tranny and axles I listed earlier.

I would have kept the 7 mag but it just wasnt fun to shoot. Kicked like a mule and I hunt with a 270 so I really didnt need it. So I kept the Leupold scope for my 270 and traded the rifle. Hahaha . Deals are out there you just have to find them.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:22 AM   #24
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Whats ECTED? Is that the electric locker? I submerge my junk a LOT and Ive always been told electricity and water dont mix...lol
The right deal will come along, try to be patient.

I gave 75 bucks for a carpet stretcher, Traded the carpet stretcher for a scoped 7 mag and traded the 7 mag for the tranny and axles I listed earlier.

I would have kept the 7 mag but it just wasnt fun to shoot. Kicked like a mule and I hunt with a 270 so I really didnt need it. So I kept the Leupold scope for my 270 and traded the rifle. Hahaha . Deals are out there you just have to find them.
Electric locker dont get ruined in oil. And if you get water in your diff thats not going to matter. I run Eton Elect lockers front and rear for over 3 years. When you turn them on the power is sent to an electric magnet that pulls pins in to place to lock the diff. JK Rubicon stock lockers work the same way.
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Old 11-02-2013, 04:51 AM   #25
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Oh I wasnt knocking them, That was my attempt at a funny...lol. Thanks for the info though, I wondered how they worked. Arent some of them like a limited slip that activates with electricity too?
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Old 11-02-2013, 05:12 AM   #26
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Oh I wasnt knocking them, That was my attempt at a funny...lol. Thanks for the info though, I wondered how they worked. Arent some of them like a limited slip that activates with electricity too?
Aurburn ELECT locker are a LSD, with electric lock. They work just like a limited slip with a clutch pack. When you flip the switch the magnet pull the clutch back together. If the clutch pack is wore out that will cause the locker not to fully lock.
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Old 11-02-2013, 11:53 AM   #27
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^^ Which is exactly why I am not gonna jump on that guys axle. If it had a better locker I probably would.

I am very adept at finding good deals on what I want, heck I am getting $500 of head work in exchange for doing a guys glow plugs in his 7.3 powerstroke which cost me $73.
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Old 11-02-2013, 01:35 PM   #28
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If you do a search on the Ected you will find that the maker does not consider it a hard use locker. That doesn't mean some will never have trouble, but if the maker is concerned, so would I be. If you want a selectable go ARB or OX, JMHO. If you want full time, Detroit
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Old 11-02-2013, 11:37 PM   #29
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^^

I am very adept at finding good deals on what I want, heck I am getting $500 of head work in exchange for doing a guys glow plugs in his 7.3 powerstroke which cost me $73.
Thats what Im talking about!^^^^

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