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Old 03-02-2013, 10:43 PM   #1
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My 350 build

So prior to this point I pulled the 2.5 and ground off the stock motor mounts. No pics because its been done time and time again on here. So I've been getting parts and finally the weather is co-operating. I started this afternoon and didn't get very far.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:51 PM   #2
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Hopefully tomorrow I can figure out the exact position of the engine and have the motor mounts welded in.

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Old 03-02-2013, 11:05 PM   #3
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looking forward to seeing your progress, whats your drivetrain out of?
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:10 PM   #4
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The motor is a Vortec 350 from a 96 Tahoe and instead of the 4l60e I'm going with 700r4 mated to Jeep transfer case. No computer. Edelbrock intake and Edelbrock carb(not installed yet).
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:20 AM   #5
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Good choices, fabing up your own mounts or did you buy some?
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:24 AM   #6
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I've gotten everything so far from Advanced Adapters. Motor mounts, transfer case adapter and crossmember adapter. Thinking I should have passed on the crossmember adapter. We'll see tomorrow if its gonna pan out.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:59 PM   #7
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I am doing a similar swap putting a 400 SBC in my 92 except I am using the NV3550 manual transmission. I got my bell housing to transmission adapter from Novak but have not decided on the transfer case mount yet.

In my case I have the tub off the frame to do some repairs but I believe I need to put the tub back on the frame to locate the engine.

What are you planning to do for radiator/cooling with your set up?
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:59 PM   #8
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Aluminum radiator with transmission cooler from Advanced with electric fan.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:01 PM   #9
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Here are some more pics.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:34 PM   #10
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you rebuild the motor, or straight pull and bolt in?
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:10 PM   #11
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looking good, are you using the tahoe accesories and brakets?
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:42 AM   #12
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Looks good. I've lost some steam on my own 350 build (still going to do this coming winter, just too busy doing other things to work on it). Your build is pushing me to get mine done!
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:18 AM   #13
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Is there any transmission that should/shouldn't be used for a 350 swap?
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:30 AM   #14
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I didn't rebuild the motor since this was just a "see if I can do project". If I was to do another I would certainly rebuild motor. I'm actually gonna try and use all the Tahoe accessories that I can. I hear you on the putting it off. I did that til I finally had ordered most of the parts to do it as quickly as possible. Gonna try and get fuel to carb this weekend and go through and try to figure out electrical.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:33 AM   #15
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Depends on what you want to do. You can use the 4L60e if you use the electronics from donor vehicle or order harness. I also understand you can use 350, 400 or what I used the 700r4.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:06 PM   #16
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Engine location looks pretty good. What did you find was the tightest point that determined your location?
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:28 PM   #17
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The tightest part is gonna be on the left side, especially if u plan on using GM power steering pump. Also make sure u take into consideration your distributor by firewall and your radiator up front. I could actually use the stock exhaust from Tahoe but think ill go with headers.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:42 PM   #18
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I am planning on going with headers as well. Front runner right now is the Novak set that are block huggers. As as much as I would like to go with ceramic coating the price hit from Novak is pretty steep so I may just get the raw parts and paint them.

