Took some pics of things done. Hooked up linkage and throttle. Connected wiring harnesses, some vacuum lines, headlights put in radiator installed. And finally new seat covers, also tires came in wheels on back order.
Ended up finding a thread that dealt with the same issue of converting two YJs.
87-91 are manual speedo and the gauges do not match the 92-95 yjs.
So I found a tub wire harness from a 91 to convert the 94 body to. I have also started looking into changing the gauges including the speedometer and tach.
The build of my 94 officially started today. I picked up an extremely clean frame to replace my rotted and cracked frame. I will be re-using all body panels, the tub, 4.0, ax15, and np231. I will be swapping in an 8.8 rear with 4.10s. The front will be a stock 30 with 4.10s. Both axles will be locked...just need to decide which lockers. I will build an inboard air system using a stock a/c compressor. The suspension will be soa with stock rear leaf packs with a full length add a leaf in all packs. I will be using boomerang shackles. The body will be "freshened up" with some mild painting. Luckily, the interior is in excellent condition. The 231 will be treated to an sye and cv driveshaft. The front will also receive a cv driveshaft and a posi-lok. A winch bumper, winch, and rear tire carrier will round it out. The body will be mounted with prothane 1" poly mounts. Depending on the final ride height, 35s are a definite with a chance for 37s. This sounds ambitious...but... It will be fun. I will post tear down pics and build up picks. This will be an informative build thread with plenty of info. Post any questions and I will answer them. This will be my second full yj build. My first was when I was 21. Let's see if at 36, I can do a great build. I will also post the total expense from start to finish. Here is where I am now:
94 yj. $2500
Free with frame: rough country extended brake lines
Rough country track bar bracket
2 rear leaf packs
New motor and tranny mounts
New front spring plates
Frame full painted and bed lined
Pitman arm $60
Prothane body mounts $140
Shackles with bushings $60
Steering box brace $65
Full hard brake line kit $100
Front spring perches $50
Total at $3615
The 8.8 will be $100
Dana 30 will be $150
I am gonna try my best to keep it all under $7500.
Wheels and tires may break that goal.
Here is the rot/hole that was covered by a previous owner with sheet metal and undercoating. I also found a hole under the passenger's side rear bump stop. I had already welded and plated a crack on the passenger's side behind the sway bar bracket.
Yesterday, myself and my 4 year old son removed the front clip. It took about 2 hours with labeling all electrical connections. Not too bad. This week I plan to remove the front and rear axles. I plan to barter the axles, wheels and tires, and some other small parts to get a 4.10 front end, gas tank skid plate, and 2 more rear leaf packs.
Not too much work done today. The front end is up on jack stands. The old shocks needed cut off. Front tires/wheels removed. All bolts have been sprayed with pb blaster. Hopefully tomorrow after work I can pull the front axle. If I can atleast get the steering linkage, sway bat, and track bar off I will be happy. The rear end will hopefully be much easier. I need to get some cinder blocks for better support. The jack stands are making me a little nervous. The blocks will have a better base to support the weight.
My fears have been confirmed! Every bolt attaching the front axle is seized. PB blaster was no match. I had to cut out the front sway bar. The drag link bolt is seized. The shocks were seized. The sawzall and grinder got a nice work out. I am letting the shackle bolts sit over night. Once I get the drag link off, I will pull the shackle bolts and remove the front axle. I am just gonna cut the ubolts. Hopefully I can get it done tomorrow. Hopefully the rear will be easier. I want them both out by Saturday. Wish me luck!
I removed the front axle last night. After cleaning off the diff tag, I determined my 94 came with 3.7 gears. I am glad I already lined up a stock front axle with 4.10s. A prior owner tightened the leaf spring bolts so tight that the springs could not move. That is why every main leaf is bent. I could not remove the main eye spring bolt from the frame. The springs did not even move after the shackle bolts were removed. Tonight, I will reposition the cinder blocks and tackle the rear axle. I can't wait until I can slide the new frame under and start putting this thing together.