Does the GM power steering pump want to run into the steering shaft? Seems like it should have a fair amount of room but I have not gotten that far yet.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:06 PM   #19
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It's a little snug but will work.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:58 AM   #20
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any updates on your build Texas?
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:52 PM   #21
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Been kinda busy hadn't put much time into Jeep. I did have some time last couple days. I just correct radiator in today. The first one had the in and out on the opposite sides. I have about 1/4" between fan housing and water pump pulley. I have a question for y'all. Which way is it better to run electric fan? Pusher or puller? If I can use it as a pusher that would give me about 3 1/2 inches between radiator and water pump. Any way here are some more pictures.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:54 PM   #22
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Lookin good tex, I would think a pusher fan would work fine, Ive read of other guys using them. might get clogged with mud a lil easier. But with the fan being that close to the motor I myself would feel better using pusher. Guys with more experience than me may have different oppinion though. Are you gonna use a temp prop or just a simple on off switch?
What'd you decide to do on exhaust, stick to the manifolds or go with headers? while planning my swap Im considering a set of old Ramhorn manifolds, center exit then cross over under oil pan, to join with pass. side.
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:06 AM   #23
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Thanks for posting this up Texas. I've got a LT1 out of a Caprise wagon sitting on a stand waiting for the rest of the parts to do a swap into my 90 YJ as well. I have the 4L60E from the wagon too, but it won't mate up to a Xfer case as it's for a car. I was thinking of getting a donor transmission and xfer case from a K5 or Z71 but am open to other suggestions. What axles are you running since there's NO way the D30/D35 can handle the power increase?
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:14 AM   #24
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Looking great Tex ! You will love it when its done. I took a 258 I6 out of my CJ7 and put in a freshly rebuilt 304 years ago, they were then rated at like 120 hp stock. But after a .030 bore, milled the heads down and squared the block by having it decked. Brought up the compression a little and added a good set of valve springs and timing chain set. It brought that Jeep to life big time, and cruising the highway is so easy with a V8. The mileage was good too, due to putting all that torque in a 2900lb. Jeep with 33's on it. That Edelbrock carb will get you some great mileage. Have a had a few of them over the years. and the Edelbrocks work pretty good performance wise and good off road too. Much better than a Holley on inclines. If you need any small block parts in the future, there is a place out of Bristol, TN. called White Performance, they sell on Ebay as well. You can get some really good deals on accessories, and all internal engine components. I purchased most all of my parts for the stroker from them. just for an example, I got new aluminum pulleys( Crank and Water Pump) for it for $45.00. Polished dual plain Air Gap intake for $159 that will fit both the new and late model heads.

I am still up in the air about motor choices for my YJ. Mine has the 4.0 HO in it with the AX15. Thinking about rebuilding the 4.0, to keep the fuel injection. But, I have a brand new built 389 inch stroker motor on the stand, ready to go. Only problem is, with this stroker motor, bigger axles are a must. It will probably be pushing at least 450 ft. lbs torque if not more. It would make hamburger meat out of that Dana 35. Decisions, Decisions !!

Started with this prepped block, bored, cleaned, new cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs, clearanced for the stroker crankshaft, etc.



Then got to this point



Then ended up with this when I was done.

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Old 04-20-2013, 11:49 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasDemon84 View Post
Depends on what you want to do. You can use the 4L60e if you use the electronics from donor vehicle or order harness. I also understand you can use 350, 400 or what I used the 700r4.
The 700r4 would be the best choice anyway for dual purpose, street and off road use. They have a low first gear, and of course the .75:1 ratio overdrive for the highway. You can put Corvette servos in it, and it will shift like a beast under hard acceleration.

I use to own a 89 S10 2wd with a 355 sbc and 700r4, w/3.42:1 gear and about 27-28 inch tires, got around 25mpg on the interstate with 9.5:1 compression, RV cam, double roller timing set, torker intake and 600 Edelbrock. Drove it four hours to Dayton, Ohio getting the 25mpg, took it to the drag strip in Dayton, ran a 13 flat 1/4 mile, smokin the tires thru first and second, but put the supercharged Ford Lightning truck in the other lane in my rear view mirror. It twas' a good day !! LOL
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:59 AM   #26
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Basically, a 700r4, is a 350 turbo with overdrive, the 4L6OE is just an electronic version of the 700r4. The 4L8OE is an electronic 400 turbo with overdrive. The only issue with the electronic trans. is you have to run a TPS switch for it to shift into overdrive. Since you went with a carb set up instead of fuel injection, the 700r4 was definitely the best option.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:51 AM   #27
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Ahh man, I wish you would have kept the TBI! I could have helped you out with getting it set up. I just got mine running yesterday!

Looks good though. However, you should check into the MORE motor mounts. They are more recommended than the AA ones. People have said the AA ones tear out or wear out easily and have switched to the MORE ones.

If I get time and some more $ coming in, I plan to jack up my engine and cut out the ones the original owner welded in and replace mine with the MORE's.

Looks good though man Keep it coming!!

Oh hey- where did you get that radiator? I need one of those!
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:28 AM   #28
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Thanks guys. Zombie I'm thinking of going with an 8.8 from a Ford Explorer for the rear differential. Kentucky, that is one sweet looking engine. I still have the 4L60e should I decide to swap at a later date. Getting close to firing it up. Doing some work on it today. Will post pics later.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:30 AM   #29
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Indiro, I got the radiator on EBay from Patriot Cooling. If I remember right it's C8101. Radiator and fan were $275 shipped.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:50 AM   #30
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I am not finding that PN in their online store. Do you have the measurements or can you double check it?

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