I removed the rear end tonight. Of course the track bar bolt was seized in the axle mount. Nothing my sawzall couldn't handle. I am not gonna use the rear track bar...plus...it is now in 2 pieces. The passenger's side rear main leaf turned out the be broken at the main eye frame mount. I am surprised it stayed in place. This wasn't too bad. About 1 1/2 hours start to finish. Considering the e-brake cables were shot, I just cut them. You don't realize how light weight the Dana 35 is until you pick it up and carry it out of the garage. Haha! See you later.
It's coming along. I was very surprised at the 3.07 gears. I thought it would have 3.55s. Oh well...I wasn't gonna keep the axles either way. Luckily the tub and front clip are in great shape. Putting it all back together will be the fun part...seeing it all come together. Planning is the key. I am gonna cut the wraps off the main leafs of my old spring packs and add them to stock rear packs. I have not found a full length add a leaf that I like. When I built my 91, the full length add a leaf help tremendously with axle wrap. I have been accumulating the necessary parts to have the suspension and drivetrain complete before I worry about painting the tub.
More parts shopping today. I got 2 more rear leaf packs, a used grill with no rust, a used transfer case cross member, a used gas tank skid, and a 4.10 front end. The front axle has new ball joints and the bigger u joints. My boomerang shacks came in as well. Time to weld the new perches to the axle and paint it. It looks like grinding off the old perches will be a bitch. We will see.
I stripped my old front axle down. I nice surprise was relatively new hub units. I also kept the axle shafts as spares. There is one bad u-joint. But it will be ok for a spare in case of an emergency. I also kept the shift fork for the cad and the collar. The rotors are fine but I will replace the calipers and pads. Cheap insurance in my book. I cut the stock main leafs. They will work as good full length add-a-leafs. I just need to get new center pins and open the stock spring clamps to get them in. I need to get the engine and tranny out. Next Friday I plan on going to the local u-pull-it to get the 8.8...assuming they have one with 4.10s. I am Aldo gonna grab some xj front cv driveshafts to use. Hopefully I can find one with a 231 to grab the front yoke. I did this swap about 15 years ago and ran a cv front drive shaft. If they don't have one, I guess I will drop $50 and order one on line. Once the old frame is out, I will start putting the drive train together. Updated pics will be posted on Monday. Damn IPhone won't let me upload pics and my computer crashed.
Front axle is done. New perches are welded on and it has all been painted. I got the steering box out but the nut to the pitman arm won't budge. I guess a trip to a shop with a much stronger impact gun is in order. I removed most of the underhood wiring harness. I tried to remove the body mount bolts. I broke 5 of 10. Awesome!!!! I guess I will be curing into the floor to remove the rest. I love rust. If all goes according to plan, the tub will be off on Friday so I can get the new frame under it. Of course I will need to coat the entire underside of the tub with bed liner after I clean it. The front suspension is almost ready to install. The rear as well.
I have sanded and cleaned the cross member and gas tank skid. Both of them have been painted. I used the rustoleum rust converter spray primer and went "old school" rustoleum oil paint from a can. It is a new formula, I guess, that is extremely thick. I brushed it on wish a .99 brush. It is like painting with molasses. It covered amazingly well and dried rock hard. I will see how it holds up. But at 9.99 a quart, it is much more affordable than POR15. Plus, if it does rust at some point, it maybe years down the road and touch up should be a breeze.
Tonight I modified stock rear leaf packs by adding the old main leaf from my original leaf springs. I cut the eyes off to make full length add a leafs. I also got the stock rubber bushings removed from all springs. The main eye bushings were a pain in the ass...but the sleeves, bushings, and pressed in metal tubes are all out. The leafs were painted with rustoleum rust converter primer and then topcoated. The top coat can dry overnight so I can turn the springs over tomorrow and paint the other side. I put in all new center pins and flipped them for the soa. Tomorrow I will finish painting the skid, leafs, and gas tank skid plate.
Hopefully all of this prep work will make assembly of the suspension and drive train very easy. I need to order the jb conversions super short sye. It looks like the best out there. I still need to get to the u pull it to grab some driveshafts and an 8.8. Maybe Saturday if the weather cooperates.